Tool protective lubricant

[_brian_]

What does everyone here use for a protective oil coating on tools?

I recently purchased a small set of torx bit sockets and used 3-in-1 oil to coat them. What I found is that after a few months, the 3-in-1 oil seems to have evaporated leaving the bit ends dry. Seeing this made me think about the cleaning and lubrication of tools and the products I use.

I never really gave too much attention to what I used, having used air tool oil, ATF, motor oil, silicone spray, WD-40, etc. Many tools tend to rust such as bits, the old Western Force made Craftsman screwdrivers, black oxide coatings left to dry out, etc. I wonder the best product to use for tool protection while not leaving tools covered in excessive oil. Maybe what I saw with the 3-in-1 oil was misleading being ideal as it leaves a non oily coating?

 

[tym]

SiliKroil? It will leave some silicone behind.

For me, I've generally used an oily shop rag or some Marvel Mystery Oil. Reapply as necessary.

 

[unslow1]

I use air tool oil.

 

[lardy1]

3 in 1 for me. I'm sure there's a cheaper alternative though. I'm afforded the luxury of time since I retired. I can sit down with a drawer full of tools and a rag and wipe them down and return them where they belong. I sailed as a Merchant Marine. I have some first hand experience with dealing with rust. Persistance is the key.

 

[rijndael]

Crc 6-56

 

[Fialaja]

I use Wd 40 since it’s cheap and readily available

 

[matt_i]

I go with LPS-3 from a trigger spray bottle just a few drops and wipe it on with my hands.

 

[alcorelli]

Either LPS3 or Boeshield.

Sent from my SM-T837P using Tapatalk

 

[Olafur]

ATF is hard to beat.

 

[Private Lugnutz]

Fluid Film on tools in long term storage or display cases. WD40 on tools I will be handling.

 

[rlitman]

Fluid Film on tools in long term storage or display cases. WD40 on tools I will be handling.

Either LPS3 or Boeshield.

Sent from my SM-T837P using Tapatalk

I don't have much experience with LPS3, but both Fluid Film and Boeshield will NOT evaporate. At least, in your lifetime. Both are fantastic, but leave a pretty thick film, that I agree isn't quite handling friendly.

Unfortunately, WD40 isn't so great for this. It mostly evaporates, and what's left behind turns into a sticky mess. I prefer G96 1055P Complete Triple-Action Gun Treatment. I've found it to be way better at preventing rust.

 

[CGarage]

Bostik glide coat

 

[ken w.]

I use Kroil on a rag. The more you use your tools , the more oil and grease gets on the tools and then they just need a wipe off.

 

[Private Lugnutz]

Fluid Film...will NOT evaporate.

Precisely why I use it as a preservative on collectibles. That, and the fact that it is lanolin based, containing no solvents.

 

[Cjcycles]

Lubriplate FMO350AW is the best thing I’ve ever used. Approved for food processing equipment so I assume it’s not as toxic as some others.

I have an old master lock that I had oiled with WD 40 and would have to reapply ever couple months. I put one drop of Lubriplate in it about 8 years ago and haven’t had to reapply. It still looks wet from the oil. It is sold in cans for gun oil too.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[rlitman]

Precisely why I use it as a preservative on collectibles. That, and the fact that it is lanolin based, containing no solvents.

To be fair, the aerosol technically has a solvent. Propane. But that bubbles out almost instantly. Slower when it’s cold out.

I use it a lot on things I don’t handle, that I really don’t want to rust. But it’s a bit slimy for my liking for stuff like pliers.

 

[lardy1]

I bought Boeshield for my cast iron table saw and drill press parts. When I was sailing my shop and tools sat dormant for months at a time. It never occurred to me to use it on vintage hand tools.

 

[Private Lugnutz]

But it’s a bit slimy for my liking for stuff like pliers.

Definitely wet. I wipe excess down with a rag. Some people think it has an offensive odor, too. It has never bothered me.

 

[nichocha33]

Ive been using Superzilla, working great and doesn't leave a greasy film behind, a little pricey but it doesn't have a bad odor or attract dust and dirt.

 

[rlitman]

Definitely wet. I wipe excess down with a rag. Some people think it has an offensive odor, too. It has never bothered me.

LOL. My wife hates the smell. She calls it “sheep ****”. I kind of like the smell of lanolin.

Yes, wiping off excess goes a long way towards making it more handleable. It only needs a microscopic thin film to protect.

 

[Monte]

Ballistol

 

[FSUwelder1212]

Eezox

 

[M6erfan]

Here's a good comparison of lots of different 'Protective Lubricants' one might find helpful...

http://www.shotgunworld.com/bbs/viewtopic.php?t=398836

 

[captaindiode]

I like baby oil. It is just a light mineral oil.

 

[lincwelder225]

Try any decent gun oil. Clenzoil is a great choice and has a piney smell to it. Ballistol is another choice, although the smell is a licorice type smell and might take some getting used to.

Never used fluid film... was going to buy some but the smell made me want to vomit. I couldn't imagine my toolbox and garage reeking like it. To each their own I guess...

 

[426 HEMI]

Inox

 

[TailGunner3000]

Best I've found for general use is any brand way oil. It has a small amount of tackiness agent that allows it to stay on tools in different positions. For longer term use and areas of high humidity or rapid temperature changes, Boeshield works great. Can't get past the smell of Fluid Film. A friend undercoated his Jeep with it, and it smells putrid to this day. He wonders why nobody will ride with him.

 

[tym]

Definitely wet. I wipe excess down with a rag. Some people think it has an offensive odor, too. It has never bothered me.

Smells like sheep, which is what I'd expect, since it's lanolin.

 

[BFHtime]

Here's a good comparison of lots of different 'Protective Lubricants' one might find helpful...

http://www.shotgunworld.com/bbs/viewtopic.php?t=398836

Wow! What a great link! It needs it’s own sticky.

 

[44Dan44]

Bostik glide coat

Best stuff!

 

[karoc]

I been using this product for awhile now and it seems to work.Its pricey at I think 17.00 so can't go around spraying like its a can of WD40.When start to spray it comes out as foam which I like.Most time I just spray small section paper towel then wipe part down let it kinda let it set little.2rd choice is Fluid Film which I get at Lowes on sale at I think 8.00

 

[Jazz1]

Never put anything on, wiping tools off there is always going to be some residue left behind. I would use gun oil. You guys must have some very humid conditions

 

[jptbay]

Corrosion X

 

[tool_scrounge]

LPS 3 works great. I have used in on bare metal stock outside and no rust.

 

[matthew]

Paste wax! It's decent to handle, and stays on parts.

I also use Fluid Film. Great stuff, but pricey. I tend to use Fluid Film on things that already had a little rust, as it seems to also be good for cleaning off surface rust, and gets into crevices a little more easily than the wax.

 

[giants]

Paste wax! It's decent to handle, and stays on parts.

I also use Fluid Film. Great stuff, but pricey. I tend to use Fluid Film on things that already had a little rust, as it seems to also be good for cleaning off surface rust, and gets into crevices a little more easily than the wax.

Thanks.

By paste wax, do you mean car wax, like consumer-grade Turtle Wax?

 

[Radio Flyer]

I have a 1/4" and 3/8" socket sets in blow molded cases that I leave in the car. lots of temperature changes and I got caught in the rain with one open yesterday. Opened it last night, and there was rust forming already.

I'm going to try leaving a shop rag with 3 in 1 oil on it draped over the sockets while stored in the cases. We will have to wait and see how it works out.

 

[Lisamelting]

Ballistol...I love the smell.

 

[1cargarage]

I use PB Blaster Corrosion Stop

for long term storage of stuff. Sprays on kind of foamy, runs a little as the solvent evaporates then settles to a thick clear film.

I like it because it's clear, so doesn't stain tools or anything the tools rub against. Holds up extremely well for me. I put it on cutting teeth of tools and blades that I rarely use, also rarely used woodworking tools and expensive tools. Removal is easy with one wipe of a towel with or without mineral spirits or solvent. Over time (years), it hasn't migrated (gravity), degraded, or evaporated one bit.

It's (relatively) cheap too. $7~$8 at your local home improvement store.

Barring that, a thin coat of grease won't evaporate or migrate over time either.

Personally, I avoid all CLPs / 3-in-1 oils since they're all thin, quickly migrate to the lowest point, often leaving upper-most surfaces unprotected and lower surfaces and drawer bottoms flooded, and eventually evaporate.

Exceptions to this are products like Boeshield and FluidFilm, which actually leave behind a real lubricant/film once the solvent evaporates.

If you're storing anything long-long-term, cosmoline and/or hotmelt and/or wax and/or vci paper/plastic

 

[bpjr]

The tools I use often stay oiled and rust free from use and they only get a slight wipe down to take the crud off. The ones I don't use often get a wipe down with motor oil every 3-4 months. I wear disposable gloves, shoot a little oil on and rub it around with my hands. I leave those pretty wet and every type tool gets oiled. I also wax the exterior of my tool chests or they rust too. I live on a saltwater river so rust is a continual fight.