Outlet boxes and drywall

[mattlikesbikes]

They should start framing our barndo this week!!! Starting to plan out electric and I had a couple thoughts. Since we are puting the garage apartment into the corner of the barndo, 2 of the walls will be exterior and 2 will be interior to the garage shell.

I know normally you would wire first then drywall, but I was thinking about those interior walls. For the apartment all the outlets will be low and for the garage all of them will be high. I could install the bottom sheet of drywall for the apartment first, then from the garage side, cut in boxes from the backside. Perfect cuts quick and easy without all the measure, mark, cut that I usually mess up anyway.

Am I missing something?

After too much old house remodeling, I am looking forward to electric work I can do with full access and minimal fishing!

 

[Stuart in MN]

If you need to get an electrical inspection, the inspector is going to want all that stuff visible during the inspection so it can't be covered up by drywall. Putting in the boxes first will give you a chance to practice up on your measuring and cutting techniques.

 

[teamextreme]

Just be aware that you would have to use actual "cut-in" or remodel boxes doing it this way. You can't hammer on new-work boxes from the backside with drywall installed because the nails are angled towards the front of the box. I would opt for using the standard practice and using nail-ons rather than what you are proposing. Taking time to measure precisely helps with drywall hole cutting. You'll get better with more practice.

 

[u2slow]

You can't hammer on new-work boxes from the backside with drywall installed because the nails are angled towards the front of the box.

Most new-work metallic boxes just have rows of holes for nails/screws whatever. Avoids that issue.

 

[Falcon67]

I did OSB walls in the shop - in several places I did the wire drop thing, then cut a hole for an old work box and fished the wire out. Easier than marking and cutting OSB. Either way works fine IMHO.

Point of order - you should be installing drywall from top down, not bottom up. Ceiling, then upper panels to support the edges of the ceiling drywall.

 

[mike93lx]

Why reinvent the wheel? Electrical is normally done first with rough in boxes, for a reason. If you can't accurately measure and cut for boxes, you should hire out the whole job as it probably won't end up that pretty anyway, to be honest

 

[u2slow]

Why reinvent the wheel? Electrical is normally done first with rough in boxes, for a reason.

This is only 'normal' in residential when you sequence each trade through with their rough-ins, and drywallers make short work of the rest.

As a do-it-all-myself guy, I'd rather do what the OP is suggesting. Especially in kitchen areas where all the layout in the world doesn't matter until the cabinets & countertop are actually in and appliances delivered.

 

[mike93lx]

This is only 'normal' in residential when you sequence each trade through with their rough-ins, and drywallers make short work of the rest.

As a do-it-all-myself guy, I'd rather do what the OP is suggesting. Especially in kitchen areas where all the layout in the world doesn't matter until the cabinets & countertop are actually in and appliances delivered.

But all of that is normally planned anyway. I can't imagine redoing a kitchen without knowing cabinet and appliance locations.

 

[Terry D]

But all of that is normally planned anyway. I can't imagine redoing a kitchen without knowing cabinet and appliance locations.

I agree, use new construction boxes, install all the wiring and then hang the drywall. there are ways of doing it where you don't have to accurately measure. Pros use roto zips, these take a little practice. I can do the exact same thing with a jab saw. Don't screw your drywall tight any where near the box. All you do is have to measure to get inside the box. Jab your saw in, now remember there are wires in there, just go in enough to get past the drywall. Cut across to find the inside edge, then jump over to find the outside edge. Use the outside as a guide, and you will cut perfectly around the box. Your sheet will then lay flat on the studs and you can finish screwing it. There are times here, when a inspector will fail the work if a remodel box is used in a new construction wall. Exception would be adding a device after the fact, but not doing a whole wall

 

[mattlikesbikes]

This is only 'normal' in residential when you sequence each trade through with their rough-ins, and drywallers make short work of the rest.

As a do-it-all-myself guy, I'd rather do what the OP is suggesting. Especially in kitchen areas where all the layout in the world doesn't matter until the cabinets & countertop are actually in and appliances delivered.

Having just redone two kitchens in my rental properties, I know this all too well. Without a doubt I plan to hang the drywall and upper cabinets in the kitchen before I drywall the other side. So I can run all my undercabinet wiring/ights from the backside as I use plug mold and low profile switch boxes. If I can put all my connections in boxes, accessed from the garage side of the wall, it would make everything even tighter and cleaner. While I plan to do things right, I don't have to deal with inspections so am not worried about making anyone happy but me.

 

[Jim greengo]

Not to mention it's a lot easier to install boxes before walls are insulated,and you dont have to worry about forgeting other things there inside walls when cutting in boxes.

 

[checkthisout]

If you want to do it that way, run conduit and surface boxes. That way you can finish the space without having to figure out where everything goes first.

 

[Bretny]

Get a rotozip and the correct bit. Lightly screw the piece of drywall into the wall with box locations marked. Then you just trace the metal box with the tip. It's very easy this way and usually the only measurement needed for outlets is the height off the floor and what stud it's on.

 

[Terry D]

Get a rotozip and the correct bit. Lightly screw the piece of drywall into the wall with box locations marked. Then you just trace the metal box with the tip. It's very easy this way and usually the only measurement needed for outlets is the height off the floor and what stud it's on.

I agree, as I said in my post above. I would start off with a jab saw, you get the same results, just not as fast. Using a rotozip takes sometime to get used to. Like you said, the correct bit is very important as also the depth adjustment. At least around here, everything for residential is plastic boxes. I have come back at times to install devices and had some boxes nearly cut in half and my wires nicked. This is what happens when a unexperienced person uses it. Not saying it is always like this, just someone that is not experienced.

 

[b-boy]

Get one of these. You drywall right over the box and use the magnetic locator to find the box behind the drywall. Trace the outline of the box, then use an oscillating tool with a drywall blade to cut out the box. Perfect every time. Works just as well for OSB.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YX8KZGO/?tag=atomicindus08-20

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076CZDF4L/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[u2slow]

Lots of ideas... go with what's easier for you.

As a trade electrician and only a DIY-hack-drywaller... I'm more precise cutting the boxes in after the board is up (where possible). Careful measuring, trace the box, cheapo jab saw. Easy. Mis-cuts are a pain to patch up again.

How does a magnetic setup work with a 4x4" box with a single-gang mud ring? Protector plates? Steel studs? Plastic box?

 

[nsula_country]

Why not nail on boxes and Roto-Zip the sheet rock for the penetrations?

CT

 

[joel63]

Why not nail on boxes and Roto-Zip the sheet rock for the penetrations?

CT

I need to watch a video on how to do this.

 

[nsula_country]

The time you will save alone is worth the price of a Roto-Zip and a few bits.

Position sheetrock, stick a screw in it. Plunge bit into center of box. Move outward until hit wall of box. Pull out and plunge outside the box and trace it out. Voila!

Just make sure wires are tucked in back of box and adjust depth of bit to "just through other side".

I'm sure YouTube has vids.

CT

 

[dscheidt]

If you want to do it that way, run conduit and surface boxes. That way you can finish the space without having to figure out where everything goes first.

Another advantage of doing it this way is that not having penetrations on the garage drywall greatly reduces sound transmission.

 

[Jim greengo]

I agree, as I said in my post above. I would start off with a jab saw, you get the same results, just not as fast. Using a rotozip takes sometime to get used to. Like you said, the correct bit is very important as also the depth adjustment. At least around here, everything for residential is plastic boxes. I have come back at times to install devices and had some boxes nearly cut in half and my wires nicked. This is what happens when a unexperienced person uses it. Not saying it is always like this, just someone that is not experienced.

Exactly.

 

[NUTTSGT]

I agree, use new construction boxes, install all the wiring and then hang the drywall. there are ways of doing it where you don't have to accurately measure. Pros use roto zips, these take a little practice. I can do the exact same thing with a jab saw. Don't screw your drywall tight any where near the box. All you do is have to measure to get inside the box. Jab your saw in, now remember there are wires in there, just go in enough to get past the drywall. Cut across to find the inside edge, then jump over to find the outside edge. Use the outside as a guide, and you will cut perfectly around the box. Your sheet will then lay flat on the studs and you can finish screwing it. There are times here, when a inspector will fail the work if a remodel box is used in a new construction wall. Exception would be adding a device after the fact, but not doing a whole wall

I don't have a Rotozip but I use a Dremel with the correct bit. The first time I used it, I was not impressed.

I used it again years later and think I was the problem not the tool. Let the tool do the work, and keep it tight against the "trim" object. Go slow until you have the hang of it.

One other thing I think helps is going the correct direction around the object. I believe one way cuts better than the other due to the rotation of the bit.


I'd do boxes first and prefer to use these boxes. Yes, more money but they clamp around the stud before you fasten them and you can adjust the depth where they sit in the wall.

https://www.menards.com/main/electr...outlet-box/b121adj/p-1444444961672-c-6425.htm