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MHF all the way panel to panel?

cobragrover

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Going from house panel to detached garage panel underground. Was going to use MHF wire all the way. That means the conduit has to go all the way to the house panel. I don’t know if that can be done without cutting out the drywall and patching. Is there a better way?
 
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wyliesdiesels

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Yes MHF needs to be in conduit indoors.

Without seeing what you have its hard to say.

Can you use an LB to go straight into the back of the panel?
 

Crazyjake8493

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Any pictures of what you'll be working with indoors?

Your options would be:
1- Run MHF all the way from panel to panel, of course running it in conduit inside the house.
2- Run MHF to the exterior wall of the house and transition to SER for the indoor run, which does not need to be in conduit. Transitioning from MHF to SER would require properly-wrapped split bolts or clear tap / Polaris connectors.


Also, be sure that the wire you have is in fact MHF. It should be black-black-white-green, and have an RHH/RHW-2 rating for use indoors. I only mention this because I've seen guys buy what they thought was MHF but was in fact URD cable not listed for use indoors, conduit or otherwise.
 
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cobragrover

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I am going from the LB on the pole barn directly into the back of the box in the pole barn. I talked to a electrician today and, like you,he told me to use SER in the crawl space and into the house panel. The transition from MHF to SER is not quite clear. I thought there would be a junction box with lugs where you could make the connections. I will do some google searches. I’m not familiar with the connectors you mentioned. The wire is MHF. Thanks
 

larry4406

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...The transition from MHF to SER is not quite clear. I thought there would be a junction box with lugs where you could make the connections. I will do some google searches. I’m not familiar with the connectors you mentioned...

Here is my transition from SER to XHHW in a 12x12x4" junction box using "Polaris Type" connectors. These connectors I purchased from Morris Products as they were cheaper. Shipped very fast. These connectors are slick! Other methods are to use "split bolts" and proper tape (cheaper but more time and effort).
https://www.morrisproducts.com/pc_c...B53748&pc_id=04581668916D40B2A3F849BF22B53748
 

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Notgrownup

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Here is my transition from SER to XHHW in a 12x12x4" junction box using "Polaris Type" connectors. These connectors I purchased from Morris Products as they were cheaper. Shipped very fast. These connectors are slick! Other methods are to use "split bolts" and proper tape (cheaper but more time and effort).
https://www.morrisproducts.com/pc_c...B53748&pc_id=04581668916D40B2A3F849BF22B53748

Those connections are the cats meow ...very nice, I’ve never seen them.
 

Notgrownup

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I was going to split bolt mine but I decided to buya whole run instead. This was for a Generator hook up though.
Sorry to hi jack the thread.
 
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cobragrover

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I'm going to price the polaris type connectors, they look very simple to install. The split bolt have been around forever but all the taping looks like something a plugger would do. Please don't pile on, I know it's perfectly acceptable when done correctly. They will be in a junction box and never be disturbed.
 
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Bert_

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They also make terminal boxes. Like this 100a version
 

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MattT

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I'm going to price the polaris type connectors, they look very simple to install. The split bolt have been around forever but all the taping looks like something a plugger would do. Please don't pile on, I know it's perfectly acceptable when done correctly. They will be in a junction box and never be disturbed.

When comparing prices don't forget to add the proper tapes to the split bolt column. It'll probably add $30ish.

Also the polaris type are a lot more DIY friendly. Properly tightening & taping split bolts ain't exactly rocket science but it's something some "electricians" screw up.
 

grounded-b

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larry4406

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Why no locknut on 2" PVC with the SER cable?

Steve

Good catch!

With the exception of the bottom right feed, all of the 2" conduits have both a locknut and a bushing.

On the bottom right conduit where the XHHW goes down I installed the bushing to protect the wire for the pull. The bushing and the locknut were interfering on the terminal adapter and I could not get the bushing threads to fully engage (I think the lock nut was not fully tight prior to backfill). So, I took off the locknut and installed the bushing for the pull. It currently is installed with bushing only (no lock nut). If my inspector *******, the Polaris Type connectors are easy enough to undue and then install the locknut and set the bushing in place.
 

larry4406

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When comparing prices don't forget to add the proper tapes to the split bolt column. It'll probably add $30ish.

Also the polaris type are a lot more DIY friendly. Properly tightening & taping split bolts ain't exactly rocket science but it's something some "electricians" screw up.

That was my take as well. Thus I went with the Polaris Type and the ones I linked to I thought were reasonably priced.
 
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