The VISES of Garage Journal

[Smitty]

@Smitty how did you make the flat end on the round ball? Very nice work, I can see this job in my future as I have a few Vises that are in need .


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I held it as steady as I could on a belt sander and quenched when my fingers got hot.

 

[harley jim]

I have so many vises with problem handles that I decided to try and fab one up with limited tooling. I purchased some 3/4” steel rod and balls to get started. I saw how KMS made his handles and decided to try that method. After drilling the end caps I used the chop saw to make the initial cut while spinning the bar. I then spun the bar while using an angle grinder to remove the excess material.


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Smitty
Where did you buy the balls for your handles or what are they for. I need to do the same thing to one of mine. Thanks

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[Smitty]

Harley Jim, I got them at a local Industrial Metal Supply store near me. They weren’t very expensive which leads me to believe they aren’t a high grade steel. I was just getting my feet wet on this project to see if I could do it. I’m going to look into higher grades of steel as I move forward.
I’m a bit familiar with tool steel grades but I wonder if anybody would know what grade a typical Wilton handle would be made of?

 

[harley jim]

Thanks Smitty
That is a great fix

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[Dru]

I **** at painting

 

[Outlawmws]

Keys to good/better painting:

Read and FOLLOW the directions for use!

Generally:

Shake the can for 2 min after the ball starts rattling - It HAS to be mixed thoroughly or the thick stuff at the bottom with plug the feed tube.

THIN layers and build it up for most paints. (The big exception is Hammer tone where it needs to be thick to the point of running bit not running... Spraying on hot days on warm metal helps as does keeping the surface horizontal so gravity isn't so bad...) Too thick a layer is an invitation to runs.

Distance to object: The paint can will say, but commonly 8-15 inches generally? so don't spry in a breeze or it mostly flys away... Most people spray too close and creep up even when they start the right distance... too close causes runs.

Time between coats: again the can will say, err on the side of caution (especially if going past the 30 min to 2 hours between coats usually suggested: Rustolium is BAD for crinkling up if you wait a day and paint again make sure its WELL CURED (I've had it crinkle with the same paint; Clear coat is VERY bad for this AND I was following the dang directions to the tee... - ONE day is not enough. I believe its the new formulas to meet the Low emissions forced by the CARB.

My 2c

 

[Dru]

Keys to good/better painting:

Read and FOLLOW the directions for use!

Generally:

Shake the can for 2 min after the ball starts rattling - It HAS to be mixed thoroughly or the thick stuff at the bottom with plug the feed tube.

THIN layers and build it up for most paints. (The big exception is Hammer tone where it needs to be thick to the point of running bit not running... Spraying on hot days on warm metal helps as does keeping the surface horizontal so gravity isn't so bad...) Too thick a layer is an invitation to runs.

Distance to object: The paint can will say, but commonly 8-15 inches generally? so don't spry in a breeze or it mostly flys away... Most people spray too close and creep up even when they start the right distance... too close causes runs.

Time between coats: again the can will say, err on the side of caution (especially if going past the 30 min to 2 hours between coats usually suggested: Rustolium is BAD for crinkling up if you wait a day and paint again make sure its WELL CURED (I've had it crinkle with the same paint; Clear coat is VERY bad for this AND I was following the dang directions to the tee... - ONE day is not enough. I believe its the new formulas to meet the Low emissions forced by the CARB.

My 2c

Thanks for the detailed instructions, I meant i generaly **** at painting

The vise is painted in hammered effect paint that actually turned ok as it hiddes imperfections and brush strokes, the photo does not show it in detail so it may look like its badly applied .

 

[kenc184]

Harley Jim, I got them at a local Industrial Metal Supply store near me. They weren’t very expensive which leads me to believe they aren’t a high grade steel. I was just getting my feet wet on this project to see if I could do it. I’m going to look into higher grades of steel as I move forward.
I’m a bit familiar with tool steel grades but I wonder if anybody would know what grade a typical Wilton handle would be made of?

Dunno Smitty, but drill rod is pretty hard (in it's unhardened as delivered state) and is pretty cheap. That's what I use.

And of course, you could harden it, if you had one ball be threaded on?

 

[kenc184]

Keys to good/better painting:

Read and FOLLOW the directions for use!

Generally:

Shake the can for 2 min after the ball starts rattling - It HAS to be mixed thoroughly or the thick stuff at the bottom with plug the feed tube.

THIN layers and build it up for most paints. (The big exception is Hammer tone where it needs to be thick to the point of running bit not running... Spraying on hot days on warm metal helps as does keeping the surface horizontal so gravity isn't so bad...) Too thick a layer is an invitation to runs.

Distance to object: The paint can will say, but commonly 8-15 inches generally? so don't spry in a breeze or it mostly flys away... Most people spray too close and creep up even when they start the right distance... too close causes runs.

Time between coats: again the can will say, err on the side of caution (especially if going past the 30 min to 2 hours between coats usually suggested: Rustolium is BAD for crinkling up if you wait a day and paint again make sure its WELL CURED (I've had it crinkle with the same paint; Clear coat is VERY bad for this AND I was following the dang directions to the tee... - ONE day is not enough. I believe its the new formulas to meet the Low emissions forced by the CARB.

My 2c

I don't like rattle cans for vises, too little durability. Spray on rustoleum through a 1.8 tip or thinned slightly with acetone through a 1.5/1.6. I have a junk gun for rustoleum, it's a china made Iwata knockoff in 1.5. Or you can brush it on, it flows out so well.

My less than 2c worth!

 

[va.grouseman]

Kenc, good advise for just a penny.---But for one that's just for looking at, not a using vise, rattle can is probably enough.

 

[KMScott]

Dunno Smitty, but drill rod is pretty hard (in it's unhardened as delivered state) and is pretty cheap. That's what I use.

And of course, you could harden it, if you had one ball be threaded on?

I like 1144 Cold Formed CRS, it's grain runs along the shaft making it a great material for handles. Cheap and easy to find. I buy mine at McMaster Carr.

https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/126/3927

I Like to use Ultra-Strength Easy-to-Machine 1144 Carbon Steel Rods. Don't waste your money on O1 rod. 4140 is also a good steel material but more pricey. Just my opinion.

 

[harley jim]

Dunno Smitty, but drill rod is pretty hard (in it's unhardened as delivered state) and is pretty cheap. That's what I use.



And of course, you could harden it, if you had one ball be threaded on?

I have a collection of old jack handles/ lug wrenches some are 49,50 ford most are 70s mixture, do you think they would work

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[Smitty]

This Yost 34C was my main motivation to make a handle. The stock handle was a short stubby crimped mess. I couldn’t wait to cut it off. I’m going to strip this vise and give it a blackened natural finish. I’m also going to beef up the swivel locks because the original ones are low quality. I might try and ream out the hole in the spindle to 7/8”+ a get some larger diameter rod for a beefier look. I’lll give the 1144 a try that KMS mentioned above. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.


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[Rileysan]

Last week I posted a couple pictures of my Craftsman No. 5222 "Combination" double swivel vise. What I didn't know was that this model was listed in the catalogs for (1) year only - 1934 - before being replaced with the No. 5241 in 1935.

I have no idea what, if any, differences there are between the two models. The only thing I found different in the specs was the shipping weight, which differed by 1 lb.

I'm curious if anyone has had the two models side-by-side. Also am curious if anyone has identified the manufacturer.

I've included catalog snippets from 1934 as well as 1939

Edit: The 1934 catalog states it had a "Red lacquer finish". I'm looking for suggestions on the correct paint scheme.

Brian

 

[Smitty]

Did you get it to swivel?

 

[Rileysan]

Did you get it to swivel?

The swivel functions perfectly. The only mechanical issue is with the main screw nut - which is stripped - but I knew that before I purchased it. I will have to have a replacement machined for it.

 

[KMScott]

Last week I posted a couple pictures of my Craftsman No. 5222 "Combination" double swivel vise. What I didn't know was that this model was listed in the catalogs for (1) year only - 1934 - before being replaced with the No. 5241 in 1935.

I have no idea what, if any, differences there are between the two models. The only thing I found different in the specs was the shipping weight, which differed by 1 lb.

I'm curious if anyone has had the two models side-by-side. Also am curious if anyone has identified the manufacturer.

I've included catalog snippets from 1934 as well as 1939

Brian

I bet Zoomie has the two to compare. He has at least 4 of those Craftsman Combo's.

 

[Outlawmws]

Riley, it may be simpler to have the hole filled (brass/bronze?) and then drilled and tapped.

 

[Dlavallee22]

Someone should try to jump on this! I simply have no room but looks like this may be a Parker 955 on a nice 6ft metal work bench! It’s in MA

 

[Shiftless]

Someone should try to jump on this! I simply have no room but looks like this may be a Parker 955 on a nice 6ft metal work bench! It’s in MA

Indeed!

It’s only 3,000 miles from my house. If I left now, and averaged 80 mph, with 12 fuel stops of 5 min each, I could make it in 38 1/2 hours.

 

[Rileysan]

Riley, it may be simpler to have the hole filled (brass/bronze?) and then drilled and tapped.

Normally, I would agree with you but the nut in this vise is very different than any other I've ever seen. It is almost certainly machined, not cast. It was likely made from square stock, turned down to shape, then drilled & tapped.

The flat side is mounted by a pin through the rotating assembly and into the flat of the nut (mine is loose enough it would fall out if there was enoguh room). It's not a good design, to be sure, but should be easy enough to duplicate.

Brian

 

[va.grouseman]

Shift, by the time it took you to make that post you could have been a mile and a half closer to that good deal.---Let's get cracking.

 

[PghJKB]

Last week I posted a couple pictures of my Craftsman No. 5222 "Combination" double swivel vise. What I didn't know was that this model was listed in the catalogs for (1) year only - 1934 - before being replaced with the No. 5241 in 1935.

I have no idea what, if any, differences there are between the two models. The only thing I found different in the specs was the shipping weight, which differed by 1 lb.

I'm curious if anyone has had the two models side-by-side. Also am curious if anyone has identified the manufacturer.

I've included catalog snippets from 1934 as well as 1939

Edit: The 1934 catalog states it had a "Red lacquer finish". I'm looking for suggestions on the correct paint scheme.

Brian

The Pipe Jaw side of the front jaw has the "cylinder/rod/pipe" jaw patented by EW Fulton in 1932. Patent #1890114, granted 6 Dec 1932.

Can anyone put one of these beside a Fulton of the same period?

Patent can be found here:
https://pdfpiw.uspto.gov/.piw?PageN...1=1890114.PN.%26OS=pn/1890114%26RS=PN/1890114

JKB

 

[LuckeyLoser]

I just purchased a Wilton wilt-o-matic 4" on a pedestal base with a foot pedal and a hydraulic pump.

 

[Rileysan]

I just purchased a Wilton wilt-o-matic 4" on a pedestal base with a foot pedal and a hydraulic pump.

Welcome to GJ! Now stop teasing us and post photos!! I know those aren't very common so you are likely to get lots of attention on your first post

 

[Rileysan]

The Pipe Jaw side of the front jaw has the "cylinder/rod/pipe" jaw patented by EW Fulton in 1932. Patent #1890114, granted 6 Dec 1932.

Can anyone put one of these beside a Fulton of the same period?

Patent can be found here:
https://pdfpiw.uspto.gov/.piw?PageN...1=1890114.PN.%26OS=pn/1890114%26RS=PN/1890114

JKB

That's similar, but not the same as a Craftsman 52xx double swivel. For one thing, the Craftsman has a hexagon shaped shaft that passes through a rotating assembly. Additionally, the Craftsman uses tapered blocks on either side of the rotating assembly that locks the rotating assembly in position but still allows the dynamic jaw to be adjusted in/out.

Brian

 

[Fierljeppen]

PghJKB...Interesting timing of the Craftsman and Fulton double-swivel. It's a current vise puzzle for me, with very little clues. I don't think the Craftsman was made in Oswego NY.

As per your request, I've attached a graphical guide on how to insert an image into the body of the post. If it doesn't make sense, just PM me.

 

[Rileysan]

Because my attention span is short, I've already moved on to something else, today.

I bought this Craftsman 5196 off CL a couple months ago for $100. The overall condition has turned out better than hoped and it's cleaning up very nicely. One minor mystery is the model number on the nose. This one is stamped "5191" which is the 4" stationary version, meaning the 5196 uses the same dynamic jaw and main screw. Either someone swapped parts or this one escaped from the factory with the incorrect stamping.

I also have a question: Did these ever come in red? I was always under the impression they only came in gray but after cleaning this one, I find that red paint appears to be the original color. Unless, of course, it has been previously stripped and repainted.

Thoughts? I still haven't decided on a final color.

Brian

 

[Rileysan]

More pix

 

[Outlawmws]

Both of mine are grey, a 5191, and a 5195

No colors mentioned in the catalogs I have.

 

[Vise]

I like that double swivel Craftsman. Very uncommon vise! Also sounds like a manufacturer mystery, which I always enjoy.

Today I lined up my Starretts on the bench: 6”, 5”, 4.5”, 4” and 3”. Here’s some pics.

 

[AngryBeaver]

This Yost 34C was my main motivation to make a handle. The stock handle was a short stubby crimped mess. I couldn’t wait to cut it off. I’m going to strip this vise and give it a blackened natural finish. I’m also going to beef up the swivel locks because the original ones are low quality. I might try and ream out the hole in the spindle to 7/8”+ a get some larger diameter rod for a beefier look. I’lll give the 1144 a try that KMS mentioned above. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.


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I find it really ironic the batch of these I bought at government surplus auction is the same color, but your slide is painted...out of the six I bought... I kept the one. Same wimpy crimped handles...Nice vises that don't get hardly any love around here

 

[va.grouseman]

Vise, the legs on that table are shaking like a rubber goose, and you are going to need a whole box of Doan's.---That is some fine iron you have there.---The word Starrett is a synonym for top tier quality.---Respect.

 

[Rileysan]

I like that double swivel Craftsman. Very uncommon vise! Also sounds like a manufacturer mystery, which I always enjoy.

Today I lined up my Starretts on the bench: 6”, 5”, 4.5”, 4” and 3”. Here’s some pics.

The 4-1/2" swivel jaw doesn't match the rest. Looks like you'll need to find the correct one. After that, you'll need to find matching 3", 4", 5", & 6" swivel jaw vises. You have your work cut out for you!!

 

[Rileysan]

Because my attention span is short, I've already moved on to something else, today.

I bought this Craftsman 5196 off CL a couple months ago for $100. The overall condition has turned out better than hoped and it's cleaning up very nicely. One minor mystery is the model number on the nose. This one is stamped "5191" which is the 4" stationary version, meaning the 5196 uses the same dynamic jaw and main screw. Either someone swapped parts or this one escaped from the factory with the incorrect stamping.

I also have a question: Did these ever come in red? I was always under the impression they only came in gray but after cleaning this one, I find that red paint appears to be the original color. Unless, of course, it has been previously stripped and repainted.

Thoughts? I still haven't decided on a final color.

Brian

I highlighted two things from my previous post.

1) Regarding color. Now that the static jaw has been cleaned up, I can see remnants of the original gray paint. The red was definitely added later.

2) My optimism about condition was premature. There's a nice crack on the top "anvil" portion that will need some attention. I'll take it in to work with me tomorrow for some TLC.

Brian

 

[AngryBeaver]

I highlighted two things from my previous post.

1) Regarding color. Now that the static jaw has been cleaned up, I can see remnants of the original gray paint. The red was definitely added later.

2) My optimism about condition was premature. There's a nice crack on the top "anvil" portion that will need some attention. I'll take it in to work with me tomorrow for some TLC.

Brian

that's a very common area where they crack. also check the jaw support ledge closely. these vises crack if you look at them wrong

 

[Vise]

Vise, the legs on that table are shaking like a rubber goose, and you are going to need a whole box of Doan's.---That is some fine iron you have there.---The word Starrett is a synonym for top tier quality.---Respect.

Thank you VA. I’m a big fan of the Starretts.

The 4-1/2" swivel jaw doesn't match the rest. Looks like you'll need to find the correct one. After that, you'll need to find matching 3", 4", 5", & 6" swivel jaw vises. You have your work cut out for you!!

Well observed. Yeah, I think I need the 924 1/2 and 923 1/2 to complete the 900 series set. The swivel jaw set, probably won’t be completed

 

[BFBOB]

FINALLY I have one I think is worthy: A 4 1/2" Columbian wihth swiveling jaw!

Dangit, can't post pix -[ try again

 

[BFBOB]

FINALLY I have one I think is worthy: A 4 1/2" Columbian wihth swiveling jaw!

Good - exc condition looks like original paint.

 

[va.grouseman]

Angry, I'm right fond of the 34Cs.---At 65000 psi., I think that this community loves them more than you think.---JMO of course.---For some, they're just to big, and for some, they are right pricey.---But you know me, they don't get too big, and a 34C is going to be my outside right arm, that I'm going to mount on a huge section of I-beam.---For a combo, they're a beast.