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Framing Tall Walls

pinkcarp

New member
Joined
Dec 21, 2019
Messages
1
Location
Chattanooga
Hello All!

I was referred here from a contractor forum I spend a lot of time on.

I am going to be building a new stand alone garage so that my existing garage can be converted to a space for my father to move into. The garage will be approximately 48x32 and for now will primarily be for storage but I would like to build in some flexibility for future use. There is a chance I may divide the space into 2 floors in the future so was considering framing 17 or 18 ft walls so a middle floor system could be added later. We did one a few years ago with 14 ft 2x6 walls and the inspector didn't say anything but the way I interpret code, anything over 10 or 12 feet must be engineered. So how tall can I go with a 2x6 wall? What else could I use?

Option 2 might be a "prefab" metal building. I have not messed with these much but might be an option. How do they compare cost rise to wood especially if I want to make it look like traditional construction (i.e. overhangs, hardie siding and shingle roof)?

Any other option to consider?
Thanks all!
Eric
 
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Ben W

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 20, 2008
Messages
67
Location
NY
I put 18' 3-ply laminated 2x6 posts on top of a concrete stem wall. Ledger board picks up floor trusses clear spanning 32'. Install the posts now and then add the second floor later.
 

mike93lx

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
Dec 9, 2013
Messages
37,941
Location
Richmond, VA
Hello All!

I was referred here from a contractor forum I spend a lot of time on.

I am going to be building a new stand alone garage so that my existing garage can be converted to a space for my father to move into. The garage will be approximately 48x32 and for now will primarily be for storage but I would like to build in some flexibility for future use. There is a chance I may divide the space into 2 floors in the future so was considering framing 17 or 18 ft walls so a middle floor system could be added later. We did one a few years ago with 14 ft 2x6 walls and the inspector didn't say anything but the way I interpret code, anything over 10 or 12 feet must be engineered. So how tall can I go with a 2x6 wall? What else could I use?

Option 2 might be a "prefab" metal building. I have not messed with these much but might be an option. How do they compare cost rise to wood especially if I want to make it look like traditional construction (i.e. overhangs, hardie siding and shingle roof)?

Any other option to consider?
Thanks all!
Eric

You could use lvl or lsl studs if going higher, whatever the engineer specs.

They would be much stronger, straighter and more consistent too.
 
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strutaeng

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 12, 2011
Messages
2,293
Location
Dallas, TX
I have a 17'-1" tall wall with 2x6 @ 16" o.c. for my house addition. Not sure how much higher you want to go. My framers had fun raising those walls.

I designed a project that had 20' tall walls and those were 2x8s.

Wall finish types play a big role on these tall walls. Brittle finishes like stucco have more stringent deflection limits, while siding allows for more deflection.

Also, if you want a stronger wall and/or straighter lines, there are engineered lumber options such as LSL. That's pretty expensive though.
 

rayra

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 1, 2014
Messages
4,724
Location
Escaped from Los Angeles
look up 'post-frame construction'. And there are several youtube channels about it. Also use the key word 'barndominium', you'll find lots of design info.
You want 17-18' from ground slab to top sill / roof trusses. That will give you full height under the 2nd floor / mezzanine. Full height for both levels.
 

Innovate1

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 28, 2014
Messages
4,299
Location
Illinois near St. Louis, Missouri
You need to find out what the local AHJ (code inspectors) will allow. You are right on the limit for "prescriptive" wall height limit of 12'. For those there are tables in the code on allowed construction methods. Local has some detail sheets on what they expect for "portal framing" to add stiffness around large openings like OHD.
One way used here to get around this is to make a foundation stub wall. For 14' I was allowed to have a 2' stub wall and 12' framed wall without the extra engineering. But I decided to move the location and here I was approved for 14' framed walls with no questions. I will be paying attention to the details of bracing even though the AHJ doesn't seem that interested in the details at the new location. Several reasons for the location change but there was very restrictive code on all kinds of details and restrictions on what I could do myself. You really need to find out what they expect/allow.
 
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