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Replacing Pole Barn Siding / Dressier Options

Jayhawk_Aviator

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Joined
Jun 2, 2015
Messages
123
Have a 40x50 ship. I've spent a lot of time and money on the inside making it just right, but the exterior is a little tired. The building is ~20 years, and the metal is starting to show its age (I didn't build it). Several tears in the side form the tractor, few spots were it leaks a small amount, etc.

Has anyone reskinned it and how hard of a job is that? Looks like material cost wouldn't be that bad, and I think I could do it one side at a time. I'd also like to improve the aesthetics. I see some with two tone wainscotting (anyone have any pics on how that is done?). Also, is there a way to do a stone veneer on the bottom or something like that? If you have reskinned it, are you able to do it with the girts still intact?

Another complication is the bottom two feet have spray foam, so I suspect that will be harder to remove that portion of the panel. Also, 3 sides are attached with nails / washers :mad:, so that is going to make it even more fun.
 
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fourbyford

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Aug 3, 2017
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913
Location
North Idaho... almost Canada!
I haven't "re-skinned" per se but, last summer, needed to make some mods that required removing the siding from about half of one long wall... easy peasy... just remove the screws and the siding comes right off... you wont disturb the girts. You may have an issue removing the siding where the spray foam is but the good news is that you probably dont need to "save" the old siding for anything (other than recycling... or craigslist) so remove the fasteners and get a little cowboy with it... you'll get it. I find a flat prybar to be useful in many jobs... this may be one of them. Also, it will make short work of pulling the washer headed nails attaching the siding.
As far as wainscoting... it's just a series of various Z flashing and J channels... the folks where ever you plan to buy your replacement siding can school you on that.
I did install a few thousand sq ft on a new building last year... I stumbled onto some color matched "button head" screws (with urethane washers) that use a T25 driver... they look great and take some of the work out of the install.
If you decide to do a wainscott, just be sure to vertically align the ribs of the upper and lower panels to prevent any mismatch.
I bought an 80 tooth carbide blade for my circ saw that made cuts fast and easy. I found it best to scribe the cut lines with a straight edge and a utility knife... makes it easier to see the line and get a straight cut. I bought some 1" styrofoam insulation to lay down on my work surface and set the depth of the saw a quarter inch or so deeper than the thickness of the siding... no problems... be prepared to deal with lots of scrap! ...And wear adequate eye and hearing protection!!
Just thinking about a job like this seems overwhelming... it's really not that bad. Once you get started you'll make faster progress than you think.
One thing they should caution you about is to not leave stacks of siding out where it can get wet. Moisture trapped between stacked panels can destroy the coating and will void your warranty.
As far as the stone veneer on the lower section... anything is possible... I've thought about doing that on my current garage (and probably will)... when I do it, my plan is to install 1/2" cement board (probably over a plywood substrate for rigidity) on the lower section and then apply the stone. A "Z" flashing will cap the lower section, then steel the rest of the way up.
Sounds like a great project... enjoy! ...And post progress... and pics!
...D
 

Warrenator

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May 31, 2008
Messages
781
Location
Newberg, OR
One thought, since you have spray foam insulation on part, why not just leave that siding in place and put new siding on top?
 

fourbyford

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Aug 3, 2017
Messages
913
Location
North Idaho... almost Canada!
...if you leave the lower section, do you plan to paint it? You might be able to just "go over" it with the new siding but, each manufacturer has their own dies for rolling their product. Profiles are similar but I seriously doubt they're identical. This may (or may not) be an issue if you're planning to cover the old siding with the new.
...D
 
OP
J

Jayhawk_Aviator

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Joined
Jun 2, 2015
Messages
123
I’d rather not paint it. The reason for replacing is more to fix the buggered up panels. More I think about it, new panels probably wouldn’t lay over the old very well in places.

Just trying to assess how much effort the deskin and replace would be. Especially since I have content inside
 

Stuart in MN

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Sep 8, 2005
Messages
23,089
Location
Minneapolis
I see some with two tone wainscotting (anyone have any pics on how that is done?). Also, is there a way to do a stone veneer on the bottom or something like that?


Check out a YouTube channel run by a pole barn builder named RR Buildings. Most of their buildings have a two tone wainscoting, and they've done several with a stone veneer.
 
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TLCObsession

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Joined
Aug 30, 2011
Messages
328
Location
Bellingham, WA
I modified one to match the house for a friend - just on the gable end you could see from the house. Took the corrugated tin off. Removed the girts and framed in a 2 x 6" wall. Insulated it, sheeted it. Faux stone up 40" and smooth Hardi lap siding above it to the eves. Hardi shingle above that. Looks killer. Did all the work from the outside. The realtor they used said if the previous owners had done it they could have gotten an extra $35K for the house.
 

zoepop

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Joined
Dec 9, 2013
Messages
129
FIL re-sided his old barn with new metal. It's 80x200x20 and highly visible from the house so he wanted to dress it up. Used a stone veneer product called stack n tack on the bottom 4'. Comes in panels about 6"-8"×2' that lock together and get screwed off. We put it over plywood wrapped with ice and water shield. Went up quick and looks good.

I'd post a pic but he'd probably bury me in the corn field
 

rburke65

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Joined
Nov 10, 2007
Messages
12,349
Location
Canfield, Ohio
I have an older pole barn that I am going to reside ....hopefully ..... with metal to match my newer shop. Shouldn’t be too hard.
 
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