Pro quality (functionality) battery Drill?

[NC Rick]

I’m experiencing drill motor frustration today. I want a new battery powered drill motor. I use mine often but for all kinds of drilling type operations. I use it less as a driver tool.

Is there a unit made which can replace a corded model? Power and battery life of my currently used drill (motor) is sufficient but the Chuck is near unusable as it slips and has no provision for a key to make it tight. At 1300 rpm maximum, it runs slow for the smaller holes I usually drill.

I’d like 2500 rpm and a real chuck that will hold a 1/4” drill bit well enough to drill into a darned 3/16” piece of cold rolled steel with a feed rate where the drill can actually make a chip?

I’d like a 1/2” chuck capacity.

Real question and real frustration.

 

[dacan23]

Milwaukee M18 Hole Hawg or Super Hole Hawg V1 or Super Hole Hawg V2

 

[Rabid Badger]

The Makita XPH07 has all the power and speed you're looking for and the finest chuck of any cordless drill, period.

https://www.amazon.com/Makita-XPH07Z-Lithium-Brushless-Cordless/dp/B00M46N19K

 

[NC Rick]

As far as I know the Hole Hawgs are 90 degree drills that run at slower rpm, great for a plumber or electrician. I think I bought my last Milwaukee tool after getting and under performing 1/2” cordless impact some years ago. My corded stuff is mostly Milwaukee, made in the USA and 20 years old or more. Good investments.

That Mikita Rabid Badger linked looks good, is less expensive than the Hilti I was looking at but I’d be all set if it didn’t have the hammer drill “feature”. I have a hammer drill that sees little use around here and the hammer assembly makes the drill motor bigger than it would be without. The drill I have now is a Mikita 18v that’s several years old (likely close to ten). It’s been great except it runs a bit slow and the cordless chuck *****. I WOULD buy another Mikita.

 

[NC Rick]

I see the Makita XFD07Z LXT which looks like the same chuck and similar specs. But without the hammer assy.

Could be a winner.

 

[Rabid Badger]

The XFD07 is the non-hammer version:

https://www.amazon.com/Makita-XFD07Z-Lithium-Brushless-Cordless/dp/B00M46N1IQ

 

[QwikKotaTx]

I love all of my Makita cordless but the 5.0Ah batteries seem to help with output. I have a big heavy hammer drill and a small brushless sub-compact. Chuck works way better than any DeWalt Ive used, larger one is a Jacobs but newer ones may be Yukiwa.

Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

 

[engineer2]

The Makita XPH07Z is a steal at $130.

 

[ekimneirbo]

Labor Day approaching. Go to Lowes and get a Kobalt brushless drill with lithium battery. Most likely they will be on sale for $79....a real bargain. They come with a 2ah (amp hr) battery. They have a 5 year warranty on the drill and a 3year on the battery.
You will be very happy with this drill, but if you don't like it, just take it back. You can't beat that. BUT, you will like it. If you decide to keep it, buy a 4ah battery for $50.

Lots of good drills available today, but the marketing technique is to get you to buy a drill and then stick it to you with batteries that last till just past warranty and over price the replacement batteries. A 4ah Craftsman has a 2 yr warranty and costs $99. Dewalt sells a pack of 2 batteries for about $170 with 2 yr warranty. Whatever brand you think you want, check the battery warranty and price before you buy one.

Then again, buy a Kobalt and you will find its a great drill for a very reasonable price and they don't play games with batteries prices and warranties. Like I said, they give you a full refund with no questions asked...so you got nothing to lose by trying one.

 

[finn]

I think most cordless manufacturers offer a variety of cordless drills from homeowner with cheap chicks to heavier duty commercial or at least semi commercial with metal chucks, albeit at a price premium.

I suggest you look at the manufacturer’s web site or some of the larger web based retailers.

The box stores tend to specialize in the low end products.

 

[pstemari]

I'm super happy with my M12 fuel straight hammer-less drill. Compact and abundant torque. Keyless chuck, but it's s decent one.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

 

[dr_clyde]

Metabo.

I cannot believe how much better they are than the box store brands.

I haven’t touched my Milwaukee or Makita drills since getting the Metabo.

The grip that chuck has is absolutely incredible. 3 speed gearbox, tons of torque. I would highly recommend.

 

[dr_clyde]

Here is a link to my thread about the drill.

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=416420

 

[dacan23]

Sure the Hawgs have a max of 1000 or 1200 RPM, but compared to a M18 Fuel drill which maxes out at 2000 RPM, under anything but a light load the Hawg will definitely outperform the regular drill. In high demand circumstances I dont think it would even be a contest. Plus in many cases a drill shouldnt be run in the high RPM speed anyway.

As far as I know the Hole Hawgs are 90 degree drills that run at slower rpm, great for a plumber or electrician. I think I bought my last Milwaukee tool after getting and under performing 1/2” cordless impact some years ago. My corded stuff is mostly Milwaukee, made in the USA and 20 years old or more. Good investments.

That Mikita Rabid Badger linked looks good, is less expensive than the Hilti I was looking at but I’d be all set if it didn’t have the hammer drill “feature”. I have a hammer drill that sees little use around here and the hammer assembly makes the drill motor bigger than it would be without. The drill I have now is a Mikita 18v that’s several years old (likely close to ten). It’s been great except it runs a bit slow and the cordless chuck *****. I WOULD buy another Mikita.

 

[KnurledNut]

I have the xph07 and have put it through heavy use in a professional setting.
Augers, holesaws, mud paddles, drilling steel.
It is the baddest and best drill I have ever used.
The chuck is very precise and strong.

 

[CR888]

I have an older makita drill that had a (Rohm??) chuck which was decent but well worn so I put a 1/2" USA NOS Jacobs on it which is great. I think with the exception of makita & a few others most cordless chucks are pretty ****, but all of them can be replaced with something better.

 

[Git]

The nicest cordless drill I have ever owned is the Fein ASCM 18 QX - thanks to a great deal posted here on Garage Journal, I was able to snag one for $170

Similar to the Metabo Dr Clyde posted about, it had a 4 speed all metal gearbox, Carbide chuck jaws, brushless motor, electronic torque control and had an interchangeable chuck

Here is what it looked like:

I believe that model has been discontinued but if your really serious about a high-quality tool, I would look at another Fein or Metabo

 

[WittHay]

The Makita is the best drill available in a common battery platform. The torque and top rpm is the same as the Hilti. The Hilti in my opinion has better ergonomics and has a 4 speed metal gearbox vs. the 2 speed on the Makita.

I would go with the Makita unless your drilling hours on end as part of your job. The warranty is better on the Hilti if required.

 

[kctyphoon]

Are you always drilling into metal?
I hear some welders like the cordless sds drills for the lower RPM. shut off the hammer function, and use a keyed chuck adapter. Milwaukee makes one that's on the shelf in my HD. It's like $50. Bought it at my last job just in case a regular drill died, but never needed it. They can also pull the bit out, use a chisel w/o the rotation to beat the slag off of welds.

 

[NC Rick]

I am paying really close attention to the comments on here and I appreciate folks in the know who are taking time to reply. I use my one cordless drill for everything but yes, mostly in metal. One thing I look for is the chucks minimum capacity because on my present Makita with the 1/2” chuck I often run up against this. I also drill smaller holes in aluminum. Drilling 6mm or smaller holes in aluminum wants all the speed you can get in most drill motors. I have an older Milwaukee 1/4” hole shooter (corded) which is 4000 rpms and am spoiled from using it. Doing one or two holes on some project makes the cordless drill so much a time saver. We often drill #55 holes through fairly thin aluminum or sintered metal sections and I have to break out that drill more because the chuck on the Makita will not grip near that small. I find that when I need to use a more heavy application like a hole saw, there are flats on the drive shank and I don’t have problems. My existing drill can mess up a wrist and I don’t care too much about more torque.

Having a compact drill is very important at times.

I think the keyless chuck on my present drill is worn. I will likely change it to a keyed chuck as it still works well. The Metabo, and Hilti have 3 or 4 speed gearboxes which I feel may be an over complication of the mechanism. Two speeds seem good. I’d prefer made in Japan or Germain. USA would be nice but not really many options. I do have a Dewalt angle grinder which is marked USA, is one of their high end “industrial” jobs and I have nothing bad to say about it. I rather like it.

While I will pay up for better quality and features, I have to consider cost as a factor in my purchase decision. Unfortunately, battery powered tools are a consumable, even in intermittent duty. The Makita suggested is a strong contender. I really like the Metabo, Hilti offerings.

This made in Japan unit is not new and impressed me over its life. The Chuck has never been “fantastic” but not very bad until lately:

 

[Rabid Badger]

My old drill is very similar to that one and had the same Jacobs chuck. I actually swapped it out for a Rohm I found on eBay for a song. It gave it a new lease on life.

 

[NC Rick]

I’m reading where some Metabo units have a built in square drive option for using the chuck as a tap driver. I like that feature.

 

[RKA]

I agree with CR888, most cordless drill manufacturers put so-so chucks on their drills. A better chuck may solve your problems without resorting to a keyed chuck. If you lived closer, I'd give you my milwuakee with a Rohm chuck to test drive. If that existing drill has value to you as a back up, maybe it's worth spending $40 on a replacement chuck and see if that can sufficiently hold the 1/4" bit in the material you're drilling?

Most drills I have looked at max out around 1500-2000 rpms. Getting higher than that usually involves a 3-4 speed gearbox which adds weight and bulk as you noted. So you might need to make a decision here.

 

[ekimneirbo]

I realize that different people have different brands they prefer and I applaud the fact they have found something they are happy with. The problem in some cases is "cost". You can't just consider the initial cost, you MUST consider if the tool is robust and will last AND how long the batteries last. Battery life is important and replacement cost is a big thing.
The Metabo is a great drill, but I looked on line and saw replacement battery cost for a 4ah was $108 and $124 for a 5ah.

All I can say is don't let the low price of a Kobalt drill fool you.....its a great drill. Again, their battery is guaranteed for 3 years, a full year more than any other competitor I have seen. Battery quits in less than 3 yrs, Lowes gives you a new one. Battery quits after 3 yrs, $50 for a new one. You may find a brand that has three years but I'll bet their battery is more expensive.

Go to Lowes and buy a Kobalt for $99 or $79 on sale. Take it home and use it for a month (or longer). If you don't think it suits you, take it back and they give a full refund. What have you got to lose? I bet you will like it though.

One thing here. I'm a former machinist and have spent my whole life working on cars,airplanes,motorcycles. I built my own house, a 40x60 metal building, several trailers including one to haul a backhoe and every kind of metal project you can imagine. I have more tools than many businesses and many are large industrial machines. I am very familiar with tools. So I'm telling everyone based on my experience over a lifetime, the little Kobalt drill has impressed me.........Go try one and you will like it.

 

[NC Rick]

I realize that different people have different brands they prefer and I applaud the fact they have found something they are happy with. The problem in some cases is "cost". You can't just consider the initial cost, you MUST consider if the tool is robust and will last AND how long the batteries last. Battery life is important and replacement cost is a big thing.
The Metabo is a great drill, but I looked on line and saw replacement battery cost for a 4ah was $108 and $124 for a 5ah.

All I can say is don't let the low price of a Kobalt drill fool you.....its a great drill. Again, their battery is guaranteed for 3 years, a full year more than any other competitor I have seen. Battery quits in less than 3 yrs, Lowes gives you a new one. Battery quits after 3 yrs, $50 for a new one. You may find a brand that has three years but I'll bet their battery is more expensive.

Go to Lowes and buy a Kobalt for $99 or $79 on sale. Take it home and use it for a month (or longer). If you don't think it suits you, take it back and they give a full refund. What have you got to lose? I bet you will like it though.

One thing here. I'm a former machinist and have spent my whole life working on cars,airplanes,motorcycles. I built my own house, a 40x60 metal building, several trailers including one to haul a backhoe and every kind of metal project you can imagine. I have more tools than many businesses and many are large industrial machines. I am very familiar with tools. So I'm telling everyone based on my experience over a lifetime, the little Kobalt drill has impressed me.........Go try one and you will like it.

I respect what you are saying. There is a part of me that cringes at the thought of the Kobalt. I can’t help not be a little bit of a tool snob. I don’t want to pass judgment because mine isn’t always so great but I will always make an effort to limit the amount of Chinese stuff I let in. I have plenty, some of it good to excellent for my use. This is a personal choice I try to make and not right for everyone. I’m going to look at the Kobalt.

I don’t know the age of my Makita (made in Japan) but I guess 10 years. The original batteries are still good. I bought a small Makita impulse driver and a Milwaukee premium 1/2” impact, both with 12 v Ni mh batteries about the same time. The makita batteries recently (last couple years) died and were replaced with some generic Chinese replacement and is in service still. The Milwaukee batteries died in just a few years and I was underwhelmed by the FACT that the 1/4” hex drive Makita driver produced more torque (measured by the ability to loosen lots of the same sized fasteners in an industrial environment) than the 1/2” Milwaukee. That is the last Milwaukee tool I ever and likely will ever purchase. On the same basis, it’s hard to NOT buy the Makita.

The tool snob in me really likes the Hilti. I need to listen less to my inner snob.

 

[dr_clyde]

I realize that different people have different brands they prefer and I applaud the fact they have found something they are happy with. The problem in some cases is "cost". You can't just consider the initial cost, you MUST consider if the tool is robust and will last AND how long the batteries last. Battery life is important and replacement cost is a big thing.
The Metabo is a great drill, but I looked on line and saw replacement battery cost for a 4ah was $108 and $124 for a 5ah.

All I can say is don't let the low price of a Kobalt drill fool you.....its a great drill. Again, their battery is guaranteed for 3 years, a full year more than any other competitor I have seen. Battery quits in less than 3 yrs, Lowes gives you a new one. Battery quits after 3 yrs, $50 for a new one. You may find a brand that has three years but I'll bet their battery is more expensive.

Go to Lowes and buy a Kobalt for $99 or $79 on sale. Take it home and use it for a month (or longer). If you don't think it suits you, take it back and they give a full refund. What have you got to lose? I bet you will like it though.

One thing here. I'm a former machinist and have spent my whole life working on cars,airplanes,motorcycles. I built my own house, a 40x60 metal building, several trailers including one to haul a backhoe and every kind of metal project you can imagine. I have more tools than many businesses and many are large industrial machines. I am very familiar with tools. So I'm telling everyone based on my experience over a lifetime, the little Kobalt drill has impressed me.........Go try one and you will like it.

Have you used a Metabo, Fein or Hilti drill?

They are leagues ahead of the box store brands. They are so much better. So, so much.

I would pay 2x or even 3x for the replacement batteries if need be, they are so much better. $125 for a battery is PEANUTS when you're making money with the tool instead of dealing with poorly designed tools. ****, you can bill enough in two HOURS to pay for a new battery on a job site.

Drills actually grip in the chuck. I haven't spun a drill in the chuck since switching to Metabo. Hell, it even grips a hardened steel tap shank so well I have to be careful not to snap the tap. That chuck alone is worth the price of admission.

I'm sure that Kobalt is a great little drill for the money. It is probably more than the average home shop needs. But it sounds like the OP is using this drill in a demanding industrial environment, and as such, I would highly recommend he look at industrial grade tools.

I don't trust Lowes to even have the Kobalt brand around in a few years. They are switching everything over to SBD stuff so fast, I see Kobalt circling the drain in a year or two.

 

[Rabid Badger]

Drills actually grip in the chuck. I haven't spun a drill in the chuck since switching to Metabo. Hell, it even grips a hardened steel tap shank so well I have to be careful not to snap the tap. That chuck alone is worth the price of admission.

There's nothing special about the Metabo chucks. They're Rohms, just like on the high-end Milwaukees and DeWalts. They're better than a house brand chuck or chinese Jacobs, but they don't match the precision and feel of the Yukiwa on the Makita.

The quick-detach is different, but if you're going to be sinking a lot of screws an impact driver is better than any drill motor. They can be had for less than the price premium of the Metabo, too.

 

[Git]

Here is what I currently have for drills. The Makita and Bosch work great, but they don't even come close to the Fein in terms of power, quality, features, chuck, etc. I use the Fein with the side handle to mix paint, something I used to do only with a corded drill

I agree with Dr Clyde - if you're a homeowner Makita, Bosch, Milwaukee, etc are usually more than enough. But if you're using these to make your living, I would step up

 

[Rabid Badger]

Here is what I currently have for drills. The Makita and Bosch work great, but they don't even come close to the Fein in terms of power, quality, features, chuck, etc. I use the Fein with the side handle to mix paint, something I used to do only with a corded drill

I agree with Dr Clyde - if you're a homeowner Makita, Bosch, Milwaukee, etc are usually more than enough. But if you're using these to make your living, I would step up

That isn't the Makita that has been recommended in this thread. It has roughly half the power and lacks the Yukiwa chuck.

 

[dr_clyde]

There's nothing special about the Metabo chucks. They're Rohms, just like on the high-end Milwaukees and DeWalts. They're better than a house brand chuck or chinese Jacobs, but they don't match the precision and feel of the Yukiwa on the Makita.

The quick-detach is different, but if you're going to be sinking a lot of screws an impact driver is better than any drill motor. They can be had for less than the price premium of the Metabo, too.

A Yukiwa chuck is a very nice chuck, no argument from me. But I stand by my statement. Rohm is a German chuck maker, so it’s not at all surprising that Metabo sources their chucks from Rohm.

I’ve used the Yukiwa chucks. I’ll take the Rohm. Hands down the best chuck I’ve ever touched.

 

[NC Rick]

There's nothing special about the Metabo chucks. They're Rohms, just like on the high-end Milwaukees and DeWalts. They're better than a house brand chuck or chinese Jacobs, but they don't match the precision and feel of the Yukiwa on the Makita.

The quick-detach is different, but if you're going to be sinking a lot of screws an impact driver is better than any drill motor. They can be had for less than the price premium of the Metabo, too.

I appreciate all the thoughts on the subject and all of it is helpful. RB, your specific comparison seems thoughtful and knowledgeable.

I have three older Jacobs “Super Chucks” on machines in the shop. I noticed the drop off in quality and changes in manufacturing for that company. I wonder, do you happen to know where that particular Makita drill is made? Another reason I am leaning in the Makita direction is that I would like an oscillating multi tool as well as possibly other tools which I have much lower demands for and the makita option allows me to hit the box store and get it when I need it while maintaining the same battery platform.

Having said that, I do prefer corded tools for the less used stuff because they seem more or less permanent, lifetime investments at the expense of some convenience.

 

[theoldwizard1]

I’d like 2500 rpm and a real chuck that will hold a 1/4” drill bit well enough to drill into a darned 3/16” piece of cold rolled steel with a feed rate where the drill can actually make a chip?

I’d like a 1/2” chuck capacity.

There is you problem ! 2500 RPM is much too fast for drilling most materials with a 1/2" drill bit !

Most DIYers really need TWO drills ! A 3/8" for most jobs and a TRIPLE gear reduction 1/2" drill for those "big" jobs. Get the M12 non-Fuel 3/8" drill (2407-20). Includes hammer function so it can make (small) holes in concrete/brick/stone.

Milwaukee M18 Hole Hawg ...

That would make a excellent second drill ! At 1,200 RPM it would not be the best choice for shooting 1/4" holes.

 

[dr_clyde]

There is you problem ! 2500 RPM is much too fast for drilling most materials with a 1/2" drill bit !

Most DIYers really need TWO drills ! A 3/8" for most jobs and a TRIPLE gear reduction 1/2" drill for those "big" jobs. Get the M12 non-Fuel 3/8" drill (2407-20). Includes hammer function so it can make (small) holes in concrete/brick/stone.



That would make a excellent second drill ! At 1,200 RPM it would not be the best choice for shooting 1/4" holes.

You can put smaller drills into a 1/2" chuck. It is allowed. Why would you want to limit yourself when you can have one drill that will do both?

Obviously he's not drilling 2500 rpm with a 1/2" twist drill.

My metabo will do 0-500 rpm in first gear, up to 2050 rpm in second, and up to 3800 rpm in third! I want to be able to run 1/8" drills one second, then switch over to a countersink, which commonly have 1/2" shanks.

I don't want a 3/8" chuck anywhere in my shop. 1/2" MINIMUM.

3/8" chucks limit your tool selection.

 

[Rabid Badger]

I appreciate all the thoughts on the subject and all of it is helpful. RB, your specific comparison seems thoughtful and knowledgeable.

I have three older Jacobs “Super Chucks” on machines in the shop. I noticed the drop off in quality and changes in manufacturing for that company. I wonder, do you happen to know where that particular Makita drill is made? Another reason I am leaning in the Makita direction is that I would like an oscillating multi tool as well as possibly other tools which I have much lower demands for and the makita option allows me to hit the box store and get it when I need it while maintaining the same battery platform.

Having said that, I do prefer corded tools for the less used stuff because they seem more or less permanent, lifetime investments at the expense of some convenience.

The drill motor is made in China, the chuck is made in Japan.

The Makita oscillating tools are solid, but the corded model is better than the cordless.

I'm with you on going corded for less-used tools or tools that will always be used near an outlet. For my oscillating tool I opted for the corded Fein, and I don't regret it. There are pros and cons versus the Makita:

Fein Pros:

- Slightly better vibration isolation and ergonomics.

- Starlock blades are easy to change and are all high quality. (Fein and Bosch hold the patent so cheap knockoffs don't exist yet)

- You get the Made in Germany warm fuzzies when you use it.

Makita Pros:

- Less expensive (comes with a hard case for $159 vs $240 for the Fein)

- Blades are cheaper.

- Build quality is equal to the Fein, if not the ergonomics.


Yeah, you opened up a whole new can of worms when you brought up oscillating tools.

 

[Rabid Badger]

You can put smaller drills into a 1/2" chuck. It is allowed. Why would you want to limit yourself when you can have one drill that will do both?

Obviously he's not drilling 2500 rpm with a 1/2" twist drill.

My metabo will do 0-500 rpm in first gear, up to 2050 rpm in second, and up to 3800 rpm in third! I want to be able to run 1/8" drills one second, then switch over to a countersink, which commonly have 1/2" shanks.

I don't want a 3/8" chuck anywhere in my shop. 1/2" MINIMUM.

3/8" chucks limit your tool selection.

He always recommends that M12 whenever anyone so much as mentions drills.

 

[powertrip]

I realize that different people have different brands they prefer and I applaud the fact they have found something they are happy with. The problem in some cases is "cost". You can't just consider the initial cost, you MUST consider if the tool is robust and will last AND how long the batteries last. Battery life is important and replacement cost is a big thing.
The Metabo is a great drill, but I looked on line and saw replacement battery cost for a 4ah was $108 and $124 for a 5ah.

All I can say is don't let the low price of a Kobalt drill fool you.....its a great drill. Again, their battery is guaranteed for 3 years, a full year more than any other competitor I have seen. Battery quits in less than 3 yrs, Lowes gives you a new one. Battery quits after 3 yrs, $50 for a new one. You may find a brand that has three years but I'll bet their battery is more expensive.

Go to Lowes and buy a Kobalt for $99 or $79 on sale. Take it home and use it for a month (or longer). If you don't think it suits you, take it back and they give a full refund. What have you got to lose? I bet you will like it though.

One thing here. I'm a former machinist and have spent my whole life working on cars,airplanes,motorcycles. I built my own house, a 40x60 metal building, several trailers including one to haul a backhoe and every kind of metal project you can imagine. I have more tools than many businesses and many are large industrial machines. I am very familiar with tools. So I'm telling everyone based on my experience over a lifetime, the little Kobalt drill has impressed me.........Go try one and you will like it.

They are made by Chervon if that matters. Google it, They make good stuff. All drills are brushless and the 24v is not a gimmick. There is an extra battery in the pack.

Gets a decent review as well, 4.1 out of 5 here.
https://www.protoolreviews.com/tool...rs-cordless/kobalt-24v-brushless-drill/25184/

And best in its category here.
https://www.protoolreviews.com/buying-guides/best-cordless-drill-head-to-head-review/44984/

 

[ekimneirbo]

They are made by Chervon if that matters. Google it, They make good stuff. All drills are brushless and the 24v is not a gimmick. There is an extra battery in the pack.

Gets a decent review as well, 4.1 out of 5 here.
https://www.protoolreviews.com/tool...rs-cordless/kobalt-24v-brushless-drill/25184/

And best in its category here.
https://www.protoolreviews.com/buying-guides/best-cordless-drill-head-to-head-review/44984/

Great Post......hope everyone reads those reviews

I'm not saying the more expensive drills might not equal the Kobalt but IF they beat it, it would be by a slim margin. It comes with one of those side extension handles BECAUSE this thing can hurt your wrist and hand if it bites hard while drilling. My old Dewalts and Craftsman never came close to doing that. Most of the people wanting a drill are looking for one to use in their home shop. They don't get to bill someone else for the purchase. Also, the chuck is a 1/2" chuck. Paying $50 for a quality battery is much more paletteable than $150. All I can do is keep saying........try it and you'll like it.

NC Rick If you get the Kobalt and try it, come back and give us your opinion of it !

 

[Rabid Badger]

Great Post......hope everyone reads those reviews

I'm not saying the more expensive drills might not equal the Kobalt but IF they beat it, it would be by a slim margin. It comes with one of those side extension handles BECAUSE this thing can hurt your wrist and hand if it bites hard while drilling. My old Dewalts and Craftsman never came close to doing that. Most of the people wanting a drill are looking for one to use in their home shop. They don't get to bill someone else for the purchase. Paying $50 for a quality battery is much more paletteable than $150. All I can do is keep saying........try it and you'll like it.

The Kobalt is a solid tool, but the OP stated that he was looking for a top quality chuck. The Jacobs on the Kobalt just can't compete with a Rohm or Yukiwa.

 

[NC Rick]

The limitation my current drill has with the 1/2” chuck is that 1/16” is the smallest size that will fit. The 1/2” drill in steel story is I can’t push hard enough to do that. The thing that happens, I’m sure to all of us is that with an all purpose tool like these drills get used for unpredictable things. I use it with chucking reamers, taps and to drill small holes. Running a little slow is likely good for tool life but with really small drills, particularly in aluminum I’ll take all the rpms I can to avoid breaking the drill and to not leave too bad a burr on the exit.

 

[pstemari]

I found that to be a problem with most of the keyless chucks found on cordless drills. For some reason, they think they need to put multiple teeth on each jaw, which leaves a a small hole between the jaws when they close. I don't think the M12 Fuel drill has that problem, but I would have to go look at it again to verify. For my old 14.4 volt Milwaukee, I ditched the chuck it came with and replaced it with an NOS US-made Jacobs chuck and never looked back.

As far as I can tell, Hilti is the construction tool equivalent of Snap-On / Mac. Very expensive, but excellent on-site warranty support and delivery service. That's worth a lot more to a company paying subcontractors by the hour than it is for a hobbyist.

One other thing to be cognizant of: the old NiCd and NiMH tools typically had dumb batteries without an on-board charge management chip. That's fine as far as it goes—the nickel based chemistries are less likely to go up in flames if if charged inappropriately—but it does mean that if you discharge the pack too far, you wind up reverse charging the weakest cell, which kills the pack. BTDTBTTSMT. I would avoid making judgments on lithium-ion tools based on the manufacturer's performance with NiCd/NiMH tools.

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