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Propane grill tanks

anythingyoucanimagine

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Feb 6, 2019
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425
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New England
Local mom & pop hardware store used to recycle old tanks back to their gas supplier. They changed suppliers and the new supplier does not take back old tanks for reconditioning. I was offered six++ pallets of 5-gal tanks. (free) Guess: 125-150 tanks.

I could use them for a job/project I have coming up so I'd like to say yes and take them.

What is the valve-to-tank thread? Is it just left-hand npt?

Is a quick acetone bath then a long bake in the sun fine before grinding?

Pallets are shrink wrapped, I'd move them on a yard trailer. I have not looked up placards and DOT (I assume all the tanks aren't empty). They are walking distance from our home, I can take 50,000 trips and will Google DOT rules for transport. That's not a big deal.

Really wondering about how to purge, rinse and clean the tanks and then how to plug them before I start this work/project.

I have a vacuum pump (not from Harbor Freight). Should I evacuate the tanks? I'm worried about storage for a few months and then clean welds. I've cut up plenty of grill tanks for bbq smokers, I am not worried about blowing up, this is a client project and I'm worried about clean gtaw welds.

Thanks.
 
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Zexx

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Oct 5, 2011
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GA
When I have welded on propane tanks I fill them with water to push out any remaining gas. You can see it coming out, looks like a heat wave.
 

MoonRise

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Valve to tank threads are just standard (right handed threads). Lefty-loosy to remove.

But there is usually a thread lock (and sealing) compound on the threads.

Use up any remaining propane in the tanks, in something like a gas grill. :lol:

Even with all the gaseous propane removed though, there is usually an odorant residue in the tank (to varying degrees).

Since the odorant chemical is a sulfur-containing thiol molecule (vaguely similar to skunk stink :D ), rinsing with a small amount of soap/detergent and plain household hydrogen peroxide will usually neutralize the odorant.

Or you can use household bleach.

Either use may cause the bare steel inside the tank to corrode.

Before doing ANY cutting, grinding, or welding on a propane tank, remember that not only is the propane flammable but also the mercaptan odorant as well.

Just what are you trying to do with these repurposed propane tanks?
 

JPinSTL

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Nov 21, 2014
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98
Location
Stanton, MO
I'm curious what you are building with them? I make fire pits from the 500 gallon end bells, I've processed and cut a few tanks.

That is potentially a decent amount of free propane? Got any blacksmith farrier buddies? Maybe let them burn off what gas is left and get some use out of it. I guess you could weigh and see which ones had the most gas and not just a little vapor pressure. Would be a hassle though.

For that small of a tank volume I'd do the water purge method and invert with the valve opened. Leave them in the sun a few days and most of the stink will bake out. Your neighbors will love you!!

You will need to make a fixture to hold the tank tightly while you mechanically remove the valve. This may require a LONG cheater bar on the older tanks so factor that into the design. If you plan to CUT the valves out then I suggest you invest in some CO2 and just purge, torch and knock them out over a weekend or 2.
 

Finky198

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I made a tire bead seater from one of them.


Theirs a flat head bleeder screw on the lower part of the valve opening will vent the tank so be well ventilated area and no flames of course...

Give it and hour or two and you can remove the valve with a decent size pipe wrench it’s best to hold the tank down with a strap to something sturdy it will want to rotate...

Once out I purged with garden hose on trickle for about and hour overflowing and then dumped and let air dry in the sun for a day or 2. And I was good to go


I welded on a 2” black iron ****** to affix valve and nozzle. Which is about to get a serious upgrade cause I happen upon a brand new 2” Industrial ball valve. Vs HDs brass style.

The project worked perfectly I have pictures somewhere. There very strong containers it make sense from public safety standpoint they make them bit tough...
 
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bad_idea

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Jun 11, 2011
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Pasquotank, NC
I know in VA we are allowed to carry 440 lbs of flammables as 'tools of trade'. This is in a commercial application. I would haul them one pallet at a time in the bed of the truck. Two pallets at a time if they will fit. Not likely to draw attention that way, especially if you put a tarp over them.

What you making?
 
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anythingyoucanimagine

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Feb 6, 2019
Messages
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New England
Thanks for all the comments.

Valve to tank threads are just standard (right handed threads). Lefty-loosy to remove.

But there is usually a thread lock (and sealing) compound on the threads.

Use up any remaining propane in the tanks, in something like a gas grill. :lol:

Even with all the gaseous propane removed though, there is usually an odorant residue in the tank (to varying degrees).

Since the odorant chemical is a sulfur-containing thiol molecule (vaguely similar to skunk stink :D ), rinsing with a small amount of soap/detergent and plain household hydrogen peroxide will usually neutralize the odorant.

Or you can use household bleach.

Either use may cause the bare steel inside the tank to corrode.

Before doing ANY cutting, grinding, or welding on a propane tank, remember that not only is the propane flammable but also the mercaptan odorant as well.

Just what are you trying to do with these repurposed propane tanks?


Thanks. I forget how I got the last set of valves out. I think I put the valves into my 6" vise and used a bar to twist the tank off the brass valve. I just remember them being a royal pita to unscrew but it's been a few years so don't remember all the nuances from last time I messed with these things. Last time I only used 3-4 tanks for BBQ smoker fireboxes. Because it was so few tanks I put a handfull or two of pea gravel down the top hole then filled about 1/4 of the tank with dish soap & water then shook it around a bunch manually. Since this is 163 tanks I'll have to figure something else out. Maybe I'll pull all the valves, buy a few plugs/caps and pay the neighbor's kid to run around filling up with a little gravel, few drops of soap, garden hose, plug the tanks then roll them around on my back lawn. I'll post what I'm doing with them at bottom of this comment.

I'm curious what you are building with them? I make fire pits from the 500 gallon end bells, I've processed and cut a few tanks.

That is potentially a decent amount of free propane? Got any blacksmith farrier buddies? Maybe let them burn off what gas is left and get some use out of it. I guess you could weigh and see which ones had the most gas and not just a little vapor pressure. Would be a hassle though.

For that small of a tank volume I'd do the water purge method and invert with the valve opened. Leave them in the sun a few days and most of the stink will bake out. Your neighbors will love you!!

You will need to make a fixture to hold the tank tightly while you mechanically remove the valve. This may require a LONG cheater bar on the older tanks so factor that into the design. If you plan to CUT the valves out then I suggest you invest in some CO2 and just purge, torch and knock them out over a weekend or 2.


I didn't realize how much propane was going to be in the tanks. Actually a lot of them are full or more than 1/2 way full. I assumed they would be empty but didn't realize that they accepted "old tanks" free. There's a LOT of propane. I'd say out of 163 tanks probably 80-90 of them are more than 1/3 of the way full. It was an all-or-nothing deal (I had to take them all) so it's a mix of 20#, 30# and 40# cylinders. (maybe some 15# in there too) Rounding down, 80 15-gal tanks that are 1/3 full is 400# of propane.

How do you recover all that? 50,000 old partially full tanks doesn't do much but maybe I'd buy a 100# tank if there was a halfway decent (and safe) way to consolidate and recover the propane.

Not going to cut the valves out. Will use cheater bar on every single one of them... Won't be fun.

I made a tire bead seater from one of them.


Theirs a flat head bleeder screw on the lower part of the valve opening will vent the tank so be well ventilated area and no flames of course...

Give it and hour or two and you can remove the valve with a decent size pipe wrench it’s best to hold the tank down with a strap to something sturdy it will want to rotate...

Once out I purged with garden hose on trickle for about and hour overflowing and then dumped and let air dry in the sun for a day or 2. And I was good to go


I welded on a 2” black iron ****** to affix valve and nozzle. Which is about to get a serious upgrade cause I happen upon a brand new 2” Industrial ball valve. Vs HDs brass style.

The project worked perfectly I have pictures somewhere. There very strong containers it make sense from public safety standpoint they make them bit tough...


Have any pictures of the tire bead seat machine? That's a cool idea. I have several cars in various forms of disrepair or needing restoration. That would come in handy. You must be a good welder, I don't know that I'd ever trust myself to weld a pressure vessel.



So what am I doing with the tanks: I really have no idea. I'm a lot in over my head. I drive a desk/keyboard for a living. I **** around in the garage as a hobby and stress relief after staring at pixels all day. It was never my intention to go into business making restaurant equipment.


Three things:
~30x restaurant tables with a grill in the center.
~15x urinals from the bigger tanks
And he wants lighting over the bars at two locations (I think I may look for a more appropriate lighting solution)


He's got two brewery/restaurant locations that have outdoor patios, one is a river/boardwalk type thing and the other is on a dock/pier, both fresh water rivers/lakes. He wants 15 six-seat round tables at each location for the outside patios. He wants small gas fired grills in the center of each table that can do both toasted marshmallows/smores and he wants the ability to grill stuff (he does game nights where they have sausage made from different wild game, etc.).

For the table grills I think I'm going to need to do something double-walled and insulated just to keep the bottom cool but still feel open-ish.

The urinals are going to be easy, I'll use the Internet pictures he sent me as inspiration and figure it out.

I think for the lighting that the metal is too thick/heavy gauge. I think refrigerant tanks would be better or perhaps something different.


I'm excited to make 30x of something that involves welding. I've never done this before. Make one, make sure he likes it then just a simple cut list, jigs, LOTS of organization, probably plenty of screw-ups along the way, etc. It's going to be fun.

He wants clear epoxy table tops over wood. Something that the wait staff can easily wipe down and we can glue labels from all the beers the brewery has made over the years. While I think that's a cool idea, I also think that nothing good will happen when combining alcohol with fire and potential flaming marshmallows. Either way, even if it's a disaster it'll be the first time I get to combine multiple things like metal fab/welding and woodworking to build the table tops as well as the composites and epoxy.
 

like2wheel

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Oct 29, 2014
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On an as needed basis
I know a guy that manages a business that has a propane fill station. He made a socket that buzzes the valves off the old tanks with a 1/2" impact gun.
 

gearhead1

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Oct 14, 2013
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NC
The valves are 3/4 NPT and are in very tight. The socket concept is a good idea. Google weatherhead socket.

You’re lucky! I would have taken them also. I love those tanks!

Many uses for them!
Portable air tank.
Bead seater
Gasoline tank for my demolition derby cars
Small portable grill
Yard art (one guy made a minion out of one)
 
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Fix Until Broke

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Feb 21, 2016
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SE Wisconsin
I'm not aware of a way to get the unused propane out of the tanks (though I'm sure there is one).

I wouldn't worry too much about trying to clean out the insides with something like soap and water. Once the tanks are empty, pull the valves out, stick an air hose/blow gun from an air compressor in the hole and pull the trigger for 10-15 seconds and screw a plug back in the hole to keep the inside from rusting/corroding. They'll still smell, but there won't be enough fuel there to support any combustion once you blow it out with compressed air. If you want to be really double extra safe about it stick your welding gun in the hole and purge it with argon before screwing the plug back in.
 

gearhead1

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I made an air tank out of one years ago and the air coming out still smells. Google Mercaptan.
 

Bretny

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Dutchess county NY
I have cut open 5gal propane tanks before. You need to remove the valve and put them upside down for a few hours then fill to the top with water.

Thats alot of tanks. Generaly they sell for $5 each around here. Then you just exchange them at the local gas station or walmart. I have roughly 18 good tanks. Never paid more than $5 and prob have $40 into all of them.
 

gearhead1

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It’s not as rough as you think, at least not around here. Hitting the wall or getting hit in a pile-up in circle track racing hurts a lot worse than demolition derby.
 
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anythingyoucanimagine

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New England
I wonder if lemons would let a used derby car pass tech. Meaning run a car in a demolition derby, get it all cracked up, drag it home, put a cage in it and make it somewhat go forward/straight then bring it to lemons.
 

gearhead1

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Don’t see why not. We would run them in a figure 8 or train race, then derby them.
 

akpolaris

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Seward, Ak
The valve and handle have a guard surrounding them so that a wrench does to go to the valve base easily. Do you just use a grinder to cut this off?
 
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anythingyoucanimagine

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New England
The valve and handle have a guard surrounding them so that a wrench does to go to the valve base easily. Do you just use a grinder to cut this off?

Yes it's a bit of a pain to get them off. I don't remember exactly how I did it the last time. I do remember it involved a lot of swearing and a long cheater bar. This time, especially since I have to many tanks I took the knobs off the top of every tank (safety torx bit) then I used an angle grinder to notch a big socket and a pneumatic impact gun. It works amazing. Zips right out/off. Just have to pay attention to air pressure because if that tank starts to spin it isn't pretty.
 
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