Keeping a few Brake lines on hand....which ones?

[fred d]

have a few old International Scouts
Going to buy a few different length of brake lines to have on hand.
I believe them to all be 3/16, but not sure.
Will also have some fuel lines on hand for replacement/repair 5/16?
In looking there are a few different options.
Galfan coated yellow inverted flare
Blue bubble flare
Red Bubble Flare
Violet double flare
25’ roll Steel
Also have Nicopp 25’ roll options and necessary fittings available
Not sure if I will end up replacing all, some or none, but want to have product on hand if necessary
Also have never had to flare a line, so will be sourcing a flaring kit
Thanks in advance

 

[mrvm]

I'm no mechanic but after replacing a rusty section with Cu-Ni I sure felt like one

 

[Fueler]

have a few old International Scouts
Going to buy a few different length of brake lines to have on hand.
I believe them to all be 3/16, but not sure.
Will also have some fuel lines on hand for replacement/repair 5/16?
In looking there are a few different options.
Galfan coated yellow inverted flare
Blue bubble flare
Red Bubble Flare
Violet double flare
25’ roll Steel
Also have Nicopp 25’ roll options and necessary fittings available
Not sure if I will end up replacing all, some or none, but want to have product on hand if necessary
Also have never had to flare a line, so will be sourcing a flaring kit
Thanks in advance

Definitely get a good flaring tool kit and the line in rolls. I say this after fussing with store bought lines too many times. Always an ugly affair and they rust out just as fast. I will go digging for the line I have been using and get back to you.

 

[jblnut]

Also have never had to flare a line, so will be sourcing a flaring kit

I know it's a decent investment BUT worth every penny. I've used the cheap manual flaring tools and they all stink to say the least.

I purchased this set locally a while back and it's amazing. Takes a little practice to get it right but well worth the investment.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06WD86RLH/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[ZRX61]

Get a roll of Cunifer (copper/nickel/steel)


http://www.brakeconnect.com/cunifer-brake-line

 

[Bruce Amacker]

Don't overthink this, any line you change will probably outlast you. Stock 60" steel lines or a roll, a cheap bender and an inexpensive DF kit. Straight lines are easier to deal with than a roll, but if you're changing a bunch a roll makes sense. We stocked all straight lines and cut them to fit. 3/16" are the easiest to flare, as they get bigger they get a bit harder. I have bent/flared thousands of lines in my life (here in the lovely rust belt). I doubt your Scouts will have any bubble flares, that's all modern or Euro stuff.

 

[sberry]

Agree, it's common double flare. I keep some pieces and a roll, for a Scout could get 1 of each size to get out of a pinch and I keep a few couplings and a fitting I call a Ford nut which is an adapter that goes from std for 3/16 to one size larger nut. Saves making a flare. I replaced a line on a truck the other day, 1 line and adapter.

 

[icthruu74]

Brake lines were always one of those things I avoided. Then my kids car needed all the lines replaced, and instead of paying nearly what he paid for the car to a shop I picked up a couple rolls of NiCop line, some fittings and the Mastercool flaring set linked above and it was an easy job (other then a rusted to pieces wheel cylinder that I had to grind off)

 

[Shadowdog500]

You can keep what you need on hand but nicopp is readily available. I bought a couple rolls from amazon for a good price earlier this year and I really like it. 25 Ft. Roll/Coil of 3/16" (.028" Wall) Copper Nickel Brake Line Tubing https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015YGQYW2/?tag=atomicindus08-20

The regular old fashioned flair tools that everyone uses seem to be hit and miss. I’ve had one the would make perfect flairs, but another identical one off the mac truck that made lopsided flairs every time.

I use an Eastwood pro flair tool that mounts in a vise. It makes perfect flairs every time but you can’t easily use it under the car or in tight spaces.https://www.eastwood.com/profession...DL3oSS2_xLx-NdtVP-jQJeLjyYg-R_uhoCRsQQAvD_BwE


This is my favorite tool to make 3/16 double flairs under car. Titan Tools 51535 3/16-Inch Double Flaring Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XPRVCPV/?tag=atomicindus08-20

I also have the Eastwood hydraulic fairmont flair tool and really like it. https://www.eastwood.com/fairmount-...Gh1pJebthX941JWAZhDeuflCqy2iyacRoCVKoQAvD_BwE
I originally bought the mastercool set but mastercool moved production offshore and the new Mastercool dies have those gripping ridges that put a bunch of ridges in the line. The Eastwood set does not have the ridges. They are about the same price so there is no savings either way.

If I had to choose one I would pick the Eastwood hydraulic flair tool.

Chris

 

[jsaw]

Don't overthink this, any line you change will probably outlast you. Stock 60" steel lines

Back before I found copper nickel, any steel line that I used would be rusted and leaking in 5 years. When I need line, I buy a 25 foot roll of copper nickel, and save the rest for any future repairs.

I have accumulated an assortment of line nuts. In a pinch, I have reused line nuts

 

[CraigStu]

In addition to being easy to bend the copper nickel is also much easier to flare so you can probably get away w/ a step down from professional for you flare tool.

 

[theoldwizard1]

Definitely get a good flaring tool kit and the line in rolls.

One bonus of NiCop (nickel copper) brake line is that it is easy to bend and flare. Even an average flaring tool will work.

If you are shopping for a flar tool, the ULTIMATE is still the Eastwood Professional Brake Line Tubing Flaring Tool..

Also good are the Eastwood Double Flaring On Car Tool and the Cal-Van 165 Master Inline Flaring Kit

If I was going to "stock" fuel line, I think I would go with the hard nylon kind. if you heat the line with boiling water (never use an open flame) you can press the fitting on by hand (don't waste your money on the Dorman kit; the tool does not work that well). Once it cools, it is permanent. You can splice it to a CLEAN metal line with the push on compression fitting.

 

[DGersic]

Another vote here for Nicop brake line. Wonderful stuff to work with, and doesn’t rust. Surprisingly, AutoZone stocks it here in straight pieces and 25’ coils, for reasonable prices.


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