I've been replacing the old, painted over outlets in my house. I found a few them were left loose because the outlet box was too far back behind the drywall. Maybe 1/4" or so. I've thought about adding small washers on the outlet mounting screws so that the outlet would be secure and flush with the wall. So what is the preferred method besides opening up the wall and moving the box forward?
Recessed wall outlets
- Thread starter Fixnfly
- Start date
Wrench97
Well-known member
They make box extenders > https://www.homedepot.com/p/Smart-F...VJ4FaBR33nACLEAQYAiABEgLmQ_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
The real issue is the hole in the drywall is to big. The ears on the device are supposed to rest on the wall and keep the outlet flush. Common practice is to set the box about an 1/8" recessed.
Yes to using small washer or a oversized nut to bring the outlets out even with the wall. There are also spacers made for the purpose available at an electrical supply.
If the boxes are really far back Arlington makes some extender rings that work nice.
Yes to using small washer or a oversized nut to bring the outlets out even with the wall. There are also spacers made for the purpose available at an electrical supply.
If the boxes are really far back Arlington makes some extender rings that work nice.
wssix99
Well-known member
They make special spacers/shims for this exact occurrence: https://www.idealindustries.ca/products/spacer-shims-2.html
^ You can get these at any big box home store.
Just cut off how ever many you need, fold them over, and attach to the device you are screwing into the box.
I always keep a hefty stock of these around. They make for perfect adjustments to switches and outlets (when the drywallers and electricians are not so perfect...) and they make for a perfectly solid device in the wall.
^ You can get these at any big box home store.
Just cut off how ever many you need, fold them over, and attach to the device you are screwing into the box.
I always keep a hefty stock of these around. They make for perfect adjustments to switches and outlets (when the drywallers and electricians are not so perfect...) and they make for a perfectly solid device in the wall.
This is the case with most of the outlets in my house. I've used a combination of the spacers and box extenders depending on the situation.
The person who did the electrical made most of the boxes more or less flush with the studs, instead of 1/2" proud to be flush with the drywall.
The person who did the electrical made most of the boxes more or less flush with the studs, instead of 1/2" proud to be flush with the drywall.
James-W
Well-known member
Whenever you work on projects that other homeowners have done, especially when there was no permit involved, there is no telling what you will find. Sometimes you will find that everything was done correctly, other times you will end up with a real mess on your hands and it needs to be totally revamped. It usually turns into a time consuming and sometimes an expensive project, but it can be kind of fun to make it right.
rlitman
Well-known member
No way. You leaned using soft plastic cover plates. Try that with a melamine plate cover and you'll crack it, because you're bending the middle in. The ears should be about 1/16" above the wall surface for ideal fitment of the receptacle/switch to plate.
tonyciambrone
Well-known member
What...Why do they put the ears on if they are supposed to free float...
You cut/ bend them off when not needed/ installing in exposed work. The switch plate cover is just that...a cover. It is not to secure the outlet to the wall
rlitman
Well-known member
The ears stabilize the switch/receptacle against the back of the plate cover. Nothing floats.
Terry D
Well-known member
Receptacle spacers, the device will then be tight to the box. Never rely on the cover supporting a device
Sent from my SM-G960U using The Garage Journal mobile app
Sent from my SM-G960U using The Garage Journal mobile app
JRC3
Well-known member
They make special spacers/shims for this exact occurrence: https://www.idealindustries.ca/products/spacer-shims-2.html
I use these all the time in old and brand new homes. Sometimes only the top or bottom of the drywall is over-cut or damaged. They work great.
Robbie B
Well-known member
They are called plaster ears for a reason. They really worked well with metal boxes. The plastic boxes are so big if the hole is even a little oversized the ears don't catch.
Here's a box in my own house. Plaster ears resting on the plaster just like they are supposed to. Cover fits good and isn't cracked. This definitely isn't a flexible plastic cover either.
Here's a box in my own house. Plaster ears resting on the plaster just like they are supposed to. Cover fits good and isn't cracked. This definitely isn't a flexible plastic cover either.
Attachments
Mr_fixit
Well-known member
JRC3
Well-known member
I could be wrong, but I think those were already posted. Well, maybe not the yellow ones.
wssix99
Well-known member
The Roto-Zip ruined this.
Now that drywall companies install by tacking board up and then roto-ziping after the fact to cut out the holes, they leave big gaping wounds around the boxes - just small enough for wall plates to cover, but too large for the ears to rest properly.^ Many of the cut-out's in my new house are so bad, the switch plates don't even cover, so we're taking care of that as we paint. (We still need the shims to get a solid device on the box.)
Raisedonadeere
Well-known member
If I had a box that looked that good I think I would put a picture of it on my tool box somewhere just so I could remind myself that I not imagining that I have one that is not a bit of a mess.