Needing opinions on driveway top layer gravel size. I currently have about 3-4" depth of #53 size. I know different areas of the country use different sizing, but 53 in our area is a mix of 1.5" gravel down to .5" with lime mixed in. It has compacted down really well to an almost concrete like surface. The problem is it lets lots of weeds grow and I was also wanting to have an overall nicer appearance. What size should I use for top layer? I was thinking #7. Thanks
Driveway gravel size
- Thread starter lkempf
- Start date
Slowgsr
Well-known member
I use 3/4 crusher run.
For weeds I use roundup.
For weeds I use roundup.
Captain Spaulding
Well-known member
I use #7. Some people use smaller stuff, but in my experience the vehicle carry a lot more rock into the garage. No stone will stop weeds.
3/4” down is what I would use and call it exactly as it is. 3/4” down to fines. Packs nice.
I would call yours 1.5” down. Cuz it has smaller rock. If no fines or smaller stone I’d call it 1.5” clean. That’s how our gravel yards work round me.
I would think larger rock would be hard to walk on without enough fines in it.
I would call yours 1.5” down. Cuz it has smaller rock. If no fines or smaller stone I’d call it 1.5” clean. That’s how our gravel yards work round me.
I would think larger rock would be hard to walk on without enough fines in it.
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Firebrick43
Well-known member
Gravel grading is regional or even by state. In Indiana to top dress drives is either #73's or #8's. #73's are similar to #53's but smaller stone to fines. #7's are to course. #8's are are 3/4 minus with the fines. I prefer 8's as you don't track fines but they need packed with a plate. #73's will pack with traffic and will slow weeds some but not stop them. The only way to stop weeds is either an initial layer of geotextile or a couple of inches of ag lime before the base layers and your past that now.
Since it wasn't started right now you can pave or use a ground sterilizer such as barrier or pramitol. Barrier and pramitol 25E are liquid and pramitol 5ps is a pellet. It will last for a year if applied in the early spring. If applied later it will be slow at killing current growth but will, or you can burn down with roundup. Do not use pramitol around trees or it will kill them.
Since it wasn't started right now you can pave or use a ground sterilizer such as barrier or pramitol. Barrier and pramitol 25E are liquid and pramitol 5ps is a pellet. It will last for a year if applied in the early spring. If applied later it will be slow at killing current growth but will, or you can burn down with roundup. Do not use pramitol around trees or it will kill them.
Bondo
Well-known member
Ayuh,..... 'round here, We use 3/4" minus, crushed limestone,......
Yer not gonna stop the vegetation,.....
The seeds blow in all the time, 'n sprout,.....
Round-up will kill 'em, after they sprout,.....
Bretny
Well-known member
Dont use round up. Use a weed burner. Yes you will have to do it again but you wont be spraying poison allover your property.
Dont get me wrong i do use round up but only on the fields of poison ivy i have. On the driveway i use a weed burner. I only go through a 20lb tank a summer. I have a parking area that fits 7 cars and a circle driveway.
Dont get me wrong i do use round up but only on the fields of poison ivy i have. On the driveway i use a weed burner. I only go through a 20lb tank a summer. I have a parking area that fits 7 cars and a circle driveway.
#1
Crushed stone #1 is the largest of the crushed stone grades and includes stone that is between 2-4 inches. This materials is great for larger jobs or for filling in larger holes.
#3
Crushed stone #3 includes stone between 1/2 and 2 inches. This material is a great choice for railroad projects and those that require drainage.
#5
Crushed stone #5 includes stone that is 1 inch or smaller in size. This material is perfect for road and paver base.
#8
Crushed stone #8 includes stone between 3/8” and ½”. This is the most common stone used for concrete mixes.
#10
Crushed stone #10 is known as screenings or dust. This material is used to create pavers and concrete blocks.
#57
Crushed stone #57 refers to stone that is about ¾”. This is typically used for concrete mix, landscaping and drainage.
#67
Crushed stone #67 includes stone that is ¾” or smaller in size. This is a great material for road and slab base as well as fill.
Crushed stone #1 is the largest of the crushed stone grades and includes stone that is between 2-4 inches. This materials is great for larger jobs or for filling in larger holes.
#3
Crushed stone #3 includes stone between 1/2 and 2 inches. This material is a great choice for railroad projects and those that require drainage.
#5
Crushed stone #5 includes stone that is 1 inch or smaller in size. This material is perfect for road and paver base.
#8
Crushed stone #8 includes stone between 3/8” and ½”. This is the most common stone used for concrete mixes.
#10
Crushed stone #10 is known as screenings or dust. This material is used to create pavers and concrete blocks.
#57
Crushed stone #57 refers to stone that is about ¾”. This is typically used for concrete mix, landscaping and drainage.
#67
Crushed stone #67 includes stone that is ¾” or smaller in size. This is a great material for road and slab base as well as fill.
Firebrick43
Well-known member
Once again, stone sizing is regional or even by state. Here in Indiana were the OP hails from we have none of those sizes except 5's and #8's. But many yards don't have #5's instead have #4's.
greenskeeper
Well-known member
Easy way to eliminate weeds in a stone driveway is to apply rock salt liberally to the driveway and let the rain wash it in.
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I used what is locally called ‘crush and run’ which appears to be aprromately 57 and maybe a little smaller with pulverized stone/stone dust mixed in. We drove on it a year, then I had one more layer on the top, then drove on it for a year, then had 57 as a top coat.
It can rain for a week and my dually still won’t sink in it.
It can rain for a week and my dually still won’t sink in it.
sdeeter19555
Well-known member
I know that as "3/4 minus"...everything that will pass a 3/4" screen.
It does vary by region, we ordered some #3 in Texas (came from Oklahoma) and it would have been #1 or #2 riprap around here...
I think a lot of it comes from the different nomenclatures, is it screen, gravel, or riprap? Well gravels and sands have the same issue...what is a #1 there is a 10/20 here...
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Thanks for the ideas/opinions. I think I am going to try the rock salt idea to try and stop the weeds. I currently use round-up, but am tired of doing it every month or so, and I also don't like the fact that it is really bad for you. As far as my top layer I am going to go with 3" of #7. I prefer to have the slightly bigger rock because it doesn't get caught in tires as bad and end up in the garage.
Robby321
Well-known member
3/4 minus...........its not rocket science
sdeeter19555
Well-known member
My Grandfather's driveway was a #3a, which is the larger gravels up to about 3 inch, it worked surprisingly well for a driveway. Definitely did not track that any...made plowing snow a pain however.
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manwithtools
ALLIANCE MEMBER
And this is another example of regionalism. What you describe as "crush and run" is what I believe is more correctly called "crusher run" - meaning it's what the output of the crusher most frequently is; without further screening to separate the sizes and fines.
In other areas, it called driveway mix, 3/4 minus, etc.
And now we can add 3/4" road base.....
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Lassen Forge
Well-known member
3/4" road base, wetted, rolled, and compacted, topped with 3/4" crushed granite as a wear course, again, wetted and rolled. Should give you years of stable roadway, the rock on top will keep the fines in the base from migrating too fast.
greenskeeper
Well-known member
When you apply the salt, "more is better", try to at least make it look like a light dusting of snow. If weeds still germinate....add some more. You'll know when you've hit the saturation point when nothing grows for an entire season.
As far as roundup, it's one of the SAFEST herbicides out there.
NotOrganized
Well-known member
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- Sep 18, 2014
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I would recommend a full on hazmat suit if you plan to use Roundup or any herbicide. I say flame the weeds, or concrete.
Maybe a good road underlayment/geotextile under the gravel.
greenskeeper
Well-known member
If you're worried about roundup, you should see what's applied to coffee plants so you can have your daily cup.
frank001
Well-known member
Exactly - 'crusher run' is the correct term. In other words, material that has been run through a crusher.
frank001
Well-known member
I have used salt with limited success. It did help some. Roundup (used with a little common sense) does a great job. Don't drink it or bath in it.
sdeeter19555
Well-known member
I've heard both, and it depends on the part of the country.
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frank001
Well-known member
Quote:
Originally Posted by frank001 View Post
Exactly - 'crusher run' is the correct term. In other words, material that has been run through a crusher.
Originally Posted by frank001 View Post
Exactly - 'crusher run' is the correct term. In other words, material that has been run through a crusher.
I agree with everyone on the plastic underlayment. If I could go back i would have done that, but it's too late now.
If you are just going to make a smart a$$ comment please don't. No need for know-it-alls. I'm simply asking what other people have had success with. I'm not asking for help with "rocket science".
If you are just going to make a smart a$$ comment please don't. No need for know-it-alls. I'm simply asking what other people have had success with. I'm not asking for help with "rocket science".
marinusdees
Well-known member
If you can find monobor chlorate broadcast it on your driveway parking area. Then, fugedabbout it.
JonBoehman
Well-known member
Being from western KY we aren't to far from similar soil types. I live on a hill and I used #3 for compaction base but then for final top layer I used #57 dense grade gravel. It seems to really hold together well on a sloped drive. Should do really well on a flat drive.
greenskeeper
Well-known member
Probably didn’t quite get to the saturation point
WaterBoyz
Well-known member
I've seen chipped slate. A mix of large and small. Drains wells and packs like concrete. Where I live now, they never heard of it.
I'm getting ready to lay down crushed concrete.. A little cheaper than crusher run, but with the fines in it, it'll set up just like concrete.. The key is to water the hell out of it and pack it. It'll be good and dusty until it gets a couple rains on it, but everyone I've seen use it really likes it. Not quite as "pretty" as #57 clean, but works well.
Firebrick43
Well-known member
Crushed concrete is as broad as saying just crushed stone. While some may be great, much of its junk. The load I tried for fill had way to much fines and held water for long periods. Also many have had issues with steel in it puncturing tires. One tire punctured makes for no savings over stone. As a base under something, meh ok, if your not using rubber tired backhoe to put it down.
homelessdespot
Well-known member
They are saying roundup might be playing a role in killing bees. Do salt or burner.
https://www.npr.org/2018/09/25/6516...ller-could-be-linked-to-widespread-bee-deaths
https://www.npr.org/2018/09/25/6516...ller-could-be-linked-to-widespread-bee-deaths
NotOrganized
Well-known member
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I am not a fan of chemicals. None are really safe. Salt is the safest. I hate weeds in my gravel drive, but hate chemicals more. My gravel gets mowed.
Captain Spaulding
Well-known member
Salt is a chemical. Roundup is a salt too.
theoldwizard1
Well-known member
Crush rock packs the best, especially when mixed with finer rock (stone dust).
What ever you do, stay away from "river rock"/"pea gravel" or any gravel with smooth rounded edges. It will not compact down and will always move, especially when driving on it.
What ever you do, stay away from "river rock"/"pea gravel" or any gravel with smooth rounded edges. It will not compact down and will always move, especially when driving on it.
Around here, there are 3 popular types for driveways. 57, 68, and 72's
57's are mostly 1/2" - 1" stone
68's are 3/8" - 3/4"
72's are 1/2" - minus
Our driveway has been around since 1971, so it's established well. It's always had 57's on it until about 5 years ago when we put down a fresh coat of 68's. The 68's, being a little bit smaller, compact better for a firmer surface. 57's take a long time to "settle down."
The only downside, is that 68's pack into tire tread more so than the larger stone....but any is to be expected with a gravel driveway
57's are mostly 1/2" - 1" stone
68's are 3/8" - 3/4"
72's are 1/2" - minus
Our driveway has been around since 1971, so it's established well. It's always had 57's on it until about 5 years ago when we put down a fresh coat of 68's. The 68's, being a little bit smaller, compact better for a firmer surface. 57's take a long time to "settle down."
The only downside, is that 68's pack into tire tread more so than the larger stone....but any is to be expected with a gravel driveway