Impact driver + 3/8" adapter vs. 3/8" impact wrench?

[BikeRider]

I have a 1/2" impact wrench, a Craftsman 19.2V C3, that's been great for what I need it to do e.g. removing lug nuts, axle nuts & caliper bolts, pressing wheel bearings off and on, etc. I've also used it on lower-torque fasteners, but it's pretty big and unwieldy and not very easy or pleasant to use on those, especially when clearance is very tight. That's what 1/4" & 3/8" impact wrenches and impact ratchets are for, I realize. But, I don't do enough auto work to justify getting those in addition to the 1/2".

However, I recently bought a driver/drill and impact driver set (also Craftsman, albeit from their new and likely soon to be orphaned 20V line), and am thinking of getting an impact-grade 1/4" hex to 1/4", 3/8" & 1/2" square adapter set, so that I can use the impact driver as an impact wrench in situations where I can't use the 1/2" impact wrench or prefer not to because it's so big and heavy. I'm just wondering how well this works in real-life situations, for auto work.

The one to get appears to be this Milwaukee set:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwauk...cket-Adapter-Set-3-Piece-48-32-5033/204408619

The set seems to be OOS everywhere, but the standalones are available at HD.

Obviously if you regularly need a 3/8" impact wrench then you get one and use it, and not a jerry-rigged compromise like this. Same for a 1/4". But, like I said I don't work on cars often enough to justify getting one, and I'm wonderinig if it's worth going this path for occasional use or if it's more trouble than it's worth, in terms of wobble, length of adapter + socket, breakage, decreased torque, etc., and I'm better off using hand tools or splurging for an actual 3/8" impact wrench.

Note that I'd probably use it most often for smaller and lower-torque fasteners, no more than 17mm and 80 ft-lbs and usually less than that (although I might also use it to speed up fastening lug nuts before torquing them down properly with a torque wrench), both removing and reapplying. I.e. where the 1/2" impact wrench would be overkill or worse. So I probably won't break the shaft. In fact for really low-torque fasteners I'd probably use my non-impact driver with my non-impact version of these adapters. It's in that middle range of torque settings that I'd use this setup.

FWIW the impact driver goes up to around 140 ft-lbs, and I do realize that I would be risking overtorquing a fastener or breaking the shaft when tightening fasteners if I'm not careful and don't feather the trigger. But then that would be the case with a 3/8" impact wrench as well, so no relative disadvantage there.

 

[DFB]

Go for it people do it all the time

Weak point is the socket adapter usually after numerous impacts with heavy sockets they break but are cheap enough no one should have just only one on hand

VS impact tools with selective power modes including BT adjustable versions can be very beneficial for torqueing down fasteners as opposed to just feathering with a single range VS trigger.

 

[derosa]

Currently do this as I have a hard time justifying the cost of the actual impacts. Works decently enough with no complaints. Just used is yesterday to zip off and on the lawn mower blade; worked well enough I could just hold the blade and not have to use a lever to keep it from spinning while I pushed on a ratchet. It's also seen light duty on the car but haven't put it to extensive use. Works really nice when assembling whatever the wife brings home from Ikea or things along that line.

 

[powertrip]

Are you aware that Craftsman made a C3 19.2V 3/8 impact wrench at one time? You may still be able to find one.

 

[chrisnazzy]

I use my Milwaukee M18 impact driver w/ the exact socket adapters you linked to all the time for just about every use you referred to.

I've used it to drive lags indoors and outdoors for hanging heavier shelves and such and I use it underhood for smaller fasteners all the time. When the work involves removing lug nuts or working on suspension or brakes I move to the mid torque or high torque.

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk

 

[HaroRider]

You might want to get shorter adapters. I think black and decker makes a short set that you can get from Walmart.

 

[DerekV]

Impact drivers are very versatile and decent ones are surprisingly powerful. I use socket adapters on mine all of the time, so much so that I rarely grab the high torque impact and haven't needed a mid torque (although I'd like one, because tools). I really like having the ability to change drive sizes/types. Not the end-all-be-all, but it gets a ton of things done for me.

As mentioned, I'd recommend having at least a 2nd set of the socket adapters for back ups. Those Milwaukee ones last a long time, but like all of them, they will break eventually.

 

[Locker537]

I do this frequently, but don't expect it to break loose most fasteners. It's a fantastic time saver for running bolts and fasteners in.

 

[powertrip]

You might want to get shorter adapters. I think black and decker makes a short set that you can get from Walmart.

I did some research on this awhile back. The Black and Decker set is short but Milwaukee and APEX make probably the shortest available. I think the B&D was just a tad longer than those 2 brands.

 

[Knotgoalie]

I have four sets of those impact rated extensions in 3", 6" and 12" as well as a 3" wobble set. They all come in handy somewhere and sometime under the hood. I have the DeWALT DCF887 1/4" impact.

 

[SkinnyG]

The new breed of impact bit drivers are surprisingly powerful. I recently picked up a Milwaukee 18v Fuel driver and it's far more powerful than my Dewalt 12v max 3/8 impact (to be expected, I guess). I learned just how powerful it was last weekend when I was bolting the winch back on to my side by side and immediately stripped out one of the 3/8" bolt holes.

To answer the OP's question- the socket adapters are very practical with the newer lines of impact bit drivers.

 

[dacan23]

For shits and giggles in a big impact test I did I threw the said 1/4 hex to 3/8 socket adapter from Milwaukee you are talking about with a 17mm impact socket on my M18 Fuel gen2 hex impact and it easily removed a wheel bolt. If you are on a budget and dont want to buy so many tools it is a good option, though cheap adapters will break, the Milwaukee shockwave one is more durable.

 

[BFHtime]

I use a hex all the time. For me it has been great all around. I use 18V Makita brushless impacts. I strongly recommend a three speed selection model. The low speed is sensitive enough to use on interior plastics and the higher speed can take off properly torqued lug nuts. I will say that overly torque lug nuts like when most shops just hit it with a gun and over torque it will struggle.

Only the biggest of bolts has it had a hard time. Like chassis bolts, and some crank pulley bolts. It has been surprisingly good. Most bolts are not torque beyond what the tool can do.

IMO 1/4 or 3/8 is more for convenience with putting sockets on and off without using an adapter. There is not much of enough of a difference for me, other than I like tools. I also have a high torque impact that does not get used as much.

I have all sorts of adapters for my hex impact. I can in just about anywhere with extensions and adapters and what not. It saves a good deal of time, especially with running longer fasteners. The newer models keep on getting better and better. I have makita and I would get Makita again. I also would not get it from home depot, I would get it from a tool store. I use tools plus, which has a link on the Makita site. I would pick a store that was closest to you. I found that the impact that I bought from the tool store was better than what I bought from home depot.

There are many adapters with different lengths. I suggest get many different lengths, they come in handy. This has been a very handy set up for me and has saved me a ton of time.

 

[kctyphoon]

Get the adapters - use em.. if you like it, and you find the impact is strong enough for what you wanna do - problem solved.. if not, get an impact wrench later..

There’s nothing WRONG with using the adapters. The wrenches are just stronger usually, and more convenient for sockets. The friction ring will also help with socket retention over a ball like the adapters have.

 

[BikeRider]

Are you aware that Craftsman made a C3 19.2V 3/8 impact wrench at one time? You may still be able to find one.

Fully aware, and it's available for around $100, less if you have points and use coupons. I'm sure that it's a very good one. But as I explained above, I won't use it enough to justify getting yet another power tool in addition to my 1/2" impact wrench, driver/drill, impact driver, and power screwdriver. It's just overkill at this point for my needs and budget. If I find myself needing one and can justify it, I may get one in the future, but not now.

 

[BikeRider]

Wow, I didn't expect so many responses, and substantive ones at that. Thanks all. Looks like lots of people use these adapters and are mostly happy with the results, so it's officially a go for me.

I was actually at HD today to buy the Milwaukee 3/8" & 1/2" adapters. They come in a set along with the 1/4", but it's OOS everywhere including HD. They only had the individual adapters (but it's actually cheaper to buy them separately for some reason and I don't really need the 1/4"). But then I saw that they also had their "Husky" house brand's version of these (in a set with no option I could see to buy them individually, but it's only $8), and it looked like a decent set.

It took me a while to decide which ones to get. I even spoke to one of their tool dept guys to get his recommendation (he just gave me the pros and cons of each). I ended up getting the Husky instead of the Milwaukee. The main reason is that it comes with a lifetime warranty, whereas the Milwaukee does not. In fact there is no warranty on these. You break it you eat it. However, it also seemed a bit beefier than the Milwaukee. The one thing I didn't like about it was that it was around half an inch longer, so clearances will be tighter when doing auto work.

Does anyone have experience with the Husky adapters vs. the Milwaukees? The latter just seemed kind of, well, frail, like they'd snap with much torque. How much torque would it take to snap them? My impact driver goes up to 140 ft-lb, and I'm guessing that that would do it (not that I intend to try). Of course, I have my 1/2" 300 ft-lb impact wrench for high-torque tasks, so I doubt I'll push the driver and adapter to their limits. I guess I just have to develop a feel for when to transition to the wrench.

Incidentally, I got this set of adapters last year. They're described as "impact grade", but they're chrome and I'm skeptical if they can be used with an impact tool, even a driver:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075FFMZJ5/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Does anyone know how much torque they can handle, and if they're really impact grade?

 

[Yarpo]

I use mine all the time, I wouldn't worry about length or size of the adapter. Shorter or longer, both have pros and cons. In fact I got a 3 piece set of short ones and long ones from Titan on Amazon and I use the long ones the most.

 

[BikeRider]

The new breed of impact bit drivers are surprisingly powerful. I recently picked up a Milwaukee 18v Fuel driver and it's far more powerful than my Dewalt 12v max 3/8 impact (to be expected, I guess). I learned just how powerful it was last weekend when I was bolting the winch back on to my side by side and immediately stripped out one of the 3/8" bolt holes.

To answer the OP's question- the socket adapters are very practical with the newer lines of impact bit drivers.

How much torque do the better ones put out? Mine supposedly goes up to 1700 in-lb, which is around 140 ft-lb. That's nearly half of what my 1/2" cordless impact wrench puts out. Is that considered to be a decent number, or more in the mid-rangle of modern impact drivers?

Btw, are there many situations where an "average" impact driver driving a hex bit to install say a wood screw or lag bolt stalls, and you have to move up to a heavier-duty impact driver? And if so, is it ok to use a 1/2" impact wrench with a hex adapter (the exact reverse of the sort of adapter we're discussing here), or do you risk breaking or stripping something if you do that?

 

[DFB]

I like the Milwaukee shockwave ones best, but have actually had no problems using a bunch of others everything from ARES to Titan TSC, to ITT to unbranded ones from the lumber yard desk.

The only issues I have ever really encountered with socket adapters were with some 6 inch ones that had an extreme wobble while free spinning both an ARES brand off Amazon and also some from TSC cheap tool bin for like $5. Oddly enough my ARES 12 inch long ones spin extremely smooth. To their benefit they did send me duplicate 6 inch set to compensate.

I also have a set of wobble adapters in various lengths too (all 3/8")


OP to answer your question 1700 inch lbs is fairly middle of the road with impact drivers these days older ones were only 1400-1500 and top brand models peak out around 2000 now. IMO its actually getting to point where further power increases are probably not needed for their major function of driving screws but who knows what they'll do.

And yes people do put hex adapters on square shanks really not an optimum setup but it works if need be

 

[Farmall450]

I used to use my 1/4" w/ an adapter. Then my brother got the M12 compact fuel in 3/8" (sadly, the old brushed DeWalt was still stronger).
However, the size was handy...not to mention not having the dongle on the end, and I ended up picking up a 325# Mac 3/8" that relegated the 1/4 DeWalt back to driving screws, as it was intended.

 

[BikeRider]

2 quick followup questions.

One, is there some reason that impact tools generally don't have clutches?

And two, with hex bits that lock in (i.e. not insert or drop bits that are usually held by pressure or magnetically), are both hex sections of the shaft, the short part between the radial detent and the bit end that's inserted into the tool, and the long part between the detent and bit tip, driven by the tool, or only one of them, and if it's just one, which one? I ask because it seems less likely to break if both are driven and not just one or the other and especially the short part furthest from the tip.

 

[BikeRider]

I used to use my 1/4" w/ an adapter. Then my brother got the M12 compact fuel in 3/8" (sadly, the old brushed DeWalt was still stronger).
However, the size was handy...not to mention not having the dongle on the end, and I ended up picking up a 325# Mac 3/8" that relegated the 1/4 DeWalt back to driving screws, as it was intended.

If you do something long and often enough, you usually end up getting the right tool for it eventually instead of making do with such "hacks" as the one I asked about in this thread. No argument there. The right tool for the job and all that.

I mean, we've all done the butter knife as an ad hoc screwdriver thing at some point, until a light bulb goes off and we realize it might be wiser to get an actual screwdriver. Or, for that matter, an actual chisel instead of a screwdriver. And so on.

But, "hacks" have their place, especially when money's tight and/or the task at hand isn't that frequently performed, and it's not critical that you use the right tool even if it's preferred. However, if I do find myself using this "hack" way too often, I'll eventually get the 3/8" impact wrench. They're not that expensive and everyone loves impact tools. Well, except for the neighbors.

 

[Farmall450]

If you do something long and often enough, you usually end up getting the right tool for it eventually instead of making do with such "hacks" as the one I asked about in this thread. No argument there. The right tool for the job and all that.

I mean, we've all done the butter knife as an ad hoc screwdriver thing at some point, until a light bulb goes off and we realize it might be wiser to get an actual screwdriver. Or, for that matter, an actual chisel instead of a screwdriver. And so on.

But, "hacks" have their place, especially when money's tight and/or the task at hand isn't that frequently performed, and it's not critical that you use the right tool even if it's preferred. However, if I do find myself using this "hack" way too often, I'll eventually get the 3/8" impact wrench. They're not that expensive and everyone loves impact tools. Well, except for the neighbors.

Agreed. Although it's my most used power tool in the shop. Which is odd, considering I never used my air 3/8 IR impact prior.

 

[Farmall450]

2 quick followup questions.

One, is there some reason that impact tools generally don't have clutches?

B/c you'd burn the clutch out very quickly, and it would lose impact through it.
Your big impact probably has power settings...most do, that are electronically controlled. That is analogous to the drill's clutch.

 

[BikeRider]

Agreed. Although it's my most used power tool in the shop. Which is odd, considering I never used my air 3/8 IR impact prior.

I can see how that would be the case if you work on vehicles all the time. With cars and motorcycles I can see how a 1/4" impact wrench would also be very useful since they're even smaller and lighter and most fasteners are on the smaller side. Also a power ratchet. Alas, my budget doesn't allow for all that and my needs don't require it. Give me time, though...

 

[mfewtrail]

I use my little impact driver somewhat frequently with square drive adapters. It's a brushless ryobi rated at 2200 in-lbs(183 ft-lbs). In the real world, it's probably not doing anywhere near 183 ft-lbs though, especially through an adapter and with a decent sized socket on it. It will pull lug nuts torqued to 100 ft-lbs, so it's strong enough for a lot of automotive tasks. I've used it for pulling intakes, accessories, splash shields, t-stat housings, egr's, etc.

An actual 3/8 impact would be much more ideal because you're going to have situations where you need extensions, swivels or universal sockets, etc. and those are going to zap all the power out of these little impact drivers.

 

[DFB]

2 quick followup questions.

One, is there some reason that impact tools generally don't have clutches?

And two, with hex bits that lock in (i.e. not insert or drop bits that are usually held by pressure or magnetically), are both hex sections of the shaft, the short part between the radial detent and the bit end that's inserted into the tool, and the long part between the detent and bit tip, driven by the tool, or only one of them, and if it's just one, which one? I ask because it seems less likely to break if both are driven and not just one or the other and especially the short part furthest from the tip.

IMO impact drivers were pretty much designed to make optimum screw driving power and without stripping or camming out the screw heads so clutches weren't really considered a needed necessity .

But now with some of these new 1/4" collet impacts at max trigger rpm/ipm drivers you can set a screw so fast in softwoods you can easily overdrive them sink the head way to deep or split the wood if not using some finesse.

Hence the second round of drivers with selectable pushbutton electronic mode ranges. My newest 2853 Milwaukee has 4 ranges now one is special for self tappers, starts fast to set the screw then slows down so you don't strip the material

I also have an older brushed Milwaukee that utilizes a two speed slide switch and for most assembly work, I prefer using the mode 1 over the higher setting Its not much of a difference just a couple hundred rpm but gives better control.

As for the other part of your question the bits are just positively retained in the collet by the ball and notch, and it's the hexagonal shape on the inside of the collet keeps the bit from turning or slipping as opposed to jawed chuck like on a drill. And that shape normally runs the the entire length of the inserted shaft.

Screw driver tips will usually wear out long before a shank will ever break. Socket adapter shanks can break easier though

And the repeated spring loaded impacting is up against the bottom of the bit holder and in direct line with the bit

 

[BikeRider]

IMO impact drivers were pretty much designed to make optimum screw driving power and without stripping or camming out the screw heads so clutches weren't really considered a needed necessity .

But now with some of these new 1/4" collet impacts at max trigger rpm/ipm drivers you can set a screw so fast in softwoods you can easily overdrive them sink the head way to deep or split the wood if not using some finesse.

Hence the second round of drivers with selectable pushbutton electronic mode ranges. My newest 2853 Milwaukee has 4 ranges now one is special for self tappers, starts fast to set the screw then slows down so you don't strip the material

I also have an older brushed Milwaukee that utilizes a two speed slide switch and for most assembly work, I prefer using the mode 1 over the higher setting Its not much of a difference just a couple hundred rpm but gives better control.

As for the other part of your question the bits are just positively retained in the collet by the ball and notch, and it's the hexagonal shape on the inside of the collet keeps the bit from turning or slipping as opposed to jawed chuck like on a drill. And that shape normally runs the the entire length of the inserted shaft.

Screw driver tips will usually wear out long before a shank will ever break. Socket adapter shanks can break easier though

And the repeated spring loaded impacting is up against the bottom of the bit holder and in direct line with the bit

That's actually why I asked, because better impact tools have so much power, delivered so fast, that a clutch or clutch-like mechanism seems like a good idea as with the examples you gave.

However, your mentioning that some impacts have selectable speed settings made me think that a new generation of tools, impact and not, might eventually come out that allowed you to choose from multiple "programmed" speed settings--or even program them yourself. It would be similar to how sewing machines can be programmed.

With an impact, you could choose a program that started out fast, then slowed down to finish, with you being able to choose the initial speed, how long to hold it, what the end speed would be, and how long to reach it. Or, you could have sensors that automatically adjusted the speed, say based on the resistance of the fastener or the distance to the wood.

This might come in handy for situations where you work with different kinds and thicknesses of wood, and choose between 2" pine and 4" oak. It might even be useful with cars, say, when screwing lug nuts back on. You could choose a program that screwed the nuts on until it sensed higher resistance, when it was close to being all the way in, then it would immediately stop, so you could finish it off with a torque wrench. This would allow impacts to be safely used in both directions.

Of course I'm way off the topic here. But I started the thread so I guess I get to do that. But, I bet we see such tools in the future, as much because it might be useful as because it would allow manufacturers to create whole new product lines to boost profits. Digital technology makes this feasible from a technical perspective. Of course it would be pretty expensive. But I bet folks buy them.

 

[BikeRider]

I use my little impact driver somewhat frequently with square drive adapters. It's a brushless ryobi rated at 2200 in-lbs(183 ft-lbs). In the real world, it's probably not doing anywhere near 183 ft-lbs though, especially through an adapter and with a decent sized socket on it. It will pull lug nuts torqued to 100 ft-lbs, so it's strong enough for a lot of automotive tasks. I've used it for pulling intakes, accessories, splash shields, t-stat housings, egr's, etc.

An actual 3/8 impact would be much more ideal because you're going to have situations where you need extensions, swivels or universal sockets, etc. and those are going to zap all the power out of these little impact drivers.

After buying the Husky version of such adapters, I tried out the 1/2" adapter with the smallest 1/2" socket I have, a shallow 10mm (I don't yet have 3/8" sockets although I just ordered a Tekton set). Ironically it had a longer end to end than my 1/2" impact wrench with the same socket. So, so much for doing this to get into tight spaces. It's still lighter though, and with less than half the torque there's less chance of damaging fasteners when tightening.

Granted, the Husky adapters are 1/2" longer than the Milwaukee ones (which come in even shorter versions as part of an impact bit set that don't seem to be available as standalones), and my impact driver isn't the most compact unit out there (it's a Craftsman, decent quality but certainly not high-end or what most pros use on the job). A shorter adapter inserted into a stubby brushless driver like a Milwaukee or DeWalt would have a much shorter end to end. But people who can afford those can probably afford an actual 3/8" impact wrench.

 

[DFB]

That's actually why I asked, because better impact tools have so much power, delivered so fast, that a clutch or clutch-like mechanism seems like a good idea as with the examples you gave.

However, your mentioning that some impacts have selectable speed settings made me think that a new generation of tools, impact and not, might eventually come out that allowed you to choose from multiple "programmed" speed settings--or even program them yourself. It would be similar to how sewing machines can be programmed.

With an impact, you could choose a program that started out fast, then slowed down to finish, with you being able to choose the initial speed, how long to hold it, what the end speed would be, and how long to reach it. Or, you could have sensors that automatically adjusted the speed, say based on the resistance of the fastener or the distance to the wood.

This might come in handy for situations where you work with different kinds and thicknesses of wood, and choose between 2" pine and 4" oak. It might even be useful with cars, say, when screwing lug nuts back on. You could choose a program that screwed the nuts on until it sensed higher resistance, when it was close to being all the way in, then it would immediately stop, so you could finish it off with a torque wrench. This would allow impacts to be safely used in both directions.

Of course I'm way off the topic here. But I started the thread so I guess I get to do that. But, I bet we see such tools in the future, as much because it might be useful as because it would allow manufacturers to create whole new product lines to boost profits. Digital technology makes this feasible from a technical perspective. Of course it would be pretty expensive. But I bet folks buy them.

My M18 Milwaukee compact impact wrench has such a shutoff feature you describe. After a 1 sec impact it stops tightening the fastener... in theory anyways

Curious here now...are you not familiar with the Milwaukee ONE KEY?


The Milwaukee ONE KEY option pretty much does what you are describing ...and end user oriented power performance selection. You CAN set various rpm/ipm speeds based on trigger position and duration for a task on impacts, drills and saw cut speeds. It's wireless Blue Tooth controllable that includes a limited distance locator feature for the tool thru the App which also allows for logging tool inventory and personal job site assignment.

It still relatively new concept and for most layman they don't find the need for having it, but there is a lot of future promise with the option and many people hope for the ability to dial in a specific achievable torque spec on machine thread fasteners and most especially lug nuts.

Trouble is there a lot a variable with different fastener sizing, thread coarseness, friction etc, so end results can only be so specific. Though one notable feature is repeatability thru a timed duration of both speed and impact while tightening numerous similar sized fasteners such as wheel lug bolts/nuts or in construction assembly using threaded fasteners.

 

[BikeRider]

My M18 Milwaukee compact impact wrench has such a shutoff feature you describe. After a 1 sec impact it stops tightening the fastener... in theory anyways

Curious here now...are you not familiar with the Milwaukee ONE KEY?


The Milwaukee ONE KEY option pretty much does what you are describing ...and end user oriented power performance selection. You CAN set various rpm/ipm speeds based on trigger position and duration for a task on impacts, drills and saw cut speeds. It's wireless Blue Tooth controllable that includes a limited distance locator feature for the tool thru the App which also allows for logging tool inventory and personal job site assignment.

It still relatively new concept and for most layman they don't find the need for having it, but there is a lot of future promise with the option and many people hope for the ability to dial in a specific achievable torque spec on machine thread fasteners and most especially lug nuts.

Trouble is there a lot a variable with different fastener sizing, thread coarseness, friction etc, so end results can only be so specific. Though one notable feature is repeatability thru a timed duration of both speed and impact while tightening numerous similar sized fasteners such as wheel lug bolts/nuts or in construction assembly using threaded fasteners.

I'm pretty new to higher-end power tools and especially the latest technology they come with, so I didn't know about this feature. Glad to hear that it's becoming available, and hopefully it'll become a mainstream feature and trickle down to the mid and even low-end range.

A "dumb" version, by which I mean without sensor feedback, shouldn't be too hard to implement or significantly drive up tool costs. You're just adding the ability to select one or more power settings for various time intervals, via PWM and a timer, without adapting the power output based on continuous mechanical resistance feedback. But even such a "dumb" version could be very useful, by allowing the user to fine-tune power output and set up or select among programmed power sequences.

Add sensors and feedback and the corresponding software with maybe some AI, and you could really dial in some precision, avoiding splitting wood, driving a fastener in too deep or stripping a bolt head. It would amount to a "smart clutch" that's more electronic than mechanical, as well as a distance sensor to install a fastener at a desired point of insertion.

You might even be able to add a torque reading feature, removing the need for a separate mechanical torque wrench (or mechanical clutch). Just imagine how much time that would save and how many issues could be avoided due to under or overtorqueing. I bet that a very large percentage of fasteners are rarely torqued down properly, by people who either don't own torque wrenches or are too lazy to use them or think doing it by "feel" is ok.

If this is all available right now with higher-end tools, then that's great, but it should eventually be more broadly available, even at the low-end, at least with the "dumb" features. I haven't see it at the "affordable" end of the cost spectrum (which is where I buy tools).

 

[DFB]

Milwaukee already has "electronic clutches" on a few tools, the RA (right angle) M12 drill is one example. Just spin a thumbwheel dial and you adjust depth of your screw set.


I believe the lastest version of M18 Fuel drill is also electronically controlled clutch now

 

[BikeRider]

Milwaukee already has "electronic clutches" on a few tools, the RA (right angle) M12 drill is one example. Just spin a thumbwheel dial and you adjust depth of your screw set.

I believe the lastest version of M18 Fuel drill is also electronically controlled clutch now

Nice, but eventually this needs to and I believe will trickle down to more affordable tools that the rest of us can afford and justify buying. In principle it's not even necessarily that difficult to implement, although of course getting it right is a whole other matter (but they've got big R&D budgets and the potential for increased profits would justify the costs). It would revolutionize tools and give manufacturers a huge boost in sales--and amateurs like me fresh new bragging rights.

 

[patchap]

I use a 3/8 adapter in my Ridgid brushless driver.
The Milwaukee adapters are very short,seem to hold up.

 

[Farmall450]

Nice, but eventually this needs to and I believe will trickle down to more affordable tools that the rest of us can afford and justify buying. In principle it's not even necessarily that difficult to implement, although of course getting it right is a whole other matter (but they've got big R&D budgets and the potential for increased profits would justify the costs). It would revolutionize tools and give manufacturers a huge boost in sales--and amateurs like me fresh new bragging rights.

Eh, I don't really see the need. The trigger isn't just an on/off switch.

 

[BFHtime]

Get the adapters - use em.. if you like it, and you find the impact is strong enough for what you wanna do - problem solved.. if not, get an impact wrench later..

There’s nothing WRONG with using the adapters. The wrenches are just stronger usually, and more convenient for sockets. The friction ring will also help with socket retention over a ball like the adapters have.

There are locking adapters. Snap-On makes them, but they are us made, I got them from SK which are also US made.

 

[DFB]

I find the ball adapters very secure when using impact sockets and lined up the with pin hole of the socket

 

[BFHtime]

I find them secure even when the ball does not line up with the hole.

 

[Farmall450]

I find them secure even when the ball does not line up with the hole.

^^^^^
I've had no issues.

 

[DFB]

I find them secure even when the ball does not line up with the hole.