Two quotes for garage floor coating – which to choose?

[kapnk]

I am hoping to get some help evaluating a couple proposals I received for coating my garage floor. I actually received 4 proposals for this job, and after reading on this site for the last couple weeks, I have narrowed it down to the top two.

The Floor:
The garage was originally a 2-car garage, and was expanded out back, approximately doubling the space. The front slab is probably circa 1968, and has some hairline cracks near the center. The rear slab was poured a couple years ago and has saw cut joints and a nice (very smooth) power-troweled surface. I actually am sad to cover up the nice surface, but it seems all the options are to cover it. The total size is ~1100 sf. For both proposals, coating of the curbing/stem walls are included.

The use of the garage will be mostly for parking, but I am a weekend warrior with wrenches, so the floor will see floor jacks and jack stands, and I want it to hold up to that. I do welding, but will keep that activity outside the garage.

This garage is new to me (yay!), so I’m hoping to get it coated before I get all my “stuff” in (end of May). The time constraint is also the reason why I’m looking to enlist the services of a pro vs DIY.

Installer 1:
This installer uses Penntek full-broadcast flake polyurea/polyaspartic system. This is a 1-day floor coating. My impression is that residential garages is their bread-and-butter. Their proposal includes:

• Profile by diamond grinding.
• Repair cracks and pitting with mender.
• Apply polyurea base coat.
• Full broadcast of chips.
• Apply 93% solids polyurea and polyaspartic blend top coat.

The cost for this is $5500.

The warranty is lifetime on UV Stability, and 15 years on chipping peeling and delamination. As I understand it, it is materials-only warranty, and does not cover water issues. The warranty statement appears to give them plenty of outs. They do perform a moisture test prior to installation.

They can schedule me as soon as next Friday.

Installer 2:
This installer has experience with various systems, but is proposing General Polymers for my project. My impression is that they do more commercial work than residential. They have four options, two flake and two quartz options. The exact process was not spelled out to me, so I am conveying the details to the best of my ability.

All four options include the following, which I understand to occur on “Day 1” in all scenarios.

• Profiling by shot blasting.
• Repairing cracks and pitting with mender.
• Moisture mitigation primer.

Installer 2 option 1 – Vinyl flake, 3-day, $6100

• Apply epoxy base coat.
• Full broadcast of flakes.
• Apply polyaspartic top coat.

Installer 2 option 2 – Vinyl flake, 2-day, $7300

• Apply polyaspartic base coat.
• Full broadcast of flakes.
• Apply polyaspartic top coat.

Installer 2 option 3 – Uncolored quartz floor with solid/opaque resin, 3-day, $6500

• Apply epoxy base coat.
• Full broadcast of uncolored quartz.
• Apply polyaspartic top coat.

Installer 2 option 4 – Colored quartz broadcast with clear resin topcoat, 3-day, $7000

• Apply epoxy base coat.
• Full broadcast of colored quartz.
• Apply polyaspartic top coat.

I am not sure if these are single or double broadcast systems. This installer does not perform a moisture test, but does use the moisture mitigation primer, regardless of install.

The warranty for Installer 2 is 1-year, and reads like it’s a materials and labor warranty. Like installer 1, the warranty seems to provide plenty of “outs”.

They can schedule me in May, when Wisconsin temps maintain 60-degrees.

Discussion:
Here are my thoughts about installer 1.

• Like that the install takes 1-day.
• Don’t like that no primer is used – and worried that the 1-day install is pushing it too fast for quality.
• Like that they can schedule me in soon.
• Like that polyaspartic systems are good and durable.
• Like that a moisture test will be performed.
• Like the 15-year warranty (albeit with many “outs”).
• Like the cost.

Here are my thoughts about installer 2.

• Like that the install takes 2-3 days. Makes me think I’m getting a better value. Makes me think of what Scotty wrote “I like a system that installs like a half-marathon, not a sprint.”
• Don’t like that it takes 2-3 days. Harder to find a place for everything for that amount of time. Minor inconvenience if it’s really a better floor.
• Like that shot blasting is the prep method – have read that it’s slightly better than grinding.
• Like that primer is used.
• Don’t like that I have to wait until May for the install.
• Like that the quartz option was presented to me – research says it’s very durable.

Setting scheduling aside, here are a couple differences I’m wondering about.

• How much of an advantage is it to have a system with primer, such as Installer 2 uses? Is it worth the $600-1800 premium (comparing the $5500 option from Installer 1 to the two vinyl flake options from Installer 2).
• Is the quartz a good value at $6.36/sf? I’m excited to have the option of a quartz floor and like the subtle and classy look, and the thought that it might be more durable.
• Any other thoughts on the differences between the installers or coating systems?

I appreciate any and all thoughts. Thanks for being part of this process. 

 

[Armorpoxy]

We have never sold a quartz floor that is not a double broadcast with intercoats for even finish,nor doesn’t have two coats of topcoat as the floor will be too gritty and hard to keep clean with only a single coat of topcoat. The quartz makes it like sandpaper and the thin topcoat won’t fill it enough. It’s too inexpensive for a proper quartz floor.

Use of primer is always better since it evens out porosity and improves bonding and makes the floor thicker since the midcoat can’t sink in.

As for full broadcasts we always sell double topcoats since the overlapping flecks create millions of gaps that need filling, and then another coat of topcoat to properly seal it.

Check sample chips of their work and keep the sample to compare the finished product with before you pay them final. We have seen many times installers show a sample chip but the floor you get is not the same. One satisfied you can give them their sample chip back!

 

[BucksCtyMike]

Just had a dura-flex polycrete floor 3 day installation finished today in a restaurant I own. I like what installer 2 is telling you.

I just wouldn’t trust a 1 day install. The shot blasting is a must imo especially for the 1960’s section.

Went with a broadcast flake, poly top coat for wear and chemical resistance.
Ask if they will machine finish and knock down flakes before top coat is applied.
Dura flex allows you to custom blend your own flake colors. I used this website, who supplies the flake

Dora flex will make sample squares of flooring in the flake of your choice before deciding. I had them send me 5 samples to compare.

http://www.torginol.com/




Before top coat


After 2nd top coat




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[kapnk]

Thank you both for your input.

Armor, thanks for weighing in about the quartz, I was worried it seems too good to be true. 3-days seems short for a double broadcast. The way I figure it:
Day 1 - prep and prime
Day 2 - first quartz broadcast with epoxy
Day 3 - second quartz broadcast with epoxy
Day 4 - first top coat - maybe epoxy
Day 5 - second top coat - polyaspartic
Could maybe combine Day 4 and Day 5 if both were quick-setting polyaspartic.

I'm not wed to quartz, but it's good to know that 2 top coats should be used over flake. Good point about keeping the chip sample to compare with the final product.

Mike, first of all, the floor you ended up with looks great! Thanks for your thoughts on installer 2 - it does seem like they try to do things right, for example not skipping the primer.

You mentioned machining to knock down the flakes - and I will ask. I am curious though, in my research it seems like manual scraping and vacuuming is the usual approach. What is the difference in result between manual vs machine?

Thanks to the link to Torginol, I will check them out.

 

[Armorpoxy]

Hi,he quartz process can be done faster if they use polyaspartic since it cries in an hour or two.

Our comment was more about requiring double broadcast of quartz, we never see single quartz broadcasts. Duraflex, for which our Installation Division installs practically forbids single quartz broadcast.

For the topcoat on quartz no clear epoxy, it could yellow, two coats urethane or polyaspartic better.

 

[BucksCtyMike]

You mentioned machining to knock down the flakes - and I will ask. I am curious though, in my research it seems like manual scraping and vacuuming is the usual approach. What is the difference in result between manual vs machine?

Thanks to the link to Torginol, I will check them out.

Per the machine, I’m just going off what my installer mentioned. He’s done both, but stated a floor matching with a light pad (he did not specifically say what pad) produced a more even surface. The grit for traction can be custom blended per the customers preference in the top coat.

As stated, our poly coat was dry enough to walk on within 4-6 hours. The installer needed about 2 hours between coats. Keep in mind, indoors we had heat set at 70 for 3 days, so drying time may vary in garage.

Waited a full 24 before we started moving heavy equipment back into kitchen


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[LegacyIndustrial]

Hi,he quartz process can be done faster if they use polyaspartic since it cries in an hour or two.

Our comment was more about requiring double broadcast of quartz, we never see single quartz broadcasts. Duraflex, for which our Installation Division installs practically forbids single quartz broadcast.

For the topcoat on quartz no clear epoxy, it could yellow, two coats urethane or polyaspartic better.

Ditto on the quartz-broadcasts, double up or don't bother.
Epoxy-Clear is great on lab floors and kennels (flake and quartz), indoors only and typically when they can't tolerate any smell.

 

[kapnk]

Thank you guys so much for the input - I am so appreciative to have the expert advice!

I received clarification from Installer 2 regarding the top coat. It is a 1 layer of polyaspartic topcoat. I was mistaken in earlier saying that any portion of the top coat might be epoxy. The following are the quantities. 85 sq ft/gal for quartz and 90 sq ft/gal for flake. He says these #'s are appropriate for a residential garage, but is happy to add an additional layer for an upcharge if I want. The coating quantities are on the stout end of the scale, assuming it is General Polymers 4850 which is being used. The following snippet is from the 4850 data sheet.

"Apply General Polymers 4850 at spread rate of 106-162 sq. ft. per gallon to yield 10-15 mils WFT using a squeegee. Back roll with a non shedding 3/8" or lower nap roller."

How does this align with what you guys would spec out for a job?

Mike - I got confirmation that both installers scrape the flakes with hand tools (not machine). I can definitely see how machining (or even pole sanding as I've seen some pics of) would be good to knock all the high spots down. I suppose machining is a bit riskier if trying to push the job fast and everything isn't totally cured. Just my guess.


I can't thank you guys enough for the help.

 

[geneworldwide]

Thank you guys so much for the input - I am so appreciative to have the expert advice!

I received clarification from Installer 2 regarding the top coat. It is a 1 layer of polyaspartic topcoat. I was mistaken in earlier saying that any portion of the top coat might be epoxy. The following are the quantities. 85 sq ft/gal for quartz and 90 sq ft/gal for flake. He says these #'s are appropriate for a residential garage, but is happy to add an additional layer for an upcharge if I want. The coating quantities are on the stout end of the scale, assuming it is General Polymers 4850 which is being used. The following snippet is from the 4850 data sheet.

"Apply General Polymers 4850 at spread rate of 106-162 sq. ft. per gallon to yield 10-15 mils WFT using a squeegee. Back roll with a non shedding 3/8" or lower nap roller."

How does this align with what you guys would spec out for a job?

Mike - I got confirmation that both installers scrape the flakes with hand tools (not machine). I can definitely see how machining (or even pole sanding as I've seen some pics of) would be good to knock all the high spots down. I suppose machining is a bit riskier if trying to push the job fast and everything isn't totally cured. Just my guess.


I can't thank you guys enough for the help.

kapnk - how did your floor work out for you? I'm in the process of talking with installers and am curious about the GP 4850. Thanks!

 

[kapnk]

Very happy with the final outcome with the 4850. Have had gas and oil spilled on the floor, and it cleans up very well.

Mike foreshadowed a few problems we had with the install. We had Torginol flakes used on the floor, and selected a blend with a small percent (less than 3%) of metallic flakes. As I understand, the metallic flakes are made from metalized mylar, think party balloons. The metallic flakes didn't scrape/vacuum up like regular flakes. When it came time to apply and backroll the clear polyaspartic top coat, the stray mylar flakes would lift up and stand on end. The end result was a spikey floor. Now I can see why someone might machine and then apply grit to get the desired grip level as Mike mentioned. That said, we probably would have been just fine without the metallic.

The resolution was long (both in time and the words it would take to explain), but the final approach was to lightly sand the spikey floor and then apply another coat of clear polyaspartic over the top. This final polyapartic had a very light broadcast of grit (quarts aggregate) to provide traction. It was spread by hand and then backrolled. I was hesitant on the aggregate, but the installer strongly recommended it due to the loss of grip from the sanding. I'm VERY happy they pushed the grit. There are a few places which don't have much/any grit, and it is SLIPPERY when snowy. Not sure if you are in a snowy region, but thought I'd mention it.

Hope that helps.

 

[Bigblockyeti]

Do you have any pictures? I've been thinking metallic flake would look great, almost like a Ranger bass boat.

 

[Armorpoxy]

Hi 'metallic' flakes are exactly per above, they are cut from mylar and are very 'light' and very difficult to work with and broadcast since they are not the same material as traditional flecks. Think of trying to put tons of mylar glitter on a floor.

On a boat they spray it on using special spray equipment and agree, it does look great, but hand broadcasting it onto a floor for a full metallic look we would not recommend.

If you want some sparkle/shine, contact us directly at below (Not PM please) as we sell 'holographic' flecks which cam be mixed into regular fleck mixes at 5-20% and give the floor 'sparkle' and life and may be able to achieve to a great extent the look that you want.

 

[Armorpoxy]

....

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

Do you have any pictures? I've been thinking metallic flake would look great, almost like a Ranger bass boat.

Ditto glitter-flake. PIA.
After the clear is applied they will "stand-up".
Then you have to sand well (not scrape but sand).
Then another clear-coat.

It looks cool, but extra step is needed.