Installing a Pulley System from ceiling joist

[mtblove4ever]

Please help me resolve a debate. We are trying to install a pulley system to store a 150 pound rooftop ten and the pulley system can only be installed on a single ceiling joist. We would like to distribute the load across multiple ceiling joists. One proposal is to screw 2x4s across the top of the ceiling joists (top in pic). The second is to use metal ties to block between the joists (bottom in pic). Which would be more effective in distributing the load?

 

[bad_idea]

I laid a 4x4 fence post (my neighbor ripped his fence out and I used one of the old posts) across the top of the trusses in my garage at my last house. I lifted upwards of 400 lbs by wrapping a sling around the 4x4 and hanging a chain fall from it. These were just to move a load, not to store it.

 

[Kaizen]

What are you storing? 150 pounds hanging under weight all the time?


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[DetachedGarage]

2x4 method

 

[GMCGarage]

Its 150lbs, just screw an eyebolt into the rafter and be done.

 

[Strouty]

If you want to distribute the weight, put a long 4x4 above the joists, have it going perpendicular to them and then attach your rigging to that, in the middle of two joists. This will instantly share the load between two of the joists, essentially doubling your safety factor.

 

[CraigStu]

For 150# I would just span 2 joists w/ 4x4 or doubled 2x4s glued and screwed together. Install so the 2x4s are on edge. Run a long bolt through the ceiling, through the empty space between the joists and then through your 4x4. If you have any choice position wise, and these are actually trusses, put your 4x4 near one of the diagonals. I did exactly this and used it to pull a 500# V-8 and reinstall it.

 

[BigGarage]

Please help me resolve a debate. We are trying to install a pulley system to store a 150 pound rooftop ten and the pulley system can only be installed on a single ceiling joist. We would like to distribute the load across multiple ceiling joists. One proposal is to screw 2x4s across the top of the ceiling joists (top in pic). The second is to use metal ties to block between the joists (bottom in pic). Which would be more effective in distributing the load?

Let's start here: What is "a 150 pound rooftop ten"?

Dennis

 

[jbwilkins]

The bridging is going to depend on your fasteners to provide much of the 'strength'...I'd put a 2x on top of the ceiling joist/bottom cord on edge across as many 'joist' as you can.

I'd spread the load as much as possible, if this is a truss, the bottom cord may not be designed for that kind of load, same could be said for ceiling joists....I'm not saying anything is going to fail, but better safe than sorry....

 

[driftpin]

Let's start here: What is "a 150 pound rooftop ten"?

Dennis

I guess, "a rooftop tent," for travel storage, the kind that kills your gas mileage.

Sure you could just use a eyebolt lag screw, but for uses like this I would rather through-bolt, and use a fender washer at-least, or better, some flat piece of metal w/a hole in it for the hardware to stick-through. The larger the better, within reason. Heavier loads, I'd use a larger, thicker flat piece. I like to use the Simpson strong-tie pieces, they're galvanized, there is a great variety of shapes and sizes, and you can combine them together to come-up w/something specific for your need.

Here's something I used to hang PT 1 x 4's from the OH door track, below the door path, from-which to suspend multiple Costco FEIT 4 ft. LED luminaires for illumination even when the door is in the 'open' position. The luminaires are screwed directly-to the 1 X 4's.

 

[BigGarage]

Please help me resolve a debate. We are trying to install a pulley system to store a 150 pound rooftop ten and the pulley system can only be installed on a single ceiling joist. We would like to distribute the load across multiple ceiling joists. One proposal is to screw 2x4s across the top of the ceiling joists (top in pic). The second is to use metal ties to block between the joists (bottom in pic). Which would be more effective in distributing the load?

Let's start here: What is "a 150 pound rooftop ten"?

Dennis

I guess, "a rooftop tent," for travel storage, the kind that kills your gas mileage.

I see. I guess it goes on top of a car? In that case I would use the method in the lower picture that he posted. For 150 lbs. and assuming the ceiling joists are 2"x6"s (they should be) putting in two 2"x6" pieces bridging between two joists and using metal hangers screwed in with 4 screws (16 total) each is more than enough to hold 150 lbs.. Even if his joists are only 2"x4" it would work well. I definitely would not use the method in his 1st pic unless the pieces were stood on their edge.

Here are a few supports I installed for extra strength to support an old cast iron tub and an antique stove that was close to 1000 lbs.. Of course, they were stored above in the attic not suspended from the supports. These should be more than enough for his stated use. If any extra support was needed for peace of mind several long screws could be put in place on the ends after they were in place.

 

[SGKent]

4x4 or 2x8

 

[firebirdparts]

Option one is effective at distributing the load. Option 2 is not at all.

 

[Vert]

I attached stacked 2x4s across the ceiling joist, then a large eyebolt with a large flat washer. I have small 2 block system from a sailboat on it. It has a built-in cleat for the line, and as much mechanical advantage as I want.

 

[Jeffh40]

Actually, if you do the structural calculations and if the bridging is solid, well fit, and well nailed, the second option will distribute about 1.5 times to double the load that a 2x4 will. If Simpson corner plates are used to attach the bridging in addition to end nailing it, the bridging is extremely ridgid. To develop the full strength of the bridging, either a ceiling or floor (or both) needs to be attached to the rafters also, to keep them from rotating and pulling on the bridging fasteners. Bridging is the single most effective method of reducing span sag due to point loads on a floor or ceiling.

The bridging will eliminate almost all deflection in the middle rafter, and transfer the load nearly equally to all 3. If 3 rows of bridging are put in, with one at the load point, and the other two about 2 feet away each direction, the load will spread almost evenly across the 3 rafters without any differential deflection between them.

To make the 2x4 effective, it needs to extend to span 5 rafters, not 3, and the ends need to be attached with rafter clips to hold them down, as the bowing of the 2x4 tends to cup the ends upwards. Otherwise, it will only transfer a small amount to the adjacent rafters, without excessive deflection in the middle one. If it's on edge instead of flat, it will hold nearly 6 times the weight of one installed flat.

This is rather sound engineering advice, but I'll offer a little bit different idea. pick a panel point in your joists and tie several of them together with vertical 2x6s nailed together. The trusses are strongest at their panel points. I did this pretty successfully a few years ago when I tied 3 trusses together so I could chainfall a 5oo# beam up to the ceiling.

The purpose of the beam was because I was gutting the trusses to make room for a new room but that is the topic of a different thread. The FROG thread. Finished Room Over Garage.