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Interior Insulation - What Not To Do?

S

Superseado

New member
Joined
Oct 6, 2019
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3
Location
New Jersey
Ok guys, new to the forum. I put up a 24 x 30 pole barn last year. Wood structure with metal skin. I have metal on the ceiling with blown in insulation. I am getting ready to do the walls. I plan on framing in between the post for ease of hanging sheet rock. The biggest question is what to do or especially not do for insulation. There is a ton of conflicting information out there.

I am not going to use spray foam. Just way to expensive.

My original plan was just framing the studs and using R19 bat. But i am now hearing the bat should not touch the metal. Also hearing there should be a radiant barrier.

So now i am leaning towards attaching 1" foam board with radiant barrier to the girts and using R13 between the studs. I will be DIY spray foaming along the base of the metal skin to seal that up from critters and air flow.

With all that being said does anyone have either success stories or failure stores similar to my plan?

It makes sense to add that i am in central New Jersey. Plan on only heating when i am in the building nights/weekends. AC is unknown yet.
 
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D

DC73

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Dec 27, 2014
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1,627
Location
Lubbock TX
Superseado said:
My original plan was just framing the studs and using R19 bat. But i am now hearing the bat should not touch the metal. Also hearing there should be a radiant barrier.
Click to expand...

You don't need a radiant barrier, especially in your climate. You might have issues with condensation which could be why you are hearing to not let the batts touch the metal.

Closed cell spray foam would avoid the condensation issue and you could even apply the minimum amount of foam needed for your climate and then finish the insulation with another less expensive product. But, there are probably other ways to pull off what you need. I'd visit GreenBuildingAdvisor and go to their Q&A forum and ask the gurus who hang out there.

DC
 
M

mike93lx

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Dec 9, 2013
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37,847
Location
Richmond, VA
Price out all that XPS board, the cans of spray foam, tape to seal it, and the Batts. Then consider labor.

Look at spray foam again. Probably won't be much of a gap
 
B

b-boy

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Oct 2, 2013
Messages
2,155
Location
Buffalo NY
Superseado said:
So now i am leaning towards attaching 1" foam board with radiant barrier to the girts and using R13 between the studs. I will be DIY spray foaming along the base of the metal skin to seal that up from critters and air flow.

With all that being said does anyone have either success stories or failure stores similar to my plan?
Click to expand...

I did this, but I used 2" XPS and R11 batts. The XPS acts as a radiant barrier.

2" XPS screwed to the girts leaves exactly enough space for 2x4 studs if you have 6" posts.

I added the XPS board and framed in front of it. I sealed everything up with the Great Stuff pro gun. Then I added R11 unfaced insulation and 1/2" OSB.

It made a huge difference this Summer. The foam board and spray foam make it pretty wind-proof. No drafts at all.
 
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tab2

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Joined
Apr 9, 2009
Messages
381
Location
Boston
mike93lx said:
As someone that is almost done with a 6 month bathroom reno... That cuts deep. :thumbup:
Click to expand...

I see your 6 months and can raise you another 8...

It sounds like you don’t have house wrap so I would do something to try and limit the air flow. XPS and great stuff or spray foam. Are you going to heat/cool it? You really one have one shot at insulation; buy once, cry once.

There are only a few things I don’t do, tape drywall, paint (see first sentence), and insulation of that size would definitely be on the list.
 
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