Building a welding/project table instead of a shop.

[AFBud78]

Been dreaming of starting my own shop since I left Tennessee, and my old shop, years ago. Finally trying to settle in one place for as long as the military will let me, so we bought a house. Chose the house for the school system more than the lot size or my desire for a large shop. It is nice, 3 car garage that really only fits one full-size vehicle. Leaves some room for me to tinker at least. 0.25 acre lot doesn't allow for a proper shop build, so I am going to make do and start a project I have been wanting to do for years - a welding/project table.

First there were twenty different Sketch-Ups before I decided on this one:





The frame is 2" tubing with 3/16" wall. There will be a 42" x 60" top made from 1/2" plate; which allows for a 2" overhang on each end, and a 5" overhang on each long side. The shelf shown in the first pic is made from 1" square tubing and will have a 1/8" sheet on the bottom, as well as the bottom shelf.

The tubing left open on the end and under the long side will be used for extensions made from 1.5" tubing that can slide out when needed.

 

[AFBud78]

So with a design to start with I found my local steel supplier and bought the metal. 60' of 2" tubing, 20' of 1.5" tubing, and a 4'x5' sheet of 1/8". Waiting on the top till I get the frame built.

Other than a grinder, hacksaw, or reciprocating saw, I had no way to cut the metal accurately; so I bought the best drycut saw I could afford without breaking the budget. Evolution Rage II from Amazon. I am really impressed. It cuts quick, no burrs to grind or file, and no messy abrasive dust. I feel like the Dewalt or Makita options are better saws that have less blade wobble, but this is not my livelihood and I like the performance of the saw.





Sorry its not action shots, this was months ago and didn't feel like getting the saw back down off the shelf for pics.

 

[AFBud78]

Once I got the metal cut (I really like the Evo Rage II saw):



I bought the casters from Lowes:



The weld nuts from McMaster's for inserting bolts to lock the extensions:



And started loading up on clamps:





I also bought one of FireballTool's aluminum 12" Monster Squares. Haven't used it yet but looks like a really nice tool for fabricating and welding. Definitely want to add some more down the road.

 

[AFBud78]

Decided the 20 year old Lincoln flux core wouldn't cut it:



But really I just wanted a new welder:



It is an ESAB EM235 Rebel - mig only.

Then I had to buy some shielding gas:



Luckily the garage has a sub panel in it, so I added a 50amp/220v plug. Now waiting on the 6-2 SJOO cord to arrive so I can weld in the driveway and not stink up the garage. And that is where we are to date. At training for the next 6 weeks so probably be a while before I report back.

 

[AMCguy]

Looks like you're getting yourself well set up.

Can't wait to see the build.

Glenn

 

[sberry]

That machine runs from a 12 cord.

 

[AFBud78]

A 12 gauge cord is fine for short distance on 120v, but I am trying to limit voltage drop on 220v.

 

[sberry]

The dvI works on 50 ft of 12 at 120v. They work on 100 ft of 12 at 240v.
10 is even better but 6 is 3 sizes bigger than it needs.

 

[sberry]

One of the incentives to buying a new machines like this is they work well with light cords and service.

 

[AFBud78]

What about wire holding up in the case of a short circuit on a 50A circuit?

 

[Hot Rod Grampa]

I agree with your choice of the cord. Some members believe in cheap as the only option and as cheap as you can go and still have it work. You will have a rugged cord that can handle any welder that takes that plug. Keep going with your build and thank you for your service.

 

[AFBud78]

The price difference in 6 gauge and 10 gauge on 25' is less than $10. Probably just stay with 6 gauge for the piece of mind.

 

[AFBud78]

I agree with your choice of the cord. Some members believe in cheap as the only option and as cheap as you can go and still have it work. You will have a rugged cord that can handle any welder that takes that plug. Keep going with your build and thank you for your service.

Thank you.

 

[bradpac]

Not everything has to be overkill, a lot of times it makes it harder to use. I actually have first hand experience for this and think sberry's suggestion is a good one.

I had a 6 gauge 25ft cord that I replaced with a 50ft 10 gauge cord as my little welder only pulls 30 amps max and I could fit twice as long of the lighter cord on my cart.

Now, $10 cost difference, if you're just going to keep it in the corner I can understand a heavier cord to future proof things. Just don't be put off by people saying it's cheaping out to only buy a cord that is for the rating of your machine.

 

[AFBud78]

Per ESAB, the minimum cord size on 220v is 10 gauge. At max output the machine requires 48A input. While wire sizing is often affected by insulation values, 6 gauge copper is still reasonable for a 50A circuit. Utilizing SJOO cord will allow me to run a 6 gauge cord and still maintain flexibility; and be able to store the cord in a tight loop wind.

 

[notenuftoys]

Subscribing to your thread. I'm just starting to build some basics in my garage since the shop won't happen for a few years. I like your table plans - do you mind me asking how much the materials cost?

 

[Farmall450]

It'll look nice in your big ole shop someday!

For now, it'll work nice too

 

[AFBud78]

Subscribing to your thread. I'm just starting to build some basics in my garage since the shop won't happen for a few years. I like your table plans - do you mind me asking how much the materials cost?

$300 in metal, casters, and weld nuts so far. Tools and consumables are more than I should have, but should last me a lifetime.

 

[tarbellb]

As someone who bought a very nice, very heavy 6g cord for a 220/110 welder, I highly recommend buying a (additional) lighter duty cord.

Lugging that big f**ker around every time I needed to weld was no fun, I would usually try to plug my welder in w/o the ext.... just my 2c.

 

[Monza Harry]

Dad bought his cord about 75' of 6/3 [ground counts in our (Canada) system of wire numbering for ext. cords, in wall is different] for his Lincoln 225 Tombstone and this length was needed to get to the back door of the garage from the house, and I'll add that "tarbellb" isn't kidding about the weight. Do what makes sense for now and fill in the blanks as you go. The smaller one, may be enough for now, and the money will always be needed for more "Toys...I mean necessary tools" yeah that's what I meant.
The bigger cord will reduce voltage drop, but remember that your welders duty cycle will prevent you from overheating the cord. Just weigh your needs/wants/cost and go from there! You dodge bullets for a living this is easy by all comparisons. And Thanx Neighbour for having our back [lower border]. Harry

 

[AFBud78]

I appreciate everyone's take on the cord matter. I am going with a 25' 6-2. Already ordered.

 

[AFBud78]

What is everyone's thoughts on adding electrical outlets to a steel welding table? Was going to run EMT and add a few when time comes. Will this cause interference with the welding ground?

 

[AFBud78]

I know it has been awhile since my last post. Between work and family obligations things have moved slow. I did finish the table, or at least get it to a point that I can use it. Then the website wouldn't let me upload photos for 2 months. As with most of my plans, things changed. The dedicated welding table has turned into an outfield table for my table saw. Hadn't even planned on purchasing a table saw when I started this project, but the wife said the house needed new cabinets, and I saw the opportunity to buy new tools.

So here is the table with a 3/4" Birch top instead of a metal one. Plan is to change it if I ever get a big enough shop for everything. I have also removed the 4" casters shown in the pics and replaced them with 2" ones to lower the table to the level of the saw.

Overall I am very happy with the way it turned out. It is heavy enough to handle anything I need to do, but still will roll around the garage if needed. Maybe one day (after retirement) I can paint it and put a steel top on it.

 

[sberry]

What about wire holding up in the case of a short circuit on a 50A circuit? If the instructions say 10 then that is it but 12 is the limit for short circuit on 50,,, its what the buzzers and 240 200 class migs come with. A buzzer allows 75 ft of 12 in pipe on 50A

 

[tarbellb]

A nice beefy table is always welcome in a shop.

I dig the old soda vending machine in the corner! I had a slightly newer one (faux wood grain and all), filled it with beer for the buds.

 

[bullnerd]

How do you like the ESAB?

 

[AFBud78]

Love the ESAB. While all of my welds weren't pretty, they are strong enough for the application. Could have made do with the smaller ESAB, but this one will serve me well for anything I want to do for years to come. It welded the thicker tubing and the thinner sheet stuff without any problems, on the preset levels from the factory. I think the biggest limiting factor I had, other than I hadn't touched a welder since 1998, was my cheap Harbor Freight auto darkening helmet. Not the clearest in the world, and flickered when I was in the sunlight. Would highly recommend the ESAB.

 

[AFBud78]

A nice beefy table is always welcome in a shop.

I dig the old soda vending machine in the corner! I had a slightly newer one (faux wood grain and all), filled it with beer for the buds.

Thanks. Yeah the soda machine was found by my wife on facebook for only $100. Always found Coke but I am a Dr. Pepper fan. Runs but doesn't cool. Plan to do a complete tear down one day. Code for: Will sit in the garage collecting dust until I retire or the kids will have to throw it away when I pass.

 

[bullnerd]

Love the ESAB. While all of my welds weren't pretty, they are strong enough for the application. Could have made do with the smaller ESAB, but this one will serve me well for anything I want to do for years to come. It welded the thicker tubing and the thinner sheet stuff without any problems, on the preset levels from the factory. I think the biggest limiting factor I had, other than I hadn't touched a welder since 1998, was my cheap Harbor Freight auto darkening helmet. Not the clearest in the world, and flickered when I was in the sunlight. Would highly recommend the ESAB.

Thanks.

 

[nsula_country]

I appreciate everyone's take on the cord matter. I am going with a 25' 6-2. Already ordered.

I understand what they are trying to say. Welding circuits have some special rules.

Years ago, before the shop build, I bought a welder.

Hobart 230AC/160DC stick machine. Extended the leads with #4 welding cables. Used twist connect couplers to enable using them with my gas machine. That machine has #2 welding cables, that I have used on the AC/DC tombstone. Also made a 50' cord from 6/3 SO. Do not regret not using #10 or #8. Even though machine cord (5' long) was #10 (I think).

Following along!

CT

 

[sberry]

I think they come with a 12 cord. Using a wire a size bigger than the cord is sufficient for general work. I happen to use 10 cause I got it, I cant run a 250 feeder hard enough to warm it.
My buzzer is right at the panel. I am a career guy and a bunch of stuff so some lead isn't a big deal and I run it instead of a cord, the machine doesn't need to move. I could do it either way, I can change it in minutes but am used to dragging a little lead when I have to. I got enough to have a couple stingers and grounds for remote work.
You can see in the last pic, the green is a connector and goes to a common work ground, to the building, booth, benches all of it and the red is a Y for a local stinger and the one to that door lead.
Pic 1 was all the stuff that had grown on to the loom that was connected to it. When I remodeled I stripped a bunch out. Instead of having 3 sets I got it with 2 and a little longer leads, made it simpler with less parts and the lead is heavy enough that some extra on is irrelevant.

 

[lis2323]

I think they come with a 12 cord. Using a wire a size bigger than the cord is sufficient for general work. I happen to use 10 cause I got it, I cant run a 250 feeder hard enough to warm it.
My buzzer is right at the panel. I am a career guy and a bunch of stuff so some lead isn't a big deal and I run it instead of a cord, the machine doesn't need to move. I could do it either way, I can change it in minutes but am used to dragging a little lead when I have to. I got enough to have a couple stingers and grounds for remote work.
You can see in the last pic, the green is a connector and goes to a common work ground, to the building, booth, benches all of it and the red is a Y for a local stinger and the one to that door lead.
Pic 1 was all the stuff that had grown on to the loom that was connected to it. When I remodeled I stripped a bunch out. Instead of having 3 sets I got it with 2 and a little longer leads, made it simpler with less parts and the lead is heavy enough that some extra on is irrelevant.

That’s what I like to see, sberry. Decent wheels under the Lincoln. [emoji106].