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The VISES of Garage Journal

chrisnazzy

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Joined
Apr 20, 2013
Messages
1,671
Location
Arizona
I finished up the Craftsman 5184 this weekend. I love this little vise! It is also my first Reed. Wow I can see why there are so many fans on here. That front split ring is a very interesting design. None of my other vises with the cast in jaws have quite the contrast visible in the metals. Thanks to all those on here that provided the information on this somewhat rare vise.

Mr. W

Very nice restoration! Care to share your process for refinishing the Craftsman Heritage badge? Were you able to remove it to refinish? If it didn't come off and you were able to achieve that result, my hat's off to you.

I am just about to paint my Craftsman 5195 and I didn't have any luck removing the badge as I'm afraid to pry on it any more than I have. I've seen someone's process for refinishing one off the vise but I had pretty much decided I was going to mask around it and leave it bare. I'd talked myself into feeling that would be unique and sufficient but after seeing yours I'd really like to try to refinish it right. Thanks.5a28d53556c2f020a59854f7cfd97070.jpg

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Mr. Wonderful

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Jan 15, 2018
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Pacific Northwest
Mr. W

Very nice restoration! Care to share your process for refinishing the Craftsman Heritage badge? Were you able to remove it to refinish? If it didn't come off and you were able to achieve that result, my hat's off to you.

I am just about to paint my Craftsman 5195 and I didn't have any luck removing the badge as I'm afraid to pry on it any more than I have. I've seen someone's process for refinishing one off the vise but I had pretty much decided I was going to mask around it and leave it bare. I'd talked myself into feeling that would be unique and sufficient but after seeing yours I'd really like to try to refinish it right. Thanks

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Chris,

Not to put myself out there as better than I am. I put my badge in the hot simple green and it took all of the paint off:mad:. I am trying to figure out how to fix it as well. That is a decal I bought on Ebay unfortunately. I had to do the same on my 5197. I saved both metal badges for future work.
 

mike_paxton

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Joined
Dec 15, 2013
Messages
905
Picked up a Charles Parker 974 at barn sale on Saturday.

Mike
 

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Mslund1

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Joined
Feb 9, 2019
Messages
133
Location
Michigan
Finished up the C2 I picked up a week ago.

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Outlawmws

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Joined
Aug 9, 2011
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39,285
Location
The Badlands
Hey, just looking for parts for a Wilton Shop King #13-633. Need a clip on the front jaw on the leadscrew, jaw inserts/plates and the swivel knob on the base. Please let me know if there are any ideas.

Thanks,

There is a Vise parts swap thread that is more appropriate to your post.

Not sure if Dr Scott (knscott) makes your jaws or not.
 

Productbob

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 10, 2018
Messages
414
Location
ny
was out of touch for a few days and just got caught up on pages of outstanding vise pickups and restorations! Great stuff :thumbup:

got the last gunk off the group I picked up a month ago and moved them down to the basement. put the 6"'ers on one table where they hopefully can stay for awhile; Starrett 926, Athol 626, Parker 107, Fulton 13 and the Columbian 206.
The lighting is poor, sorry.
 

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Smitty

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Sep 4, 2018
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2,409
Location
USA
Nice lineup Bob, all the heavy hitters on one bench. It reminds me of Murders Row.
 

mike_paxton

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Joined
Dec 15, 2013
Messages
905
Had a Walker Turner Driver Line drill press and a wood lathe.

Was surprised when picked up this little clamp-on vise when sticker indicated it was a Walker Turner Driver Line vise.

Mike
 

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chrisnazzy

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Joined
Apr 20, 2013
Messages
1,671
Location
Arizona
Chris,

Not to put myself out there as better than I am. I put my badge in the hot simple green and it took all of the paint off:mad:. I am trying to figure out how to fix it as well. That is a decal I bought on Ebay unfortunately. I had to do the same on my 5197. I saved both metal badges for future work.
No worries. I give you points for the creativity to get the vises looking great and saving the original badges for a later date. Heck I've got two Birtman tags tucked away in my toolbox for now.

I'm confident I could refurbish the tag if I could just get it off without damaging it. I think I'm going to have to try again.

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1NRO

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Joined
Aug 5, 2010
Messages
101
Location
oop North
If you can cut a slot into the drive rivet with a dremel cutting disc it should hopefully come out with a slotted screwdriver.
 

Shiftless

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Joined
Mar 9, 2014
Messages
14,553
Location
East Bay SFO
If you can cut a slot into the drive rivet with a dremel cutting disc it should hopefully come out with a slotted screwdriver.

That sound pretty risky. Has anybody here succeeded in doing that? I’d be concerned that any significant cut through even part of the head and a twist with a small screwdriver would result in a sheared off head and a stuck screw in the tiny little hole. They don’t make microscopic easy outs do they? :)
 

PghJKB

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Joined
Oct 13, 2012
Messages
490
Location
Industrial Heartland
That sound pretty risky. Has anybody here succeeded in doing that? I’d be concerned that any significant cut through even part of the head and a twist with a small screwdriver would result in a sheared off head and a stuck screw in the tiny little hole. They don’t make microscopic easy outs do they? :)

I agree.

Here is another risky (IMHO less risky than the Dremel) method.

GOOGLE "rivet removing drill bit".

I have the set manufactured by Aircraft Spruce and Specialty. They work, but I strongly recommend using them in a drill press. They can wander a bit when using a hand drill.

JKB
 

1NRO

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Joined
Aug 5, 2010
Messages
101
Location
oop North
That sound pretty risky. Has anybody here succeeded in doing that? I’d be concerned that any significant cut through even part of the head and a twist with a small screwdriver would result in a sheared off head and a stuck screw in the tiny little hole. They don’t make microscopic easy outs do they? :)

I've done it many times, I like to fix up wood work machines and it's a common task when doing that as the thick castings are rarely drilled right through and I'd don't like being responsible for distorted badges. Needs a steady hand admittedly. The times the head might break there's then the need to nibble away at the head with the mini cutting disc until such time as badge becomes free. Once the badge is out the way you'll then need to drill out the drive rivets shank ready for a nice new one.
 

honza.vosalik

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Joined
Feb 27, 2016
Messages
882
Location
Missouri
Speaking on unique vises...

Back in December 2018 I bid on an interesting vise on a Czech auction site. It was a 4" vise with CFROH marks on it. I negotiated shipping with the guy and he sent it. 3 months later the vise still wasn't anywhere. Then tracking said the addressee was unknown while it showed up in customs. What?! They didn't even attempt to deliver it since it didn't make it out of customs. Then it was sent back and the post office wanted a good chunk of money from the seller to give the vise back to him. I just told him to let it go and was disappointed. Tracking also said it was damaged, I assume he didn't pack it well and address got damaged on the package.

I came across a second CFROH vise after that, a 5". This time I chose a different strategy. I had it shipped to a friend of mine in Czech. He agreed to ship it to me. With the vise being around 26kg (55 pounds), he wasn't happy to take it to the post office. Finally after several months he shipped it through Fedex last week and yesterday it showed up.
It sure is a unique vise! The jaws (simple rectangle shape) are just pressed in the pins, no screws. It's got some character, the front view shows the sides are not symmetrical.

In the mean time someone here mentioned CFROH stands for Carl Froh. It's a German vise. Possibly pre-WW2?
 

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honza.vosalik

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882
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More pictures. I'm not sure yet what I'll end up doing with the vise yet. Keeping it original is cool, but restoring it with new jaws and nice new black paint with red letters would look cool too.
 

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1NRO

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Aug 5, 2010
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101
Location
oop North
That's a goodly chunk of vise, I like. There's one on UK eBay but he has it listed as a record and it's more money than I'd like to pay, maybe one day I'll get my chance.
 

ed4banger

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Joined
May 28, 2016
Messages
470
Location
Virginia
Mr. W

Very nice restoration! Care to share your process for refinishing the Craftsman Heritage badge? Were you able to remove it to refinish? If it didn't come off and you were able to achieve that result, my hat's off to you.

I am just about to paint my Craftsman 5195 and I didn't have any luck removing the badge as I'm afraid to pry on it any more than I have. I've seen someone's process for refinishing one off the vise but I had pretty much decided I was going to mask around it and leave it bare. I'd talked myself into feeling that would be unique and sufficient but after seeing yours I'd really like to try to refinish it right. Thanks.5a28d53556c2f020a59854f7cfd97070.jpg

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

I have removed quite a few of these, and prying up on the badge is NOT the way to do it. I use a wood chisel that I narrowed so that it will easily fit within the casting slot. I do not initially try and pry under the pin, I merely tap each pin head from one side, and then the other repeatedly. The pin will eventually begin to work its way out to the point you can get under the head to pull it. As far as badge refinishing, actually very easy since it has surfaces at different levels. After I soda blast to strip, I paint the various depressed surfaces as desired, then drag the badge across a sheet of 1500 or 2000 grit paper to clean up any slopped paint and polish the highlights. Here is a pic of one i did.
 

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Mr. Wonderful

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+1 on the wood chisel! That's how I removed mine. Back and forth with light taps. I don't think I have nearly the steady hands to do paint like that but I'm going to give it a try. VERY nice work Ed!
 

chrisnazzy

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Joined
Apr 20, 2013
Messages
1,671
Location
Arizona
I have removed quite a few of these, and prying up on the badge is NOT the way to do it. I use a wood chisel that I narrowed so that it will easily fit within the casting slot. I do not initially try and pry under the pin, I merely tap each pin head from one side, and then the other repeatedly. The pin will eventually begin to work its way out to the point you can get under the head to pull it. As far as badge refinishing, actually very easy since it has surfaces at different levels. After I soda blast to strip, I paint the various depressed surfaces as desired, then drag the badge across a sheet of 1500 or 2000 grit paper to clean up any slopped paint and polish the highlights. Here is a pic of one i did.
Thank you sir! Your process for refinishing these badges was the one I remembered and wanted to try. I'll try your method of loosening the pin. Thanks for the tip!

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Chevota Guy

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Joined
Aug 29, 2019
Messages
90
Location
Palm Springs CA
Thanks to ed4banger I was able to get my vintage Versa Vise disassembled. I managed to strip it (man I MISS methylene chloride paint strippers), give it a thorough cleaning and de-rusting. Next is to lightly touch up the jaw edges on the belt sander and then it'll be ready for paint, lube and assembly. This is one cool little vise.

View media item 96940
 

ed4banger

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Joined
May 28, 2016
Messages
470
Location
Virginia
Thanks to ed4banger I was able to get my vintage Versa Vise disassembled. I managed to strip it (man I MISS methylene chloride paint strippers), give it a thorough cleaning and de-rusting. Next is to lightly touch up the jaw edges on the belt sander and then it'll be ready for paint, lube and assembly. This is one cool little vise.

Was my pleasure....That one looking good, I'm doing two myself right now, they will be heading to ebay when finished.....
 

Mr. Wonderful

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Joined
Jan 15, 2018
Messages
1,776
Location
Pacific Northwest
I came across this vise for sale. I was wondering if anyone had any info on it or a possible manufacturer? Its Edison in Seattle. I could find nothing on the spreadsheet.
 

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bigmaq

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Joined
Jul 31, 2019
Messages
65
Location
New York
Period-Correct Vise Mounting Bolts?

I’d like to mount my Chas Parker 973 1/2 with appropriate “period-correct” mounting bolts. The shiny hex head bolts don’t really work for a nicely restored, refinished, repainted vintage vise. Can I cut a hex head into a square? Should I blue a regular hex head? Or square it then blue it? Don’t really want to paint it.

Any thoughts?
 

jrobb316

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Joined
May 18, 2014
Messages
1,377
Location
WI
Period-Correct Vise Mounting Bolts?

I’d like to mount my Chas Parker 973 1/2 with appropriate “period-correct” mounting bolts. The shiny hex head bolts don’t really work for a nicely restored, refinished, repainted vintage vise. Can I cut a hex head into a square? Should I blue a regular hex head? Or square it then blue it? Don’t really want to paint it.

Any thoughts?

Go visit a real hardware store, ie NOT Home Depot. They have square head bolts.
 

jrobb316

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Joined
May 18, 2014
Messages
1,377
Location
WI
Speaking on unique vises...

Back in December 2018 I bid on an interesting vise on a Czech auction site. It was a 4" vise with CFROH marks on it. I negotiated shipping with the guy and he sent it. 3 months later the vise still wasn't anywhere. Then tracking said the addressee was unknown while it showed up in customs. What?! They didn't even attempt to deliver it since it didn't make it out of customs. Then it was sent back and the post office wanted a good chunk of money from the seller to give the vise back to him. I just told him to let it go and was disappointed. Tracking also said it was damaged, I assume he didn't pack it well and address got damaged on the package.

I came across a second CFROH vise after that, a 5". This time I chose a different strategy. I had it shipped to a friend of mine in Czech. He agreed to ship it to me. With the vise being around 26kg (55 pounds), he wasn't happy to take it to the post office. Finally after several months he shipped it through Fedex last week and yesterday it showed up.
It sure is a unique vise! The jaws (simple rectangle shape) are just pressed in the pins, no screws. It's got some character, the front view shows the sides are not symmetrical.

In the mean time someone here mentioned CFROH stands for Carl Froh. It's a German vise. Possibly pre-WW2?

Very neat, I like it!
 

ed4banger

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Joined
May 28, 2016
Messages
470
Location
Virginia
Period-Correct Vise Mounting Bolts?

I’d like to mount my Chas Parker 973 1/2 with appropriate “period-correct” mounting bolts. The shiny hex head bolts don’t really work for a nicely restored, refinished, repainted vintage vise. Can I cut a hex head into a square? Should I blue a regular hex head? Or square it then blue it? Don’t really want to paint it.

Any thoughts?

McMaster-Carr sells square head, if that is what you want. Many of us probably have some laying around because we never throw anything away :)
 
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bigmaq

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Joined
Jul 31, 2019
Messages
65
Location
New York
Hmmm good point. $10 a piece is steep though. Maybe I’ll start with blueing a hex head first and see how that looks.
 

va.grouseman

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Joined
Mar 26, 2011
Messages
4,965
Location
Southern-Central VA.
All the Square Head bolts I see are low-strength only....



Ed4banger is right.---Won't take much strength to anchor a 3 1/2'' Parker.---And yes, most square heads are soft steel bolts, but if you think of all the jobs and ways they are used on the farm, that's all they need to be.

4banger's right again, (''We never throw anything away'').---I think I can speak for most fellows that spend time in a shop, we all have that fear that (''If I throw that away, without a doubt, I'll need it tomorrow'').

He's right again, Fastenal has or can get just about any bolt, screw, tap, nut, washer or fastener made.
 
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Outlawmws

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Joined
Aug 9, 2011
Messages
39,285
Location
The Badlands
I have removed quite a few of these, and prying up on the badge is NOT the way to do it. I use a wood chisel that I narrowed so that it will easily fit within the casting slot. I do not initially try and pry under the pin, I merely tap each pin head from one side, and then the other repeatedly. The pin will eventually begin to work its way out to the point you can get under the head to pull it. As far as badge refinishing, actually very easy since it has surfaces at different levels. After I soda blast to strip, I paint the various depressed surfaces as desired, then drag the badge across a sheet of 1500 or 2000 grit paper to clean up any slopped paint and polish the highlights. Here is a pic of one i did.

+1 on the wood chisel! That's how I removed mine. Back and forth with light taps. I don't think I have nearly the steady hands to do paint like that but I'm going to give it a try. VERY nice work Ed!

I've done the wood chisel a number of times when the pin was not accessible from the back (The preferred method). sometimes two - I have some chisels that are "sacrificial" and not used for cutting wood, but I still sharpen them and get under the edge of the head, and once it starts to move use two chisels and lift it out. Works every time.
 
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