Rust stoppers....................

[mebedave]

Does anyone have experience with the “stop rust” products out there like the link below?? I have a flat bed truck the frame, bed, and other components have a lot of heavy flaking rust. I just want to stop or so down the rust then maybe paint after treating. I hear products like this work well but I’m not sure which one to use and I have not seen the products used personally. Please Help



http://www.por15.com/

 

[Bull]

I have used POR15 before, and it does an ok job. Surface prep is critical.

I recommend cleaning the area very thoroughly, then applying a rust converter called "Ospho." After that, you can paint with POR15 or Master Series or whatever product you choose. The good thing about Ospho is that it does not need to be rinsed before painting.

 

[Bender78]

Google a product called Rust Bullet. I have used both this and POR, and I found Rust Bullet to be more forgiving regarding surface prep. Bull's advice on the Ospho is spot on.

 

[Cameronl]

Someone on The Samba ran a long-term test of a number of products.

Por15, Rust Bullet, Eastwood's product and MasterSeries all did a good job. Prep is key!

I like MasterSeries, because it's significantly cheaper, and the distributor around here is a VW enthusiast.

 

[bucs012]

I have only used POR15. Never used anything special for prep. Just washed with dawn dish soap (that stuff cuts through about anything!) sanded or grinded down my work. Again washed with light soap and water. Let dry 100%. Brushed on my POR15.

If you are working with a very smooth surface, you for sure want to rough it up with sandpaper, clean and apply POR15.

Have used it on car frames, rear end housings and to stop rust on a mower deck and snow blower.

Good luck in no matter what you choose.

 

[Deschodt]

I have used POR15 before, and it does an ok job. Surface prep is critical.

I recommend cleaning the area very thoroughly, then applying a rust converter called "Ospho." After that, you can paint with POR15 or Master Series or whatever product you choose. The good thing about Ospho is that it does not need to be rinsed before painting.

+1 on the above. Both are good products but I like using ospho first as well, as you can see it neutralize the rust, and it takes very little OSPHO... POR does too, but you can't tell since it looks like paint, and it's harder to keep an open can "good" (seal with cling wrap under the lid) ;-) sometimes POR15 does not stick all that well if prep is not perfect... (except on your skin, it'll stick to that for weeks)

 

[Moldy Oldy]

I used POR15 on two VW restorations ...they are still motoring around the Southwest..

 

[38Chevy454]

POR 15 is a good really tough paint. But it is not UV stable and will fade from gloss to flat in about 6-12 months. Still has all the corrosion protection, but does not look as nice. It can be topcoated to protect from UV. Some other products have UV protection built in. I have used Zero-Rust with good results on my car trailer and flatbed on my COE. Both 100% outside exposure. Dulled a little bit, but nothing like POR 15 does. Zero-Rust is just a heavy duty industrial enamel paint.

 

[bazzateer]

Don't know if it's marketed in the USA but Bilt Hamber products always come out top in any car magazine test against POR/Eastwood etc. Despite the name they are a British Company.

http://www.bilthamber.com/

 

[mishkaya]

I have had better results with Rust Bullet than with POR15 myself. If you are going to use POR15, it works best in conjunction with Picklex. It was way more work than I was willing to do on some of my projects however; not to mention the fact that it will drive up the cost quite a bit. The results are really worth it however if you are looking for long term rust protection.

 

[mebedave]

My plan is to do a quick and dirty sandblast job, some steel brushing and then coat with one of these products. Do you think the sandlasting is over kill? The rust is flaking bad,so bad if you drop something heavy onto the bed rust falls onto the ground.

 

[rhastings80]

I have found both rust-bullet and Por-15 work good but the trick is to get down to bare metal. If you just paint over rust it will flake off.

 

[mishkaya]

My plan is to do a quick and dirty sandblast job, some steel brushing and then coat with one of these products. Do you think the sandlasting is over kill? The rust is flaking bad,so bad if you drop something heavy onto the bed rust falls onto the ground.

Sandblasting would be recommended!

 

[nissan_crawler]

I just put por-15 on a mower deck last night. No idea on durability, obviously.

 

[Rickster]

I'm using the Eastwood Rust Inhibitor on my Mustang project. After stripping rust & gunk off the metal I hit it with Eastwoods metal prep and then apply the rust inhibitor paint. Seems to work well. When brushed on from the can it dries in a nice finish that minimizes any brush lines. Also available in a spray can.

 

[stricht8]

Are Ospho and picklex the same product?

 

[regguy1]

Here's some great stuff....

See how it works.....

 

[tcianci]

I'm not saying that there aren't plenty of good products out there but my experience has been with POR 15. I'm guessing that Ospho is very much like the POR metal ready which is a mild phosphoric acid solution as far as I can tell. I am building a 1940 Ford pickup and have been using the POR products on it. I have some panels that I painted with POR 11 or 12 years ago and have never has them rust again yet. You can literally paint over rust with most of these products. The surface prep required is often refered to as a PITA by everyone but hey, you're asking a lot of this stuff, the least you can do is prep and apply it the way the guys designed it to be used. The key property of most of these products is that they effectively seal the metal from any further exposure to oxygen, inhibiting corrosion. I know in the case of POR 15, if you aren't painting on sound, rusted surfaces or nicely sandblasted or properly etched by metal ready, the stuff will peel off in sheets, except in the case of your hands, where it will stay on good and strong long enough for you to be explaining it to your grandchildren. Also as was mentioned, the POR15 paint is a bear to seal and re-open. If you get any paint into the groove of the can, it will "weld" the cover in place. Use care in dispensing and take out a quantity to paint with, put plastic wrap between the can and lid. Use the paint that was dispensed from the can for your project and discard the rest. The product is a moisture cured urethane and it hardens by interaction with the moisture in the air, you want to minimize the amount of time the can is open. To help in this regard, POR sells the product in little 6 packs that are great to work from.

 

[ddawg16]

I've used POR-15 as well....it's great for jeep axles.....

In your case....I'm thinking that maybe something more along the lines of Durabak or Herculiner would be better....or if you had the money...LineX or Rhino....

The POR stuff is good....but it will also be very smooth and is not going to stand up well to the abuse a truck bed gets.....

Durabak is expensive....Herculiner can be bought at more auto supplies....and if it gets a scratch....give it a spray with spray on rubber (the name eludes me right now)