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Delta DP600 17” Drill Press - Parts Needed

wizkid00104

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I just picked up a Delta DP600 drill press yesterday. The thing is massive. Probably way overkill for a home garage. I’m in the process of disassembling and cleaning everything. One part I am in need of is the return spring assembly. I specifically need the back plate for the return spring. Part number DP-607-L. Here are some photos of the part I am looking for. These are from an old eBay sale.

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What makes this part unique is the teeth on it. There is a screw adjustment for the tension on the return spring. That seems to be rather unique to this model.

Here are some other photos

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The quill is missing a tooth at the very top of its travel, but I don’t foresee it being a problem. It included the huge production table. Not sure if it has the 1/2, 3/4, or 1 hp motor. Everything was painted over but the motor appears to be an original GE. There are some chips in the pulleys, it needs a new belt, the wiring needs redone. Nothing too major. I’m on the fence about repainting it. I’d just like to clean it up and get it working for now.

I am open to any tips or suggestions regarding this little project. And please let me know if you have parts or know of a source. eBay, Amazon, and Craigslist don’t have anything at the moment.


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topcok88

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Check out the thread in my signature about the drill press restoration. I do have an extra back plate but the spring has a very small crack in it. I can send you pictures and if you want it just pay for shipping.


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wizkid00104

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That was a great rebuild you did. How tough was it to get the handle shaft out? Mine is in there really tight. Mine has taken a lot of swing a with a plastic hammer. It’s almost out but I had to stop when my son went to sleep last night.
 

topcok88

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That was a great rebuild you did. How tough was it to get the handle shaft out? Mine is in there really tight. Mine has taken a lot of swing a with a plastic hammer. It’s almost out but I had to stop when my son went to sleep last night.



Thanks. Well I’d had to go back and look at mine but if I recall correctly the shaft only goes one way. I basically soaked all those areas in Kroil and lightly agitated them over time. I will look at it later today.


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wizkid00104

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I’ll take it. Shoot me a PM with the info. Thank you!


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wizkid00104

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I tried private messaging you twice but my sent folder is still empty. Not sure what is going on with it.
 

Packard V8

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The Delta 17"s are among the best small shop DPs ever built. One might say the basic design of the 17" is just so stout, they last decades until a weak link inevitably shows up.
As you've noticed, there are a few inherent weaknesses in the design. The spring tensioner is one. The clips which lock the spindle parts together is another. But even with wear points, it's still a unit you'll learn to love.

Is yours the more common #2MT spindle or the less common JT33 drill chuck?

jack vines
 

454ragtop

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I have some parts for these, once you know what you need. Post a pic of the quill damage, not seeing it in that pic.

Jack, that's the 2MT spindle.
 
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wizkid00104

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I have no doubt I’ll love it. They just don’t build stuff like this anymore.

Here is my serial number. From what I can tell this machine is pre-1941 with a serial starting at 10-

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Here are my damaged parts:

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Motor pulley. Still very useable, just some chips missing.

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Split clamp on the post. Still holds but I may replace it. Found one on eBay. The bearing above it needs oiled but it’s in excellent shape and still has all its balls.

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wizkid00104

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Here are some other photos of it in pieces. It was working except for the spindle spring when I picked it up Sunday.

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Production table DP660
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I am not sure if this model was supposed to have full belt guards. They are long gone if it was. Motor appears original. I’m going to see if I can strip the place on the motor to review the engravings.

Any other advice or suggestions?


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454ragtop

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Unlikely that is the original motor, most likely originally had a Delta 3 phase motor, that one was probably added to convert it to single phase. That chipped tooth is in a bad spot, right at the beginning of the travel, and will be very annoying if it even works. Inspect the pinion closely for damaged teeth as well. That was probably all the belt guard that DP ever had. Unfortunately the damaged sheaves on that motor pulley are for the most often used slowest speeds. What size is your motor shaft, most of these used 3/4" shaft motors and matching pulleys.
 
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wizkid00104

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Unlikely that is the original motor, most likely originally had a Delta 3 phase motor, that one was probably added to convert it to single phase. That chipped tooth is in a bad spot, right at the beginning of the travel, and will be very annoying if it even works. Inspect the pinion closely for damaged teeth as well. That was probably all the belt guard that DP ever had. Unfortunately the damaged sheaves on that motor pulley are for the most often used slowest speeds. What size is your motor shaft, most of these used 3/4" shaft motors and matching pulleys.



It’s a 3/4” shaft. I know those teeth are at the beginning of the travel. I was going to try it using the stop to prevent it going up the whole way. If that doesn’t work well, I’ll track down a replacement. I will check the pinion again but it appeared good after the initial cleaning.

Still working to get the old spring bushing back out. It’s in there pretty tight and it doesn’t rotate at all.


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topcok88

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Call up Accurate Bearing and order a new set prior to re-assembly. Great customer service and will make it whisper quiet. It also wasn’t expensive. For the bearing numbers check my thread - I put the boxes next to the bearings they correlate to.


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wizkid00104

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Call up Accurate Bearing and order a new set prior to re-assembly. Great customer service and will make it whisper quiet. It also wasn’t expensive. For the bearing numbers check my thread - I put the boxes next to the bearings they correlate to.


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Does your bearing above your quill pulley have a lip on it?


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wizkid00104

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Yea I think that’s the 407-22NIC in the pictures. It’s like a split ring around the bearing.


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Ok. I’ll get a quote in the new bearings and double check the numbers on mine just to be sure.

You may have it in your thread, but what is the secret to getting the internal parts out of the quill?


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topcok88

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If I recall correctly there is like a threaded ring on one end and I just used a brass rod to carefully walk the bearings out the bore.


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Yea picture is in post 15 of how the quill comes apart.
 
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catalytic

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Re: parts, join OWWM.org and post a wanted ad on the BOYD subforum. A ton of members there have restored this model drill press and have extra parts, donor machines, etc.

Having restored many machines and hunted down many odd parts, I predict you will do much better there versus ebay. People there have come up with some truly impossible-to-find parts for my machines at very cheap prices (it's a nice community and people often try to help out each other with restorations). Just my 0.02.
 
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wizkid00104

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Re: parts, join OWWM.org and post a wanted ad on the BOYD subforum. A ton of members there have restored this model drill press and have extra parts, donor machines, etc.

Having restored many machines and hunted down many odd parts, I predict you will do much better there versus ebay. People there have come up with some truly impossible-to-find parts for my machines at very cheap prices (it's a nice community and people often try to help out each other with restorations). Just my 0.02.



I saw that website come up in another discussion I read. I will check it out. Thank you!


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Davefr

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Ok. I’ll get a quote in the new bearings and double check the numbers on mine just to be sure.

You may have it in your thread, but what is the secret to getting the internal parts out of the quill?


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You need to remove the bearing retainer. I'd start soaking it in penetrant right now. If you're lucky you can use a drift or screwdriver to tap it out. If you're unlucky you'll need to use one of these.

The good news is that bearing retainer is the hardest part of working on these DP600's. The rest is pretty straight forward.

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wizkid00104

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You need to remove the bearing retainer. I'd start soaking it in penetrant right now. If you're lucky you can use a drift or screwdriver to tap it out. If you're unlucky you'll need to use one of these.

The good news is that bearing retainer is the hardest part of working on these DP600's. The rest is pretty straight forward.

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What is that tool called?


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Davefr

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P.S. Here's one more potential gotcha. When separating the quill assembly there's a hidden key that keeps these two components together. It's hidden under the clip.

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Davefr

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What is that tool called?


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It's homemade from a piece of galv. plumbing pipe ground so that the two tabs fit precisely into the bearing retailer nut to apply max. torque using the VG chain wrench.
 
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wizkid00104

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P.S. Here's one more potential gotcha. When separating the quill assembly there's a hidden key that keeps these two components together. It's hidden under the clip.



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That’s fantastic help. Thank you!


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wizkid00104

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Few more photos.

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If you look closely at the compound gear in the table you’ll see a pretty creative fix. It’s how you know this was owned by a machine shop.

I am thinking the further I get, I am going to paint it. Now what color... hmmmmm. I’m keeping it for myself, so I don’t care about factory color.


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wizkid00104

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wizkid00104

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Pulled the motor apart. Everything looks good. To my surprise this is a pushing motor. I have not found any bearings. It has weep holes with a sponge material that is spring loaded in the hole. There are also oil grooves machine in the sleeves for the shaft.

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catalytic

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I got my quill completely disassembled. Just emailed a quote request for bearings.

Are the bearings nonstandard? I see they're New Departure, which is defunct, but it's unusual to see a New Departure bearing in a Delta Machine that doesn't have a standard equivalent being made today. You seem like you know what you're doing, so maybe this isn't helpful advice, but you may want to get out your calipers (set to millimeters for bearings) and measure the OD, ID, Thickness, and see if someone like SKF makes a standard replacement. I have done a ton of bearings and never had to request a quote.

SKF Explorer series bearings in either double shielded or sealed are the go-to good quality bearing replacement for machines like this. Lots of people also like ordering bearings from Accurate Bearing (ask for Lynne), but those tend to be Japanese bearings and not SKF (which is also fine).
 

Packard V8

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While Accurate Bearing is good folk, there's nothing rare or magic about those bearings. They're available at your local bearing supply house.

jack vines
 

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I bought every part off of a Delta 600 that was at the local recycling yard. Every part except the heavy cast pieces. If you need something, I’ve probably got it sitting here. Shoot me a PM if you’re still missing something.
 
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wizkid00104

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Will do, thanks! Everyone has been extremely helpful through this process. Also on OWWM.org. Great communities of people.

Used my neighbors new lathe (came from the same shop as this press) to clean and polish some of the parts.

Here is the handle pinion and a before and after of the handles.

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Spindle internals

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Everything back on the bench. Now it’s beer time.

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wizkid00104

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I got a donor machine locally off OWWM.org with all the good parts I needed.

Tonight I decided to see what I could do with the original pulley bearings. The spun free but felt dry and had a few rough spots.

I used precision screw drivers and worked one of the races off after gently prying up in a circle. After that I hit them with brake cleaner and then put them in an ultrasonic heater cleaner for about 15 minutes with isopropyl alcohol. In between cycle I brushed them with a tooth brush, flushed them with brake cleaner, and then spun them really well. After they had dried, I used my grease gun with a needle attachment and put a dab of grease between each ball inside and out. The I was able to use a socket and a vise and gently put the shield back in place. They don’t look perfect but they spin nice and smooth. One exception was the spare table crank bearing. I didn’t get mine out yet. I also found the 2 piece shield contained a felt ring so I pulled that out and am letting it dry over night before greasing and reassembling.

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Cleaned:
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Greased:
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Shields installed:
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Table bearing drying:
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wizkid00104

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 30, 2014
Messages
50
Picked up some blasting sand from tractor supply today. 50lb of fine media for $9. First 2 parts done and ready for primer and test color.

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This is where I’ll probably anger some people. After putting all the effort in, I don’t want the factory gray. It’s boring to me. My thoughts are hammered green. We are going to see how that looks and go from there.


Sent from my iPhone using The Garage Journal mobile app
 

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Packard V8

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 16, 2009
Messages
7,380
Location
Spokane, WA
Your DP, your money, your decision. Just know the hammered finish usually works better on smooth sheet metal. Results on rough iron castings may vary.

jack vines
 

ClappedOutBport

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 30, 2016
Messages
998
Picked up some blasting sand from tractor supply today. 50lb of fine media for $9. First 2 parts done and ready for primer and test color.

f1bdfc503ec81bdc02df5dfe566bae84.jpg

This is where I’ll probably anger some people. After putting all the effort in, I don’t want the factory gray. It’s boring to me. My thoughts are hammered green. We are going to see how that looks and go from there.


Sent from my iPhone using The Garage Journal mobile app

YOUR drill press, YOUR money, YOUR effort in the restoration, so why paint it what others want? Eliciting advice is fine and cool, but at the end of the day, you should paint it a color you like, no matter what others think. I painted the camelback in my avatar gulf oil livery. A lot of people don't like that. I tell them to paint their own whatever they want.
 

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