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50' X 80' Pole Barn with 12' Lean-to

njstang87

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Mar 13, 2015
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50' X 80' Pole Barn with 16' Lean-to

The time has come for me to get started on my dream shop. As the title states, it will be 50' X 80' with a 16' lean-to on one of the 80' walls. It will have two 12' X 14' insulated doors with openers centered on the gable ends. There will be four 2' X 3' insulated windows on the other 80' side for some light. 1' overhangs. The concrete floor will be 5" thick. The walk door will be located on the gable end.

If anyone has any suggestions on the layout I'd be open to them. I want to install a two-post lift after the floor is poured so if anyone has any comments on that I'm all ears.

I'll try to attach a few pictures of the proposed barn.
 

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sberry

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With the lean to the door in the side is fine. Without it needs to go in the end. Ideally would stretch this to 60 ft and put both big doors in the gable and the hoist back against the wall of one of the bays. If a guy absolutely had to get out would put a modest door at the end of it but rather not,,, the space in front of the hoist and along one wall to it is near priceless. In I was going to build office it would be in front and along wall with bathroom and walk door in front gable entering just outside office.
Similar to this.
 

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sberry

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You can do this in a narrow building but 60 makes it way more ergonomic.

I have a rear door I use some, might not put it in a smaller building and depending on what I wanted to do in the lean 2 would be choosy about a side roll up, could make work under it easy.
I drive across the building to the hoist could be same in a 60 and on the other side could temp booth the place easy. You didn't list location which is a factor as is how many wet cars you gouing to deal withj.
 

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sberry

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I will draw over your sketch a little later but might put the walk door well under, 20 ft or so depending on where any office was, in this case if it wasn't real public could be to the left corner too, depends on where the foot traffic is coming from, would leave a bit more room in the front gable.
 
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njstang87

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I will draw over your sketch a little later but might put the walk door well under, 20 ft or so depending on where any office was, in this case if it wasn't real public could be to the left corner too, depends on where the foot traffic is coming from, would leave a bit more room in the front gable.

I appreciate you ideas. I'll watch for the mark-up.
 

swampman

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Apr 27, 2015
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Raymond, MS
What will the lean-to be used for? If for storage, I would go deeper. Mine is 16' with +/-1' overhang, and is not deep enough. I suggest at least 20' for storage.
cdn
 

finn

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The UP, God's country
My basic shop building is 32x75, stick built with 16’ ceilings, and a 16x60 lean to along the side and a 12’x12’ door on the gable end.

From memory, the outside wall is 12’.

I wouldn’t go any less than 16’ wide, especially if you are installing a lift.

I use my lean to primarily for storage, but am contemplating a four post lift for the room.
 

longez

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Nov 29, 2014
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NW Montana
Mine is 40 x 60, 16' ceilings and 12'6" clear width on the lean-to. The North gable door is offset "some" to permit the Rotary SPOA10 to fit in the corner on an angle. 3' x 5' windows up high on the West 60' wall for light. 3/12 lean to; 5/12 shop

tzTuTL9.jpg


mkaSkW2.jpg


N4uf44b.jpg


lNNVUdj.jpg


7mULFNG.jpg
 
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njstang87

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The lean-to will be a 3/12 pitch. I went 12' because anything wider would be too low from what I've seen. I will be parking a RV and a few tractors under the lean-to.
 
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njstang87

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Mine is 40 x 60, 16' ceilings and 12'6" clear on the lean-to. The North gable door is offset "some" to permit the Rotary SPOA10 to fit in the corner on an angle. 3' x 5' windows up high on the West 60' wall for light.

tzTuTL9.jpg

mkaSkW2.jpg


7mULFNG.jpg


N4uf44b.jpg


lNNVUdj.jpg

I'm putting my windows up high for light and security.
 

dcg9381

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Austin, TX
I prefer the look of the shed roof that isn't attached to the main roof. If you connect it to the main, you're stuck with the pitch of the main roof. A shed roof can be re-pitched, if you want..

Man door should go under the shed roof for sure..
 
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njstang87

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We started prepping the site by pulling the old fence and posts that were around the garden.

We broke ground on 2-19-20 and started stripping the topsoil. The plan is to use fill from my property the get the barn pad on grade. I'll be renting a vibratory roller to compact the pad in lifts.
 

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njstang87

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Mine is 40 x 60, 16' ceilings and 12'6" clear width on the lean-to. The North gable door is offset "some" to permit the Rotary SPOA10 to fit in the corner on an angle. 3' x 5' windows up high on the West 60' wall for light. 3/12 lean to; 5/12 shop

tzTuTL9.jpg


mkaSkW2.jpg


N4uf44b.jpg


lNNVUdj.jpg


7mULFNG.jpg

Any pictures of how you have the lift installed? I'm assuming it is perpendicular to your west wall with the windows? I'm thinking about offsetting my overhead door to do something similar.
 
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njstang87

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We finished up the pad last night. I didn't keep track of all the dirt we hauled but I believe it is north of 600 cubic yards. The nearly 50-year-old backhoe my Dad was operating did the job slowly but surely.
 

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njstang87

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Pictures Continued
 

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sberry

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All of those above are beautiful. I might have moved a door on one end and depending on which direction I wanted to go in putting drain in the bay along the wall in a wet messy climate. I have a drain for parking. Clean the snot outside with hot washer pull in to dry if possible for it goes on the hoist and may ever so slight put a bowl for residual drainage in areas the had the potential to drain wet cars.
I like the twisted hoist in this , prolly. Rather than for and aft kind of like the 2 front door scheme. Lift straight in back and drain along the length of the other bay. Even in good size buildings every extra foot of width is high equity space.
 
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njstang87

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Since the site has been completed I have been considering moving both overhead doors to the south end and flipping the lean-to to the east the keep it out of the wind. If I have the two 12' X 14' doors on the same end does anyone have any advice on spacing our layout?

The updated floor plan is attached
 

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MAD MARK

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Pittsburgh Pa
I would put a man door on the North end somewhere just in case of emergency (fire etc.) and the south east door is blocked/inaccessible.

Also, lets just say you had to get a tool working outside the northwest end, your walk would be at least be 260' as opposed to opening a door and walking right in.
 
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