Corrugated Metal Installation on Ceiling

[b-boy]

I bought some of this to put on a ceiling. I have 12ft panels. My joist spacing is 4ft OC.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Union-Corrugating-2-16-ft-x-12-ft-Corrugated-Steel-Roof-Panel/3317584

Any advice on how to install this? I'm going to use standard roofing screws to hold it up.

I assume I need to overlap the metal on the ends and sides. How much overlap is necessary?

 

[Kaizen]

You can do what you want as it’s just decorative. A few inches in length is good. But 4 ft is too much. I’d do two feet.
However it *****. I used old aged panels for the same thing. Room had recessed lights. Had to make custom covers as the ribs won’t allow normal ones. Also my room was out of square so I had to cut to fit and then make a wavy piece of wood to fill below it. Total pita. Took it out after half installing and put up drywall.


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[b-boy]

Thanks. It does feel pretty thin, but I figured it would work OK for a ceiling. I don't have recessed lights.

 

[bullnerd]

I used a drywall lift to install metal ceiling in my shop, 10ft ceiling height.

There's some pics in my sig.

I overlapped the ends 2" and the sides one, whatever you call the corrugations?

My trusses are 4' also.

I used the metal liner panels, but same idea.

 

[PugetDude]

For an interior liner panel, don't waste your money on roofing screws.
Self-piercing pan head sheet metal screws will work fine.

 

[brownbagg]

that stuff going be noisy, echo chamber

 

[NUTTSGT]

Get a drywall lift, it'll make life alot easier.

 

[rburke65]

Yes.....drywall lift. I know from experience

 

[finn]

Overlap one rib sideways ans about two inches length wise.

Use pole barn screws. I don’t think they are outrageously expensive, and they pierce the metal well.

Use a drywall lift.

Metal ceilings aren’t noisy. It’s an old wife’s tale.

 

[Kaizen]

Overlap one rib sideways ans about two inches length wise.

Use pole barn screws. I don’t think they are outrageously expensive, and they pierce the metal well.

Use a drywall lift.

Metal ceilings aren’t noisy. It’s an old wife’s tale.

Guess you haven’t heard my old wife yelling in a metal ceiling room. Lol kidding. I call her an ex wife


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[b-boy]

Thanks. I do have a drywall lift. I already bought the metal roofing screws, so I'll just use those. How many screws per panel? If I screw it at every other rib, is that sufficient?

 

[finn]

Guess you haven’t heard my old wife yelling in a metal ceiling room. Lol kidding. I call her an ex wife


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My shop is pretty low noise . It has a metal dropped ceiling (and upper walls), and is insulated with bats.

There’s an attached, enclosed lean to, with tin on top of purlins. That’s pretty noisy, especially when raining.

The insulation makes a big difference to the noise damping.

 

[finn]

Thanks. I do have a drywall lift. I already bought the metal roofing screws, so I'll just use those. How many screws per panel? If I screw it at every other rib, is that sufficient?

Donneed that many. Three or four across the width is adequate. The screws just hold up the weight of the panel.

 

[NUTTSGT]

Thanks. I do have a drywall lift. I already bought the metal roofing screws, so I'll just use those. How many screws per panel? If I screw it at every other rib, is that sufficient?

They go beside the rib, not on the rib itself.

 

[PugetDude]

They go beside the rib, not on the rib itself.

+1
Screw in the valleys so you can pull them up tight without distorting the panels.

 

[John in OH]

that stuff going be noisy, echo chamber

Nope, not true. I've had my steel ceiling up for about 7 years and love it.

See my build thread,

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=98038&page=5

pg 5, post #84, for metal ceiling install pics and comments.

 

[b-boy]

Thanks. I understand they go beside the rib. Sounds like I can use a screw about every 3rd valley.

One more thing. Ideally the panel ends should probably meet/overlap on a joist.

However, I have 12 ft panels and joists that are 48" OC. With a few inches of overlap required between panels, that might create a problem. I'll miss the joists by an inch or so in some cases.

How have you guys handled this? Should I sister in some additional 2x4s in key areas to create a nailing point?

 

[PugetDude]

Thanks. I understand they go beside the rib. Sounds like I can use a screw about every 3rd valley.

One more thing. Ideally the panel ends should probably meet/overlap on a joist.

However, I have 12 ft panels and joists that are 48" OC. With a few inches of overlap required between panels, that might create a problem. I'll miss the joists by an inch or so in some cases.

How have you guys handled this? Should I sister in some additional 2x4s in key areas to create a nailing point?

Angle trim around the perimeter.

 

[not enoughsmoke]

I have never used a Drywall Lift I put mine up with Rope ratchets

 

[NUTTSGT]

Thanks. I understand they go beside the rib. Sounds like I can use a screw about every 3rd valley.

One more thing. Ideally the panel ends should probably meet/overlap on a joist.

However, I have 12 ft panels and joists that are 48" OC. With a few inches of overlap required between panels, that might create a problem. I'll miss the joists by an inch or so in some cases.

How have you guys handled this? Should I sister in some additional 2x4s in key areas to create a nailing point?

That's why I would have custom ordered the panels for 12' + in length. That would have easily allowed for overlapping.

I might try to start laying out the sheets and possibly add a 2x6 flat along the bottom chord edge to create a wide joint area. You could then span across from trusses to truss to help support if need be. If everything lays out okay, a 2x4 sistered to every third truss might work.

You just need to start taking measurements to be sure everything is at the right spacing before you start hanging sheets.

 

[CraigStu]

As cheap as the panels are I would just sacrifice one. Cut it into a bunch of 6-8 in lengths to use as joint covers.

 

[b-boy]

Thanks - I figured I'd have to do some sistering to create nailing points. I like the idea of using angle trim as well. It should make the installation a little easier.

 

[Mattlt]

I don't think anyone has mentioned this yet, but start hanging sheets in the back of back of the building and work your way toward the front. This way the seams are overlapped the correct way and they won't seem as noticeable. I always look for this when entering someone's shop - amazing how many are "wrong."

The angle trim you are referring to is commonly called J-channel. You'll want that around the entire perimeter of the building.

Oh, and personally I would put a screw in every valley but that's just me.

 

[bullnerd]

"You just need to start taking measurements to be sure everything is at the right spacing before you start hanging sheets."

 

[cabin fever]

Helpful hint

Stack all the sheets perfectly. Measure your trusses and pre drill your holes through all the sheets at once

Then your screws will be in a straight line. You may have to make a couple stacks since your overlapping.

 

[DynoDave]

I don't think anyone has mentioned this yet, but start hanging sheets in the back of back of the building and work your way toward the front. This way the seams are overlapped the correct way and they won't seem as noticeable. I always look for this when entering someone's shop - amazing how many are "wrong."

Good food for thought. But with overhead doors in one wall, and the service door in another, which way is "right"?