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The Willows Barn Build (32x72x14 with loft)

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Kubota Tee

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Great build thread. I am envious of the simple excavation and ease of building 25’ from the lake. Awesome!

You created a great looking building, congrats and enjoy! Keep the updates coming!


Sent from my iPhone using Garage Journal

tachyon - Thanks for your comments! Yes - we are very fortunate indeed. I still pinch myself sometimes to make sure we really do get to live in such a beautiful location.

Your name seems to be a hint towards a fellow Star Trek fan?
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Kubota Tee

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Kubota Tee

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LET'S TALK DRAINS


Knowing that the building would soon be closed in for the winter, I started planning for the eventual concrete floor. I already knew that I wanted good drainage for washing down vehicles, dealing with melting snow, etc. I also knew that I didn't want a bunch of hills and valleys which would be associated with individual floor drains in the middle of each bay, so I started playing around with a large trench drain down the middle of the barn - long ways.

Now that I was confirmed on a trench drain, I started researching options and ended up with the PolyLok drainage system. Here are some pics of the drain design and materials


Drain design
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The PolyLok drains come in 4' sections. I plan on using 10 sections
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I ended up numbering the 10 sections as well as where I would add the drains according to my design
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This will make the install easier once we get to that stage
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More on the drain install a little later . . .
 
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Kubota Tee

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ASSEMBLING THE FRONT ENTRYWAY


One of the most prominent exterior features on The Willows is the massive post and beam front entryway. The 12x12 posts and large beam sections seem justified against the overall size of the building. I loved seeing this go up!!


Here are some of the components - everything came from Wisconsin and was milled, cut and pre-assembled to test the structure before it was shipped.
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The posts are set on top of custom made stainless steel bases that are cemented into the core of the block bases
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Good thing we had some heavy machinery to help maneuver everything into place.
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Very little drilling was required to ensure a good fit with the wooden pins. This is relatively fresh cut wood and will require 2 full seasons to fully dry out and leach out all the brown tannins.
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The roof boards are 5/4" x 6" tongue and groove pine. They were prefinished with a clear sealant on the underside
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Roof boards are in! I love the way this looks - very attractive.
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Here's the finished product, ready for a black standing seam metal roof.
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Kubota Tee

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ROOFING INSTALL AND SIDING CHOICES


When selecting our roofing material, it was fairly straight forward - just match the existing roof of Sheldon House. This is a dimensional asphalt shingle in a very neutral color that can blend in well with many exterior siding options.

The siding on the other hand was going to be a more difficult choice. We had used a pre-painted Hardie cement board siding on Sheldon House and have not been very impressed with it. My wife never liked the color and we often talked about painting it once we had the next part of our master plan built - so . . . decision time! We knew we wanted a 6" reveal lap siding for the main level and batten board siding for the upper loft area. We also knew we wanted this building to be as maintenance free as possible, so solid vinyl trim and a high quality vinyl siding were the materials of choice. Now, if you have ever tried to source a 6" reveal vinyl siding product you will know the challenge we went through. In order to get the quality level and the colors we wanted, we ended up going with an insulated vinyl product - not the least expensive of options for sure!

Here are some pics related to roofing and siding choices.

Underlayment down and loading up the shingles
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Upper roof went really quick - onto the lower roof section
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Rare view from the east side - with the lake being frozen
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Finished just in time for the next snow storm!
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Final siding colors selected
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Kubota Tee

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CLOSING IN THE WILLOWS

Roof is on, building wrap installed, just a few more things to get The Willows totally dried in for the winter and before siding starts. Here are some pics leading up to siding getting installed.


4 10x10 Garage Doors getting stalled
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North door sealed up and passage door installed - vinyl trim boards starting to go up
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Kubota Tee

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Looks awesome. Interested to see how the interior columns work with your layout.

Paul_VR6 - that is an excellent question and one that I have had during the entire design and build process. Since they are located between the bays, I am hoping they will not be an issue. I do plan on using them for mounting electrical outlets, hose reels for water and air, as well as a convenient place to hang a broom or snow shovel.
 

spike99250

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What are you using as an underlayment for the Black metal on the porch roof. It almost looks like it has a shingle pattern on it. Beautiful structure.
 
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Kubota Tee

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What are you using as an underlayment for the Black metal on the porch roof. It almost looks like it has a shingle pattern on it. Beautiful structure.

Spike - nice catch on the underlayment! This is a synthetic, peel and stick waterproof underlayment - sort of like an ice and water barrier. My builder said it can stay uncovered for up to 6 months without any issues. I'm guessing they put the shingle pattern on there to mimic a standard roof in circumstances where it has to be exposed for long periods of time.
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Kubota Tee

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Very nice build and lot.

Thanks Boosted! We have been blessed for sure. Each season brings new joys as we stay pretty active around the property - always something to do, but never a burden.

Hope you can follow along for the rest of the build.
 
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Kubota Tee

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LOFT STAIRWAY

Framing in the stairway was a bit complicated due to 1) not having a concrete floor to support it and 2) figuring out how to get enough headroom at the top of the steps to meet code standards.

In the end, the challenges produced a superior result creating some much needed storage with a coat closet at the landing before it turns for the final few steps. Here are pics showing the framing


Initial Framing
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Adding in the framed walls
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Some added supports
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The Landing view from the loft
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Some closet details
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View of the The Willows Shop Area from halfway up the stairway
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Kubota Tee

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I'M UP - LET THE WIRING BEGIN!

Up until now, my involvement has been minimal - mainly decision making, coordinating schedules with our general contractor and writing checks :headscrat

When we signed the contract with our builder, we agreed that I would self-perform and/or self contract various elements of the build process. The first of my self-performance responsibilities is the rough-in wiring for the loft. I have wired our last 2 houses, so I'm pretty comfortable with this work - I also like to keep things neat and tidy as you will see from the pics below:


Self-performing is always an opportunity for me to pic up new tools. I burned out my cordless drill on my last job, so I decided to pick up a gently used heavy duty angle drill. Also in this pic was a local Craigslist find for 8-3 wire that I will use for all the 220v, 2 pole connections.
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Here's the inside of the drill case
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Meter box installed and inspected - I am bringing in a separate 200amp service for The Willows
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To make the job easier, I built this wiring cart from scrap material I had laying around.
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While I am comfortable with wiring, I prefer to be in total control. I installed a separate cutoff between the meter and the electrical panel. This allows me to isolate power while working in the electrical panel. A few extra dollars, but lots of peace of mind and I'm still saving a ton of $$ by doing it myself.
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Example of wire management with the rough-in
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Another example . . .
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Kubota Tee

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LET'S TALK LIGHTING

The last time I installed ceiling lights, they were 6" Halo can lights - that was 10 years ago! Lighting has come a long way since then with all the advancements of LED technology - various color temperatures - installation methods, etc. After researching various options, I landed on some newly introduced 4" LED cans that can be installed indoor or outdoor. I ended up wiring for over 35 of these units.


These install after drywall is already up!
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The lens tilts and rotates for maximum flexibility
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They tilt a full 90 degrees, so cathedral ceilings are no issue
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Here is a picture of a temporary installation in the soffits. I wanted to check brightness and color temperature for using these as exterior lighting.
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dirtybrownracing

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Really like the 4" can lights. especially using them for the exterior accent lighting like it seems to appear you're doing. Nice build, looking forward to seeing more progress!
 
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Kubota Tee

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Really like the 4" can lights. especially using them for the exterior accent lighting like it seems to appear you're doing. Nice build, looking forward to seeing more progress!

Dirtybrownracing - thanks for your kind words and YES - I also really like how these can lights look. I'm really impressed with how bright they are for such a small light. I will definitely need a dimmer for the final install. My plans for the exterior lights is to install a WEMO dimmer switch that I can program for on / off and dimmer settings.
 
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Boostingaz

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LET'S TALK LIGHTING

The last time I installed ceiling lights, they were 6" Halo can lights - that was 10 years ago! Lighting has come a long way since then with all the advancements of LED technology - various color temperatures - installation methods, etc. After researching various options, I landed on some newly introduced 4" LED cans that can be installed indoor or outdoor. I ended up wiring for over 35 of these units.

What brand and model are they and where did you get them? I am starting my garage soon and those look like a nice option from exterior.
 
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Kubota Tee

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What brand and model are they and where did you get them? I am starting my garage soon and those look like a nice option from exterior.

Boostingaz - Here is the information related to our 4" LED ceiling lights.

WAC Lighting R4ERAR-W930-WT Lotos 4in Round Kit LED Recessed Light, Single, Adjustable Gimble

I found them for 19.95 on various lighting websites and also leveraged the internet pricing to have our local lighting store price match them. Use the description to search and you find multiple sites that offer these lights. Good luck with your garage!!
 

Boostingaz

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Boostingaz - Here is the information related to our 4" LED ceiling lights.

WAC Lighting R4ERAR-W930-WT Lotos 4in Round Kit LED Recessed Light, Single, Adjustable Gimble

I found them for 19.95 on various lighting websites and also leveraged the internet pricing to have our local lighting store price match them. Use the description to search and you find multiple sites that offer these lights. Good luck with your garage!!

Thank you sir. I have not looked around yet but saved the info! Hopefully someone has then in a brown or bronze.

Beautiful garage/barn by the way.
 
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Kubota Tee

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Thank you sir. I have not looked around yet but saved the info! Hopefully someone has then in a brown or bronze.

Beautiful garage/barn by the way.

Boostingaz - you are very welcome and happy searching for your color choices - I have only seen these in white.

Thanks for your kind words about The Willows!
 
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Kubota Tee

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TESTING THE WIRELESS BRIDGE

After settling in on the Ubiquiti product line for getting internet over to The Willows, I placed the order for the NanoBeams which will create the wireless bridge between Sheldon House and The Willows.

I watched a few YouTube videos on how to set everything up (pretty easy process), and arranged a temporary setup between an upper bedroom of Sheldon House and the large south facing window of The Willows.

Here are some pics!


NanoBeams Arrived!
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Temporary install for line of site to the upper bedroom window
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Temporary mounting for the test
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While I know a little about networking, I am by no means an expert and don't fully understand how these devices work - HOWEVER, I was pretty impressed by how easy they were to setup as well as being able to get them to work through glass. I get a "yellow" rated signal and am pretty confident this will turn to "green" once I get them mounted in their permanent locations under the gable soffits of each building.

Now - how to get an internet cable up into the garage attic of Sheldon House :headscrat
 
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jeepxj

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whew doggy are they some overkill. some loco's woulda managed that distance in case anyone else has a similar distance and clear line of sight
 
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Kubota Tee

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whew doggy are they some overkill. some loco's woulda managed that distance in case anyone else has a similar distance and clear line of sight

Jeepxj - when I read that the NanoBeams can be used for distances up to 5km I thought the same thing!! At least I will have the comfort of knowing I have a good signal and can stream whatever media I want without worrying about signal lose caused by stretching a copper cable at it's maximum range.
 
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Kubota Tee

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PREPARING THE SHOP FLOOR FOR CONCRETE - STEP 1 (DRAIN & INSULATION)


With the electric rough-in for the loft almost complete, it was time to start getting the shop floor prepared for an early Spring pour. I can't tell you how anxious I was to get a solid floor in the shop after dealing with the sand for most of the winter.

The concrete crew came out and did the initial sloping work as well as setting the trench drain in place. Then we had the 6mil vapor barrier put down followed by 2" foam insulation. Unfortunately, some of the material had to come back up in order to have the plumber complete the drain tie-ins. The floor drain will tie in with the downspouts and then empty out to daylight in the back of the building.

Once the drain was put in place, we leveled everything again, replaced the vapor barrier and foam board, then laid out the 6x6 wire mesh sheets that will hold down the radiant tubes as well as give some extra strength to the concrete.

We plan on pouring a 5" thick slab of #4000 concrete mix. I also dug out an additional 2" for 3' diameter sections to support an eventual 2 post lift. I know the manufacturers claim a 4" slab is good enough, but 7" should be better!! :)


We tied in 3 different drain ports across the 10 4' sections of trench drain
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The drains were set at the 10', 20' and 30' marks for even drainage across the 40' trench drain.
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Drains are in and sand is leveled off
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I duct taped the drain covers on the curved side which will be the bottom in the final install with the flat side of the drain cover facing up.
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Kubota Tee

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PREPARING THE SHOP FLOOR FOR CONCRETE - STEP 2 (RADIANT DESIGN)


I had planned on using radiant heat from the very beginning and furthermore had planned on doing the work myself. This will be my second experience installing radiant heat with the first experience being when we built Sheldon House. The Willows will be much easier with only 2 zones (shop and loft). The loop design, BTU calculations and suggested panel layout was all done by a professional with me doing the grunt work. Using those designs, I came up with my own drawings showing all the parts I would need in one document.

I plan on using Grunfos Alpha 2 pumps, 300' loops and Taco valves and controller. Here is the panel design
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For the heat source, I decided NOT to reuse the Polaris that I used in Sheldon House due to 2 main concerns - short cycling and frequent ignitor replacements. Don't get me wrong, the Polaris performs great for keeping up with hot water demand - but I was looking for something a bit more advanced. At this point, I have it narrowed down to 2 options - both from HTP. See picture below for details.
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jeepxj

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Jeepxj - when I read that the NanoBeams can be used for distances up to 5km I thought the same thing!! At least I will have the comfort of knowing I have a good signal and can stream whatever media I want without worrying about signal lose caused by stretching a copper cable at it's maximum range.

5km if its snowing at 50" an hour. those things are reliable even further. its silly how just how much you get for you dollar outta that company's gear.
 
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Kubota Tee

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PREPARING THE SHOP FLOOR FOR CONCRETE - STEP 3 (PEX INSTALLATION)

Installing PEX in a concrete floor is really quite easy! It simply involves manhandling large rolls (300' in my case) of semi-flexible tubing, connecting it to the wire mesh (zip ties for me) and making sure your spacing and lengths are consistent.

For my floor layout, the design called for 12" centers and 300' lengths. I started in the mechanical room along the south wall and ran the first loop along the full length of the east wall and then started looping back and forth on the north end of the building.
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Here is a picture of the first loop completed
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Here is the jig I created to hold the 90 degree elbows that will act as sleeves where the PEX exits the concrete.
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Fast forward and all the loops are installed and some concrete forms are starting to go in
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Here are the 2 thickened sections for the future 2 post lift
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Kubota Tee

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LET'S POUR SOME CONCRETE - PART 1 (PERIMETER POUR)


As mentioned previously, the shop floor is 5" thick #4000 concrete with wire mesh as well as fiberglass added into the mix. Due to the size of the shop floor, the concrete guys decided to pour the outer perimeter first. This area is relatively flat and only 5' wide - making it a relatively easy pour.

I pressurized the PEX tubing to just over 40psi to make sure nothing got punctured during the pour.
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The area in front of the largest North facing door was left until the middle section pour.
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It will be nice to stop tracking sand up into the loft area
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They had to remove a few of the temporary stair treads in order to finish the floor.
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The concrete guys are a small family outfit just down the road from us. They have done a lot of work at our place and I'm always pleased with the outcome.
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While it would have been nice to have a concrete floor to work on during framing, I'm sort of glad we had to wait avoiding potential chips and cracks due to abuse.
View media item 99796
 

CanadianJason

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5km if its snowing at 50" an hour. those things are reliable even further. its silly how just how much you get for you dollar outta that company's gear.

Agreed! I am currently working in wireless and the cost/value on Ubiquiti stuff is superior to most other options in the industry. I recently did a 28 km link up here in Canada that would pass 100mbps happily using nothing but a couple of tripods and the Nanobeam AC's big brother, the Powerbeam AC Gen2. They've become a staple in our shop with the endless capabilities of these devices.
 
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Kubota Tee

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Agreed! I am currently working in wireless and the cost/value on Ubiquiti stuff is superior to most other options in the industry. I recently did a 28 km link up here in Canada that would pass 100mbps happily using nothing but a couple of tripods and the Nanobeam AC's big brother, the Powerbeam AC Gen2. They've become a staple in our shop with the endless capabilities of these devices.

CanadianJason - thanks for your vote of confidence on my Ubiquiti choice. My next application will be an attempt to shoot a long distance wireless signal across the lake into our recreational area. We often have parties over there and it would be great to stream music, etc without taking up cellular data. If you have any suggestions, please let me know.
 

jeepxj

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CanadianJason - thanks for your vote of confidence on my Ubiquiti choice. My next application will be an attempt to shoot a long distance wireless signal across the lake into our recreational area. We often have parties over there and it would be great to stream music, etc without taking up cellular data. If you have any suggestions, please let me know.

try what you have already to see if you can use that gear again.

this site will also let you go to exact locations and heights above the ground for a better idea: https://link.ui.com/#
 
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