3/8 or 1/2 inch ratchet and sockets

[D_o_S]

Hiya,

I have a garage equipped for small stuff atm (i.e. home repair, bike repair etc) and I am looking into getting into car maintenance...

One thing that has me puzzled is 3/8 and 1/2 ratchets and sockets...

Is there any need for both? I.e. if I have one, will I ever need the other? Which way is the way to go, when starting out?

I.e. should I buy a 3/8 set and and wrench with that 99% of the time, and just use the 1/2 for really big things from time to time?

Thanks.

 

[tutti57]

Most engine work will be in the 1/4" and 3/8" drive range. You'll see more 1/2" for chassis type of work. Bigger stuff.

What type of work do you plan on doing?

I'd look into getting something like the Mountain ratcheting wrench set. You can do a hell of a variety of jobs with them for $120ish 8-19mm.

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[ET160]

For most things 3/8 does fine. You need 1/2 when you need more torque, for brake calipers, suspension parts, etc.

 

[xin]

You are going to need both and 1/4 to. Plus, you will need 12 points as tight quarter areas 6 points are not going to work very well.

 

[Jrboulder]

I use 1/2" whenever possible.

 

[ku17]

It is best to start with 3/8 unless you know for sure that you will primarily be coming across large fasteners. I have a 3/4 ton pickup so I use 1/2 and 3/4 drive fairly often. For everything non-automotive, I reach for 3/8 drive first.

 

[ChrisLS8]

I prefer long 3/8 if I use a ratchet. I use my M12 stubby whenever possible

 

[Mr_B]

Socket on rail sets are that cheap just buy both .
For auto repair you going need both & being DIY anything like oem or gearwrench or tekton going be more than suitable.
Extensions and ratchets pretty cheap too . Some of the HF Pitts Pro ratchets worth having using coupon discount and also the warranty nice and easy if you close to a branch .

 

[ChevyEFI]

If you have a wide range of 1/4" stuff, up to 15mm, and you have a wide range of 1/2" stuff, down to 10mm, you will largely forget about 3/8" unless a a bit socket or specialty socket requires it.

When it comes to fitting in tight places, at strange angles, underhood, then you'll find there's nothing like too many options.

 

[Rickster]

You'll need both. Get a good full set of 3/8dr.... I find those get the most work out my home toolbox. Not so much use on the 1/2dr but sometimes the situation calls for the beefier 1/2dr set-up.

 

[techieman33]

I'll vote for both as well. If I was starting over now I'd probably buy 1/4" and 3/8" in chrome and 1/2" impact sockets.

 

[tym]

I use 1/4" and 3/8" most of the time, but do break out the 1/2" for lug nuts and suspension work. Sometimes you need the big torque.

 

[theoldwizard1]

I use 1/4" and 3/8" most of the time, but do break out the 1/2" for lug nuts and suspension work. Sometimes you need the big torque.

Same, but that is very seldom ! Buy a set of "flip" lug nut sockets, a HF 25" breaker bar and a decent torque wrench. Send the suspension work to a front end shop.

 

[Yarpo]

Depending on the projects you want to take on you'll need both, and you'll want 1/4" too. I use 1/4 and 1/2 more than 3/8 chrome, but I use 3/8" semi deep impacts a bunch on my cordless ratchets/impacts

 

[thwaller]

You will want a solid set of 3/8 drive sockets. If you are doing general mechanic work, that will cover you for most things. With your wrenches, you should cover 6mm to 19mm, and for imperial, 1/4 to 1 inch. Keep in mind that O2 sensors are 22mm / 7/8 inch. Having a 22mm wrench is often helpful with the 7/8.

As others mentioned, suspension is a different story, but is also not beginner stuff. Suspension almost requires 1/2 drive. Yes, you can get by with 3/8 sometimes but you run into the statement of "the right tool for the job". It is important to remember that 3/8 drive can bring you to approx 100 ft-lb. Beyond that, and even a bit before, you really should be using the 1/2 drive.

Back in the day, there was no 3/8 drive, you had the 1/4 and the 1/2, plus the 3/4 for big stuff. That said, the 3/8 will do most things. I would get 1/2 before I get 1/4 drive, and there is little need for 3/4+ drive anymore assuming you work on regular cars and trucks.

In my opinion, go to Tekton. They have great tools at great prices, especially for a DIY like yourself. I would avoid Craftsman, Kobalt and most Husky, just not worth the price paid. I also find that my 6 point sockets are used over my 12 point. I would start with the 6's and add the 12's later.

 

[Citation]

To work on my cars I use primarily 3/8 and 1/4 drive. 1/2 is typically used only when I'm dealing with a very reluctant bolt and I happen to need something like a 19mm deep and my 19mm deep happens to be my impact sockets. Since getting a long handled 3/8 drive I have even less reason to reach for a 1/2. Still, I wouldn't want to be without those sockets but I don't use them much and I wouldn't worry about getting that "nice" 1/2 ratchet.

 

[Legion Prime]

You are going to need both and 1/4 to. Plus, you will need 12 points as tight quarter areas 6 points are not going to work very well.

Wait, what? How are 6 points not going to work?

 

[Tul]

For tight spaces, how about boxed-end ratcheting wrenches?

 

[techieman33]

Wait, what? How are 6 points not going to work?

I think they're just saying that it'll be easier to get the socket onto the nut or bolt with 12 point sockets. When you only have a few degrees of swing it can take a couple tries to get a 6 point socket on. I don't really think it's worth it to buy 12 point for those few occasions though unless your running into it a lot. Now if you have bolts that require a 12 point socket that's a different matter.

 

[Citation]

I have a mix of 6 and 12pt. The time it made a difference? Well my Toyota head bolts were 12pt so 6 wouldn't have worked.

 

[NUTTSGT]

Sooner or later, you'll need both. I'd start with the 3/8" drive if you have none and buy the 1/2" drive stuff when you need it or buy yourself a decent tool assortment.

 

[tutti57]

The only time I use 12 point sockets is when the bolt is rusty and stripped and I have to hammer on the wrong size for it to bite. Other than that I find them worthless besides the rare situation where the bolt is a 12 point head. I understand their purpose on box end wrenches but nothing that ratchets, especially with fine toothed tools.

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[Mr_B]

For the small price of couple rails of sockets, extension set, a couple ratchets and breaker bar it not worth struggling without it .
You really not going cover usual maintenance and repair work without some level of 1/2" drive coverage .
If price concern hold out for deals, gearwrench socket rail set often go half price or buy1get1free, for home gamer the pitts pro ratchets do the job, breaker bar good enough too (self QC best of the bunch in shop before go to tills and use the best percent discount voucher you can find and bring family and have an item each )
Pretty decent sockets work out like 2-3 bucks each in rail sets, oem decent and cheap .
If have or intend have impact then going impact sockets over chrome would be good way start, again decent taiwan crv impacts work out 2-3 bucks a socket and plenty decent sets on rails or blow mould boxes can be had online .

Tekton chrome stuff not bad if want spend the price, their impacts are poor design and pretty easy get off brand taiwan way better than even sunex imo ....

 

[doohan]

I’m confused by your Tekton impact socket comment?

 

[Mr_B]

I’m confused by your Tekton impact socket comment?

They very basic design of tapered nose, etched markings which useless long term on impacts, no stepped shoulder and o ring groove which makes them far more usable (o ring groove does aid handling massively even though purpose is pin retain ring). you can get better design more usable crv taiwan impacts for same to less money .

Chrome socketry not too bad in design and range of rail sets .

 

[CR888]

Tekton impacts are poorly designed & therefore you'd spend your money wiser buying generic cr-v Taiwan impacts that have pro features/design. Always judge a tool on its merits, don't fall into the hype of everyone cheerleeding Tekton product, some of its pretty good, some is not the best choice for the money. I'm not bagging Tekton, I like some of their tools. Most don't know the difference & follow others who have followed others. What he said makes perfect sense.

 

[crewchief888]

FWIW

ive been wrenching on const eq for over 30 years.

my most used sockets are 3/8" dr. followed by 1/4" dr

next in line is a BFH and 3/4" dr

 

[sk farmer]

FWIW

ive been wrenching on const eq for over 30 years.

my most used sockets are 3/8" dr. followed by 1/4" dr

next in line is a BFH and 3/4" dr

an interesting comment. if i had to give up one drive size i could most easily give up 1/2 drive. i use 3/8 the most and then 1/4. i use 1/2 drive but when i do it is usually with as long of a breaker bar or ratchet that i can fit. other than weight my 3/4 would be just as well suited.

if you have any use at all for any sort of bit or specialty socket, you have to have 3/8 drive.

 

[Legion Prime]

I think they're just saying that it'll be easier to get the socket onto the nut or bolt with 12 point sockets. When you only have a few degrees of swing it can take a couple tries to get a 6 point socket on. I don't really think it's worth it to buy 12 point for those few occasions though unless your running into it a lot. Now if you have bolts that require a 12 point socket that's a different matter.

Okay, I was kinda scratchin my head on that one. I have 12 point sockets but all the sockets I've bought are 6 and the only time I can recall having picked a 12pt socket because it was a 12pt were the rare occasions I came across a 12pt fastener.

 

[Professional Tool User]

3/8 will cover most things automotive. 1/2 is for stuff like lug nuts and suspension where the fastener sizes may be bigger and when you want to put on a big 1/2 gun or breaker bar for fighting a seized fastener. 1/4 would be for stuff like under the dash type of jobs where space is at a premium. It really depends on what you will be working on.

 

[Mgdoug3]

I hardly ever use 1/4 drive. My 3/8 set goes down to 1/4 and 6mm. I have a couple 3/8 drive in 1/4 body ratchete and have stopped using 1/4. I use 3/8 the most but I use 1/2 drive often. Occasionally I use 3/4 drive.

I use mostly 1/2 drive with an impact but I use ratchets often enough when an impact won't fit and the bolts are too tight for 3/8 drive. You can probably get by with 1/2 drive impacts but I have had clearance issues with impact sockets. I could only use a chrome socket when torqueing down head bolts on a JD 466.

Short version, buy 3/8 drive first, followed by 1/2 drive.

 

[Citation]

I think if you have an extensive selection of each size you are likely to feel that one type is your favorite (say just 3/8). Until recently I didn't have an extensive 3/8 deep selection. Sometimes a 10mm shallow wasn't deep enough but a 10mm shallow+3" extension was too much. So I used my 10mm deep 1/4 drive.

My point is if you have a somewhat limited range of sockets you may end grabbing a range of sizes simply because they are the only ones you have that can fit.

 

[ZRX61]

Can't recall the last time I used 1/2in

 

[tutti57]

OP, can you give some examples of the type of work you think you'll be doing?

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[Handyandy23]

If you have a wide range of 1/4" stuff, up to 15mm, and you have a wide range of 1/2" stuff, down to 10mm, you will largely forget about 3/8" unless a a bit socket or specialty socket requires it.

When it comes to fitting in tight places, at strange angles, underhood, then you'll find there's nothing like too many options.

I'm the same way, so much overlap between the drive sizes that I find I often go straight from 1/4" to 1/2". Sounds like we are in the minority on that based on how many responses here like 3/8".

3/8" is definitely the best "middle ground" if you could only have one drive size in your tool box. But most 3/8" sets only go up to 19mm, some up to 21mm, and on a 1/2 ton truck or mid size and up SUV there are lots of suspension / lug nuts / underbody fasteners that are larger than 19/21mm. So I tend to go to 1/2" as my default, unless it's all smaller stuff, like interior, then I use 1/4".

I have nothing against 3/8" and if I only worked on smaller cars or didn't live in a rusty environment then I'd probably enjoy the lighter weight tools. But if I'm working on something that has bolts ranging from 14mm to 24mm, 1/2" is by far the easiest and most complete. Plus the stronger drive allows a longer ratchet / breaker bar and more leverage for rusty or stuck bolts.

 

[bmwrd0]

OP, can you give some examples of the type of work you think you'll be doing?

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This, along with what vehicle is it. Truck, sports car, older or newer, all make a difference.

 

[Mr_B]

^
Can't see it makes much difference.
you ain't going do hub nuts, pulleys, mounting brackets head bolts, brakes, basic suspension easily without some basic 1/2".
If your 3/8 cheap quality you just pushes your chances busting yourself or tools using it in situations 1/2" be far wiser .
it that cheap it be stupid not getting basic coverage .

 

[tutti57]

If he's only doing brakes, belts, and oil changes, he could just get some long racheting box ends and be set.

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[Rabid Badger]

Start working on things. If you run into a situation where you need 1/2 inch sockets, go get some. They aren't hard to find.

 

[PR1Gneon]

1/4, 3/8 and 1/2 std 6pt
1/4, 3/8 and 1/2 std 12pt
1/4, 3/8 and 1/2 long 6pt
1/4, 3/8 and 1/2 long 12pt
3/8 mid lenght
3/8 swivel
3/8 and 1/2 low profile
1/2 impact


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