Summit $33 chevy engine dollies

[JBurgess]

Summit engine dollies were mentioned in this thread:

http://garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=57017

These ones:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-910057/

So I bought three to try to clean up my garage (S+H was the same for 1, 2 or 3)

I assembled 2 of them. On one of them one of the holes did not line up:

I had to trim the mounting tabs to clear the 168 tooth flex plate:

The motor mount brackets were about 1-1/2” inches too wide, so I had to loosen the bolts on the cross brace to get the motor mount bolts in. I’ll shim those later. I thought the nuts welded to the cross brace to store the bolts when not in use were a nice touch.

Final results. The wood blocks are because that one is a 4.3 L so it’s too short. The 153 tooth flywheel clears with no modification.

So for $33 they have cast iron casters and roll easily. Minimal tweaking to make them work, for the price I can’t complain. I would buy more if I need them in the future.

My favorite engine pulling adapter:

 

[BackTracker]

Nice.

 

[35mastr]

Kragens and all the local autoparts places carry them for 29.00 or so.

Bought one a couple of years back and still has the motor on it and has been moved many times without any problems.

 

[Shadowdog500]

My favorite engine pulling adapter:

I'm not a big fan of those adapters that mount where the carb should be for pulling engines. One Time I was helping someone who was using one of those on an aluminum intake, and the top of the intake broke off and the engine dropped.

I do like those engine stands. Years ago we modified the one leg so we could mount a starter to start an engine while it was in the stand. If the stand is the same as mine it wont interfere with headers.

Chris

 

[bb1970]

I got three at a local swap meet for $20 ea.

 

[jeepnut24]

Will they work with an LS motor?

 

[JBurgess]

Will they work with an LS motor?

No, the LS is shorter from the bell housing to the motor mount. I'll modifying one in a few days and post some pictures.

 

[JBurgess]

Will they work with an LS motor?

Got out some parts to check out the differences. The outer 2 bolt holes and dowel hole are in the same location, so the rear mounts on the stand are same. Older Chevy and a LS bell housings.

The motor mount hole spacing is different, older Chevy and a LS mount

The difference in the plate required for the motor mount, this plate has both the older and LS mountings in it. The mount also has to be moved back about 4”

If there is interest I can post more pictures when I get one modified.

 

[Lhorn]

http://www.jegs.com/i/Jegster/550/1020/10002/-1

I like this style better. It's a bit more expensive (although I got mine a few years ago). Attaches at the motor mounts so there are less fitment problems and I think you can have the ****** mounted on the engine too.

 

[jeepnut24]

No, the LS is shorter from the bell housing to the motor mount. I'll modifying one in a few days and post some pictures.

Thanks, that would be appreciated...

 

[jeepnut24]

If there is interest I can post more pictures when I get one modified.

Yes, that would be awesome.

I know the bellhousing are the same bolt pattern so the back should be the same. I just want sure about the motor mount end.

 

[kizer]

I might have to look into a couple of these. I have two stands in the garage one with a 89 350 and a 66 235 and I'd rather have something a bit sturdier than a couple of stands and fear the engine is going to tip over.

I suppose I could put one of the engines in my truck and be done with it, but that isn't any fun.

 

[Keep]

http://www.jegs.com/i/Jegster/550/1020/10002/-1

I like this style better. It's a bit more expensive (although I got mine a few years ago). Attaches at the motor mounts so there are less fitment problems and I think you can have the ****** mounted on the engine too.

Wow that thing looks surprising simple. Probably whip one of those up without much hassle.

hmmmm next weekend project I think.

 

[robert_t_wallace]

Why are the chevy ones so much cheaper than the ford ones?

 

[Falcon67]

I'm not a big fan of those adapters that mount where the carb should be for pulling engines. One Time I was helping someone who was using one of those on an aluminum intake, and the top of the intake broke off and the engine dropped.
Chris

Been using one for about 20 years with no issues. Sounds like an problem with the intake, not the plate.

For some reason this is a secure link - odd. But a good read:
https://mustangsplus.com/catalog/articles_lift_engine_08.pdf
Basically the test was to bolt a plate to an aluminum intake and put it on a pull tester and yank until it broke. It took 4000+ lbs to tear them apart. If the intake threads are in good shape and the 5/16" bolts are torque correctly with some washers under them, no problem swinging 700 lbs of engine and trans around.

I make my engine scooters. For $50 at the metal yard you can buy enough 1" or 1 1/2" tube and some angle to build maybe 4-6 of the things. Casters are usually on sale at TSC or HF.

Here's another link - no need to load a certificate in the browser:
http://www.mustangcluboftampa.com/newsletters/june_2007_newsletter.pdf

 

[JBurgess]

The modified one on a 4.3 liter. This was my real goal.

Here’s the unmodified one on the LS. You can see it hits the boss on the front engine, plus the holes do not line up.

The modified one on the LS.

It did however require spacers on the bolts to line up properly.

The final goal, stacking engines to clear up some space.

A modified and unmodified laid together.