Will the MMatic 215 on 110v do the job?

[jproaster]

Will the MM215 on mig 110v do the job on these brackets to the underside of I beam?

My idea is to attach several of these C shaped brackets to the underside of the I beam, which runs across the front of my coffeeshop above the windows. I will attach 2X10" boards. From these boards I want to drop some new reading lights and hang window shading materials of some kind.

Thanks
John

 

[dr_clyde]

I would stick weld that joint with 3/32” 7018. Your 215 should do that really well.

Overheard structural is not 120v MIG territory IMO, but for the application will probably be ok.

Weld it as hot as you possibly can without tripping the breaker. Use .030 wire.

 

[ekimneirbo]

See, these are the things that always come up where people would be better off if they had bought a 220 machine......but they think they are never going to need to do anything that a 110 can't do.
You can probably make it weld the bracket to the beam if you dwell slightly longer on the beam and slightly less on the bracket so the beam gets enough heat to melt. Get a similar piece of thick metal and try welding a short piece of bracket to it for practice. Welding it overhead will be more difficult than welding on a worktable. Put some weight on it after welding to make sure it will hold . Why do you want to use 2x10 boards to hold reading lights?

Don't want to rub salt in your wound, but this serves as a perfect example to all the people who continually turn a deaf ear when told that they will have times when they need their welder to do thicker things and they swear they won't ever need to.......

 

[jproaster]

See, these are the things that always come up where people would be better off if they had bought a 220 machine......but they think they are never going to need to do anything that a 110 can't do.
You can probably make it weld the bracket to the beam if you dwell slightly longer on the beam and slightly less on the bracket so the beam gets enough heat to melt. Get a similar piece of thick metal and try welding a short piece of bracket to it for practice. Welding it overhead will be more difficult than welding on a worktable. Put some weight on it after welding to make sure it will hold . Why do you want to use 2x10 boards to hold reading lights?

Don't want to rub salt in your wound, but this serves as a perfect example to all the people who continually turn a deaf ear when told that they will have times when they need their welder to do thicker things and they swear they won't ever need to.......

You presume too much. You're reading a lot into my question as if that's my only option.

 

[dr_clyde]

See, these are the things that always come up where people would be better off if they had bought a 220 machine......but they think they are never going to need to do anything that a 110 can't do.
You can probably make it weld the bracket to the beam if you dwell slightly longer on the beam and slightly less on the bracket so the beam gets enough heat to melt. Get a similar piece of thick metal and try welding a short piece of bracket to it for practice. Welding it overhead will be more difficult than welding on a worktable. Put some weight on it after welding to make sure it will hold . Why do you want to use 2x10 boards to hold reading lights?

Don't want to rub salt in your wound, but this serves as a perfect example to all the people who continually turn a deaf ear when told that they will have times when they need their welder to do thicker things and they swear they won't ever need to.......

The 215 is a dual voltage machine.

OP may not have 240v available in the windowsill at his coffee shop.

Site work you are at the mercy of what’s available.

 

[ekimneirbo]

The 215 is a dual voltage machine.

OP may not have 240v available in the windowsill at his coffee shop.

Site work you are at the mercy of what’s available.

My apologies, should have checked but assumed you would only be asking the question because of a lack of 220 volts. Still though there are some issues.
First, by buying the very light portable machine with short leads, he will have to have some type of elevated work table to hold it so he can reach the ceiling in his restaurant. That means he needs to buy a cart ($). Another reason he needs a cart is to hold the welding bottle securely. May be able to cobble something up, but every time he moves to another brace he will have to find a way to move everything.
Second, since he has a restaurant, its hard to believe that he doesn't have 220 volts available somewhere. If he uses 110, he is going to most likely need some type of extension cord to reach a plug. Why not make a 220 extension cord. I have several 220 outlets in my shop but I have a long (30') cord I use most of the time. I can reach every corner of my shop and even quite a ways outside the shop if necessary.
When buying a welder, the logistics of power connection are a consideration. If someones welder is not going to be used in a general shop situation, then its best to insure that you have the needed attachments to use the best abilities of the machine.He may be able to get by this time, but what about future projects? He has a pretty decent machine there, so again my apologies for forgetting the 215 was a multitask/multivolt machine.

 

[jproaster]

ekimneribo,
You bring up some good points about carts, extension cords et al.

What size and type of wire is required to make an extension cord for this machine? How long can I make it? I will say that my panel box to front windows is quite a ways; maybe 60-70 feet.

And I'm actually hoping to build a cart as a first project. My friend's son who's showing me the ropes is a welder in a nuke plant; so he's good. Since I'd like to get the brackets done sooner than later, I can see him welding these for me if necessary.

Thanks
John

 

[Aaron_W]

ekimneribo,
You bring up some good points about carts, extension cords et al.

What size and type of wire is required to make an extension cord for this machine? How long can I make it? I will say that my panel box to front windows is quite a ways; maybe 60-70 feet.

And I'm actually hoping to build a cart as a first project. My friend's son who's showing me the ropes is a welder in a nuke plant; so he's good. Since I'd like to get the brackets done sooner than later, I can see him welding these for me if necessary.

Thanks
John

The manual that came with your machine should give recommended cord size / lengths for use on various sized circuits. Assuming since they are similar in capability the 215 will be the same as my 220. Miller said 50ft 12/3, I bought a good quality 25ft 12/3 cord for mine since I only have to go about 15ft from an outlet and the short cord will gives me a little more margin for error.

I'm not an electrical guy, but since you have to go more than 50 feet, and Miller says 12/3 for 50ft, I'd guess you will need to find a 100ft 10/3 cord to get the most out of it on 120v.

 

[sberry]

dr had the right idea, 3/32 lohy.

 

[ekimneirbo]

ekimneribo,
You bring up some good points about carts, extension cords et al.

What size and type of wire is required to make an extension cord for this machine? How long can I make it? I will say that my panel box to front windows is quite a ways; maybe 60-70 feet.

And I'm actually hoping to build a cart as a first project. My friend's son who's showing me the ropes is a welder in a nuke plant; so he's good. Since I'd like to get the brackets done sooner than later, I can see him welding these for me if necessary.

Thanks
John

You probably need a 30 amp breaker in the box and will need a plug rated to carry at least 30 amps. Need a receptacle that can be mounted somewhere. I have mounted them on the side or bottom of the electric panel when room is available. Need to pull disconnect from meter to insure all current is shut off before working on electric panel. Need a male plug for one end of extension cord and female plug for other end. Depending on how long the extension cord is determines the proper wire size for the cord. Lowes will have a chart and a salesman that can tell you minimum size wire for your needs. My reccommendation is to go 1 or 2 sizes larger than minimum. You need wire that has 3 leads inside.....but it will be called "2" wire. (6-2 would be 6 gage with 2 hot wires and 1 ground/neutral wire) The ground/neutral wire is actually a ground wire that goes back to the electric company wiring and is called a "neutral" wire because many installations will also have a separate ground at the site. Better to make the cable too long than skimp and make it short because it gives you lots of flexibility for doing other jobs. Get the wire that has a black outer coating and is very flexible. I like using the same "plug" that a stove uses, and then you may be able to use the existing outlet for a stove or something in a home or restaurant. You just have to check and see how big the breaker is for the stove to insure its capable. If you do use too much current it should just trip the breaker.

As far as building a cart goes, that is where you might consider a Harbor Freight product. One of my welders was purchased so I can keep 023 wire in it for sheetmetal. Normally would have bought a Miller but because it will be used sparingly and only on light stuff, I bought a different brand because they had a smoking deal on a returned unit. I had an old cabinet I wasn't using, so I made my own cart and used HF wheels on it. It gives you lots of room to store tips and wire and etc. Might find something similar on Craigslist for about $50. I put a steel plate under it to support the bottle and attach the wheels.

 

[sberry]

A 240v plug will be 6-50.

 

[jproaster]

Thanks Dr C. Gonna just stick the brackets. Since I need the brackets done asap and my skills aren't there yet, I'll have my friend do that job. I'm grateful to my friend who helped me set up the 215 today. My practice mig weld beads, while not the prettiest, are a far site better than the tombstone stick.

Thanks to all who share. Though I'm not a kid (57yo), I feel like one as I learn more of the various metal arts and skills.

john

 

[sberry]

I have read many of the manuals for the machines. Not as many Linc as Hobart and Millers. I look them up as they come along. This allows 50 ft of 14 and they call for 12 cord, 25 ft at 120v and 50 at 240. This will depend a bit on the primary circuit but it will run a 3/32 lo hy just dandy with 50 ft on 120.
Lots of 3/32 7018 used in a nuke.

 

[Marctrees]

So... OP JP is a non experienced welder and wants to as one of his first jobs to attach some brackets to hold stuff up that could fall on commercial locations patrons heads.

Am I the only one uncomfortable w that?

Why Weld ?

Looks to me that drilling and throughbolting may be a better option.

Marc

 

[sberry]

I understand welding but from that pic could bolt a board or most else to that beam in a few minutes. Maybe even better some beam clamps.

 

[Marctrees]

Nevertheless... a Coffee shop should have 20 a 120 ckts nearby for use... no need to run to panel.

Afterhours just plug into one w no other load on it.

If needed make up shortest possible temp extension.

Marc

 

[Marctrees]

Yup ... "Maybe even better some beam clamps."

Thar ya go.

Marc

 

[dr_clyde]

So... OP JP is a non experienced welder and wants to as one of his first jobs to attach some brackets to hold stuff up that could fall on commercial locations patrons heads.

Am I the only one uncomfortable w that?

Why Weld ?

Looks to me that drilling and throughbolting may be a better option.

Marc

You apparently missed the bit where he said his skills weren’t up to par yet and was going to have a friend do it.

Welds are fast and easy, why wouldn’t you weld? I know I would.

 

[Marctrees]

Actually he nevr said that the welder friend was doing it.

More of an oversee concept.

You being a real welder would weld it.

My concern is OP doing work in a public place and overhead, no matter the light loads.

If the Friend is at least present, and paying attention, and listening for penetration, etc and not holding anyones beer. I would feel better.

Threads go in different directions... some go on and on about liability, others talk tech about the equipment.

Liability got glossed over this time.

Marc

Marc

 

[dr_clyde]

Thanks Dr C. Gonna just stick the brackets. Since I need the brackets done asap and my skills aren't there yet, I'll have my friend do that job. I'm grateful to my friend who helped me set up the 215 today. My practice mig weld beads, while not the prettiest, are a far site better than the tombstone stick.

Thanks to all who share. Though I'm not a kid (57yo), I feel like one as I learn more of the various metal arts and skills.

john

I’m no English major, but it seemed pretty clear to me.

 

[Marctrees]

I was somehow basing my comments on his talk about "Friend" in the previous posts.

I missed that last one.

I feel better about the job now.

Thank you for the correction.

Marc

 

[Marctrees]

I mean no disrespect to OP... only safety.

I am not a super experienced welder myself... but have enough experience to be aware just cause it stuck can be deceitful.

Marc

 

[Aaron_W]

I mean no disrespect to OP... only safety.

I am not a super experienced welder myself... but have enough experience to be aware just cause it stuck can be deceitful.

Marc

He also talked about his future projects in an earlier thread looking for welder suggestions. Several of the posters also contributed to that thread so had a little advance notice to the OP's situation. There were some issues with drilling and bolting, although I don't recall what those were.

Never hurts to throw down the safety card, better to be told it is covered than not say anything and find out the person had something horrible happen that might have been averted by speaking up.

 

[ekimneirbo]

Thanks Dr C. Gonna just stick the brackets. Since I need the brackets done asap and my skills aren't there yet, I'll have my friend do that job. I'm grateful to my friend who helped me set up the 215 today. My practice mig weld beads, while not the prettiest, are a far site better than the tombstone stick.

Thanks to all who share. Though I'm not a kid (57yo), I feel like one as I learn more of the various metal arts and skills.

john

Learning to weld is like learning to read, once you get some basic skills it opens up a whole new worlds to you. Keep asking questions. Everyone who can weld (or read) at all, went thru the same learning process....ABC
Just don't be afraid to ask. Most people are willing to help, but again its just like going to school, some teachers can be assh**es too, but you still learn something.

 

[MoonRise]

He's not welding the 'structure' itself, but he IS proposing to weld TO the steel structure.

And that I-beam is part of the structure of that building.

And thus AWS D1.1 "Structural Welding Code - Steel" applies.

In ALL of its glory.

D1.1 does not recognize GMAW short-circuit transfer mode welds as a "prequalified joint detail".

And a MM215 on 120V input power can only do short-circuit transfer mode. Just not enough input power to do spray transfer mode.

Overhead welding (4F) in GMAW spray transfer mode? Nope. Puddle is too fluid, unless you go to pulsed spray.

Eyeballing that beam flange thickness and it looks like ~ 1/4". The material is -probably- Group I (mild steel). But it could also be Group V ASTM A514 quenched and tempered steel. My eye can't tell from a picture. And the welding procedures are VERY different for Group V compared to Group I.

So far, he'd have to go and get a qualified WPS with all of the "essential variables" defined and also the sample(s) tested. First testing requirement for the WPS qualification is radiographic or ultrasonic testing of the samples to demonstrate their soundness, and then the sample(s) move onto mechanical testing. Unless he finds a firm who already has a qualified WPS covering his specific situation.

Or just put some beam clamps on it and be done with it.

I'm all for welding things together WHEN welding is the 'right' approach. Or one of several valid approaches to a situation.

This is not really one of those situations. IMNSHO.