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Securing cables in panel

Kaizen

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Heading down the home stretch. Tons of cable ties at the store but not finding which are acceptable in panels. I want to secure my three feed cables to the back of the box to keep them from moving. They keep kicking out and touching the ground bar. What should I use?

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rlitman

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Any good non-metallic zip ties are acceptable. If you want to secure them to the panel back, you could use adhesive backed tie downs too.
 

rlitman

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You can put screws through the back of the panel. But since the panel appears to be directly mounted on concrete, that may prove difficult.
 

rlitman

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It’s just plywood...

Oh, then by all means, use screws. If that's the case, you could either use a self-tapper in the metal, or a wood screw through a hole.

And either screw down an attachment pad, or buy the zip ties that have a ring end meant to be screwed down.
 

Norcal

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If the panel had been mounted so the lugs were at the bottom, most of the problem would have never occurred, simple solution is, top feed, lugs on the top, bottom feed, lugs on the bottom, most loadcenters can be mounted either way.


The fitting where the main feed enters needs a bushing BTW.
 
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Kaizen

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If the panel had been mounted so the lugs were at the bottom, most of the problem would have never occurred, simple solution is, top feed, lugs on the top, bottom feed, lugs on the bottom, most loadcenters can be mounted either way.


The fitting where the main feed enters needs a bushing BTW.



Can you explain the bushing need since it’s a pvc pipe? I can see a sharp edge in metal conduit but on pvc?



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MFolks

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Some Ty-wraps with the screw mounting holes will accept 1/4" fasteners, the black ones seem to last longer than the white ones do.
 

rlitman

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Some Ty-wraps with the screw mounting holes will accept 1/4" fasteners, the black ones seem to last longer than the white ones do.

The black ones are UV resistant. There shouldn't be any UV in a closed metal cabinet.

If you're worried about longevity (and I sure would be), stick with a quality US made tie. THAT always seems to make them last longer, at least in my experience.
 

teamextreme

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A lot of your issue would also go away if you trimmed about 3" off each conductor. I'm all for leaving plenty of wire in case a termination goes bad, but you've got so much it's forcing the wire against the top, bottom and side of the panel.
 
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AntonLargiader

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If the panel had been mounted so the lugs were at the bottom, most of the problem would have never occurred...

Can the guts be removed and installed the other way 'round? It would GREATLY simplify things. Looking at the holes in the box, it could be that the guts would install exactly as if the box had been installed the other way, with the extra room at the bottom.
 
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Kaizen

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A lot of your issue would also go away if you trimmed about 3" off each conductor. I'm all for leaving plenty of wire in case a termination goes bad, but you've got so much it's forcing the wire against the top, bottom and side of the panel.



Yup did that as I had to take them all off to put a bushing on. Made it much easier to control.


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Kaizen

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Can the guts be removed and installed the other way 'round? It would GREATLY simplify things. Looking at the holes in the box, it could be that the guts would install exactly as if the box had been installed the other way, with the extra room at the bottom.



I’m committed now. It came out fine. I swear I asked about putting a panel sideways or upside down and was told no but don’t remember the reason.
Not a lot going on in the panel so plenty of room. Used a few ties to keep it in order.


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Jagmandave

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I assume this is a sub panel.....do you need a main breaker to act as a disconnect, or is the one in the main panel it feeds from sufficient?
 
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Kaizen

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I assume this is a sub panel.....do you need a main breaker to act as a disconnect, or is the one in the main panel it feeds from sufficient?



Yes sub. This panel specifically is sold as a sub panel and I assumed it did not need a main breaker. My electrician is not sure if inspector will require it. Not sure what code says


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Norcal

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Yes sub. This panel specifically is sold as a sub panel and I assumed it did not need a main breaker. My electrician is not sure if inspector will require it. Not sure what code says


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Is the panel in the same , or in a detached structure? That will dictate if a main is required or not.
 
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Kaizen

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Is the panel in the same , or in a detached structure? That will dictate if a main is required or not.



Uh oh. Detached

Damndamndamnit
It’s more then the six breaker rule. I will need a main shutoff which I just ordered. More then the price of the dang panel. Ug
Now I really need to know if I can flip the insides around? I will have to flip the door too so the cutouts for main are at the bottom. Besides a lot of waster work is there any issues with this?



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Norcal

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Uh oh. Detached

Damndamndamnit
It’s more then the six breaker rule. I will need a main shutoff which I just ordered. More then the price of the dang panel. Ug
Now I really need to know if I can flip the insides around? I will have to flip the door too so the cutouts for main are at the bottom. Besides a lot of waster work is there any issues with this?



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If the main kit is more then a new panel should have bought another panel.
 

malibu101

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If the breakers (including the main) move side to side- then having the panel "upside down" is OK.
If the breakers move up and down- up must be on and down must be off.
 
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