So here's the deal. I have 1545ish sqft to build my shop. But I'm having a tough time figuring out the dimensions it should be. I could go with 40x38 or 43x36. Either way i know i want the longer wall to be the side with the bay doors. Lately I've been thinking the wider shorter bay is better than skinny long bays. I loose 2' in both dimensions for the walls. One bay will have a 2 post lift so I need a 14x26 area for that. Which would leave me 8' of working space in front of that rack area with the 36' deep building and then would leave me with 2 bays 13.5' wide. Any insight?
Struggling on deciding shop dimensions.
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RVDan
Well-known member
It really depends how you use your shop.
Do you need enough room in front of the vehicle to move an engine hoist or is it more important that you’re able to walk around the vehicle with both doors open.
Do you need enough room in front of the vehicle to move an engine hoist or is it more important that you’re able to walk around the vehicle with both doors open.
JamesW84
Well-known member
many recommend multiples of 4 since sheet goods, etc often comes in 4 or 8 ft lengths. If you get much snow, with the doors on the sloped-roof end, snow will fall in front of your doors.
finn
Well-known member
If you live in snow county, and plan a metal roof, I would seriously consider gable end doors rather than eave side doors.
Other than that, two feet one way or another wouldn’t mean much to me on that sized building. Both options are big enough for a lift, assuming you have enough wall height to clear a vehicle on the lift when you open the bay door.
Even numbers ore often preferred, but shorter trusses are probably cheaper, and sheathing isn’t significantly different either way, in my opinion.
Other than that, two feet one way or another wouldn’t mean much to me on that sized building. Both options are big enough for a lift, assuming you have enough wall height to clear a vehicle on the lift when you open the bay door.
Even numbers ore often preferred, but shorter trusses are probably cheaper, and sheathing isn’t significantly different either way, in my opinion.
astroracer
Well-known member
30 x 52 is 1560sgft. 30' is plenty wide for a hoist with lots of room to work around the front AND fully open the OH door.
30' wide lets you use a residential 32' truss which will give you a 1' overhang. I would talk to a builder and get their input on cost and what is more efficient.
Go 12' sidewalls and ask about loft or attic trusses while you are pricing. The open span trusses cost a bit more but that is cheap sq. footage and a lot of storage.
Keep your OH doors at least 4' off the inside walls. The door with the hoist, keep that one 6' off the wall. This is room to work and room for a bench or moving equipment around the car while on the hoist.
Mark
30' wide lets you use a residential 32' truss which will give you a 1' overhang. I would talk to a builder and get their input on cost and what is more efficient.
Go 12' sidewalls and ask about loft or attic trusses while you are pricing. The open span trusses cost a bit more but that is cheap sq. footage and a lot of storage.
Keep your OH doors at least 4' off the inside walls. The door with the hoist, keep that one 6' off the wall. This is room to work and room for a bench or moving equipment around the car while on the hoist.
Mark
Mine's 32X48 (1536sqft). 32 is plenty deep enough for any normal vehicle with room to spare on both ends, and the added width gives me room for lift posts as well as a "shop" area that's separate from the parking area so that I'm not forced to do smaller jobs right next to vehicles. These dimensions will also reduce waste/expense during construction with 4 or 8 ft goods.
readhead
Well-known member
What type of construction are you considering? You don’t show a location but as someone already mentioned doors on the eave side should be a looked at carefully. In general length is less expensive than width. Roof construction is the most expensive part of the frame be it wood or steel.
The building will be 12" block construction with a wood framed and metal sheeted roof. Inside walls will be 12'6"-13' (depends on the height of finished floor). There isn't much contractor in the equation. I'm a union bricklayer so I (and guys from work) will be handling all of the masonry. The laborers and finisher from work will be handling the concrete work. The neighbor owns an excavation company and will be handling all the dirt wor. k Roof framing is really as easy as setting trusses and nailing on purlins. I've got a couple carpenter buddies to help with that. I'll probably hire a local pole barn builder to sheet the roof. I'm sure I can do it but by the time I rent a lift and it'll take me longer than it takes them its probably not worth it. They can whip it out in a few hours. It would most likely take me a few days. The shop will be used for automotive, and metal fab purposes. My plan was to not put anything on the side walls. Which is why i was looking for a little more depth. The plan is also to keep pretty much everything mobile inside the building so I have control over what's where and I'm able to make room in areas when I need it or pack everything away in the front of a bay or two when I'm not using it. As far as having eve side doors. That I'm not too worried about. We honestly don't get much snow around here anymore. Bitter cold yes but not really snow. And if it does snow and pile a little in front of the door and I REALLY need to get something in or out I own a tractor with a bucket. I also already have one 18x10 insulated bay door. And I was planning a 12x10 or 10x10 for the lift bay.
The building will be 12" block construction with a wood framed and metal sheeted roof. Inside walls will be 12'6"-13' (depends on the height of finished floor). There isn't much contractor in the equation. I'm a union bricklayer so I (and guys from work) will be handling all of the masonry. The laborers and finisher from work will be handling the concrete work. The neighbor owns an excavation company and will be handling all the dirt wor. k Roof framing is really as easy as setting trusses and nailing on purlins. I've got a couple carpenter buddies to help with that. I'll probably hire a local pole barn builder to sheet the roof. I'm sure I can do it but by the time I rent a lift and it'll take me longer than it takes them its probably not worth it. They can whip it out in a few hours. It would most likely take me a few days. The shop will be used for automotive, and metal fab purposes. My plan was to not put anything on the side walls. Which is why i was looking for a little more depth. The plan is also to keep pretty much everything mobile inside the building so I have control over what's where and I'm able to make room in areas when I need it or pack everything away in the front of a bay or two when I'm not using it. As far as having eve side doors. That I'm not too worried about. We honestly don't get much snow around here anymore. Bitter cold yes but not really snow. And if it does snow and pile a little in front of the door and I REALLY need to get something in or out I own a tractor with a bucket. I also already have one 18x10 insulated bay door. And I was planning a 12x10 or 10x10 for the lift bay.
I have a gantry crane
DetachedGarage
Well-known member
rsanter
Well-known member
How do you want to store stuff?
What are you working on?
What kind of work?
Etc
What are you working on?
What kind of work?
Etc
30' isnt quite deep enough. The shop I'm in now is 28'6" deep and a ext cab long bed is a squeeze to work on with my tool box on the front wall. I haven't even tried getting my crew cab long bed dually in there. I'd barely have room to open the drawers
Anything that's on the floor will be on casters. That way I can change the layout as I see fit what whatever i happen to be doing. As far as what I'm working on. Coule be anything from 70cc ATCs all the way up to my jeep based rock buggy or my crew cab long bed dually tow rig, and everything in between. Kind of work is automotive and metal fabrication.
SALIV8
Well-known member
I too struggled with my shop dimensions.
I suggest getting graph paper and pencils and start setting up some different scenarios and try to figure out exactly what you are going to use the shop for.
Once you figure out what your exact needs are it seems to help with the drawings and locations of doors, etc.
I suggest getting graph paper and pencils and start setting up some different scenarios and try to figure out exactly what you are going to use the shop for.
Once you figure out what your exact needs are it seems to help with the drawings and locations of doors, etc.
TractorJeff
Well-known member
Last building I built, I put all the stuff that will be parked there in position, then some boards and stakes to represent accessory items. Then moved the string walls till I was sure I liked the layout.
Its not going to be the same things parked in there. Also its not just for parking. Its going to be an active home shop
bad_idea
Well-known member
I suggest a 30' depth and then as wide as you can go. Much deeper than that will be of little value, wasted space. A crew cab dually is only 22' long. With everything on wheels, it would be simple to clear that bay out for work on the big truck.
JamesW84
Well-known member
Remember the width of the block walls will reduce your inside space, so are you talking inside or outside dimension? I went 32 wide and 64 long so I could easily pull a truck with trailer in and not have to back it in and drop it. How often I'll need that feature is debatable, but I have it!
I mentioned that my inside dimensions will be minus 2'.
No boats. But i have a few trailers. 32' gooseneck, 24' enclosed, and a 22' car trailer. The plan is an open but covered section off the back to park those under. But then again with a building 32' deep i really won't be able to hide the gooseneck behind the building. I'll probably just park it next to the building. Its just rain and snow...