va.grouseman
Well-known member
Outlaw, by the third time I read that book, Moby and Ahab had become the best of friends.---Practically inseparable.
The VISES of Garage Journal
- Thread starter mjozefow
- Start date
Productbob
Well-known member
va.grouseman
Well-known member
Naw, I just made that part up.
Shiftless
Well-known member
Bob:
Nice job on that Columbian. Lovin’ the Regal Red
Is that silver paint on the pipe jaws? How about the slide? It’s hard to get them so clean looking. What’s your trick?
Nice job on that Columbian. Lovin’ the Regal Red
Is that silver paint on the pipe jaws? How about the slide? It’s hard to get them so clean looking. What’s your trick?
Last edited:
Well it has been quite some time since I had a vise project to share with you all. Last weekend I picked up a Rock Island 143B. This is a 5" vise that was born in the 1920's or before I think as there are no date stamps. If I am way off on my dates please correct me!
Last night I brought the antique into work to give it a bath in a heated aqueous parts washer. After about 30 minutes I did a general inspection. Well, unfortunately I discovered a crack where the cantilevered support for the dynamic jaw meets the base of the static side. The crack is only partially through, thankfully.
Well, I am always up for a challenge so my mind immediately started thinking of ways to keep the 143B in service. I first inspected to see how angled the support is due to the crack, turns out the far tip of the support is about .050" lower than it should be. I wondered how much of that could be corrected with just a Pony brand pipe clamp passing through the base to the other side. To my surprise I was able to bring the tip of the support up so it was only about .025" low just by using the Pony pipe clamp. I was pleased to see this much correction could be made with just one relatively low-force clamp. This led me down the path that I will go down to fix the crack as well as keep it from getting worse. Now, I will preface by saying I am more of a machinist than a welder. With that in mind, plan A is to drill, tap and counter-bore for two 1/2-13 socket head cap screws. The two 1/2-13 SHCS should hopefully provide enough clamping force to close the crack and support the cantilevered support during use.
The crack is visible in a picture below. It is just to the left of the red line. The crack is pretty much identical on each side. I had some spare time so I created a 3D model in SolidWorks of the lower half of the RI 143B along with my proposed changes. The 3D model images show the crack with red faces. The first 3D model image is just an isometric view, the second image is a cross section view of the proposed counter-bores and their approximate depths.
I will be sure to post additional pictures as I progress though this 143B resurrection. If this repair works out satisfactory my next machining project with be retrofitting a newer model RI swivel base on to the 143B so stay tuned.
Also, I am curious if KMScott has any recommendations or first-hand-knowledge to share on the proposed repair (besides making sure I have a good 1/2-13 pulley tap!). Thanks!
Last night I brought the antique into work to give it a bath in a heated aqueous parts washer. After about 30 minutes I did a general inspection. Well, unfortunately I discovered a crack where the cantilevered support for the dynamic jaw meets the base of the static side. The crack is only partially through, thankfully.
Well, I am always up for a challenge so my mind immediately started thinking of ways to keep the 143B in service. I first inspected to see how angled the support is due to the crack, turns out the far tip of the support is about .050" lower than it should be. I wondered how much of that could be corrected with just a Pony brand pipe clamp passing through the base to the other side. To my surprise I was able to bring the tip of the support up so it was only about .025" low just by using the Pony pipe clamp. I was pleased to see this much correction could be made with just one relatively low-force clamp. This led me down the path that I will go down to fix the crack as well as keep it from getting worse. Now, I will preface by saying I am more of a machinist than a welder. With that in mind, plan A is to drill, tap and counter-bore for two 1/2-13 socket head cap screws. The two 1/2-13 SHCS should hopefully provide enough clamping force to close the crack and support the cantilevered support during use.
The crack is visible in a picture below. It is just to the left of the red line. The crack is pretty much identical on each side. I had some spare time so I created a 3D model in SolidWorks of the lower half of the RI 143B along with my proposed changes. The 3D model images show the crack with red faces. The first 3D model image is just an isometric view, the second image is a cross section view of the proposed counter-bores and their approximate depths.
I will be sure to post additional pictures as I progress though this 143B resurrection. If this repair works out satisfactory my next machining project with be retrofitting a newer model RI swivel base on to the 143B so stay tuned.
Also, I am curious if KMScott has any recommendations or first-hand-knowledge to share on the proposed repair (besides making sure I have a good 1/2-13 pulley tap!). Thanks!
Attachments
Last edited:
KMScott
Well-known member
Your repair looks like the way to go, I would suggest dry tapping the threads so no oil gets in there and Silver Solder the crack. I use a magnet to remove the chips, those chips in a deep hole are hard to get out. If I was doing it I would not tighten the two bolts till after heating the casting so the flux can creep in the crack, after the flux turns liquid then tighten the bolts, having a heavy chamfer all around and filling that in will also help. Welding would also work but in my opinion not as strong as the solder. Look forward to seeing your repair finished. Good Luck.
Attachments
I guess I didn't mention that I intend on leaving the bolts in place forever, maybe you realize that. Do you think the silver solder is worth the extra effort? Will I have to work extremely fast tightening up the bolts once the solder wicks into the crack? I am wondering if by the time I pull the heat source away and shut it off the solder will be set. Thoughts?
Unless there is a heat source to the silver solder it will solidify quickly. You need two people to do what you are talking about if I understand what you are saying.
Productbob
Well-known member
Shift & Smitty thanks! 3 different color coats of paint and then some kind of epoxy coating to remove but vise was pretty solid.
Shift The vise looks a little shinier in the picture than it does in person but no silver paint, it's all bare metal. It's what I didn't do that's probably the difference; I usually cover all the cleaned up vises in clear coat enamel and that darkens the metal. This time it was simple green & brushes; machine oil with a couple of grades of steel wool; scotch brite pad; metal wax and buff. starting to work on the Reed 34 and gonna try Blue Magic on that slide.
Shift The vise looks a little shinier in the picture than it does in person but no silver paint, it's all bare metal. It's what I didn't do that's probably the difference; I usually cover all the cleaned up vises in clear coat enamel and that darkens the metal. This time it was simple green & brushes; machine oil with a couple of grades of steel wool; scotch brite pad; metal wax and buff. starting to work on the Reed 34 and gonna try Blue Magic on that slide.
Productbob
Well-known member
XCMT Good luck on resurrecting your RI, looking forward to watching the progress
dct55 well done on grabbing that C1, looks in great shape.
dct55 well done on grabbing that C1, looks in great shape.
KMScott
Well-known member
Yes the bolts will be soldered in and can not be removed, what I was saying is that you want the flux in the crack before the solder is added. The heating will be a dull red so you have plenty of time to tighten the screws. Then reheat and solder, practice, practice and practice on a few pieces so you know when the right time is to add the Silver Solder if you go this way.
Attachments
txlonghorn1989
Well-known member
- Joined
- Feb 27, 2017
- Messages
- 2,786
d55: You ****!
Shiftless
Well-known member
dct55:
No doubt about it..l A very nice C1 for $75
YOU ****!
I paid $300 for a C1 in that kind of shape and thought I got a fair deal.
I wouldn’t be surprised if your seller got 10 more phone calls by the time you were there to pick that one up.
XCM:
Your proposed fix for that support shelf is admirable. KMS has given you some good guidance. That’s the way he fixes cracks on the back end of slides.
.
.
No doubt about it..l A very nice C1 for $75
YOU ****!
I paid $300 for a C1 in that kind of shape and thought I got a fair deal.
I wouldn’t be surprised if your seller got 10 more phone calls by the time you were there to pick that one up.
XCM:
Your proposed fix for that support shelf is admirable. KMS has given you some good guidance. That’s the way he fixes cracks on the back end of slides.
.
.
Last edited:
dct55:
No doubt about it..l A very nice C1 for $75
YOU ****!
I paid $300 for a C1 in that kind of shape and thought I got a fair deal.
I wouldn’t be surprised if your seller got 10 more phone calls by the time you were there to pick that one up.
XCM:
Your proposed fix for that support shelf is admirable. KMS has given you some good guidance. That’s the way he fixes cracks on the back end of slides.
.
.
Yes, I'm just surprised he didn't back out. I drove all the way to pick up a Wilton 9450 I was first caller on for $50 some time ago, only to have no one answer the door. The next week it was back on CL for $250.
Shiftless
Well-known member
ken:
Unfortunately most of us who have been buying stuff on C/L for a long time have similar stories. Some people are apparently are too lazy to do a couple of minutes research about the value of tools (eBay sold items for example). Those same people sometimes don’t follow through with their promise to sell their item at the agreed price to guys like you or me who are quick to respond. Extra money in their pocket means more to them than honoring a promise.
Unfortunately most of us who have been buying stuff on C/L for a long time have similar stories. Some people are apparently are too lazy to do a couple of minutes research about the value of tools (eBay sold items for example). Those same people sometimes don’t follow through with their promise to sell their item at the agreed price to guys like you or me who are quick to respond. Extra money in their pocket means more to them than honoring a promise.
Last edited:
TOTO
Well-known member
Picked up this Columbian 804 at an auction last night. Had no idea what is was until I got home. It needs some work but overall its not too bad. Will get it cleaned up and check it out further.
Shiftless
Well-known member
Toto :
That’s a pretty rare model. It’s made of welded steel plate which is more durable than cast iron. Vintage 1950’s I believe. Low production numbers and discontinued quickly.
It was originally bright red in color. If I remember correctly, there is a GJ member? who sells duplicate labels for that model if you choose to restore it to factory appearance. You can find labels for sale on eBay.
Nice score!
.
.
That’s a pretty rare model. It’s made of welded steel plate which is more durable than cast iron. Vintage 1950’s I believe. Low production numbers and discontinued quickly.
It was originally bright red in color. If I remember correctly, there is a GJ member? who sells duplicate labels for that model if you choose to restore it to factory appearance. You can find labels for sale on eBay.
Nice score!
.
.
Last edited:
TOTO
Well-known member
Thanks Shiftless
Shiftless
Well-known member
Here’s another rare one...
I picked it up a couple of days ago with a big assist from friend and fellow GJ member outlaw.
Made in Canada it’s a Henry #1
3 inch wide jaws
3 1/2 inch capacity
Weighing in at 12 1/2 pounds
Here is some interesting background information courtesy of fellow GJ member Jazz1
In 1940 an enterprising pattern-maker, William Joseph Henry, started a manufacturing plant in a small garage in his backyard. The firm produced one product—bench vises—which were in high demand by the armed services. Crafttools Ltd. was created. Over the next 4 years the business grew and by 1944 Craftools was manufacturing arbor presses, buffers, grinders and their line of vises. They supplied all the vise equipment used by the Canadian mobile army workshop trucks in England, Italy, Russia, China and India. They also made their vises for air force repair shops, army training schools and naval yards. In 1944 they built a foundry to produce their own castings. By 1949 Craftools was the largest supplier of vises in Canada.
In 1945 Mr. Henry formed a second company called Henry Power Tools Limited. The purpose was to leverage their craftsmen, foundry and casting expertise into a line of woodworking machinery. Mr. Henry oversaw the engineering specifications for the whole “Craftmaster” line, which included bandsaws, jointers, lathes and other machinery.
Their quality reputation grew and in 1947 Henry Power Tools expanded to respond to increased US and world demand. They expanded into the US as well as India, Australia, South Africa, and many countries in Africa. By this time it was the largest manufacturing firm of its kind in Canada.
In 1947 Mr. Henry died at the age of 44. His widow, Mrs. Viola Henry was active in the business and continued to run it along with the General Manager, John Gilchrist.
In 1951 Mrs. Henry sold her position in the two companies to a group of local Londoners headed by Mr. Gilchrist, who became the President of both firms. Under his guidance the two companies continued to expand.
In 1953 both firms were sold to the EX-CELL-O Corporation of Canada Ltd. a subsidiary of EX-CELL-O Machine Tools Inc. of the US (makers of tooling for the automotive industry). At the same time the power tools line was sold to machinery distributor Strongridge Ltd. of London.
Before 1953, Henry Power Tools's Craftmaster line was sold by Porter-Cable, badged with the Craftmaster and Porter-Cable names. It appears that that OEM arrangement ceased when Strongridge bought Henry. Foster Manufacturing Co. also put their name on Henry tools, including the tablesaw shown on the cover of an undated catalog.
I picked it up a couple of days ago with a big assist from friend and fellow GJ member outlaw.
Made in Canada it’s a Henry #1
3 inch wide jaws
3 1/2 inch capacity
Weighing in at 12 1/2 pounds
Here is some interesting background information courtesy of fellow GJ member Jazz1
In 1940 an enterprising pattern-maker, William Joseph Henry, started a manufacturing plant in a small garage in his backyard. The firm produced one product—bench vises—which were in high demand by the armed services. Crafttools Ltd. was created. Over the next 4 years the business grew and by 1944 Craftools was manufacturing arbor presses, buffers, grinders and their line of vises. They supplied all the vise equipment used by the Canadian mobile army workshop trucks in England, Italy, Russia, China and India. They also made their vises for air force repair shops, army training schools and naval yards. In 1944 they built a foundry to produce their own castings. By 1949 Craftools was the largest supplier of vises in Canada.
In 1945 Mr. Henry formed a second company called Henry Power Tools Limited. The purpose was to leverage their craftsmen, foundry and casting expertise into a line of woodworking machinery. Mr. Henry oversaw the engineering specifications for the whole “Craftmaster” line, which included bandsaws, jointers, lathes and other machinery.
Their quality reputation grew and in 1947 Henry Power Tools expanded to respond to increased US and world demand. They expanded into the US as well as India, Australia, South Africa, and many countries in Africa. By this time it was the largest manufacturing firm of its kind in Canada.
In 1947 Mr. Henry died at the age of 44. His widow, Mrs. Viola Henry was active in the business and continued to run it along with the General Manager, John Gilchrist.
In 1951 Mrs. Henry sold her position in the two companies to a group of local Londoners headed by Mr. Gilchrist, who became the President of both firms. Under his guidance the two companies continued to expand.
In 1953 both firms were sold to the EX-CELL-O Corporation of Canada Ltd. a subsidiary of EX-CELL-O Machine Tools Inc. of the US (makers of tooling for the automotive industry). At the same time the power tools line was sold to machinery distributor Strongridge Ltd. of London.
Before 1953, Henry Power Tools's Craftmaster line was sold by Porter-Cable, badged with the Craftmaster and Porter-Cable names. It appears that that OEM arrangement ceased when Strongridge bought Henry. Foster Manufacturing Co. also put their name on Henry tools, including the tablesaw shown on the cover of an undated catalog.
Attachments
Last edited:
drokihazan
Well-known member
- Joined
- Apr 8, 2018
- Messages
- 271
https://imgur.com/gallery/jhx4tYz
Howdy folks. I purchased a Parker 434 1/2 a couple of months back from a local seller. The vise is great, but the jaws are pretty beat. Any recommendations on where to get new jaws for this vise?
Pics included, because, you know, it’s pretty.
Howdy folks. I purchased a Parker 434 1/2 a couple of months back from a local seller. The vise is great, but the jaws are pretty beat. Any recommendations on where to get new jaws for this vise?
Pics included, because, you know, it’s pretty.
mikeswrenches
Well-known member
- Joined
- Apr 20, 2015
- Messages
- 170
bastel, thanks for the link! There is a lot of good interesting vise information in the catalog so I downloaded it, otherwise I’d never find it again.
Mike
pelletman
Well-known member
Went to get this 5" Wilton this afternoon and came back with another.... I don't suppose anyone has a spare fixed pipe jaw laying around? Just gonna clean it up in the parts washer and use it.
Attachments
Hello Barnes,
Well, aren't you special. For what it's worth, I'm not the least bit interested in "you ****" awards. If someone posts an item for sale, I think it's perfectly acceptable to pay their asking price. I've never tried to negotiate a lower price on something that wasn't over priced to begin with. This vise was the best deal I've found so far, so I shared the info with this forum. You have a right to your opinion, but you don't know me, nor do you know what "my goals" are.
I did not think I was special? I just am trying to not waste MY time and MY gas money going to look at something that was posted too cheap. I take off an hour or two, use a half of tank of gas and someone beats me to it or it gets sold to a better offer. Since I did not think? I was not responding to your specific post, I do not really understand why you wrote "you don't know me, nor do you know what my goals are."? Sorry I offended you. I forget I have a thicker skin than some people on here.
Duker
Well-known member
How about we skip the passive aggressive comments and just be happy and respectful of those who get a vise wether a “you ****” deal or a fair deal. This is one of the great GJ threads because of the information and because it didn’t head south after page 4. Let’s keep it that way.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Definitely is original pin stripping. This example has a fair amount of it left and gives a good general example of how the jewelers vises left the prentiss factory.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I stand corrected. I actually was thinking it might help someone not miss out on something they really wanted. It is just so hard to find anything around here that it is really disappointing to miss something.
Productbob
Well-known member
Duker well said
GETRIDAONE
Well-known member
I think I was the one RBarnes directed his comment at and I wasn't in the least insulted by it. It seems like a legitimate tactic to getting something for a "you **** plus" price rather than just "you ****".
I just don't go long distances anymore, or buy vises just because they're for sale. I've passed on a lot of vises lately like a 5" jaw Prentiss 516 for $80 just because I've got enough iron clogging up my woodworking shop!
I've moved into the "selective" buyer category. I will buy something if it's ridiculously cheap or if it's one of my quest vises - Wilton C2 or C3, Reed 2C, 4C, Nu-typ or Parker rotator. That's about it going forward.
I just don't go long distances anymore, or buy vises just because they're for sale. I've passed on a lot of vises lately like a 5" jaw Prentiss 516 for $80 just because I've got enough iron clogging up my woodworking shop!
I've moved into the "selective" buyer category. I will buy something if it's ridiculously cheap or if it's one of my quest vises - Wilton C2 or C3, Reed 2C, 4C, Nu-typ or Parker rotator. That's about it going forward.
wrenchguy
Well-known member
Outlawmws
Well-known member
Rusty, I like the way Boley approached the exposed screw design. Well thought out! If I'm not mistaken, it also provides a secondary guide.
Private Lugnutz
Well-known member
Not sure what you mean by exposed, but it appears to have a threaded shaft and follow the same principle as the Bison-Bial. Dove-tailed, too!
On those the spindle which is actually the "nut" (female threaded) is what rotates and the screw is rotation-ally stationary.
One thing that they don't have, unlike the FPU is a gib to take up wear. The dovetail is what gives the two jaws alignment.
One thing that they don't have, unlike the FPU is a gib to take up wear. The dovetail is what gives the two jaws alignment.