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Smitty

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Sep 4, 2018
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Rusty, I ended up winning that 212. I cleaned the rust off and was able to save most of the original black lacquer. You don’t see this model with the arched lettering ver often.1b6272d9b2ffdd712362915c04ffe7e7.jpgc09df6ee34b6c3f191aafd3a250ac6a1.jpg154adf525959c1b8bf83a33cfac27d38.jpg


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Smitty

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Thanks Loydski, it seems like we’re both gravitating toward the smaller vises. They are kind of fun to collect.
 

Fierljeppen

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Jan 26, 2018
Messages
1,159
Numbers 0-2 for quick release and 3-5 for non quick acting. So the numbers go up to at least 5. There might also be a no 6 with a ratchet handle but could be mistaken.

Smitty...I'm definitely deferring to rusty65 on this one. Athol catalog information is very scarce for the early 1900's.

We need a lurker to step out of the shadows and help us with this one.

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rusty65

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Pekin,IL
Smitty...I'm definitely deferring to rusty65 on this one. Athol catalog information is very scarce for the early 1900's.



We need a lurker to step out of the shadows and help us with this one.



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My information comes from Alexander vitorsky This is a picture of his collection.
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wrenchguy

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Sep 22, 2011
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I don't get to contribute much, FYI from my ATHOL (not dated) NO.31 Catalog.






There's not a description page for the standard vise, as the Simpson has.




Maybe someone can give a date range on this catalog.
 
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Dlavallee22

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Sep 13, 2019
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East Bridgewater, MA
Loydski29 here are some pics of my No. 1
 

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wrenchguy

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NW Indiana
The Athol model #'s are confusing.
Ive got a #1 that is non quick release.

It seems so.... There's a No.22 on the board now thats not listed in this catalog.
Maybe the 22 is somewhat older than the booklet and not in production anymore??? Only a guess, some how a older catalogs would have 2b brought in the discussion.
Sequential pages of the Simpson and Standard sections of the booklet.






 

DaveInHouston

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Jan 5, 2020
Messages
158
Location
Baytown, Texas
Scrounged this Reed #104 the other day. It was a rusty greasy mess but cleaned up pretty good. If the stamped numbers are date stamps this one is a 1978 model.9C855628-EFF4-406C-A827-F0F1B34F7E76.jpg
 

Shiftless

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Mar 9, 2014
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Dave:
That’s an interesting model. It has the late “REED” insignia like the CA models have (made by Columbian) but the snub nose and the “oil” hole and no doubt the split ring feature of the “R” models. (Personally, I like the raised lettering better)

Here is a 104r (picture credit...bagged89s10)
 

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DaveInHouston

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Shiftless,
It does have the split ring. I think it May be a 104-S. The S is very lightly stamped into the raised block after the “104”. It also has the numbers 378 stamped into the body below the “oil” hole. I’m not a collector but I do like old vises and have a couple of others. I use them. They’re better than the new ones. I’m going to fabricate a new base swivel lock handle for this one and probably mount it on my welding table.
Thanks,
Dave
 

Eric827

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Joined
Sep 19, 2019
Messages
46
Location
Avon Lake, Ohio
Reed Brothers

On the topic of the Reed vises, over the holiday break, I completed restorations of 2 small/medium Reeds of the older style with the round front ball. Based on the production stamps, the 103 with the serrated jaws and ACCO nameplate is 1941 and the 104 with smooth jaws is 1937 vintage. Color for both is Rustoleum Metallic Vintage Copper. These were the first Reeds I've worked with and I was impressed with the fit and the robust fabrication. Both were in really nice mechanical shape after the old paint was removed.
 

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Smitty

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I finally found it, Starrett vise no 926C. The vise has 6” jaws and weighs in at 205 lbs.
I didn’t haggle btw.
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XCMTB83

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Mar 22, 2015
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108
Location
Iowa
Well the 143B received some more attention since my last post on page 3842.

Shiftless: Thanks, :beer:.

KMScott: Thanks, A larger Bridgeport and a 12" rotary table would have made things easier but where is the fun in that!

Productbob: Thank you.

Old Radar: ha-ha No need for tool envy, the equipment is owned by my employer.

The first item off the to-do list were the nuts for the swivel base retrofit. After the nuts were deburred and tapped I moved on to the swivel base retainer ring.

The ring will ensure the swivel base stays attached to the main body even if the clamp bolts are removed. Since the ¾-10 tapped hole isn’t quite centered in the base I had to open the ID up to 7/8” for clearance. I also had to face off the end of the hex end of the ¾-10 bolt so it sits lower than the swivel base.

For the main nut retainer pin I did something a little different. I drilled and tapped a 3/8-16 hole for a ball-end set screw. This will allow me to disassemble and reassemble much easier.

The last thing I addressed was the horrible mismatched hole after I drilled the two properly spaced holes in the base. The previous owner really messed up these hole locations, one more than the other. Even though the washers I plan to use will cover the mismatch I didn’t want the clamp bolt to fit so sloppy. I thought it might cause some binding issues when rotating the vise about the swivel base. I determined that J-B Weld does not stick to HDPE so I put a 5/8” diameter piece of HDPE in the bolt hole before filling up the void with J-B Weld. I also thinned the J-B Weld with acetone so it would flow into the hole better. The SHCS in the HDPE is just so I can just easily twist it loose once the J-B Weld is cured.

Next up is getting the backlash addressed on the spindle.
 

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XCMTB83

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Iowa
More pictures...
 

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ganymede

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Nov 29, 2012
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New England
It seems so.... There's a No.22 on the board now thats not listed in this catalog.
Maybe the 22 is somewhat older than the booklet and not in production anymore??? Only a guess, some how a older catalogs would have 2b brought in the discussion.
Sequential pages of the Simpson and Standard sections of the booklet.
...

Thanks for the look at the old catalog.:thumbup:
 

chrisnazzy

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Apr 20, 2013
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Location
Arizona
Smitty, let me be the first to officially say it. You **** and not just a little bit, you **** with the best of them! Congrats sir!

I saw that one today too. I thought it was a 925 at best. I know these are top notch quality but I've never been a fan of the shape or looks of them but a 926 for $75..... well I would have had a lot of time to stare it and come around. I guess it would have grown on me like the new Chevy's!

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Smitty

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Loydski, XCM and outlaw. Thanks for the kind works and jokes. I just got off of the road from picking up the vise.

Chris. Thanks, I never get tired of hearing that. I saw the ad come up last night and the vise looked small to me as well. I asked the seller what model number the vise was and they didn’t reply. This morning I awoke to a pic with a 926 on the side so I made my move.
 

Shiftless

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Loydski, XCM and outlaw. Thanks for the kind works and jokes. I just got off of the road from picking up the vise.

Chris. Thanks, I never get tired of hearing that. I saw the ad come up last night and the vise looked small to me as well. I asked the seller what model number the vise was and they didn’t reply. This morning I awoke to a pic with a 926 on the side so I made my move.

If it was me, I would buy ANY size Starrett for $75 and be grinning all the way home.
 

Vise

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Apr 16, 2019
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NE
Fantastic score Smitty. Very jealous of that one. With swivel base to boot! Congrats!
 

Old Radar

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Apr 17, 2019
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San Antonio, TX

Jayhawk_Aviator

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Jun 2, 2015
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I have a Wilton 1760 bullet vise that I am restoring. After disassembly, I sandblasted all the parts to clean it up in prep for paint using the Garnet 80 grit. It seems like it's pretty fine media and I want to make sure I get it fully clean before painting / reassembly.

What are you guys all using to clean thoroughly in the nooks and crannies after blasting?
 

Smitty

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Sep 4, 2018
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Location
USA
Thanks Vise. The swivel base is massive on this thing. Overall the vise is in pretty good condition. It has a few spatter BB’s, some rust and a tweak in the handle. It’s going to clean up really well.f20025b143d971cbbe526c7fa2b86715.jpgd09e7b0749407405fcd6516284989829.jpg


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