220 Receptacle - Crazy Prices?!?

[Augus7us]

Am I nuts and looking at the wrong stuff or is this accurate?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Eaton-30-Amp-250-Volt-6-30R-Power-Receptacle-5700N/206469352

Trying to buy 15 NEMA 6-30R receptacles at HD because I have some gift cards there and its 25$ each... That seems insanely high. I price checked on Amazon and they have them for 8.20$ but I wasn't sure if that was a safe bet and I don't have gift cards there... What say you guys?

Thanks!

 

[The Cobbler]

your call. big difference in price .
what brand do you see for $8? chinesium?
I see leviton on ebay for $11

 

[scottydosnntkno]

They should have cheaper versions in store. Seeing as they ones not available in stores by me. But when 10/8ga is a $1/ft or more is the $20 receptacle really a huge deal?

 

[Cruzan80]

Try Leviton at HD. Model # R10-05372-S00
Store SKU #614886 is coming up 9.98 and they are in stock by me.

 

[matt_i]

I learned that there's a NEMA 14-30 and a NEMA L14-30 which are totally different and incompatible. If you are looking for the twistlock "L" version its going to be probably more expensive. I found a great deal, purchased bulk qty based on the numbers alone and they were incorrect. Thankfully thru the Home D with liberal return policy.

I'd look on ebay for good-used in a lot.

 

[techieman33]

Try Leviton at HD. Model # R10-05372-S00
Store SKU #614886 is coming up 9.98 and they are in stock by me.

Yep, that should do the trick.

I learned that there's a NEMA 14-30 and a NEMA L14-30 which are totally different and incompatible. If you are looking for the twistlock "L" version its going to be probably more expensive. I found a great deal, purchased bulk qty based on the numbers alone and they were incorrect. Thankfully thru the Home D with liberal return policy.

I'd look on ebay for good-used in a lot.

the "L" is for locking. You have to make sure you take the full NEMA code into account when looking for replacements.

 

[mike93lx]

I learned that there's a NEMA 14-30 and a NEMA L14-30 which are totally different and incompatible. If you are looking for the twistlock "L" version its going to be probably more expensive. I found a great deal, purchased bulk qty based on the numbers alone and they were incorrect. Thankfully thru the Home D with liberal return policy.

I'd look on ebay for good-used in a lot.

The OP is looking at 6-30 (250v), not 14-30 {125/250v) receptacles. Locking isn't a factor.

To the OP, that's a lot of receptacles. Why do you need so many? Not much uses that plug, AFAIK

 

[Viper98912]

There should be a leviton model that's under 10 bucks at the HD

 

[sberry]

I am also curious when I see someone asking about unusual item?

 

[NUTTSGT]

I am also curious when I see someone asking about unusual item?

This is part of the reason why I moved this thread to the Electrical and Lighting section.

 

[Augus7us]

.

Try Leviton at HD. Model # R10-05372-S00
Store SKU #614886 is coming up 9.98 and they are in stock by me.

I bought one 6-30r outlet when I bought my wiring from HD and I could have sworn I did not pay 25$ for it. This is the one I believe I bought, thinks for finding that!

The OP is looking at 6-30 (250v), not 14-30 {125/250v) receptacles. Locking isn't a factor.

To the OP, that's a lot of receptacles. Why do you need so many? Not much uses that plug, AFAIK

I have a lot of 220 tools I need to power. I asked on here about running a 220v circuit around my shop for all this. I also asked what receptacle the pros would use for something like this and the folks that replied recommended the 6-30r. Is there a better receptacle for something like this? I didn't want the locking type.

My goals were to essentially standardize my 220v tools on one outlet type. It didn't make sense to me to have 15 220v outlets that were all different, thus if I ever move my tools I'd have to rewire the receptacles.

Edit:

For the record it was WylieDiesel that recommended the 6-30r outlets in my older thread. I know a lot of you know he posts in here and knows his stuff! Not sure why this wouldn't work but I'm open to other opinions.

 

[Falcon67]

I have bought the brand name items from Amazon vs HD or Lowes. Saved as much as $10/part. Same parts, different supplier. Similar example is oil/filters - I just bought a case of 5w-30 full syn and two oil filters for the F150. Price compared Walmart online vs the O'Reillys around the corner from work. Bought through Walmart, saved right over $50. And it all came right to the front door. Pays to shop around.

 

[Cruzan80]

Other better sparkys will probably chime in as well, but I would suggest against standardizing on a 30a outlet around your shop.
First, code says you can't have more than one outlet per circuit if it is above 20A. (IRBC Code).
Second, how many of your tools will pull over 20A @240v (assuming USA voltage here)?
Third is the price of wire goes up as you use thicker gauge wire. 30A is #10, 20A is #12, 15A is #14 (generalizing for Rolex in walls).
What I have done in a similar situation is to have dedicated circuits for the few things over 20A (air compressor, heater), and have run a 20A 240V line around my shop. You do need to wire in a pigtail extension, as the outlets can't pass thru voltage like a standard 120v outlet. I then got 6-20R for most, and put a couple of L6-20 for things in the middle of the shop (L for twist lock). That way if a cord gets snagged, it shouldn't pull out of the wall.
The plan is to leave all of the tools around the wall plugged in, and only plug in tools in the middle when I am using them. If I need to, I can add another circuit if needed for a welder or a fast charge EV.

All of this is predicated on adding a subpanel in the garage, so extra circuits become easier to connect, instead of having to pull from the main.

Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using The Garage Journal mobile app

 

[mike93lx]

.

I bought one 6-30r outlet when I bought my wiring from HD and I could have sworn I did not pay 25$ for it. This is the one I believe I bought, thinks for finding that!



I have a lot of 220 tools I need to power. I asked on here about running a 220v circuit around my shop for all this. I also asked what receptacle the pros would use for something like this and the folks that replied recommended the 6-30r. Is there a better receptacle for something like this? I didn't want the locking type.

My goals were to essentially standardize my 220v tools on one outlet type. It didn't make sense to me to have 15 220v outlets that were all different, thus if I ever move my tools I'd have to rewire the receptacles.

Edit:

For the record it was WylieDiesel that recommended the 6-30r outlets in my older thread. I know a lot of you know he posts in here and knows his stuff! Not sure why this wouldn't work but I'm open to other opinions.

Are your 240v (yes, it is 240,not 220) really mobile? What kids of stuff are they?

I wouldnt use 30a receptacles either and would bet 20a is the better size for most stuff. Those plugs are bulky, expensive, not easy to insert and remove. Lots of downsides for what real benefit?

 

[frankd]

How about this one. I used it to install a 240v heater in my garage. I think they're around $10 each at home depot

https://www.leviton.com/en/products/5374

 

[Augus7us]

I'll give you guys a quick sitrep as some of what you all are saying isn't possible, like not running 10/2, that ship has sailed.

I have a detached pole building I'm rewiring as the previous owner didn't know what he was doing and only ran 2 x 110v circuits.

I've already ran a new main line to a new sub panel and wired up all the outlets. Lots of 120 and 240v outlets. All my larger tools (welder, kiln, compressor) have dedicated 240v outlets.

For my smaller 240v tools (grinders, saws, etc) I want to plug them into a common circuit with common receptacles. This is my first shop this big and I'd like to have some flexibility as to where my tools land and future proof it a bit. So if I change where my wood working tools are going, for example, I don't have to worry about power.

My walls are open now, but I will be drywalling them up before too long, hence the future proofing.

You guys do have me thinking though. Looking at some electric motor charts, I see FLA for 3HP motors are 18.7 @ 208v and I cannot imagine having a tool using a motor larger than that, that isn't on its own circuit. That said the 6-20r outlets seem to be $5-10$ and look like they fit in a one gang box. So it doesn't look like I'm going to save a lot of money there and all my 240v drops are in two gang boxes. Other than the fact the outlets can be a pain to use, is there any reason not to go this route aside from that and cost maybe?

I'd have to do the math but I suppose if I were to pull the two gang boxes off the wall and replace them with a one gang box and get 20amp 240 receptacles for around $5-7 each, it would probably be a wash vs using the $10 30amp receptacles and the existing boxes, so I guess I'm open to that.

 

[Augus7us]

Other better sparkys will probably chime in as well, but I would suggest against standardizing on a 30a outlet around your shop.
First, code says you can't have more than one outlet per circuit if it is above 20A. (IRBC Code).

This is the first I've heard of this. I started a thread about creating a 30amp circuit here and only one person said it couldn't be done in a residential setting but Wylie said that was not true!

If that is the case and considering I've already run 10/2 all over the shop, could I just connect it all to a 20amp breaker?

 

[mike93lx]

This is the first I've heard of this. I started a thread about creating a 30amp circuit here and only one person said it couldn't be done in a residential setting but Wylie said that was not true!

If that is the case and considering I've already run 10/2 all over the shop, could I just connect it all to a 20amp breaker?

Yes, you can use 10/2 with a 20a receptacle.

 

[Cruzan80]

You can use 10/2 with 20A outlets. You can mount two 20A outlets in each double gang box vs one 30A.

As far as multiple 30A outlets on same circuit, it depends on what code you follow. NEC doesnt prohibit multiple outlets over 20A, but IRBC does. (Can someone confirm for me? Going off memory).

Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using The Garage Journal mobile app

 

[wyliesdiesels]

.

I bought one 6-30r outlet when I bought my wiring from HD and I could have sworn I did not pay 25$ for it. This is the one I believe I bought, thinks for finding that!

I have a lot of 220 tools I need to power. I asked on here about running a 220v circuit around my shop for all this. I also asked what receptacle the pros would use for something like this and the folks that replied recommended the 6-30r. Is there a better receptacle for something like this? I didn't want the locking type.

My goals were to essentially standardize my 220v tools on one outlet type. It didn't make sense to me to have 15 220v outlets that were all different, thus if I ever move my tools I'd have to rewire the receptacles.

Edit:

For the record it was WylieDiesel that recommended the 6-30r outlets in my older thread. I know a lot of you know he posts in here and knows his stuff! Not sure why this wouldn't work but I'm open to other opinions.

Hey can you provide a link to your older thread?

Without knowing what equipment you have, its impossible to recommend an attachment plug. And some equipment needs to be on certain size circuits.

i dont recall recommending a certain size attachment plug for an unknown list of equipment that may have different circuit requirements.

 

[Augus7us]

Thanks Mike and Cruz!

Hey Wylie,

Here is the thread I'm referring to.

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=404966

To be honest I didn't list my tools in that thread, I just asked what receptacle I should use if I wanted to run a 30amp circuit and you replied with the 6-30r. Nothing wrong with that.

However these guys got me thinking do I really need 30amps?

Starting to rethink this.

Would I be better off pulling my two gang boxes and replacing them with one gang and using the smaller and cheaper 240 receptacles and plugs, like 6-20r recommended above?

 

[Cruzan80]

Yeah, I went back and re-read that thread. Didn't see Wylie recommending anything, just answering what outlet for 30A. I think you are over-engineering this, compared to what you will need.

 

[Bert_]

My advice would be to use 20 amp outlets for most of the tools that take 240v. 240 volt 20 amp circuit will run a 2-3hp motor.If you have a welder, plasma cutter or something then put in water to 50 amp outlets also.

 

[Augus7us]

I think you're right Bert. I liked the idea of a 30amp circuit for a few reasons but I think its much more feasable to do a 20amp circuit.

So that said what would you guys use for receptacles? The 6-20R?

 

[mike93lx]

I think you're right Bert. I liked the idea of a 30amp circuit for a few reasons but I think its much more feasable to do a 20amp circuit.

So that said what would you guys use for receptacles? The 6-20R?

Whatever is on your equipment

 

[Augus7us]

I may not be explaining myself well but I don't want to buy a bunch of different receptacles for all the jury rigged plugs on my tools.

I want to standardize my tools on one receptacle type, as stated above. Then I'll rewire the tools that do not have those plugs so everything is the same. All the tools I'm referring to are 3HP or less and will not use more than 20amps.

 

[mike93lx]

I don't think 6-20r is rated at 3hp. 2 is the limit AFAIK

This is the problem with "standardizing" around a plug. One just simply does not work for everything.

If it were me, I'd probably install 6-20's and see what the real needs are. Change select plugs where needed

 

[wyliesdiesels]

I may not be explaining myself well but I don't want to buy a bunch of different receptacles for all the jury rigged plugs on my tools.

I want to standardize my tools on one receptacle type, as stated above. Then I'll rewire the tools that do not have those plugs so everything is the same. All the tools I'm referring to are 3HP or less and will not use more than 20amps.

Attachment plugs MUST be rated for at least the same HP as the motor HP rating.

A 6-20 or 6-30 may not be rated for 3HP.

Check the specs.

 

[Cruzan80]

When I just searched HP ratings, the first link under 6-20r HP rating lists 6-20 and 6-30 as maxing out at 2HP. Only 6-50 is rated at 3HP. Everything over that would either need to be sleeve and pin, or hardwired in. However, many people wire based on amperage instead of HP, since actual HP numbers compared to peak HP numbers are sometimes hard to read. Like a 6.5 "HP" Compressor motor that only pulls 15A...

 

[mike93lx]

When I just searched HP ratings, the first link under 6-20r HP rating lists 6-20 and 6-30 as maxing out at 2HP. Only 6-50 is rated at 3HP. Everything over that would either need to be sleeve and pin, or hardwired in. However, many people wire based on amperage instead of HP, since actual HP numbers compared to peak HP numbers are sometimes hard to read. Like a 6.5 "HP" Compressor motor that only pulls 15A...

I guess it is too bad that code isn't set on what many people do...

 

[mm08822]

I guess it is too bad that code isn't set on what many people do...

We don't need no stinkin' codes.

 

[mm08822]

When I just searched HP ratings, the first link under 6-20r HP rating lists 6-20 and 6-30 as maxing out at 2HP. Only 6-50 is rated at 3HP. Everything over that would either need to be sleeve and pin, or hardwired in. However, many people wire based on amperage instead of HP, since actual HP numbers compared to peak HP numbers are sometimes hard to read. Like a 6.5 "HP" Compressor motor that only pulls 15A...

Yes, a 6-50 is the first available to handle 3hp. Over 3.5 hp, pin & sleeve is required unless hardwired - been discussed many times.

All components in a motor circuit must be hp rated - amperage doesnt determine the size as per NEC.

For those SPL rated compressor motors, the nameplate motor FLA's are used to determine the corresponding hp. Then the hardware is chosen based upon that determined hp size.

 

[alfredeneuman]

Yes, a 6-50 is the first available to handle 3hp. Once 3.5 hp is reached, pin & sleeve is required unless hardwired - been discussed many times.

The NEMA 14-60 is rated @ 3.5 HP

 

[mm08822]

The NEMA 14-60 is rated @ 3.5 HP

Yes, that is what I was referring to. I stated it wrong. Thx

 

[checkthisout]

Just run surface mount conduit or armored cable after you get your walls buttoned up and start working.

Way easier and can be changed as your needs change.

 

[Norcal]

Just run surface mount conduit or armored cable after you get your walls buttoned up and start working.

Way easier and can be changed as your needs change.

Armored Cable, AC, and Metal Clad cable, MC, both have the same requirements as NM cable to be protected against physical damage.

 

[Showkey]

I have bought the brand name items from Amazon vs HD or Lowes. Saved as much as $10/part. Same parts, different supplier. Similar example is oil/filters - I just bought a case of 5w-30 full syn and two oil filters for the F150. Price compared Walmart online vs the O'Reillys around the corner from work. Bought through Walmart, saved right over $50. And it all came right to the front door. Pays to shop around.

Not to derail the thread but it likely applies..........when the price is too good. There might be a reason........counterfeit auto parts are a problem. Electrical parts, tools, wire, fasteners are also counterfeited and sold on line and at stores.

Example Oil filter : https://focusoilfilter.com/fake-vs-oem/

Electrical : https://www.ecmag.com/section/safety/fakes-and-frauds-counterfeit-electrical-parts-and-equipment

 

[Bigbandguy]

Just to add to the confusion I needed some 240V lock connectors for a project and ran into the HD prices so I shopped on the infamous 'bay. For 10 bucks each I received the identical part to the 29.95 version at HD . If it is a counterfeit it is a damn good one. Same material, same plating, same color plastic and I would bet the 20 bucks each I saved that it was made in the same factory.

All tested and all work as specified. IMHO the orange box is gouging the price. Actually you can remove the "humble" from my opinion. If any of the 'bay parts fail I will make a point of reporting it here but don't hold your breath waiting.

 

[sberry]

I may not be explaining myself well but I don't want to buy a bunch of different receptacles for all the jury rigged plugs on my tools.

I want to standardize my tools on one receptacle type, as stated above. Then I'll rewire the tools that do not have those plugs so everything is the same. All the tools I'm referring to are 3HP or less and will not use more than 20amps.

They shouldnt be jury rigged plugs. The requirements may be different, some may be allowed on 30, some not. If you have 10 wire can go up to 30 for the recepts, could use less on them too. Some do allow heavier circuits for sharing, they have a wire heavier than the tool needs, a 14 cord for 30A circuits, if it has 16 needs to be on 20, some have additional protection.
You can use combination methods, some in the wall and some surface pipe for a raceway too which makes changes easier.
Some of the equipment depends on the breaker for short circuit protection and normally only provides thermal protection for the building wire on general circuits with multiple outlets,,, a recept indicates that it is sufficient for rated amperage.