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Suggestion on impact driver/wrench

jwhiteney

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I change winter tires over twice a year for up to 8 cars every year. Up until now I have been doing it with a breaker bar, but I decided I want to invest in something so I would no longer need that breaker bar.

I had also been considering buying something new for general house struff as I have 2 hammer drills which I basically never use and the ryobi impact I do use but I only have one battery for.

My uses for the tool(s) are just general stuff around the house plus all my tire changes every year. I don't do any other auto work, however I have been considering trying to do my own brakes at some point.

I had considered getting just a Milwaukee m18 fuel impact driver thinking it would be the cheapest option and do everything i need it to do, but i read that it really isn't the correct tool for the tire changes.

So instead I have purchased a Gen2 M12 Fuel Impact kit with two 2.0 batteries plus I got the 1/2 Stubby bare tool.

I feel like the Impact driver is fine for just my general around the house use, I am just a bit concerned with the Stubby and wondering if it will ever have issues taking any lugs off. Almost all the vehicles lugs are torqued to 90ft/lb the highest it would need to take off is 130ft/lb. On paper it seems it should have no problems but just not sure about real world.

Now I am wondering if I should have gotten a M18 impact and a mid torque, or would that be overkill?

Thanks,
John
 
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CJM8515

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Stubby will yank the wheels off most vehicles besides maybe a truck.
 

ChrisLS8

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A big truck. I just flipped the wheels on my 18 F250 off this last weekend with a 3/8 stubby and a 6.0 battery
 

CJM8515

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A big truck. I just flipped the wheels on my 18 F250 off this last weekend with a 3/8 stubby and a 6.0 battery
Must be that 6.0 battery, my 4.0 wouldnt take the lugs off my chevy 1/2 ton
 

DeeDubz

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I have a 1/2" ryobi impact driver with an 8amp bat. Its awesome. I can rotate my truck tires on one bat. Home depot has a deal 100 bucks you get two 8amp batteries.
 

Tripn88

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I have the matco branded version of this and it will break your wrist if you dont pay attention. Absolutely love this thing. I havent used an air impact since I bought this bad boy. Well traded for it lol. You could probably find one on ebay used cheap. Or the matco version. Just make sure it's the 20 volt infinium NOT the 18 volt

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WJ0MKUC/?tag=atomicindus08-20
 

Yarpo

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Must be that 6.0 battery, my 4.0 wouldnt take the lugs off my chevy 1/2 ton

My 4.0 stubby won't take the lug nuts off really....anything.

Won't be upgrading to a 6.0 and I'm not thrilled it ***** so much, but its great for other things. I'm just surprised to see the claims of people ripping lugs with their stubbies, mines a flop. I'd bet 100 dollars it won't take off more than 5 lug bolts on the next 10 cars I pull into my bay.

I was meaning to try my stubby on PDI cars this week, which should be torqued to roughly 149 NM. This is a great reminder, will report back.
 

chipjumper

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I’m selling my Milwaukee M18 3/8 (210ft lbs) $100 in about three days when I receive my new M18 2862-20 1/2” High-Torque impact (750/1100ft lbs). Was $180 from CPO Tool and I couldn’t refuse the Black Friday deal. Trust me - you’re going to want something with a little more strength. Plus it has the One-Key system and you can use the app to program the mode 1,2,3 buttons for custom torque ranges. Checkout the YouTube vids for reviews. I’m committed to the Milwaukee M12/M18 line. Look at CPO’s selection of refurbished Milwaukee impacts (among other brands too). You can save a fortune.


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chipjumper

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Stubby will yank the wheels off most vehicles besides maybe a truck.


That is very true BUT if you want to use it for other impact work it may not have just enough torque to do the job. I went over the top but I would have probably been just fine with the Milwaukee 450ft lb versions that go for the $99-129 range. I live in the rust belt and we need tools they can fight the rusted fasteners.


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CJM8515

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That is very true BUT if you want to use it for other impact work it may not have just enough torque to do the job. I went over the top but I would have probably been just fine with the Milwaukee 450ft lb versions that go for the $99-129 range. I live in the rust belt and we need tools they can fight the rusted fasteners.


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Thats exactly why I have the 1/2" mid torque gun
 

chipjumper

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Thats exactly why I have the 1/2" mid torque gun



Good call. I question my 3/8” “210ft lbs” rating as I zip the lugnuts tight, hold for 2 seconds, and then when I check them with my torque wrench (140ft lbs) I have to turn it some more. I hope I don’t snap off the studs with the new beast in the mail.


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CafeTools

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A m18 fuel hex will do it all. From lug nuts to building sheds with screws.
 

vanapplebomb

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A m18 fuel hex will do it all. From lug nuts to building sheds with screws.

Not mine. Won’t touch the lug nuts on my wife’s little car after being torqued to 87 Ft*Lbs with copper based antiseize. I have never seen a 1/4” driver remove one lug nut on any car/truck.
 

BK13

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Not mine. Won’t touch the lug nuts on my wife’s little car after being torqued to 87 Ft*Lbs with copper based antiseize. I have never seen a 1/4” driver remove one lug nut on any car/truck.

Perhaps I'm overthinking things (that does tend to happen a lot) but the thought of trying to remove lug nuts off of rusty, nasty studs with a 1/4" hex piece of steel doing all the work doesn't seen like a very good idea.
 

DFB

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I change winter tires over twice a year for up to 8 cars every year. I am just a bit concerned with the Stubby and wondering if it will ever have issues taking any lugs off. Almost all the vehicles lugs are torqued to 90ft/lb the highest it would need to take off is 130ft/lb. On paper it seems it should have no problems but just not sure about real world.

Now I am wondering if I should have gotten a M18 impact and a mid torque, or would that be overkill?

Thanks,
John


Use it R&R the wheels on ALL 8 of those vehicles for full season first (64 wheel changes x 5 lug min.

and then get back to us :lol_hitti


I have a 3/8" stubby coming purchased one over the weekend so FINALLY I'll get to actually test it out for myself. :beer:

And I'm sure its a really decent tool but I'm not believing in every day performance on lugs and most likely won't be my first tool grab for any of the general wheel changes I'll be doing.

I've have removed freshly torqued lugs in the that 90-100lb range with just a 2454 3/8" M12 Fuel wrench to show to some peeps here it can be done so no doubt in my mind the Stubby can do that too. 2554 worked pretty hard at it though but consider it's rated at about 1/2 the torque too.

M12 FUEL tools are little powerhouses and IMO by using the larger XC batteries it does help performance on them a lot


Still I wouldn't be without a larger capacity 18v impact wrench though, Mid Torque, High Torque. I'm finding the Mid Torque does the job quickly without a lot of hammering and of course lighter and smaller than the High Torque

Surprisingly and although I can't really say why thinking maybe its because a slightly higher RPM/IPM of the tool but my Milwaukee 18 volt 1/4" drivers do a halfway decent job on lugs and would give the compact 2754 a good run for it's money
 
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RKA

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Perhaps I'm overthinking things (that does tend to happen a lot) but the thought of trying to remove lug nuts off of rusty, nasty studs with a 1/4" hex piece of steel doing all the work doesn't seen like a very good idea.

It's not. You'll break the adapter eventually, so your thinking is correct. Some of these impact drivers put out a lot of torque. It's the wrong tool for the job, but it can spin those lug nuts off depending on the brand, motor and battery combo you're using.
 

dacan23

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The M12 Stubbies lose a lot of power with any kind of extension on them, you really just need to use only a deep socket on them to be reliable with lug nuts.
 

chipjumper

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Home Depot has the M18 Fuel 2767 High Torque (1400 ft lbs) 1/2” impact with XC5.0 battery, charger, and case for $269.

Might be able to get a discount if you’re a vet too. Internet SKU 306180606

Not sure if this is online only.


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engineer2

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I have never seen a 1/4” driver remove one lug nut on any car/truck.
I use my Makita for lug nuts all the time. I think it's good to 120 ft-lb, so it works on most passenger cars. For a truck I would step up to a real impact wrench.
 
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vanapplebomb

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Perhaps I'm overthinking things (that does tend to happen a lot) but the thought of trying to remove lug nuts off of rusty, nasty studs with a 1/4" hex piece of steel doing all the work doesn't seen like a very good idea.

It's not. You'll break the adapter eventually, so your thinking is correct. Some of these impact drivers put out a lot of torque. It's the wrong tool for the job, but it can spin those lug nuts off depending on the brand, motor and battery combo you're using.

Exactly. All this talk of little hex drivers being able to do big boy work is just nonsense. It is just the wrong tool for the job.

Only reason I tried it was because a buddy was talking smack about is M18 fuel 1/4” hex drive impact being able to pull his M14 lug nuts off his suv. I didn’t believe him, so I tried it with mine on my Jeep, nothing. Tried it on my wife’s compact car with M12 nuts freshly torqued to 87FtLbs with copper antisieze, still nothing. Tylicay my M18 can bust loose 10mm bolts, but not always. 8mm Or 5/16 and smaller it will consistently work on. Guys removing M14 lug nuts with any 1/4” hex driver should go buy a lottery ticket.

My go to for wheels is my stubby 1/2” impact. It isn’t the most powerful, but it is light and easy to handle, and it has only been defeated by one lugnut. It’s actually smaller, lighter, and way more powerful than my M18 Fuel impact driver.
 
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richfinn

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I can't understand why you would want a stubby impact wrench if you dont do any vehicle repairs except wheels?

I would swap it for a full sized impact wrench if possible

The time saver/convieniance for you would be knowing 100%
that your impact is strong enough to do the job after you've jacked the vehicle up, not having to worry about "maybe having to drop it back down and use a breaker bar"
 
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Shark Pilot

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My Makita 1/4" has taken off lug nuts torqued to 120 ft-lbs numerous times without breaking a sweat. Must be a Milwaukee thing if your's can't do it.
 

vanapplebomb

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I can't understand why you would want a stubby impact wrench if you dont do any vehicle repairs except wheels?

I would swap it for a full sized impact wrench if possible

The time saver/convieniance for you would be knowing 100%
that your impact is strong enough to do the job after you've jacked the vehicle up, not having to worry about "maybe having to drop it back down and use a breaker bar"

I use my 1/2” compact 80% of the time. I only break out the full size 1/2” or a 3/4” if I know I will need it, but when working on cars I almost always reach for the compact first. I see no need to use a full size on the wheels only to switch to my compact for suspension and Under-hood. Not only is it an unnecessary tool change, but the compact being light weight and well balanced is much easier on the wrists.

The one thing I do like about my full size 1/2” is that it is a pin clutch design, which is Much smoother than my compact twin hammer.
 

HankyPanky1

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The 1/2 Stubby impact can reliably remove lug nuts. I use the 3/8 stubby with an adapter for wheels and it works just fine, but my wheels are usually torqued instead of impacted on like most tire shops do. I also use it for light suspension work which is why I went 3/8, it is a nice fit for tie rods, sway bar links and control arm bolts. You can use it for brakes as well.

I also have the milwaukee 2853 m18 impact driver. I've tried it on lug nuts and it can remove lug nuts as well, but I wouldn't advise you to use it for reasons stated earlier in the thread. Just get a breaker bar with your impact if you are really worried about torque.
 

richfinn

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I use my 1/2” compact 80% of the time. I only break out the full size 1/2” or a 3/4” if I know I will need it, but when working on cars I almost always reach for the compact first. I see no need to use a full size on the wheels only to switch to my compact for suspension and Under-hood. Not only is it an unnecessary tool change, but the compact being light weight and well balanced is much easier on the wrists.

The one thing I do like about my full size 1/2” is that it is a pin clutch design, which is Much smoother than my compact twin hammer.

This Guy only does wheels, no underhood or suspension

Why would he buy a Stubby in the first place?
 

CafeTools

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I've never broke anything with my m18 fuel hex impact. And so what if an adapter breaks? It's got enough power for lug nuts so I use it. It's not the perfect tool for lug nuts but beats nothing.
 

richfinn

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I've never broke anything with my m18 fuel hex impact. And so what if an adapter breaks? It's got enough power for lug nuts so I use it. It's not the perfect tool for lug nuts but beats nothing.

I think he wanted "suggestions" on the best tool for the job in hand.

I'm saying a proper full size 1/2" impact is the best tool for wheel and tyre work
 

CafeTools

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What about driving screws or bolts? He needs to buy another hex version now.
 

DFB

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engineer2

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What is the current retail price on this impact- bare tool?
Makita XWT08Z 1/2 impact
$217.80 at Amazon for the bare tool.

I'm tempted to get one.
740 ft pounds of Torque and 1,180 ft pounds of breakaway torque should easily break any stuck fastener.
 

chipjumper

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Yeah bare tool. The red one is $269 at Home Depot with XC5.0 battery and charger. 1400ft lbs too. I’d stick with one brand though. No sense in having multiple battery systems. If you’re a Makita guy then turquoise is your color.


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tutti57

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M18 high torque for life nuts. I have the m12 1/2" stubby and it usually works for lug nuts but not always. Also hit or miss with brake caliper brackets. The big daddy will take off any lug nuts that aren't cross threaded. It will break the studs off of the cross threaded ones. Having both is ideal, but only getting one I would definitely get the big one.

Nissan Technician
 
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