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How do you move a 1000+ lb, 6' tall Tool Box - Any tips??

Davefr

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I'm looking for a KRL1022/KRL1201 and found one that might be avail. It's out of town.

What are the best practices/tips/techniques in moving these 1000 lb monsters?

Should I rent a lift gate cargo truck? Will a cargo trailer and ramp be enough for two men? (the 6' height concerns me)

Is it critical to seperate chest from roll cab during transit or just make sure they're securely attached? Should the chest's drawers be removed to reduce weight during transit?

Other then some cargo straps, moving blankets and a come-a-long, are there any other things to be aware of.

P.S. It's a Dale Earnhardt KRL1022/1201 combo. I don't care about all the DE graphics but it does look mint. Seller is firm at $4500. I'm hoping there's a little wiggle room for cash.

TIA
 
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Danglerb

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P.S. It's a Dale Earnhardt KRL1022/1201 combo. I don't care about all the DE graphics but it does look mint. Seller is firm at $4500. I'm hoping there's a little wiggle room for cash.

TIA

Unless its full of truck brand tools, seems a bit on the pricey side to me.

As for moving, spend the bucks for a lift gate truck and make SURE all the drawers are secure.
 

Mickey O

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Don't know what type of vehicle you have but I'd use a trailer (low to ground, preferably a tilt bed) pulled by something that maybe you could put the top half in. One piece of advice I can give you is do not use the handles as tie down spots, they can rip right off, wedge it and block it in with wood and strap the entire box.
 

roverhybrids

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I used a car trailer with an ATV ramp with plywood over it to move mine.
Two guys were needed to be safe.
That said with the top chest you may want more help and a stronger ramp/more layers of ply as I use one layer of 7/16.

Strapping down is another issue as flapping straps with leave marks on the box(es).
 
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Davefr

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Unless its full of truck brand tools, seems a bit on the pricey side to me.

Thanks for all the ideas. It does seem a little pricey but it's hard to find a 1022/1201 or similar combo. I see roll cabs on CL for around 1500-2500 but then I'm faced with buying a new chest from Snap On for $5k+ since they hardly ever show up on CL. I definately want chest/roll cab combo.

Anyone have an opinion of special edition tool box's. (Dale Earnhardt, Harley, Football teams, etc). Does is raise or reduce value or have no effect?

P.S. I'm in Portland if anyone has one for sale. I'd really like KR1000/1201 since it's has the 15 drawer cab.
 

Scooterfish

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Low to the ground trailer,ramp and maybe a come-along ratchet. If you move top on the bottom strap them together so top does not bounce off. If your not big on the DE box there may be better deals out there.
 

p1mlb03

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Tidewater, Va
I'm looking for a KRL1022/KRL1201 and found one that might be avail. It's out of town.

What are the best practices/tips/techniques in moving these 1000 lb monsters?

Should I rent a lift gate cargo truck? Will a cargo trailer and ramp be enough for two men? (the 6' height concerns me)

Is it critical to seperate chest from roll cab during transit or just make sure they're securely attached? Should the chest's drawers be removed to reduce weight during transit?

Other then some cargo straps, moving blankets and a come-a-long, are there any other things to be aware of.

P.S. It's a Dale Earnhardt KRL1022/1201 combo. I don't care about all the DE graphics but it does look mint. Seller is firm at $4500. I'm hoping there's a little wiggle room for cash.

TIA

I just moved a Macsimizer 400 miles. I rented the 5x9 uhaul trailer with ramp gate. ($30) I took some 2x4 and made a U shape, about 3 ft across the bottom of the U and about 18 or 24" on the uprights. Then braced it across the corners to give it strength. I placed the open end to the front of the trailer on the floor to block the box from moving to the front. I did this for three reasons, one to distribute the weight on the trailer, two, to eliminate any chance that the box would rub on the trailer and 3 to have something to secure the box against. I wrapped the entire box in bubblewrap and secured that with plenty wraps of tape. Rolled the box up into the trailer, handle side to the rear, and used ratchet straps wrapped around each caster and pulled down to the corner hold down in the trailer. I used my motorcycle nylon loops around each side of the handle (to protect the handle) and attached two more straps, one to each rear corner for a little insurance to keep the box from going forward should I have to panic stop. I did not put alot of pressure on the handle straps, just good and snug. Then I used two of the rubber garage mats that fit together like a puzzle on the top of the box (Box was bubble wrapped on top too) and ran a large (semi truck size) ratchet strap over the mats and the whole rig and connected to the rails of the trailer. Like I mentioned, I moved it 400 miles with no issues. The box did not move at all and the trailer did not sway because it was loaded correctly, not tongue heavy. Worked great for me. Good luck
 

fatfillup

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If the boxes are bolted together, I'd leave them that way. I use my pick up with a lift gate to move and deliver boxes. I always use a 2" ratchet strap and pull the box to the front of the bed. I use foam to protect the box at the front of the bed and a strip of cardboard or foam where the strap meets the box. I'd leave the drawers in the box during transport because its the easiest way to keep them from being scratched. If you need to remove them for loading, just reinstall for the ride. I always lock the drawers and then test each one to make sure it doesn't open.

A trailer and a ramp is also a good choice. The biggest thing is to secure the box up against something to insure it doesn't move.

If the boxes are not bolted together, seperate them for the move. I did't one time and while i made it, it was a nervous ride.

As far as the price, that is about what they bring. You are not going to get a you ****, but they don't come up very often. Check the box out thoroughly. Test each drawer, look at the box in the daylight. If it was in a body shop, walk away, the body dust is rough on boxes. At that price the box should be MINT, otherwise offer less and stick to it. People are not beating a path to his door. Good luck
 

chad s

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When I bought my KRL1003 found on CL, I hired a roll back. It ran me around $200 for a 40 mile trip, but it was worth it. No damaged backs, no damaged too box. I got a great deal on the box, and the extra $200 was well worth it.
 

Lookin4'67Galaxieconv

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I`m not big on the special edition boxes and think they might be harder to sell.

That's my feeling too. My impression of what the same box would be worth if it was painted different colors, special editions, etc, is what looks most pleasing? Would I enjoy looking at the box...or would I have to put up with looking at it?

It's hard to want to buy a box for a lot of money that you're not crazy about.
 
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Davefr

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Dave,

Are you looking at this one in Keizer?

http://salem.craigslist.org/tls/1592490455.html

I'll bet he's had that box out there for about 1 1/2 - 2 years, its been out there forever. I'd negotiate with him some more.

I could be wrong, but the description and the box look about the same. :beer:


That's exactly the one I was considering!!

He's going on 2 years and still firm on price??

Thanks for the background. Do you have any other leads on Portland area combo boxes??

Thanks!!
 

Skyline

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I just moved a Macsimizer 400 miles. I rented the 5x9 uhaul trailer with ramp gate. ($30) I took some 2x4 and made a U shape, about 3 ft across the bottom of the U and about 18 or 24" on the uprights. Then braced it across the corners to give it strength. I placed the open end to the front of the trailer on the floor to block the box from moving to the front. I did this for three reasons, one to distribute the weight on the trailer, two, to eliminate any chance that the box would rub on the trailer and 3 to have something to secure the box against. I wrapped the entire box in bubblewrap and secured that with plenty wraps of tape. Rolled the box up into the trailer, handle side to the rear, and used ratchet straps wrapped around each caster and pulled down to the corner hold down in the trailer. I used my motorcycle nylon loops around each side of the handle (to protect the handle) and attached two more straps, one to each rear corner for a little insurance to keep the box from going forward should I have to panic stop. I did not put alot of pressure on the handle straps, just good and snug. Then I used two of the rubber garage mats that fit together like a puzzle on the top of the box (Box was bubble wrapped on top too) and ran a large (semi truck size) ratchet strap over the mats and the whole rig and connected to the rails of the trailer. Like I mentioned, I moved it 400 miles with no issues. The box did not move at all and the trailer did not sway because it was loaded correctly, not tongue heavy. Worked great for me. Good luck
I've also used those 5X9 U-Haul ramp trailers many times to move boxes. But I've never found the need for making any sort of wood contraption. I use a 1" thick rubber pad between the box and the front of the trailer. It's actually a big Snap-on kneeling mat. Then I just use a lot of ratchet straps to hold the box securely down and pull it tightly to the front of the trailer. By the time I'm done, it's probably about a dozen ratchet straps, including a few 2" ones that pull the box forward. Tounge weight is acceptable. Usually, I will wrap the box with moving blankets to prevent any of the straps from chafing the box. If not bolted together, several straps to hold top and bottom together.

If you do not have 3-4 guys to help you load, you may want a come-along and long tow ******** hand to winch it up into the trailer. I've also used a floor jack under the trailer hitch to lift the front of the trailer to make an easier transition up the ramp. This makes unloading very easy as well.

You can not move one of these boxes in one of these trailers if it is full; that would put you over the weight limit of the trailer. But they are tailor made for moving a toolbox as long as you are under 1,500 lbs.

But like others have said, $4,500 for a DE box includes a $1,500 premium for the design. If you're a big fan, go for it. Otherwise you will find one much less expensive that's not a special edition.
 

Tazzman

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Oceanside CA.
Hire a flatbed tow truck. I am sure they can make a good deal if asked, It will be fill time for them.
They move them all the time "full of tools"
 

hammergodthor

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I could be wrong about that box, just ask my wife I'm wrong all the time! :bounce:
If its the same box, he started out at $8,000 IIRC, almost 2 years ago. The pictures look similar, but not the same. The writeup is almost identical, but less wordy. Seems like there can't be that many of those boxes out here? :headscrat

Right now is pretty thin for top and bottom, but really strong for bottom only in our area.

All the boxes I know about are the current craigslist offerings.
 

vdubnluvn

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Feb 9, 2010
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winston salem nc
guess thats why my guy is so expensive,

he got rid of the "bread truck" and has the big dog freightliner now.

his little flap that keeps the box from rolling off the lift is jacked up though. cheap fu**er wont fix it, just uses a harbor freight hammer to keep beating it into submission.
 

crewchief888

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Davefr;773646 Anyone have an opinion of special edition tool box's. (Dale Earnhardt said:
i have a SO/HD 90th aniversary set. limited editions should be limited, these boxes werent, SO made 7500 (7800?) set of these things :wtf:
they pop up on ebay once ina while with $1000 reserve and never sell.
i have a (color) matching centersection for mine,
total investment of $4000
i'll keep em before i "give" them away

i moved all my tools and boxes 1200 miles in a 17ft moving truck.
used double layer of heavy cardboard all around the boxes, strapped roller cabs to the rails in the truck,all top boxes on the floor on the same cardboard and had my harley tied down between the rows of boxes.
nothing moved or was damaged during the trip :thumbup:

:beer:
 

Skyline

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i have a SO/HD 90th aniversary set. limited editions should be limited, these boxes werent, SO made 7500 (7800?) set of these things :wtf:
they pop up on ebay once ina while with $1000 reserve and never sell.
i have a (color) matching centersection for mine,
total investment of $4000
i'll keep em before i "give" them away

i moved all my tools and boxes 1200 miles in a 17ft moving truck.
used double layer of heavy cardboard all around the boxes, strapped roller cabs to the rails in the truck,all top boxes on the floor on the same cardboard and had my harley tied down between the rows of boxes.
nothing moved or was damaged during the trip :thumbup:

:beer:

If you rent a truck, just don't use one of those aluminum ramps. It will be a very expensive mistake when it folds in half.

From what I've seen, the highest prices for the specialty boxes are for the Belair, but the Harley and Dale boxes do pretty well also. The anniversary boxes that are dark green with gold trim seem to do the worst. But all the rest seem to do worse that non-special edition boxes.
 

crewchief888

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If you rent a truck, just don't use one of those aluminum ramps. It will be a very expensive mistake when it folds in half.

From what I've seen, the highest prices for the specialty boxes are for the Belair, but the Harley and Dale boxes do pretty well also. The anniversary boxes that are dark green with gold trim seem to do the worst. But all the rest seem to do worse that non-special edition boxes.

i rolled my loaded roller cabs down the truck ramp with no problems,
but they weren't on the ramp very long :lol_hitti

back in the day before boxes were made in mutiple colors, the 90th anv boxes were truly special, cranberry boxes, springer softail painted drop front on th top box, and polish aluminum trim. :thumbup:

:beer:
 

Skyline

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i rolled my loaded roller cabs down the truck ramp with no problems,
but they weren't on the ramp very long :lol_hitti

back in the day before boxes were made in mutiple colors, the 90th anv boxes were truly special, cranberry boxes, springer softail painted drop front on th top box, and polish aluminum trim. :thumbup:

:beer:

You got lucky with that ramp. They are definately not rated for that much weight. If I recall I think the rating is only 400lbs.
 

Aberdale

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Ohio
I bought a 80" Macsimizer triple bay a couple years ago and had the same moving dilemma. I already had a truck and flatbed trailer. I ended up renting a skid steer loader with pallet forks. I used a pallet, slipped it underneath the box between the wheels, drove the skid steer through the pallet and strapped the box to the pallet fork mast with movers blankets as cushions to protect the paint. I drove the skid steer onto the trailer, chained it down, and left the box strapped to the pallet fork mast. It worked like a charm, and unloading was just as easy, drive off, set it down in the shop. Box didn't get a scratch.

Dale
 
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