GFCI brand

[SGKent]

This house was built in 1979. GFCI wasn't required all thru this home when it was built. Over the years I have added them in outside locations, the garage, bathrooms etc., but was thinking it might be worth just replacing all the wall sockets with them. I'll have to check each circuit to mark what is on it, 15A or 20A etc.. Some in the house are set up so the first GFCI provides the load for the others on that circuit - which is kinda a PITA when a GFCI goes bad and other sockets fail one has to remember which GFCI is the one for those sockets. So I thought I'd just replace them all and not use any to provide a load. House is all copper wiring.

1) What residential GFCI sockets are the best for the money these days? Leviton contractor packs of 10 each?

2) Let's say I take out a 20 amp socket but the circuit breaker for that circuit is 15A. That should probably be a 15A GFCI, right?

3) Let's say a breaker is 20 amp, should that GFCI be a 15 A, or a 20 A GFCI if there are other sockets on that circuit? I have no way of knowing if the PO changed any sockets in the house. He did some pretty weird things.

 

[nadogail]

GFCI Receptacles seem to come in several different price points.

The least expensive inspire the lowest level of confidence in my mind.

I buy mine at Home Depot. I am fond of the ones that have a built in indicator that glows when all is good.

 

[jeffmattero76]

There is absolutely no need to replace each receptacle with a GFCI.

You should have them on the first receptacle for each run in locations that are within 6 feet if a water source, such as your bathroom and kitchen, as well as all circuits that lead to receptacles in your garage and basement, as well as any outdoor receptacles.

At each of the GFCI installations, the incoming wires should be hooked to the LINE side of the GFCI. The wires that lead downstream would be connected to the LOAD side of that first GFCI. Doing it that way protects ALL of the downstream receptacles on that circuit. It should not be confusing, since, if one of your kitchen counter top receptacles is not working, the GFCI controlling that receptacle will likely be on the same countertop. Similarly, if a garage receptacle stops working, look to the GFCI installed upstream of the garage receptacles.

You can use a 15 amp GFCI on both 12/x and 14/x wires. The 20 amp GFCI's are more expensive, and I have yet to find an appliance with the 20 amp pattern (one blade of the plug vertical and one horizontal), so I just use the 15 amp version.

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[BigGarage]

This house was built in 1979. GFCI wasn't required all thru this home when it was built. Over the years I have added them in outside locations, the garage, bathrooms etc., but was thinking it might be worth just replacing all the wall sockets with them. I'll have to check each circuit to mark what is on it, 15A or 20A etc.. Some in the house are set up so the first GFCI provides the load for the others on that circuit - which is kinda a PITA when a GFCI goes bad and other sockets fail one has to remember which GFCI is the one for those sockets. So I thought I'd just replace them all and not use any to provide a load. House is all copper wiring.

1) What residential GFCI sockets are the best for the money these days? Leviton contractor packs of 10 each?

2) Let's say I take out a 20 amp socket but the circuit breaker for that circuit is 15A. That should probably be a 15A GFCI, right?

3) Let's say a breaker is 20 amp, should that GFCI be a 15 A, or a 20 A GFCI if there are other sockets on that circuit? I have no way of knowing if the PO changed any sockets in the house. He did some pretty weird things.

If you are intent on protecting all of the outlets in the house you should just get a GFCI circuit breaker for each circuit in your panel. They obviously cost more than a single GFCI outlet but they will protect the entire circuit. Why do all the work installing separate outlets when you can install one breaker and protect the entire circuit.

Here's a link to one https://www.homedepot.com/p/Siemens...VAtbACh39PgsCEAQYAiABEgJPhvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

Dennis

 

[BigGarage]

There is absolutely no need to replace each receptacle with a GFCI.

You should have them on the first receptacle for each run in locations that are within 6 feet if a water source, such as your bathroom and kitchen, as well as all circuits that lead to receptacles in your garage and basement, as well as any outdoor receptacles.

True enough but if he has enough circuits it would be easier and cheaper in the long run to just upgrade to GFCI circuit breakers.

Dennis

 

[alfredeneuman]

This house was built in 1979.

In another thread you said that "When the house was built GFCI outlets didn't even exist."
They've been in production since the early '70s.
The patent was issued in 1968

 

[Jim greengo]

There is absolutely no need to replace each receptacle with a GFCI.

You should have them on the first receptacle for each run in locations that are within 6 feet if a water source, such as your bathroom and kitchen, as well as all circuits that lead to receptacles in your garage and basement, as well as any outdoor receptacles.

At each of the GFCI installations, the incoming wires should be hooked to the LINE side of the GFCI. The wires that lead downstream would be connected to the LOAD side of that first GFCI. Doing it that way protects ALL of the downstream receptacles on that circuit. It should not be confusing, since, if one of your kitchen counter top receptacles is not working, the GFCI controlling that receptacle will likely be on the same countertop. Similarly, if a garage receptacle stops working, look to the GFCI installed upstream of the garage receptacles.

You can use a 15 amp GFCI on both 12/x and 14/x wires. The 20 amp GFCI's are more expensive, and I have yet to find an appliance with the 20 amp pattern (one blade of the plug vertical and one horizontal), so I just use the 15 amp version.

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[Jim greengo]

True enough but if he has enough circuits it would be easier and cheaper in the long run to just upgrade to GFCI circuit breakers.

Dennis

That works also,depending on how things are wired in the house.

 

[Jim greengo]

In another thread you said that "When the house was built GFCI outlets didn't even exist."
They've been in production since the early '70s.
The patent was issued in 1968

Well they werent as common in a lot of areas when his house was built anyway.

 

[Showkey]

Be careful.......there not required in every location. ( maybe for a good reason)

Get a nuisance ( aka ghost) trip on refrigerator or freezer and come back from vacation to a real mess.

Many other threads and literally a 1000 posts on the topic.

 

[Kaizen]

If you are looking at spending money you should look at dual purpose afci breakers. They do both and are current code for most areas of home. About two times as expensive as good gfci


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[wyliesdiesels]

Dont need GFCI protection on EVERY outlet.

Also, 15a GFCI have 20a passthrough.

Only reason to get 20a GFCI is if you have utilization equipment with 20a attachment plugs.

 

[SGKent]

In another thread you said that "When the house was built GFCI outlets didn't even exist."
They've been in production since the early '70s.
The patent was issued in 1968

In this thread I said they weren't required. The requirements for them to be used did not exist in this county when this house was build in 1979.

 

[SGKent]

Dont need GFCI protection on EVERY outlet.

Also, 15a GFCI have 20a passthrough.

Only reason to get 20a GFCI is if you have utilization equipment with 20a attachment plugs.

Thanks Wylie - Thank you everyone else.

I considered new breakers but is is a GE panel that uses the thin THQP thin series breakers for most circuits, and not the big wide breakers. Unless someone makes arc fault/ground fault THQP breakers that isn't a possible solution without hiring an electrician to replace the whole service panel. It is exterior and within siding so I would have to start pulling siding off to be able to replace it as well. What might have been a $300 upgrade would turn into a $5000 upgrade where I would never be here long enough to get the benefit from it.

I'll follow the 6' water advice and replace any I missed that are within 6' of water but I think most of those were already done. I don't want to daisy chain sockets off of a GFCI because when one trips the whole line trips. If it happens 10 years apart then I have to remember, where was that GFCI in the house that controlled this socket. They aren't always in the same room. Tract housing.

 

[cybrdyke]

First, they are receptacles. Sockets are the things that you screw light bulbs into.
Having all the receptacles GFCI is the worst idea I've heard in a long time.
You said this...which is kinda a PITA when a GFCI goes bad and other sockets fail one has to remember which GFCI is the one for those sockets. So, if they are ALL GFCI's, and one goes bad, how on earth will you know which one went bad? And if one trips, you're going to have to look at every receptacle on that circuit to find the GFCI that tripped. This seems crazy to me. Am I missing something?
CD

 

[PCustoms]

I wired a bar a few years ago, every outlet was a GFCI wired line side (none to load).

Made sense in a bar, as if the blender sped working the tender had to find that outlet and reset.

For a house it seems like a ridiculous, expensive pain in the ***. Figure out your circuits, wire a GFCI that controls any downstream outlets ("load" side) within distance of water and be done.

No reason whatsoever to have GFCI across the counter in a home kitchen, let alone bedrooms.

 

[BigGarage]

This house was built in 1979. GFCI wasn't required all thru this home when it was built. Over the years I have added them in outside locations, the garage, bathrooms etc., but was thinking it might be worth just replacing all the wall sockets with them. I'll have to check each circuit to mark what is on it, 15A or 20A etc.. Some in the house are set up so the first GFCI provides the load for the others on that circuit - which is kinda a PITA when a GFCI goes bad and other sockets fail one has to remember which GFCI is the one for those sockets. So I thought I'd just replace them all and not use any to provide a load. House is all copper wiring.

1) What residential GFCI sockets are the best for the money these days? Leviton contractor packs of 10 each?

2) Let's say I take out a 20 amp socket but the circuit breaker for that circuit is 15A. That should probably be a 15A GFCI, right?

3) Let's say a breaker is 20 amp, should that GFCI be a 15 A, or a 20 A GFCI if there are other sockets on that circuit? I have no way of knowing if the PO changed any sockets in the house. He did some pretty weird things.

First, they are receptacles. Sockets are the things that you screw light bulbs into.

CD

I've been waiting for this. No offense intended SGKent

Dennis

 

[SGKent]

While it may be commonly referred to as an outlet or receptacle in your trade, the Leviton catalog, and generally in the states, worldwide it is known as a plug and socket. Please see the image below and Wikipedia.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/AC_power_plugs_and_sockets

View media item 96529

 

[Jim greengo]

While it may be commonly referred to as an outlet or receptacle in your trade, the Leviton catalog, and generally in the states, worldwide it is known as a plug and socket. Please see the image below and Wikipedia.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/AC_power_plugs_and_sockets

View media item 96529

That's why we always called it plug and switching on finish work.

 

[AntonLargiader]

Wiki isn't any kind of authoritative reference on terminology. It's just whatever terminology the dude who wrote that particular article uses.

Government codes, industry and manufacturer publications... those are more meaningful.

 

[AntonLargiader]

... So, if they are ALL GFCI's, and one goes bad, how on earth will you know which one went bad?

The same one that you noticed doesn't have power. It's the only one that is affected when they are all wired on the line side (which is the only way you'd wire multiple GFCIs on the same branch). Unless I'm missing the real gist of your question.

 

[alfredeneuman]

While it may be commonly referred to as an outlet or receptacle in your trade, the Leviton catalog

I've got the entire Leviton catalog on a .pdf.
A socket is described as a light socket or lampholder, and a plug is something you plug into a receptacle.

 

[wyliesdiesels]

While it may be commonly referred to as an outlet or receptacle in your trade, the Leviton catalog, and generally in the states, worldwide it is known as a plug and socket. Please see the image below and Wikipedia.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/AC_power_plugs_and_sockets

Its laughable that youre referencing wikipedia for electrical terminology.

And its not that its commonly referred to those things in the trade, its that the official sources for electrical refer to them as those things.

Did you think to reference an official source on electrical such as article 100/definitions in the NFPA 70 aka the NEC code book.

Attachment Plug. A device that, by insertion in a receptacle, establishes a connection between the conductors of the attached flexible cord and the conductors connected permanently to the receptacle.

Receptacle. A receptacle is a contact device installed at the out for the connection of an attachment plug....

Outlet. A point on the wiring system at which current is taken to supply utilization equipment.

Wiki isn't any kind of authoritative reference on terminology. It's just whatever terminology the dude who wrote that particular article uses.

Government codes, industry and manufacturer publications... those are more meaningful.

this ^^^^

 

[mm08822]

Google NEMA Plug Configurations. Plugs have a "P" suffix. Recepts have a "R" suffix.

 

[SGKent]

you know I don't give a damn what anyone calls them. They were referred to as a plug and socket for damn near a century. I was born in 1950 and you put a plug into a wall socket, or screw a light bulb into a light socket. A brook, creek, and a stream are the same thing. A stoop and steps leading up to the house are the same thing. A kerb and a curb are the same. Color and Colour are the same. Gray and Grey are the same. Call it what you want.

 

[alfredeneuman]

you know I don't give a damn what anyone calls them.

You gave enough damn to look up and post a Wikipedia article to support your views

 

[sberry]

If you think you have trouble figuring it out now wait till there are several on the same circuit. I on the first is the way its sposed to be done.