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Eaton 301755 subpanel enclosure

rjacobs

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I have a hot tub currently that uses this sub-panel. Were building a new house and the builder is going to run wiring out to said sub-panel. The loaded panel is $500+, which I would rather not spend if I can buy an 80-100 dollar panel and swap my breakers in later. They want at least the sub panel, but I want my hot tub running through this build process...

Im trying to figure out what physical sub panel enclosure this assembly is.

The 301755 part number is sold with breakers and what not all installed.

Im only looking for the enclosure though, but having a hard time figuring out if its available empty or not.

Anybody got an Eaton catalog they can thumb through? I tried searching online parts houses, but half the listings are missing pictures.
 
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MattT

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It appears to be an OEM special which isn't in the Eaton catalog. If you measure it & post the LxWxH somebody might be able to find it if it's a standard size. Just based on googling it's NEMA 3R with CH breakers but I can't be sure of the enclosure size.
 
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rjacobs

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You are probably correct on it being an OEM special. I will probably just have to end up buying a complete box.

Rough measurements are:
4.25 deep
6.5 wide
11.5 tall

Its got 6 breaker positions in it and is top feed and bottom exit. The top feed has an eaton hub feed(I think 1.25, but might be 1.5, cant remember what we put on it). The bottom is knock outs.
 
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MattT

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Why do you need a 2+ space subpanel for a hut tub?

Hot tub manufacturer requires seperate 20A & 30A circuits. They should've built it to take a 50A feed and put the overcurrent protection in the tub but chose not to. I guess they save themselves a few bucks on the tub build and make a killing selling the OEM spa panel:wtf:
 

wyliesdiesels

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Hot tub manufacturer requires seperate 20A & 30A circuits. They should've built it to take a 50A feed and put the overcurrent protection in the tub but chose not to. I guess they save themselves a few bucks on the tub build and make a killing selling the OEM spa panel:wtf:

aww makes sense.

I would never buy a tub that requires such circuitry.

Get a 50a tub and be done with it. cheaper to wire up
 
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rjacobs

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Looks like a 6R enclosure. CH2L125RP should be the same size.

https://www.elliottelectric.com/P/Item/CHD/CH2L125RP/

Or this one may be an exact match so all you'll have to do is transfer across the breakers. CH6L125R.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Eaton-C...-Lug-Loadcenter-with-Cover-CH6L125R/302409202

The first one is not correct at all, only 1 breaker space. The second looks 100% the same, but I need to open up my current panel to see if it has anything else funky inside. I dont THINK it does, but cant remember. Thanks, ill check more into this one.

Why do you need a 2+ space subpanel for a hut tub?

Just get a spa panel with a 50a GFCI breaker factory installed

Hot tub manufacturer requires seperate 20A & 30A circuits. They should've built it to take a 50A feed and put the overcurrent protection in the tub but chose not to. I guess they save themselves a few bucks on the tub build and make a killing selling the OEM spa panel:wtf:

Separate 20a and 30a feeds into the hot tub. I dont know anything about over current protection being shed to the panel vs. in the hot tub, but I know the 20a feeds the heater and the 30a feeds the 3 pumps and the main spa control. You can hook up the 30a only and power the tub, blower pumps, etc... but you get no heat and a heater fault light. If you hook up the 20a only, obviously nothing happens.

I didnt design it like this, but its not uncommon from what I can gather.
 
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MattT

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The first one is not correct at all, only 1 breaker space. The second looks 100% the same, but I need to open up my current panel to see if it has anything else funky inside. I dont THINK it does, but cant remember. Thanks, ill check more into this one.

Both should be the same enclosure as your existing panel so good enough for your electrician to mount and pull wire to. When you move the tub your worst case is just remove the new panel & replace it with your current tub panel. It'd be easier if that second panel is a direct replacement but it's no big deal if it isn't. Might take 10 minutes to swap the panels out.
 
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rjacobs

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That part number is discontinued, but the local Elliot Electric I use was able to get me one shipped in from another store for 109 bucks...

Whether I use it or not, ive got one coming to me.
 
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rjacobs

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**** now I see where the cost is. The damn ground fault breakers...

I have found them for a bit under 100 a piece, but a lot of places list them at 150-175 bucks.
 
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wyliesdiesels

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**** now I see where the cost is. The damn ground fault breakers...

I have found them for a bit under 100 a piece, but a lot of places list them at 150-175 bucks.

thats because they are not a commonly needed breaker.

The 50a GFCI breakers used for spas are less than $100 and are sold quite often
 
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rjacobs

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thats because they are not a commonly needed breaker.

The 50a GFCI breakers used for spas are less than $100 and are sold quite often

Yea the 50a is around that price also.

I wouldnt say uncommon, all the GFCI breakers are pricey, just ***** needing 2.

Oh well. Even if I end up buying 2 new breakers for another 200, plus the 110 for the box, ill have ~310 into the whole setup, which beats $500 by a mile.
 

MattT

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That part number is discontinued, but the local Elliot Electric I use was able to get me one shipped in from another store for 109 bucks...

:thumbup: And that part # hasn't been discontinued long. I got it from the 2019 catalog.

**** now I see where the cost is. The damn ground fault breakers...

That $500 is "we can charge what we want" because it's an OEM part #. If that was an Eaton catalog item it'd probably retail around $250.
 

wyliesdiesels

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Yea the 50a is around that price also.

I wouldnt say uncommon, all the GFCI breakers are pricey, just ***** needing 2.

Oh well. Even if I end up buying 2 new breakers for another 200, plus the 110 for the box, ill have ~310 into the whole setup, which beats $500 by a mile.

I didnt say the CH was cheaper. I was referring to other brands of 50a GFCIs.

But CH breakers are really good quality so youre paying for that as well
 
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