Does my HD-9 Lift need adjustments?

[tom86951]

I had a new HD-9 lift 'professionally' installed and am wondering if it is adjusted correctly. The garage floor has a code-compliant slope to it, on the steeper end of the range.

The installers adjusted the lift so that the runways are level when going up and down. They did this by turning the rear adjusting nuts ALL the way down, and leaving the front nuts all the way up. See pictures.

Using a level, the runways slope down to the rear a bit when the runways are sitting on the safety locks. The installers left the safety lock channel inside the columns adjusted all the way down, except for one in the rear that is up maybe 1/4".

When the lift goes up, you can hear the locks engage one after another, as you can hear in the video. The issue is that it is hard to get the lift off all 4 locks this way. Unless I raise the lift all the way up before releasing the locks, one or more tends to hang up when the car comes down, even after raising the lift off the locks before trying to lower it.

So what do you think? My sense is that I need to adjust the rear locking channels inside the columns upward so that they engage/disengage at about the same time the fronts do, right?

 

[PR1Gneon]

The safety locks should engage very close but not necessarily at the same time.

The runways should be leveled when are resting on the safety locks.

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[pbon]

Does it work better if you depress and hold the air release before you depress the down button?

 

[tom86951]

The safety locks should engage very close but not necessarily at the same time.

The runways should be leveled when are resting on the safety locks.

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I did see that in the manual, thanks. Just not entirely sure what they consider "close" but am thinking mine aren't close enough.

Does it work better if you depress and hold the air release before you depress the down button?

I always try to lift the runways off the locks, then press the lock-release button/valve. Then hold down the button/valve as I lower the lift. However, because the locks aren't engaging/disengaging at the same time, there is only a small window where all the locks are disengaged and the next one hasn't re-engaged, as I raise the lift off the locks.

 

[slowTA]

It almost sounds more like a lock issue (as in the air powered actuator) than an adjustment issue.

When I lower my lift, I first press the air valve button and hear all the actuators take up the slack. Then I raise the runways until I hear all the locks snap open... that's when I press the release lever to lower. I do it this way since I had one lock that had to be raised significantly more than the rest and it would hang up while the other 3 allowed the runways to lower. This was before adjusting the cables as below.

On my lift you hear the locks seat in a wave of three clicks. Two of the locks snap closed at the same time, then the other two follow closely after that. I would say it can't be much more than 1/4" difference between each of the locks.

One way to get the locks working at the same time is to set the runways at a height JUST before the locks snap into the ladder bar. Then work your way around the cables tightening them until each lock engages. This assumes the ladders are set level first and that you have room at either end of the cable ends to take up some slack after all the cables stretch a bit over time.

FYI, don't drive yourself crazy getting all the locks to snap into place at the EXACTLY same time. This will change based on the car being lifted and it's position on the runways as each cable is a different length and stretches just a bit based on loading.

 

[PR1Gneon]

I did see that in the manual, thanks. Just not entirely sure what they consider "close" but am thinking mine aren't close enough.







I always try to lift the runways off the locks, then press the lock-release button/valve. Then hold down the button/valve as I lower the lift. However, because the locks aren't engaging/disengaging at the same time, there is only a small window where all the locks are disengaged and the next one hasn't re-engaged, as I raise the lift off the locks.

Then adjust the ladders, you should have all security locks engaged and runways leveled.

Your locks arent engaging close enought.

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[logical]

Then adjust the ladders, you should have all security locks engaged and runways leveled.

Your locks arent engaging close enought.

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Sounds like the ladders are as already at the extremes. The lift can only take so much slope. I would have to be there to be sure but I suspect the right combo of cable and ladder adjustments could get them all to engage much closer to simultaneous. I had lots of slope and decided to deal with it this way.

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[PR1Gneon]

Sounds like the ladders are as already at the extremes. The lift can only take so much slope. I would have to be there to be sure but I suspect the right combo of cable and ladder adjustments could get them all to engage much closer to simultaneous. I had lots of slope and decided to deal with it this way.

Sent from my garage.

Thats a huge spacer, I suggest to cut the floot and make a single piece concrete footing with the desired height.

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[tom86951]

Can I just adjust the lock channels alone, which is what it seems like it needs, or do I have to then readjust the cables once I move the locks?

I was thinking of making a shim plate or two. I was amazed to see the most popular commercial shims are plastic U-shaped things -- like plastic washers basically. Can't bring myself to use those, so debating on whether to just make a spacer plate out of plywood or to go all out and make them out of a steel or aluminum plate. I'm thinking even 1 inch would help avoid the need to adjusting everything to the extreme. I have porcelain tile, so doing a concrete footing isn't a good option for me.

 

[slowTA]

The ladder bars are all within a 1/4" of each other according to your pics of the post bottoms. This isn't right based on your statement that the floor is pitched and that the runways are also pitched!

In the second paragraph you say the installers adjusted the runways so they're level when going up and down. That's all fine and dandy, but they should stay that way when on the locks too!

Pick a post to start with and work your way around with the runways on a set of locks (any height!) to level the ladder bars. I would start with one at the high end of the floor. Then follow my directions above to get the cables adjusted.

It may sound like a semi-complicated process, but when you're done you'll be happy you did it yourself instead of scheduling the guys to come back!

Also, the adjusters pointed to in the pictures are the cables. It seems that someone here thinks they were the ladder bars.

 

[logical]

Thats a huge spacer, I suggest to cut the floot and make a single piece concrete footing with the desired height.

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It's stacks of fiberglass reinforced composite, bonded with epoxy and drilled to be kept in place by all anchor bolts. It has similar compressive strength to reinforced concrete and better tensile and flex properties. Why would I tear it out to pour a concrete pad? It would be like tearing out the carbon fiber tub in a race car to put some chicken wire in.
Sent from my garage.

 

[slowTA]

FYI, if your floors are that uneven you might be able to set the ladder bars so that 1 pair of locks is lower than the other 2! Just don't put the runways down on those 2 locks alone!
(Please don't do this, its just a joke!)

 

[logical]

You need to start with getting a long level out and adjusting the cables so that the deck is level in both directions. If it hasn't been re-leveled after a little use it could be off. Then you can get a look at the locks and see what adjustments can be made.
Mine needed some tweaking after the first time a car was on it all winter.
Sent from my garage.

 

[slowTA]

You need to start with getting a long level out and adjusting the cables so that the deck is level in both directions. If it hasn't been re-leveled after a little use it could be off. Then you can get a look at the locks and see what adjustments can be made.
Mine needed some tweaking after the first time a car was on it all winter.
Sent from my garage.

Why adjust the cables first? Isn't it more important to get the runways level when resting on the locks?

 

[logical]

Why adjust the cables first? Isn't it more important to get the runways level when resting on the locks?

either way will get you there if you are within the limits of adjustment. The locks are a safety measure, the cables are the primary support.

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[tom86951]

The cables are adjusted so the runways are level when off the locks. So if I adjust the lock channels in up in the rear, so that they all engage roughly at the same time, will I need to re-adjust the cables? I think not, but am still getting to know this thing.

 

[slowTA]

No, the locks are a safety measure, the cables are the primary support.

Sent from my garage.

My lift has a sticker that states the runways should be supported by the locks before walking under it.

 

[tom86951]

No, the locks are a safety measure, the cables are the primary support.

Sent from my garage.

When a car is stored on the lift, aren't you supposed to lower it onto the locks -- such that the all the weight is OFF the cables and all the weight is ON the locks? That's what my installer told me to do, and what the manual seems to say? So the cables are only the primary support when the lift is in motion, right?

 

[slowTA]

The cables are adjusted so the runways are level when off the locks. So if I adjust the lock channels in up in the rear, so that they all engage roughly at the same time, will I need to re-adjust the cables? I think not, but am still getting to know this thing.

In theory, this is correct. But as stated above, the weight of a car can throw off how level the cables make the runways. That's why making the locks level (and using them) is more important.

 

[tom86951]

In theory, this is correct. But as stated above, the weight of a car can throw off how level the cables make the runways. That's why making the locks level (and using them) is more important.

Yeah, the installers finished installing and testing the lift, then realized the runways weren't level as they tested it. It was late in the day and they just went and raised the rear with the cable adjustment nuts. I think they just started running out of time and forgot to adjust the locks to match the newly raised rear end. I'll give it a try after the holiday and report back. Thanks all.

 

[slowTA]

Also, read the owners manual. I downloaded it again to get this screen shot and it does a better job than anyone here telling you how to adjust the cables and locks. Of note is that they say you need 1" of thread above the cable adjusting nut.

 

[logical]

When a car is stored on the lift, aren't you supposed to lower it onto the locks -- such that the all the weight is OFF the cables and all the weight is ON the locks? That's what my installer told me to do, and what the manual seems to say? So the cables are only the primary support when the lift is in motion, right?

OK, my point was when its moving the cables are carrying the weight and are what determines how level it will be. Yes, it should be lowered to rest on the locks when you are using it.

But to avoid a bunch of unnecessary twisting, binding and uneven forces: the posts should be dead plumb vertical, the runways should be dead level in both directions and the ladders should be timed/adjusted to engage the locks nearly simultaneously. There are a dozen ways to get there. Adjusting the cables to the extremes in the OP is not one of the ways. My guess is 2 posts should have been shimmed from the outset so it could be set up within its limits of adjustments. The ladders should not be touching down on the baseplates and you should see more exposed threads on two of the cable adjusters.

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[tom86951]

Ok, I went to adjust the lock channels and hit a snag. What tool is needed to loosen the jam nut inside the column so I can raise the lock ladder? They seem to be 15/16" nuts, but a regular open-end wrench won't work because the cable is directly in front of it and leaves no room to rotate the wrench/nut. I don't have a 15/16" crows foot handy, but suspect that's the tool of choice?

 

[logical]

Break the upper/top nut loose and the bottom/underside nut should spin free with your fingers.

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[tom86951]

Break the upper/top nut loose and the bottom/underside nut should spin free with your fingers.

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You'd think, but because the lock ladders are resting on the ground, the jam nuts remain tight even with the top nut loose. I ordered a crows foot, but might get creative tomorrow with a cheap wrench and a welder... Appreciate all the input!

 

[tom86951]

Just to close the loop, a 15/16" crows foot was able to get the jam nuts loose for the lock ladders. It's still a pain, but doable. The installers used an impact gun on the nylocks above, which pulled the jam nuts so tight that they remained tight even after the top nuts were loose. As soon as the crows foot broke the tension, they spun by hand.

I ended up pulling the rear ladders upward maybe 2" each, to match the cable tension adjustments and now the locks are all engaging at nearly the same time, and the car sits level on the locks. The manual says they should engage "close" to the same time, which is an oddly vague specification, and mine are "close" by just about any definition, so I'm calling it a day. More importantly, the corners are way less likely to get hung up on a locks now when lowering the lift, since 99% of the time the locks have all clicked to the next level (or all haven't) as the lift goes up -- so very unlikely I'll stop in between lock levels like before. The way it was before, as the installers left it, I had to listen and try to stop the lift at "just" the right time to make sure all corners would rest on the same lock (and not hang up, etc.).

Onward and upward.

 

[PR1Gneon]

Just to close the loop, a 15/16" crows foot was able to get the jam nuts loose for the lock ladders. It's still a pain, but doable. The installers used an impact gun on the nylocks above, which pulled the jam nuts so tight that they remained tight even after the top nuts were loose. As soon as the crows foot broke the tension, they spun by hand.

I ended up pulling the rear ladders upward maybe 2" each, to match the cable tension adjustments and now the locks are all engaging at nearly the same time, and the car sits level on the locks. The manual says they should engage "close" to the same time, which is an oddly vague specification, and mine are "close" by just about any definition, so I'm calling it a day. More importantly, the corners are way less likely to get hung up on a locks now when lowering the lift, since 99% of the time the locks have all clicked to the next level (or all haven't) as the lift goes up -- so very unlikely I'll stop in between lock levels like before. The way it was before, as the installers left it, I had to listen and try to stop the lift at "just" the right time to make sure all corners would rest on the same lock (and not hang up, etc.).

Onward and upward.

[emoji106][emoji106][emoji106]

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[tom86951]

Here's a video of the before and after -- pretty pronounced I'd say. And I discovered that the installers didn't get the spacers behind the lock ladder correctly. It's supposed to sit on the bolt that holds the ladder at the bottom, but some of mine were just wedged behind the ladder and not on the bolt, which had a tendency to twist the ladder since not on-center. Sheesh...

 

[slowTA]

Once you put a car on the lift the locks will be a bit more out of synch, but don't worry about it you're much better off now.

Also, my lift is from 2009 and doesn't have the ladder support bolts at the bottom. They just hang from the top stud.