Yes, the grip is very similar to that of the Vessel. This screwdriver works very well with its 72 teeth has a very soft touch, I even dare to say that I like it better than the PB Swiss .
Tools of Japan
- Thread starter Frankstools
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Reed Prince
Well-known member
I have one of these too, but didn't know they were also sold with bits, unless you are talking about the double-ended shanks I saw on Amazon Japan.
The screwdriver's "socket" is 45mm deep, so I don't see how you could use standard bits without putting the bits into an insert bit holder. My Wera bit holder does not go deep enough to engage the ball bearing, but my Tone and Bosch ones are held firmly.
MetricTech
Well-known member
Reed Prince
Well-known member
I just tried one of my Wiha power blades. They fit well, but the blade goes 12mm deeper into the handle than it does in my Wiha CentroFix before engaging the retaining bearing, and will go another 18mm before touching the bottom of the cavity. The Anex is still an excellent option if I don't have to apply a lot of downward force to a fastener that is deeply recessed.
Mecha
Well-known member
What's the current best place to get Koken stuff?
rice rocket
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I usually check amazon.co.jp or Rakuten Global Market (i-tools or Kouguyanopro). Frankstools carries them too, but their pricing is likely double what you'll find on Rakuten.
rice rocket
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Sweet new toys/tools! All Made in Japan except the sk11 stubby bits. But they are only 12mm long and adorable so they get a pass.
Metric Tech
Any more details on SK11?
I've come across some of their stuff on Webike and amazon.co.jp and assumed it was just another Taiwan rebrand.
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MetricTech
Well-known member
They are a great brand for all sorts of tools but sadly like most of our favorite tool brands they are sourcing many tools to Taiwan and China. The air blower pictured is SK11 and COO Japan. You just gotta do some looking to find out the COO. I got a small pack of the Anex stubby bits pictured and they are 19mm long compared to the SK11’s 12mm. It’s seems the SK11 bits are coated kinda like the Pb Swiss nano coating.
rice rocket
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Thanks, that's what I figured given where they were priced. I was looking at their hex bits that are titanium nitride coated, and they seemed too cheap to be made in Japan.
jmhinkle
Well-known member
Some new Japanese goodies thanks to Jimmyin3D.
Asahi 19x22 flare nut wrench
Nepros 1/4 and 3/8 universal
Ko-Ken adapters with Hex fitting for wrenches. 1/4 to 3/8, 3/8 to 1/4, 3/8 to 1/2, 1/2 to 3/8.
Asahi 19x22 flare nut wrench
Nepros 1/4 and 3/8 universal
Ko-Ken adapters with Hex fitting for wrenches. 1/4 to 3/8, 3/8 to 1/4, 3/8 to 1/2, 1/2 to 3/8.
jmhinkle
Well-known member
One of my buddies at work carries a set of those. He swears by them. I like the lightness and thinner profile of them.
Unfortunately Rakuten charges insane shipping rates. I’d rather support Frank if given the option. Per Rakuten here is the shipping info. For conversion to USD think of one yen as one penny and the take 10% off. So 2,000 yen is $18.
Rate schedule (EMS：All Zones) Shipping type:Express Mail Service(EMS)
Zone1 Asia
Zone 2 Oceania, North America, Central America and the Middle East
Zone 2.5 Europe
Zone 3 South America and Africa
Weight First Zone Second Zone Third Zone
Up to 500g 1,400JPY 2,000JPY 2,200JPY 2,400JPY
Up to 600g 1,540JPY 2,180JPY 2,400JPY 2,740JPY
Up to 700g 1,680JPY 2,360JPY 2,600JPY 3,080JPY
Up to 800g 1,820JPY 2,540JPY 2,800JPY 3,420JPY
Up to 900g 1,960JPY 2,720JPY 3,000JPY 3,760JPY
Up to 1.0kg 2,100JPY 2,900JPY 3,200JPY 4,100JPY
Up to 1.25kg 2,400JPY 3,300JPY 3,650JPY 4,900JPY
Up to 1.5kg 2,700JPY 3,700JPY 4,100JPY 5,700JPY
Up to 1.75kg 3,000JPY 4,100JPY 4,550JPY 6,500JPY
Up to 2.0kg 3,300JPY 4,500JPY 5,000JPY 7,300JPY
Thanks for posting about this nice little Anex ball-grip ratcheting screwdriver, Mercucho. I just got one from the friendly folks at Amazon Japan.
Since I also have the very similar Vessel ball-grip ratcheting screwdriver, I thought I might post a brief comparison.
Here are the two drivers, both with the P2 bits mounted.
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Here they are with the bits removed.
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The ball of the Vessel can be used as a ratcheting stubby driver, but it will only accept the three types of bits shown on the left. It holds them nice and tight. In fact, to pull out the short bit, you need to use a pair of pliers. It won't hold double-ended bits like the one on the far right. They don't push in far enough and just fall out.
View media item 95717
Here are the bits mounted, so you can see how far they go in.
View media item 95718
View media item 95719
The Anex is designed to take double-ended bits. As you can see in the pictures, they slide really far (about 4.5 cm, or 1.5") into the handle, so short bits are obviously out of the question. They fall completely into the tube and you have to shake the driver (hard) to get them out. The long single-ended bit shown in the picture will slide in, but won't click into the handle, so it just slides back out.
View media item 95720
View media item 95721
Anex also sells extension shafts (10 cm, 15 cm, and 20 cm). Here's the handle with the 20-cm extension shaft.
View media item 95722
View media item 95723
The extension shaft has a pull-back locking collar so the bits can't be pulled out, even though they do jiggle in/out a couple of millimeters if you pull on them. The collar is (unfortunately) made of plastic. It will take the top two bits shown in the picture below, and the bits can't be pulled out unless you pull the collar back. As mentioned above, the third bit from the top slides in, but also slides right out again, and the short bit on the bottom goes in too far and has to be shaken out. The bits only go about 2 cm into the chuck of the extension shaft.
(Oh, one other thing I should mention is that the Wera Rapidapter works great with the Anex handle. It clicks into place and provides a nice metal locking collar that firmly holds all bit types except for double-ended.)
View media item 95724
Here's a closing picture. Both drivers have nice fine-tooth ratcheting mechanisms, but the Vessel seems to have slightly less backdrag. The thing I don't like about the Vessel, though, is that it's really easy to accidentally twist the gray ratchet direction ring while using the driver. The switch on the Anex is much less likely to be moved unintentionally.
For those who are interested. All parts of the Anex are made in Japan. The Vessel bits are made in Japan, but the ratchet handle (as I recall) is made in Thailand.
View media item 95725
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Reed Prince
Well-known member
Here are my results with various Japanese stubby ratcheting handles combined with Wiha power blades.
The ball grip Vessel was by far the worst. Because it holds bits with a split ring that had contracted in the smaller diameter portion of the bit but wasn't touching it, the bit moved in and out a couple of mm without resistance and also wobbled side to side. It was also quite difficult to remove the bit. I ended up using pliers. I would not use this handle with any bit that did not have a long anvil with straight sides.
The other Vessel has a deeper cavity and its little ball bearing was pressing against the second hexagonal portion of the bit, so it held the bit firmly. This handle unfortunately has much more back drag than the Anex or the other Vessel.
The Anex held the bit almost as well as the Wiha handle did, thanks to the long second hexagonal portion of the bit which pressed against the internal ball.
I encounter situations where the Wiha handle/bit combination is awkwardly long, and the Anex is a nice alternative.
I found out today that there are a number of different Rapidapters, with some of them long enough to click into place.
Here is the packaging for the clear Vessel handle, just in case anyone is curious.
The ball grip Vessel was by far the worst. Because it holds bits with a split ring that had contracted in the smaller diameter portion of the bit but wasn't touching it, the bit moved in and out a couple of mm without resistance and also wobbled side to side. It was also quite difficult to remove the bit. I ended up using pliers. I would not use this handle with any bit that did not have a long anvil with straight sides.
The other Vessel has a deeper cavity and its little ball bearing was pressing against the second hexagonal portion of the bit, so it held the bit firmly. This handle unfortunately has much more back drag than the Anex or the other Vessel.
The Anex held the bit almost as well as the Wiha handle did, thanks to the long second hexagonal portion of the bit which pressed against the internal ball.
I encounter situations where the Wiha handle/bit combination is awkwardly long, and the Anex is a nice alternative.
I found out today that there are a number of different Rapidapters, with some of them long enough to click into place.
Here is the packaging for the clear Vessel handle, just in case anyone is curious.
Here are my results with various Japanese stubby ratcheting handles combined with Wiha power blades.
The ball grip Vessel was by far the worst. Because it holds bits with a split ring that had contracted in the smaller diameter portion of the bit but wasn't touching it, the bit moved in and out a couple of mm without resistance and also wobbled side to side. It was also quite difficult to remove the bit. I ended up using pliers. I would not use this handle with any bit that did not have a long anvil with straight sides.
The other Vessel has a deeper cavity and its little ball bearing was pressing against the second hexagonal portion of the bit, so it held the bit firmly. This handle unfortunately has much more back drag than the Anex or the other Vessel.
The Anex held the bit almost as well as the Wiha handle did, thanks to the long second hexagonal portion of the bit which pressed against the internal ball.
I encounter situations where the Wiha handle/bit combination is awkwardly long, and the Anex is a nice alternative.
I found out today that there are a number of different Rapidapters, with some of them long enough to click into place.
Here is the packaging for the clear Vessel handle, just in case anyone is curious.
I think there are some diff standards for 1/4“ bits, I seem to remember the Japanese is different; May be wrong though;
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measuredtwice
Well-known member
Nice photos, Reed Prince and tanukiboy.
Yes, this chart nicely shows the differences.
Yes, this chart nicely shows the differences.
1foxracing
Well-known member
MetricTech
Well-known member
Got the Koken 1/2” SAE set to go along with the metric set I just got recently.
-Some sweet KTC clip lifters that I wish I found out about years ago.
-3.Peaks 2 way cutters for flush cutting zip ties on the end and piano wire near the joint.
-1000v insulated knife by 3.Peaks
Metric Tech
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Digging those wrench to socket adapters!
Picked up this Chrome-Vanadium Japan 1/4" ratchet last week. Has the smallest head combined with the largest knurled handle of any 1/4" ratchet I own. I don't think it's an expensive manufacturer but it sure feels nice and has decent action.
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superautobacs
Well-known member
I got a similar one (75* degree I think) some years ago and thought the same thing. Does the task at ease and such a time saver.
Well that would explain it...
BMW started using the "bi-hex" plugs back in '07, in their N54 twin turbos. Typical of BMW to go to a non-standard size but I'm sure the engineers back in the motherland had good reason
Of course Ford has their 9/16" size plugs...
I just caught this post and thread a bit by accident, but I have an N54 engine, and I'm just now realizing that I may not have a socket to get the plugs out (and I did buy OE plugs for a future change). At any rate, do you know if a chrome 12 point 14MM socket would work, or does it have to be a special thin walled 14MM. Also, is the "bi-hex" work with a 12 point socket, or is it a special shape. I saw 14MM Chinese thin walled deep well sockets on eBay for as little as $3.00, shipped free, but was wondering if you're aware of any inexpensive high quality thin walled sockets for N54 engines?
Basically it's a thin wall, deep, 12pt socket. Nothing magical about it, the only trick is that it's thin enough to fit down in the well. If you search AMZN for 'N54 spark plug socket' there are hundreds to chose from, at all price points...
I really wish Vessel sold their Crystaline drivers in sets. You got the biggest boys I see!
I've known the Vessel name since I was a young'n but I've never had my hands on one, until today. I'm in Detroit right now, training at an automotive place on robotics things, and the tool kits issued to us had a full set of Crystaline Vessel's! I just pieced together a set of my own on Rakuten (6300, first time ordering there).
Let us know how you like yours!
(Also I spy the FatMax... They make a metric/standard FatMax, has both scales (8m/26'). Not sure if you knew.. but if you did then please disregard.)
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1foxracing
Well-known member
https://www.vesseltools.com/handtools/screwdrivers/crystaline/6300-kit-14-detail
They can order it for you right here in the USA. JDV products is great to deal with. I just e-mail them in advance and they reply with a 15% off coupon code because I'm a repeat customer. I got a boatload of stuff on special order right now.
Dave455
Well-known member
I’m with you there!
When so many manufacturers are falling over themselves to make ergonomic / soft / real cheap (delete as applicable) handles, I’m glad Vessel offer something better.
Maybe not totally the thing for really greasy or dirty environments (the Snap On or Williams ‘hard handle’ are still the best there, but at least they are easy to clean up. For cleaner jobs, electrical fittings or wood screws these are pretty good, and not too costly!
Grant Gunderson
Well-known member
I picked up a K+gear ratchet at a random home store in Japan a few years ago and love it. Was hoping you guys might be able to help me track down more. It’s got a 90 tooth gear and is substantially smaller than even my nepros! It’s also unique in the direction switch is located back on the grip.
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brollona
Well-known member
Bacho is made in Japan? I thought it's Taiwan.
jmhinkle
Well-known member
The other K+ with the tag in the picture shows made in Taiwan. Just because you bought it in Japan doesn't mean made in Japan. I've never seen or heard of K+ so I don't know for sure.
I do like the looks of yours with the slim head and reverse in the handle though. How smooth are the teeth in it and how high is the back drag?
I do like the looks of yours with the slim head and reverse in the handle though. How smooth are the teeth in it and how high is the back drag?
rice rocket
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Spain or Taiwan, usually.
measuredtwice
Well-known member
Any feedback on the Tsunoda cutters? How does the cutting edge hold up? I'm not familiar with brand. I definitely don't "need" them since I got 2 pairs of $160 carbide tipped medical grade Swanstrom flush cutters for $19--haha! BUT I'm a sucker for good designs and this cutter looks interesting.
Depends on the tool and when it was made. I have bahco tools from Japan, China, Taiwan, Spain, France, Argentina, Germany, Italy and even USA.
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