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Get along better with your small gas engine

Warrenator

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May 31, 2008
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781
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Newberg, OR
My wife was out working with a gas powered irrigation pump, I happened to walk by and she was just yanking on the starter cord, completely worn out and frustrated and upset. I took a quick look at it, flipped the ignition switch to "On," and it started on the first pull. It is easy for me because I've spent a lot of my life working with machines but not everyone has, so I wrote this little treatise on gas engines for her. Hopefully it will help someone else too.

_____________


I thought it might be helpful to share the way I think about engines in general. Once one understands the way our pal, the internal combustion engine, goes about his day I think one can help him get the things he needs so he can fulfill his dream of providing you with motive power.

It all starts with FIRE. Prometheus didn't just risk the wrath of the gods to keep us warm and cook our food, but also to harness the life force of dinosaurs long gone from this earth to do useful work for us. An external combustion engine uses fire to expand something, like water is expanded into steam. The steam engine then harnesses that energy by driving a piston back and forth, which can be turned into rotary motion by a crankshaft. An Internal combustion engine does the same thing, except it uses Fire to expand Air inside the engine, which drives the piston back and forth, again turned into rotary motion by the crankshaft.

So we know we need FIRE. There are three things needed to have fire; Air, Fuel, and Heat. Take away one item and fire cannot occur. (We call this the Fire Triangle: Fuel, Air, Heat) In the internal combustion engine Fuel is gasoline. Heat is a spark provided by our ignition system. Air is provided by the piston moving back and forth in the cylinder.

So when we start a gasoline engine, we need to give it Fuel by having the gas supply turned on to the carburetor. We have Heat (Spark) by turning on the ignition system. We need to give it air by moving the piston up and down, either by electric starter motor or pulling a rope around the end of the crankshaft.

But of course each engine has a particular personality. One of these quirks is that engines don't like a lean mixture of fuel when they are cold. Hence the "Choke" on a carburetor is devised so that less air can get into the engine but more fuel, which is a richer mixture. Once the engine is running it gradually warms up and then can burn a leaner mixture, and needs more air, so we slowly open the choke (unhelpfully labeled "Start" for a rich mixture and "Run" for a lean mixture)

Choke, Throttle. Sounds a bit violent, doesn't it? The choke adjusts the mixture. the throttle adjusts the amount of air the engine can get. Closed throttle, or Turtle setting, very little air can get in. Of course it isn't all the way closed, some air gets through the carburetor, the amount can be adjusted to set the idle speed. Fully open, or Bunny, allows as much air to flow through the carburetor into the engine as possible, resulting in max power and speed.

Lovely. Our friend the engine has been given Fuel, Heat, and Air, and is now merrily spinning away providing us with power and noise and heat and precious carbon monoxide. How nice. But it is time for the engine to go back to sleep. So we can stop this merry-go-round by removing the Fire that makes it all go. Can we remove the air? Yes, by closing the throttle there is less air and the engine slows down, we could fully stop it if we wanted by removing all the air but the mechanism is difficult to access because of the air filter and so on but absolutely if we blocked the air intake with a big cork the engine would stop. Fuel? Yes, we can stop the engine this way by shutting off the fuel supply, or running it out of gas. If the engine is to be stored away for a while it is good to run the carburetor dry because gasoline is not completely pure, and when leftover gas is left in the carburetor it slowly evaporates and leaves a gummy residue that can clog the various jets and tubes inside the mechanism. Heat? Yes, that is the best and most used way to turn the engine off, just remove the Spark with the ignition switch, and the fire stops burning, the engine stops.

So when I approach an engine I ask myself what does it need to go? Fuel, Spark, Air. I make sure the fuel is on and set to a good mixture for conditions, warm or cold. Spark I get from turning the ignition on. Air I get from spinning the engine.

So I set it up, and spin the engine. Nothing. That's OK. The fuel/Air mixture is drawn from the carburetor into the engine combustion chamber by the pumping action of the piston. Might need a few tries to get enough to support combustion. Pull, pull. Still nothing. Maybe the mixture isn't perfect for conditions. Adjust it slightly and try again. Pull, pull. Not a cough. Now I'm puzzled. Check and confirm - Fuel, Spark, Air. Is there gas in the tank, and the valve turned to on? Is the ignition turned on? Adjust the carb settings and try again. Ah, there it goes. It was just being cold blooded. Poor baby, sometimes we're cranky in the morning, eh? We will slowly adjust your carburetor settings as you warm up, then you'll be ready to work.

If there is still no signs of life from the engine, time to have a friendly motor expert have a peek. They will do the same Fire Triangle checks you just did, but on a more granular level. For example, they will sniff the exhaust to smell if gas is getting through the motor, or use an alternate fuel source like a spray can of starting fluid (just ether in a can) to see if they can get the engine to run that way. They will remove the spark plug with a wrench and see if they are getting a spark. They will use a pressure gauge to see if the engine is pumping air properly. Nothing magical about it, just access to some tools and a certain willingness to take things apart.

So there you go. I hope this helps you to better get along with your small engines you might find around the farm. For the purposes of this discussion I have ignored such machines as the diesel engine and fuel injected, electronically ignited lawnmowers. And two-stroke engines such as the ones in leaf blowers and chainsaws, which are roughly the same but also like to have their gas mixed with a special oil to keep the spinny bits inside happy.
 
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mv213

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Sep 29, 2014
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Dallas, OR (the OTHER "Big D")
Also: A gram of prevention is worth a kilo of cure. Don’t store small engines for more than a couple of weeks with gas in the carb and tank. Use ethanol free gas if you have a source for it.

I just used my Honda powered pressure washer for the first time in 5 years and it started on the third pull. I had run it clear out of gas when I stored it and put pump preservative in the pump.
 

byoungblood

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Apr 6, 2011
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Location
Berryville, VA
Running ethanol free gas, and running them dry at the end of the season seems to be the best way to keep them running well. On the other hand, my lawn tractor is fussy to start 1st time I run it every year, after that it usually starts fairly quickly. It has been that way since year 2 of ownership, and it is about 8 years old now.
 
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Warrenator

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May 31, 2008
Messages
781
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Newberg, OR
Maui, my wife was grateful. She understands that she "has not way" with engines, or reading a map, or some other things in life. However, she is the best horse trainer I know, a fabulous artist, a wonderful cook, and my best friend. Our differences make us a better team; she fills in the gaps in life that I cannot, and I try to help her do the things that she has trouble with.
 

Maui

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Upstate NY
It looks like it was well written and geared for a woman who does not understand how an internal combustion engine works. I’m glad that your wife was grateful. But I can also imagine some women becoming upset when handed an explanation like this because they might view it as though they are being talked down to by the “how engines work for dummies” explanation. I like the way you wrote it, and hope most women would react the way that your wife did.

Maui
 
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Warrenator

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Messages
781
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Newberg, OR
Definitely it is an engines for dummies sort of thing. But while I wrote it for my wife specifically, I think there are plenty of people out there who don't know or care how an engine works, until it won't work for them, then they just want to know enough to make it go.

And also yes I buy the ethanol free gas as well especially if something isn't used much.
 

kelpaso1

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Sep 28, 2009
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New Brunswick
Running ethanol free gas, and running them dry at the end of the season seems to be the best way to keep them running well. On the other hand, my lawn tractor is fussy to start 1st time I run it every year, after that it usually starts fairly quickly. It has been that way since year 2 of ownership, and it is about 8 years old now.

My cub cadet is the same. The problem is, if you run it dry at the end of the season and the tank is in the back and a fuel pump on the engine (not gravity fed) the pump can have a hard time pumping the fuel to the carb at cranking speeds. First start of the year I get a syringe full of gas and pop the air filter off and shoot some gas into the throat of the intake manifold. After it's running I keep squiring fuel till it stays running on it's own. Those fuel pumps don't seem to pump great at cranking speeds and require the higher rpm's of a running engine to pump well enough.
 

driz

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Joined
May 22, 2008
Messages
701
Location
Northern NY
Tiny inline shut offs are now first cheap on EBay by the bag full. So are mini fuel filters. Ethanol gas even if they are rated for it is poison left sitting in the carb.


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B_Bimmer

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May 7, 2015
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Eastern Iowa
Half those fuel shutoffs are cheap chinese junk. I bought ten thinking they would be nice to have around and went through 6 before I got one that didn't leak all around the shutoff.
 

driz

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May 22, 2008
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Northern NY
Mine have all been fine. Oh well you know the deal with China. Hit n miss. Still , when you buy the OEM for 4x as much it’s still from you know where..


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Jimmyb

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Mar 5, 2019
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63755
I know I am going to catch backlash for this out going to say it anyways. Ethanol has been in gas since the 70s and no one was complaining about it hurting small engines then. Small engine companies are just using ethanol as their latest excuses of their down graded quality in parts. They also use it to sell their own fuel and make money off it.
 

All

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Mar 28, 2013
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607
I'm fairly certain my wife would have been quite heated at all that hot air, and would have crumpled up that letter and used it as fuel in her next fire.
 

Mandres

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mansplaining.jpg
 

Mechanical Noise

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I know I am going to catch backlash for this out going to say it anyways. Ethanol has been in gas since the 70s and no one was complaining about it hurting small engines then. Small engine companies are just using ethanol as their latest excuses of their down graded quality in parts. They also use it to sell their own fuel and make money off it.

After last fall's last mowing, I parked the mower in it's usual place with no extra preparation. It had about a quarter tank of ethanol gas. About six weeks ago, I topped off the tank with last year's gas and it started on the first pull and has continued to run well since then.

And that's how most people do it.
 
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theoldwizard1

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SE MI
Running ethanol free gas, and running them dry at the end of the season seems to be the best way to keep them running well.

I call BS on the first half of your statement ! I run all of my engines on E10, because their is no where withing 20 miles I can by E00 and it is RIDICULOUSLY priced. FRESH fuel is the key ! Not leaving fuel in some part of the system where it can dry up between season.

I have a 5000W generator. I pull it out every 3-6 months and "exercise" it. Needless to say, the tank never gets close to empty (yes, I run the bowl dry ever time). After way to many years, I took a flash light and looked in the tank. Really nasty looking stuff floating around in there ! It took me several hours to remove the tank, drain it, flush it and re-install.

My EFI 115 HP outboard gave me some issues a few years back. My fault. I never drained the tank at the end of the season and let the fuel sit. I found out later, the small internal filter/water separator is a plastic "bowl" that hold a couple of ounces of fuel. You can NOT "run it dry" ! Either remove and empty it at the end of the season, or remove and clean at the beginning.
 

theoldwizard1

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I know I am going to catch backlash for this out going to say it anyways. Ethanol has been in gas since the 70s and no one was complaining about it hurting small engines then. Small engine companies are just using ethanol as their latest excuses of their down graded quality in parts.
Not anymore !

Toro has had a 2-3 year "starts on the first or second pull" guarantee for a number of years.

They also use it to sell their own fuel and make money off it.
"there is a sucker born every minute !"
 

mmb617

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PA
I'm probably going to jinx myself by saying this but I have two push mowers, a lawn tractor and a snowblower, all of which are at least 20 years old, and I never have much trouble starting any of them.

I do not run the tanks dry before storage and they all use pump gas which has ethanol in it. At the beginning of a new season I just top off the gas tank and fire them up.

My friend who has much newer equipment is constantly having problems starting his mowers or snowblower at the beginning of each season and usually winds up taking them to a shop. Which makes me wonder if the real problem is with the newer stuff being designed to run so lean in order to meet emissions standards that even the tiniest piece of debris anywhere in the fuel system keeps them from running.

Although I can't say I've experienced problems running 5%-10% ethanol fuel in my 4 stroke equipment, I wouldn't run it in any 2 stroke engine. The owner of the shop that used to service all our chain saws at work explained what the problem was with that when ethanol fuels first became common in our area.
 

Mandres

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I'm probably going to jinx myself by saying this but I have two push mowers, a lawn tractor and a snowblower, all of which are at least 20 years old, and I never have much trouble starting any of them.

I do not run the tanks dry before storage and they all use pump gas which has ethanol in it. At the beginning of a new season I just top off the gas tank and fire them up.

My friend who has much newer equipment is constantly having problems starting his mowers or snowblower at the beginning of each season and usually winds up taking them to a shop. Which makes me wonder if the real problem is with the newer stuff being designed to run so lean in order to meet emissions standards that even the tiniest piece of debris anywhere in the fuel system keeps them from running.

Although I can't say I've experienced problems running 5%-10% ethanol fuel in my 4 stroke equipment, I wouldn't run it in any 2 stroke engine. The owner of the shop that used to service all our chain saws at work explained what the problem was with that when ethanol fuels first became common in our area.
That would make sense. I wouldn't be surprised if a lot of the carbs today are made of cheaper plastic and rubber as well that might not hold up.
 

poppinjohnnies

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Dec 10, 2014
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342
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Kansas
I store mine with aviation gas in the tank. it doesn't go bad, and it is ethanol free. We had tornadoes this week and our house was without power for a couple of days. i brought out my old coleman generator to cool the fridge back down. I hadn't used it for 1.5 years, but when I fired it up Tuesday afternoon, it started on the 2nd pull and ran like a top. Av gas is the ticket!
 

theoldwizard1

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My friend who has much newer equipment is constantly having problems starting his mowers or snowblower at the beginning of each season and usually winds up taking them to a shop. Which makes me wonder if the real problem is with the newer stuff being designed to run so lean in order to meet emissions standards that even the tiniest piece of debris anywhere in the fuel system keeps them from running.
YES !

It has been a long time, but adjustable high and low speed mixture screws have not been on small engines carbs for a long time (or they are purposely blocked from adjustment).

I have been "messing" with small engines for over 30 years and one thing finally hit home a couple of years ago. Most (all?) carbs have 2 fuel "circuits", a high/main speed and a low/idle speed. The low/idle fuel circuit is sometimes (and I believe more correctly) the PRIMARY circuit.

FUEL IS ALWAYS FLOWING THROUGH THE PRIMARY JET ! If that is a new idea, let that sink in.

The most common problem on small engines (which are designed to run near max RPM all of the time) is oscillating engine speed. This is almost ALWAYS caused by a clogged primary circuit/jet. A simple poke with a stiff fine wire is usually all it takes to clear the blockage. Know WHERE to poke is the issue as the location of the primary circuit and fixed jet is different for different carbs.

The most common design for small engine carbs uses the bowl nut as the main jet. Fuel passes up the tube it screws into, through an "emulsion tube" and then into the throat of the carb.
 

American Locomotive

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Rhode Island
I aggressively neglect all of my small engines, and they rarely cause me trouble. I always leave them full of gas over the winter, use normal ethanol pump gas, and never use fuel stabilizer.

About the only thing I do is change the oil and clean the occasional mouse-nest out of the cooling fins.
 

gearhead1

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NC
I only use ethanol free gas with stabil and is rare for me to,have a problem. Everything starts in the spring. Chainsaws start after 2 plus years.
 

johninct

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running ethanol free gas, and running them dry at the end of the season seems to be the best way to keep them running well. On the other hand, my lawn tractor is fussy to start 1st time i run it every year, after that it usually starts fairly quickly. It has been that way since year 2 of ownership, and it is about 8 years old now.

yes!!!
 

timdgsr

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Birmingham, AL
I use ethanol free gas and mix with stabilizer while pumping.

My push mower is 9 years old, weed eater is 8, riding mower is 11.
 

theoldwizard1

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SE MI
I use ethanol free gas and mix with stabilizer while pumping.

My push mower is 9 years old, weed eater is 8, riding mower is 11.

E10, no stabilizer. I have you beat on the first 2. No rider. Only had to pull the carb once for cleaning.
 

Treeman

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Jan 4, 2008
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Michigan
timdgsr = Alabama
theoldwizrd1 = Michigan

People often forget that comparing vehicle battery life and fuel storage problems between hot and cool climates is like apples and oranges.

Having said that, I sometimes wonder if some regions simply have very bad fuel quality, based on the comments about problems with E10 fuel.
 

b7labelle

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Oct 14, 2012
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Michigan
So when is a good time to retire a carb from a mower? I just finished cleaning mine up and there is white zinc oxide forming all over the damn thing. From what I gather to stop that, I have to electroplate the zinc..or buy a new carb that has a new coating
 

JRC3

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Jun 30, 2014
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Southwestern OH
I found out a station I drive by all the time carries and bought some 100% ethanol free (EF) gas the other day. It was 2.99 and regular gas was 2.86. The EF was also 91 octane...I thought ethanol gas was supposed to be cheaper to make. :confused:

For me it's just too easy to switch over and run EF in all my small engines.
 

JRC3

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So when is a good time to retire a carb from a mower? I just finished cleaning mine up and there is white zinc oxide forming all over the damn thing. From what I gather to stop that, I have to electroplate the zinc..or buy a new carb that has a new coating

Checkout the ebay carb thread.
 
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