Wrench97
Well-known member
Years ago the neutral and ground buss were the same, I believe it was the late 60's early 70's that changed to have separate neutral and ground buss bars.
so historically on the 3 wire where did the 3rd wire go to in the panel? The ground buss or the neutral buss. Do you find them both ways?
Historically on a NEMA 6-20 240V where the device is using the 3rd wire as a ground like a compressor - where does the 3rd wire go to in the panel? Is the 3rd prong wired as a ground with the ground wire, or is it wired as a neutral?
6-20 is 240v only so no neutral, 2 hots and a ground.Bert - what happens when say the guy's wood shop is on a sub-panel and some of the saws, planers etc are 240V. Say they use a NEMA 6-20 plugs and receptacles, or are wired straight into the device. Does it simply use 2 legs and a ground with no neutral? My question comes from an early argument over whether the 3rd wire was a ground or neutral. On a sub-panel the ground and neutral are separate so it can't be both.
Bert - what happens when say the guy's wood shop is on a sub-panel and some of the saws, planers etc are 240V. Say they use a NEMA 6-20 plugs and receptacles, or are wired straight into the device. Does it simply use 2 legs and a ground with no neutral? My question comes from an early argument over whether the 3rd wire was a ground or neutral. On a sub-panel the ground and neutral are separate so it can't be both.
The reason the diagrams show it as a neutral sometimes and a ground other times is because sometimes the 3rd wire IS a neutral and there is no ground (such as a 3 wire stove), and sometimes the 3rd wire IS a ground with no neutral (such as the compressor). Appliances/machines that only run on 240v don't need or use a neutral. A stove is actually a 120/240v appliance: the heating elements are 240v, but the light in the oven, the clock/timer and other electronics run on 120v. Anything that runs on 120v needs a neutral. A compressor just has a motor that runs on 240v and nothing else. It doesn't need a neutral, only a ground. I'm not sure why stoves didn't have a ground back in the day, but now they do.
Code now requires new circuits for stoves to be wired up with 4-prong outlets and cords- 2 hots, a neutral, and a separate ground.
Same applies to clothes driers- they use both 120v and 240v. They used to not have a ground, now they're wired 4-prong.
Years ago the neutral and ground buss were the same, I believe it was the late 60's early 70's that changed to have separate neutral and ground buss bars.
Years ago the neutral and ground buss were the same, I believe it was the late 60's early 70's that changed to have separate neutral and ground buss bars.
\You need to tear it all apart anyway...but...
If you turn off the breaker(s) do you still get 25V between the box and the neutral (white)?
If yes, if you turn off OTHER breakers, does it ever go away?
The panel box in the church has the neutral and ground blocks both bonded to the box, and each has an assortment of ground and neutral wires mixed up and screwed into each one. the blocks are used interchangeably there, it seems.
What code prohibits the use of nm-b above a drop ceiling? I have seen it used many times in the past on jobs that have been inspected. It would certainly be prohibited if the ceiling space is used as a return for the HVAC as it's not plenum rated but what prohibits it otherwise? I think in this case it would be prohibited anyways in a place of assembly.That pic is your reminder that the orange wire is noncompliant all by itself (Romex not allowed on drop ceiling), regardless of what the actual problem is.
334.12 A2 "Exposed within a dropped or suspended ceiling cavity [except in residential]."
EDIT: and from stuff I read back when this thread started, I got the impression that the church kitchen doesn't necessarily count as a place of assembly. But as I have almost certainly never been in this particular church, I can't say for sure.
The panel box in the church has the neutral and ground blocks both bonded to the box, and each has an assortment of ground and neutral wires mixed up and screwed into each one. the blocks are used interchangeably there, it seems.
This is the 10 gauge wire in the ceiling feeding the wall receptacle.
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Does the place of assembly count for the whole building or just certain rooms? What would have to divide them ?
Sounded like it was in the basement under the church no?
OP, You have a different problem than I was expecting based upon a previous response where you indicated neutrals and grounds landed on the ground bars.
This panel appears to be a sub-panel as there is no main present. I also don't see a bonding screw between neutral blocks and enclosure.
A disconnect upstream of this panel would be considered the main panel. Or maybe there is another panel feeding this one.
The panel in these pics has ground wires landed on the neutral bars. There are no ground bars present. This is a safety issue as the conduit is carrying current back to the main panel.
Yes, agreed. I'm no electrician, but the way the conduit "could" carry current or become energized is "if" the neutral becomes disconnected. That's the reason the code addresses this, but I thought it was how things were done once upon a time.
I watched this video to help me understand the concept.
I would consult a qualified electrician for recommendation.
OP, You have a different problem than I was expecting based upon a previous response where you indicated neutrals and grounds landed on the ground bars.
This panel appears to be a sub-panel as there is no main present. I also don't see a bonding screw between neutral blocks and enclosure.
I think the three wires entering the box from the bottom are the main feeds. There is no upstream box.
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Right below it where it comes in underground from the street. I’ll get a shot of it this week.
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Agree with wyliesdiesels.
It appears to be pretty easy to break out the grounds in this box with 2 ground bars.
Unsure however - if broken out, there is no Grounding Electrode Conductor present... So should the grounds be pulled off the neutral in this case.
Unsure however - if broken out, there is no Grounding Electrode Conductor present... So should the grounds be pulled off the neutral in this case.
Largely, I'm asking if you isolate the neutral on this (pictured) panel and split off the grounds, what are we grounding to up-stream? I'd expect to see a ground wire to the main and within that main, something (eventually) connected to a ground rod...
(off the top of my head)
New ground blocks would attach to the panel enclosure
The panel enclosure would be considered grounded through the conduit connecting it back the next panel upstream.
An equipment grounding conductor is not required if the conduit provides ground continuity back to the source, but having it also is not an issue.
Got it... Totally understand and agree.
Got it. But (maybe I missed it) the conduit to the main appears to be PVC, which doesn't carry current, so I'm expecting a ground wire. If it's metallic, I get it.
Around here, for the panel to be considered to be grounded, it had to be attached with metallic conduit and the rings that tighten that conduit also had set screws for ground wires... Maybe a newer code? That's how I built mine...
Understood neutral and ground bond at the main.