davethorik
Well-known member
Can you access the pin from the underside, with a long punch? I'd try that before I tried "turning" the pin.




I picked up this Reed 404 1/2 R over the weekend. My question is how easy is it to brake the pin on top trying to free it up ? I haven't touched it yet. I was going to spray Kroil on it for a week before I try anything. I was going to heat the pin up a few times before I try to turn it. Is this good or bad ?
I have a Starrett 923 I've been searching a swivel base for...curious if that one would fit if you end up parting out

I picked up this Reed 404 1/2 R over the weekend. My question is how easy is it to brake the pin on top trying to free it up ? I haven't touched it yet. I was going to spray Kroil on it for a week before I try anything. I was going to heat the pin up a few times before I try to turn it. Is this good or bad ?
A jack screw works well for this; use a couple to hold the top jaw down and use the jack screw inside the body to push the pin upward. The constant pressure seems to work better than hammering on it with a punch and reduces that chances of breaking something. Just be cautious as the pin can really come flying out of there when it comes loose.![]()
A jack screw works well for this; use a couple to hold the top jaw down and use the jack screw inside the body to push the pin upward. The constant pressure seems to work better than hammering on it with a punch and reduces that chances of breaking something. Just be cautious as the pin can really come flying out of there when it comes loose.![]()


I can not recall which member who was using a jack screw had the pin shoot straight up in the air with great force like a bullet. So using a face shield and generally not being in the way of the trajectory of the pin might be a good idea.
. I hope others here can learn from my lack of respect for the force involved. It would have been bad if it even hit me on the way back down!I’ve been collecting these little prentiss jewelers for a few years. I believe this to be nearly a complete set not including the nickel plated variation for each model.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I figured I’d add these here just in case anyone else wanted to see them.
I figured I’d add these here just in case anyone else wanted to see them.


I almost pulled these guy over to lectured them about cheater bars but then reason took over.
Sent from my iPad using The Garage Journal mobile app

dfb, i feel bad but another member asked first when i put it on vice parts thread. If this repair doesn't work out i should offer it to that member first. Salvage workshop is to blame for me not parting it out immediately![]()
Mr. WI finally finished my badly abused Wilton 9450. This vise was broken, seized, welded, and buried in the mud for a number of years. The jaws had angle iron welded over the top and all three collar screws broken off. The entire body of the vise looked as though it had been worked over with a small sledge hammer. The anvil area was almost worn off. I almost parted it out but decided to see if it could be saved.
I e-tanked the whole thing to start. I was able to get the dynamic jaw out and go to work with a wire wheel. I decided that with all the damage and welding on this vise it would never be suitable for heavy work again. I came up with the idea to adapt it for my gun bench.
I ordered a new rod for the handle and added some threaded steel knobs from Mcmaster-Carr. At 1-7/8" they were larger than I would have chosen. I do not have a metal lathe so I had to order the knobs by what I could thread the 5/8" rod to. Next I drilled and tapped the center of the lead screw for a parker style set screw, spring, and brass slug. I drilled and tapped the angle iron for some aluminum jaw inserts that I thought would be more suited for gun parts.
Once I flap wheeled the body of the vise it took a surprisingly little amount of filler to get it smooth again. Overall I am happy with the finished product. While the Frankenstein looking jaws are not correct it has grown on me and I will get many years of use out of it.
MX1927 Chas Parker 375 I picked up for $60.
Looks like at one point someone really clamped on down on it and bent the handle, snapped the entire back off and snapped off part of the post for back swivel post. Also has a small piece chipped off the dovetail for the nut, but doesn't seem to impact anything.
The braze job looks pretty solid, and well built up. But the adjustable jaw was welded. The weld to the body looks good, but they added a support plate inside and that weld is full of porosity.
Plan is to clean it up, give it a paint job and just use it as is and replace my Record #6. Not keen on cutting a triangle out of my workbench, but I think this vise is worth it.
But I guess if the vise is not excessively stressed, it should serve you well.KMScott, was looking at the google sheet with all the vices, and noticed that there wasn't a Record 36p that had been posted. So here is mine that I cleaned up and put on a mobile post.
Probably the most frustrating part is that the jaw screws are in rough shape, but Record at the time used 5/16-26 screws which are a British Standard Cycle/Brass specification. If I ever have a problem, might need to find some special M8x1.0 screws which is a one time compatible thread.
Did you design and fabricate it yourself?MX
That is an interesting find and personally I find the 1927 date stamp very curious. I have three Parkers (204,974 and 955) and do not recall a date stamp on any of them but I guess it it is possible during the cleanup (before painting them) I missed the date stamp. So I am curious if there are other Parkers with date stamp out there.
I have never seen a Parker with a date stamp on on it. I did find a man's name
"M.J. Hicks" stamped on the 974 I am working on presently.