Concrete Anchors for Garage Floor?

[bulletpruf]

Fellas -

Need to install some anchors in my garage floor. I frequently have project cars that need to be moved in and out, and these aren't always running. It's a bit of an incline to get into the garage and there's a lip to get over, of course. Yesterday it took 4 of us to get my 68 GTO convt. pushed in the garage, and you don't always have folks available to do this.

What I need is an anchor of some sort that I can hook a hand operated hoist/winch to (a come-along).

I'm thinking a simple setup like this will do it - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N08BLZC/?tag=atomicindus08-20

I could also go this route but that may be my next step, if needed - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C7ALAK0/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Anyone have any thoughts/experience?

Thanks,

Scott

 

[oledude1952]

The anchor pot I like because it would be flush and not a trip hazard. The eyebolt's bolt, would have to stick up above the concrete all the time to be used.

I used a Redhead "drop in" anchor in my garage floor, that I screw my threaded eye bolt in to. Then when I remove the eyebolt, I just screw a short bolt down in to the drop in anchor flush with the floor, so the anchors thread will not fill up with debris.

But I do not pull cars in with it, but I bet I could probaly.

Of course I have enough concrete cleared back from by 'filler" bolt head, to use a socket on it to remove it easily. . JMO

 

[JCQuick]

I use to install Frame equipment in body shops. Below is an example of what we installed. it takes a 4" core drill to install them but they will not come out

https://www.autobodytoolmart.com/champ-floor-anchor-pot-1600-p-11538.aspx

 

[LXCam]

A couple 1/2" drop in inserts with some 4-4-3/8" angle with an eyebolt will work all day long. That way when not in use the angle can be removed and you could install a couple counter sunk bolts in it flush with the floor to keep the debris out. That's what I've done for my shrinker stretcher when I need it next to what I'm working on.

 

[finn]

Use an insert. I had eye bolts installed during the pour, and it was a mistake to make them permanent rather than removable.

I curse them every time I trip over them.

 

[bulletpruf]

The anchor pot I like because it would be flush and not a trip hazard. The eyebolt's bolt, would have to stick up above the concrete all the time to be used.

I used a Redhead "drop in" anchor in my garage floor, that I screw my threaded eye bolt in to. Then when I remove the eyebolt, I just screw a short bolt down in to the drop in anchor flush with the floor, so the anchors thread will not fill up with debris.

But I do not pull cars in with it, but I bet I could probaly.

Of course I have enough concrete cleared back from by 'filler" bolt head, to use a socket on it to remove it easily. . JMO

Ok, so something like this? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002WGJRJU/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Thanks

Scott

 

[GMCGarage]

Drop in anchor all day.

 

[Sevenhills1952]

Wonder if an electric winch would be better. I use the Harbor Freight one overhead a lot, lifting stuff, mowers, etc.
Yours would be either permanently mounted or attachable to the back wall.

Sent from my SM-S320VL using Tapatalk

 

[Blueline]

I like I the unground pots. Can you post a pic of where you want this installed? I may have another idea based on your wall floor layout.

 

[bulletpruf]

Wonder if an electric winch would be better. I use the Harbor Freight one overhead a lot, lifting stuff, mowers, etc.
Yours would be either permanently mounted or attachable to the back wall.

Sent from my SM-S320VL using Tapatalk

I think that would work, but I need something that will work for now - read: inexpensive and simple. Phase 2 would be a winch that I could use for the garage or trailer, and easy to swap between the two.

thanks

 

[bulletpruf]

I like I the unground pots. Can you post a pic of where you want this installed? I may have another idea based on your wall floor layout.

Near the back wall behind the GTO.

 

[BD1]

All we use are drop in anchors for winching equipment. Normally use angle iron with two holes to bolt to slab and a slot or hole cut for come along hook. Never any issues. By having two anchors it adds a safety feature .
Eye bolt in a anchor will work provided the load moves easily. There's still a issue of the eye bolt bending over and breaking off.

 

[oledude1952]

Ok, so something like this? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002WGJRJU/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Thanks

Scott

Yep, like those. But like the other guys stated, for vehicle pulling using two drop in anchors 1/2" with angle iron would be better than depending on just one eye bolt.




Back in early 2000's when I was restoring my 79 F150 4x4 I had the same issue. While needing to pull it in and out of the garage while working on it, I just killed two birds with one stone.

So after I built my garage, I built my workbench in it strong enough to pull a big old truck. I installed a sheet of 1/4" thick steel plate on top of the workbench, that I built heavy duty with 2" x 6"'s and 2" x 4" top joists, using all bolts/construction screws in it. I bolted it to the wall studs with 1/2" x 5" (?) in. lags bolts.

I mounted a boat winch on a steel plate that made it portable, so I could store it under the bench out of the way, when it was not needed. I just dropped 4- 3 in. long 1/2 in. machine bolts through the winch base plate, through the bench top, to hold it place while winching the truck in.

It pulled the big old truck in the garage a LOT of times, like it was a puppy. H F has them cheap just be sure it is rated for the load pulled. My floor slope grade was only about 4 inches of fall, in 29 feet.

My one car garage back then, did not always look a mess though like it is in the pic below where I was starting the primer on the truck. What a mess painting a vehicle can be in their garage, for a first timer at least.

 

[bulletpruf]

All we use are drop in anchors for winching equipment. Normally use angle iron with two holes to bolt to slab and a slot or hole cut for come along hook. Never any issues. By having two anchors it adds a safety feature .
Eye bolt in a anchor will work provided the load moves easily. There's still a issue of the eye bolt bending over and breaking off.

Thanks, that's helpful info.

 

[bulletpruf]

Yep, like those. But like the other guys stated, for vehicle pulling using two drop in anchors 1/2" with angle iron would be better than depending on just one eye bolt.

Back in early 2000's when I was restoring my 79 F150 4x4 I had the same issue. While needing to pull it in and out of the garage while working on it, I just killed two birds with one stone.

So after I built my garage, I built my workbench in it strong enough to pull a big old truck. I installed a sheet of 1/4" thick steel plate on top of the workbench, that I built heavy duty with 2" x 6"'s and 2" x 4" top joists, using all bolts/construction screws in it. I bolted it to the wall studs with 1/2" x 5" (?) in. lags bolts.

I mounted a boat winch on a steel plate that made it portable, so I could store it under the bench out of the way, when it was not needed. I just dropped 4- 3 in. long 1/2 in. machine bolts through the winch base plate, through the bench top, to hold it place while winching the truck in.

It pulled the big old truck in the garage a LOT of times, like it was a puppy. H F has them cheap just be sure it is rated for the load pulled. My floor slope grade was only about 4 inches of fall, in 29 feet.

My one car garage back then, did not always look a mess though like it is in the pic below where I was starting the primer on the truck. What a mess painting a vehicle can be in their garage, for a first timer at least.

I like your solution, but probably a bit too involved for me at this point. Maybe for phase 2.

Thanks

 

[59 wagon man]

ok so I have a similar situation but it was 59 chevy wagon which dictated what I had to do . I bought a step bumper hitch from hf and using some drop in anchors bolted it to the floor. the I used a simple 2" ball hitch and the hf trailer hitch winch ( goes over a 2" ball hitch. eventually I needed a bigger winch for a job and got the 9000 lb winch on the receiver hitch frame and that's what I use now. when I dont need it I unbolt it from the floor and no tripping hazards

 

[Toomanytools?]

The anchor pots work great, but need to be put in when slab is poured or cored out later. The tool to core it out could be a challenge to get. The drop in can get filled with dirt but you can put a piece of tape over when not in use. I think the removable winch would be an easy solution, bolt it to some steel or 2x10 across 3 studs and into the wall plate. Make sure your wall can handle the pull. Even anchors close to the wall so you don't trip over them would work.

 

[Homerr]

$150 seems pretty cheap for the best solution as Sevenhills pointed out. Don't need massive capacity for rolling cars.

https://www.harborfreight.com/1500-lb-capacity-120-volt-ac-electric-winch-96127.html

They have a $70 one if you can hook it up to a battery.

 

[turbodave]

I used 5/8" - 11 drop in anchors I got from McMaster Carr, and a couple of 5/8" x 4" d-ring style bed bolts for this purpose. The bed bolt sleeves aren't needed, but I plan to add them to my car trailer so I can use the same anchors as an extra set of tie down points there when needed. The bed bolts come with plastic threaded inserts that should work well to keep dirt out of the inserts when not in use. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007CVSAAW/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[turbodave]

Regarding the winches, I got tired of the come-along, it gets the job done fine, but is slow and tiring to use. I picked up one of these drill-winches https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00SF70SN4/?tag=atomicindus08-20

It works fine for pulling a car around on flat ground and up the slight slope into my garage. Has a clutch that kicks in at 500lbs of force, so not ideal for loading a car on a trailer unless the line is doubled up, I have used it to load a rolling shell of a car on a utility trailer and it worked, but needed help at the steepest point.

Warn has a the higher capacity PullzAll, which is what I originally set out to get, but it's not something I use frequently enough to justify the price.

 

[acooper1983]

Red head drop ins will be fine, We used them all the time bolting down tuggers with 4000+lbs of force on big pulls, you could even get away with lead "AJs" but i would suggest 3/8 steel drop in anchors and be done with it. Make your hole deep enough that you can use a flat machine screw to sit flush with the concrete when not in use.

 

[bulletpruf]

ok so I have a similar situation but it was 59 chevy wagon which dictated what I had to do . I bought a step bumper hitch from hf and using some drop in anchors bolted it to the floor. the I used a simple 2" ball hitch and the hf trailer hitch winch ( goes over a 2" ball hitch. eventually I needed a bigger winch for a job and got the 9000 lb winch on the receiver hitch frame and that's what I use now. when I dont need it I unbolt it from the floor and no tripping hazards

Eventually, I'd like to have a winch on a receiver hitch frame to use both in the garage and the trailer. Thanks

 

[bulletpruf]

The anchor pots work great, but need to be put in when slab is poured or cored out later. The tool to core it out could be a challenge to get. The drop in can get filled with dirt but you can put a piece of tape over when not in use. I think the removable winch would be an easy solution, bolt it to some steel or 2x10 across 3 studs and into the wall plate. Make sure your wall can handle the pull. Even anchors close to the wall so you don't trip over them would work.

I would rather hook to the floor than the wall. Wall space will be pretty much used up with cabinets and such, too.

Thanks

 

[bulletpruf]

$150 seems pretty cheap for the best solution as Sevenhills pointed out. Don't need massive capacity for rolling cars.

https://www.harborfreight.com/1500-lb-capacity-120-volt-ac-electric-winch-96127.html

They have a $70 one if you can hook it up to a battery.

Something like that will work, but I plan to go with a stouter unit for pulling stuff up on trailers, especially with flat tires, maybe sticking brakes, etc.

Thanks

 

[bulletpruf]

Regarding the winches, I got tired of the come-along, it gets the job done fine, but is slow and tiring to use. I picked up one of these drill-winches https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00SF70SN4/?tag=atomicindus08-20

It works fine for pulling a car around on flat ground and up the slight slope into my garage. Has a clutch that kicks in at 500lbs of force, so not ideal for loading a car on a trailer unless the line is doubled up, I have used it to load a rolling shell of a car on a utility trailer and it worked, but needed help at the steepest point.

Warn has a the higher capacity PullzAll, which is what I originally set out to get, but it's not something I use frequently enough to justify the price.

Hey, that's a new one for me! Sure could have used it a few weeks ago when I was trying to get the dead car up on my trailer and the come-along I had was getting bound up.

 

[bulletpruf]

Red head drop ins will be fine, We used them all the time bolting down tuggers with 4000+lbs of force on big pulls, you could even get away with lead "AJs" but i would suggest 3/8 steel drop in anchors and be done with it. Make your hole deep enough that you can use a flat machine screw to sit flush with the concrete when not in use.

Thanks, and good point on flat machine screw, too.

 

[59 wagon man]

look up boat trailer winch on harbor freight . I used this for many yrs. between the winch, step bumper trailer hitch and 2" ball and hitch your at about$100. a couple of read heads to bolt down the hitch and your done. when the holes get full of dirt a shop vac takes care of that. only downside to this winch is it does not power out . cheapest and easiest way

 

[bulletpruf]

look up boat trailer winch on harbor freight . I used this for many yrs. between the winch, step bumper trailer hitch and 2" ball and hitch your at about$100. a couple of read heads to bolt down the hitch and your done. when the holes get full of dirt a shop vac takes care of that. only downside to this winch is it does not power out . cheapest and easiest way

I'll check out the boat trailer winch. That should be easier than using a come-along.

Thanks

 

[bulletpruf]

I ordered a box of 1/2" Red Head drop in inserts and the tool to install them.