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Electric water heater

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v1ru5879

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Feb 19, 2018
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Well there is no drain where it is located. The other water heater in the home is also plumbed for the PT to drain outside the home so I would think in the event it were to activate the valve that water would need to go somewhere so the area surrounding does not flood
 
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sberry

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As long as the connections are secure the water doesn't know any different. Doesn't know the pipe is crooked or is a hose not a pipe. A guy could bend it around some, decorate it somehow, cover it in a closet, ain't gonna work any different. Won't last any longer. Fix the tp drain, fix the cover, dress up the insulation makes it look loose, route the wire neater if you want, nothing to see here, working, not leaking. Got hot water.
 
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v1ru5879

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Feb 19, 2018
Messages
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As long as the connections are secure the water doesn't know any different. Doesn't know the pipe is crooked or is a hose not a pipe. A guy could bend it around some, decorate it somehow, cover it in a closet, ain't gonna work any different. Won't last any longer. Fix the tp drain, fix the cover, dress up the insulation makes it look loose, route the wire neater if you want, nothing to see here, working, not leaking. Got hot water.
I agree with you 100% unfortunately it's more of a code issue rather than function issue

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Innovate1

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Illinois near St. Louis, Missouri
What's the issue with connecting PEX directly to the heater? How far and what material do I do the initial run with (if PEX isn't allowed)? Copper directly into the tank causes dissimilar metal corrosion so I should do dielectric union so I can put galvanized pipe, dielectric union, and then brass PEX fitting?
 
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v1ru5879

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Feb 19, 2018
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From what I am told it has to be solid copper for both inlet n outlet and pex is not allowed. I can see why the loop in the release valve is not ok. Also have heard mixed things about the expansion tank, some say a must n some say no since it's well water with a low PSI

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