gicts
Active member
I'm pleased with my Speedglas. They can be had for ~ $100 used on ebay if you're patient.
Is it normal for an autodarkening hood to take a couple of seconds to go clear when th e arc stops.?
Number 1 thing I am guilty of is not changing lenses. They all work good clean.
I've had a re-branded Lincolon 140 that I got from Home depot about 12 years ago. Up until now I used flux and recently got a gas system. I don't weld a lot but with me wanting to build cars again (I don't do chassis) I wanted to get a auto darkening helmet. The local welding store was trying to get me to buy one of their top of the line 3m Speedglass helmets ($250). I was looking at one of the lower Miller units though. The model one step up from the Miller's Classic. The Speedglass was very nice and very very clear lens. Is there any middle ground from $79.00 to a $250.00 helmet?
The lincoln viking helmets are very nice. The YESWELDERs on Amazon look nice and seem to be getting a lot of positive reviews, however I dont have experience with them.I recently got a Lincoln Electric Viking 3350 that I really like. Great helmet for the money in my opinion.
I recently got a Lincoln Electric Viking 3350 that I really like. Great helmet for the money in my opinion.
I've got a $35 Jackson non auto darkening helmet and wouldn't trade it for a $350 auto darkening one unless the below issues were resolved.
1) It can NEVER flash me
2) When it's not dark, it needs to be much brighter than a #3 or #4 lens
Auto darkening is nice, but when it's not clear enough when not dark to do anything useful (like grind or re position yourself), they're not of any value. Take welding under a car for example, even on a hoist, you can't see anything on the underside of the car when they're "bright", so you're constantly flipping them up to get positioned which completely negates the benefit of an auto darkening helmet.
On a bench with lots of overhead lighting they work fine, but out of position work - no thanks. I'll nod my head and use my $35 Jackson.
