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Tools of Japan

jimmyin3D

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southbay, CA
I have a pair of those KTC pliers too and really like them. After completing my sets of Knipex Cobras and Pliers Wrenches, I've retired all my other slip joints, but find that the KTCs are the best tool for the job in certain circumstances.

I also ordered a pair of the Merry connector pliers from Frank's tonight. I've had my eye on them for a while, and have been debating between them and the KTC AD101, which while more expensive have interchangeable arms. Also picked up a set of the "daily special" TOP FRC-6000 combination ratchet wrenches. I've been impressed by the TOP HM-32 and HT-200B adjustables I own and hopefully the FRC-6000s will be of comparable quality.

O0Btns4.jpg

The TOP Zero adjustable wrench is probably the best adjustable wrench out there. It has a special worm drive mechanism that has absolutely no slop. It’s amazing! I also got the one pictured with the thin jaws, it’s been so useful especially for the price (I think ~$20 on amazonJp)
 
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Reed Prince

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The TOP Zero adjustable wrench is probably the best adjustable wrench out there. It has a special worm drive mechanism that has absolutely no slop. It’s amazing! I also got the one pictured with the thin jaws, it’s been so useful especially for the price (I think ~$20 on amazonJp)
Lobster has a version as well.

GoSElah.jpg


AnqqGvH.jpg
 

48548

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AaronColton

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Dec 26, 2019
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Not everything here is of Japan Origin but most of the socketry items are and I have replaced the 1/4 since this picture. It is a project I have been working on for a traveling tool box setup that I will be cutting into foam. I have found the Koken items to be much lighter than my Snap On equivalents making them perfect for travel use as the goal is a sub 32 pound tool setup.
 

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mr.lemons

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Not everything here is of Japan Origin

Nice selection of tools. They look like large sockets for a travel kit. What do you get up too?

Regarding the Vessel woody drivers. It's a promo photo from their Facebook page. Don't think they are available yet.

Confusing translation from Facebook.

Well, ladies and gentlemen, do you know this driver?
Who knows " what? You may notice the woody driver?"
That's right! It's a woody driver, but it's a limited model of color.

Limited Quantity and limited quantity. It's what people in the middle say, but it's a very hard-to-get product.
All you can ask for is now!
It is a product that is not handled by the sales store.

If you are interested in " a driver who is different from people " or " color cute please contact the store near you.
The color is red & Blue and Green & Yellow. Each type has a normal type, penetrating type!
(by the way, we don't have any stock in stock, so please take note when you are out of stock. )))))))
 

RKA

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1,744
Location
NJ
Those Impacta's don't have the oomph of a proper hand impact. My 1/2" Attack driver is the 'equalizer' for stuck screws.

M6 or anyone else that knows...I did eventually get the koken attack impact driver with in a kit with the 8mm koken bits. I would assume the cross head bits included will work fine on JIS screws, but can someone confirm? TIA!
 

JBH

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Jan 17, 2018
Messages
811
Last month I broke down and placed my first amazon.co.jp order. I don’t like relying on machine translation, but worst case I did not buy anything very expensive. (I speak German so never had similar concerns with amazon.de.) Also no Koken/Zeal, Nepros etc. simply because I have no further need for standard socketry.



First, Tone’s version of the Reverse Gear 11mm outer hex+1/4” drive socket set.



View media item 100798


Honestly I bought this set for two pieces: the 1/4” drive square adapter and the locking 11mm outer hex extension. These amplify the usefulness of an ultraportable (L-BOXX mini) tool kit with the USAG locking flex ratchet. I have not seen extensions or a decent* 11mm outer hex to 1/4” square adapter anywhere else, and could not find them sold separately either.



View media item 100799


*Astro Pneumatic’s 7441 set has one, sort of. Their system is different enough that it doesn’t play well with the Reverse Gear stuff (Facom/USAG/Wera/Würth/Matco/Tone/Deen/etc.), is a little thicker, and is poorly made. AP's extensions do not inspire very confidence either. The Snapon 11mm to 1/4” hex adapter and then a 1/4” square bit also works to convert the 11mm Reverse Gear ratchets to 1/4” drive. That’s what I had in the kit previously.



Sockets are the same as Facom/USAG/Wera (Würth and Matco have a different pattern in the smaller sizes), and even the size stamping font is the same as Facom/USAG. One nice distinction: sizes are stamped on 3 of the 6 11mm hex faces. (Wera, stupidly, have no size stamping on their 11mm outer hex sockets.) Satin finish looks identical to Facom/USAG/Wera/Würth. Case is plastic, and notably bulkier than the Facom/USAG Pico or Würth metal cases.



Engineer PH-55 scissors. Not much to say about these. Pretty much everyone knows them. Good, versatile small scissors.



View media item 100800


Vessel ratcheting screwdriver, Anex 1/4” drive impact driver, Anex 4mm handle with Y-bit, SK11 and Anex shallow bitgasm, PB Swiss glasses screwdriver.



View media item 100801


After having used it a few times, I’m no fan of the Vessel ratcheting screwdriver. High tooth count adds no utility to a ratcheting screwdriver, and I’d rank the feel of the mechanism well below PB Swiss or Williams/Snapon and below Reverse Gear as well. There is more play in the nose than I would prefer. The handle shape is uncomfortable to me, too.



Anex 4mm blade collet handle is not at the same level of refinement as Engineer, Felo, or the old Wiha version. The cap has a lot of friction. But it was also just a couple bucks, so whatever. Blade looks nicely machined, though I can't think of any Y fasteners around me to test fit.



SK11 half length (12mm) bits just seemed like a useful thing to have on hand. I’ve never seen bits that short before. Even the Würth and Matco “short” bits are 19mm.



PB Swiss from Japan? What can I say, it popped up on a “you might like” type list. It was only about 7 USD, and will make a fine glasses screwdriver to keep in my nightstand: big enough and colorful enough to find easily with glasses off, but not so big as to promote over-torquing. The 3.5mm hex double-sided blade is shorter than 51-series blades.



I bought the Anex impact driver instead of a more expensive one because an impact driver is a tool I’ve lived without and only discovered here on GJ. The only rubber grip Koken Attack Drivers I could find on Amazon were hulking 1/2” drive models. I’ve only tested this one out, but I think the compact size and standard 1/4” bits was the right way to go for my potential future needs. The bitholder is covered in plastic. I’ve not sure why.



View media item 100802


The included PH2 impact bit has global standard detent placement.



View media item 100803


I picked up the Anex 19mm security Torx bits to replace the standard Torx bits in the Würth close quarters sets. TR20 is the only one I really use, but I guess it is good to have the whole set.



View media item 100804


3.Peaks mini bolt cutter and stainless steel thin precision pliers



View media item 100805


The mini bolt cutter isn’t a Cobolt substitute. It doesn’t open as wide and it takes more effort to use. The handles are stamped metal, like a Gripon.



I saw Reed Prince’s post on the thin Keibas,

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=8197649&postcount=4727



but I couldn’t find both of these styles from Keiba when searching by model number. Both thin pliers have already proved useful. For an idea of just how thin they are, compare to equivalent Knipex (older, possibly Schmitz-made) models:



View media item 100806
View media item 100807


Despite the thin jaws they have proven plenty rigid and strong for precision tasks so far. They may not be as refined in the hand as box-joint Schmitzpex, but they are less than half the price. I wish I had discovered these pliers years ago. Highly recommended if you have a use for them.
 
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Reed Prince

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measuredtwice

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Good info and photos :thumbup:

I have a Hakko (Italy) pliers that is similar to the 3.peaks. It's also stamped instead of forged. And it also has a bypass-style cutter as well. It's not stainless though. No complaints but I don't use it a lot.

I paid $11 from Amazon but it looks like the price is high at the moment. Price should come back down. -->

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FZPQ874/?tag=atomicindus08-20
 

JBH

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Jan 17, 2018
Messages
811
Handle shape is the typical acetate handle.

Except for the junky old Craftsman stuff we threw away from my grandfather’s wood shop after he died, I’ve never held such a handle. Now I know why :)

The bit storage mechanism is also a bit difficult to remove at times.

I forgot to mention the magazine - attaching a bit magazine takes so much force I thought I was going to break something.

Otherwise it's a well done ratcheting screwdriver (compare it to the older version which was coarse tooth and not well designed).

IMO PB Swiss and Reverse Gear are much better. Williams/Snapon too if you can live with the underdesigned bit cavity and cap. (Mine is the Williams T with no storage at all.)

There is always going to be some play in the nose of a ratcheting screwdriver as that's how most of them are in the hand.

This one has more play than the above mentioned. More than Toptul, Irwin, or vintage Schröder (Witte, Craftsman) too. It’s the worst I have in terms of play.

I'm not sure why you are ranking the mechanism below the PB or Snap-On/Williams


I am strictly comparing the feel of the ratchet mechanism based on direct comparison with that comment. High tooth counts in something one twists in place provides no advantage. Those have lower backdrag and smoother feel. IMO it is a loaner-grade tool.
 

M6erfan

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'Merica!
Damn, that sets them apart for sure. They are also the 330 version which is a twist when you hit the head with a hammer?
Link to purchase?


Sent from my iPhone using Garage Journal

I don't think the 330's twist but I may be mistaken.
 

BigBoreFan

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Joined
Oct 16, 2010
Messages
311
Nice selection of tools. They look like large sockets for a travel kit. What do you get up too?


Looks like a motorcycle kit to me. Large sockets for axle nuts. Also the MotionPro tools there, that's a MC specialty tool company.

Nice kit.
 

M6erfan

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'Merica!
M6 or anyone else that knows...I did eventually get the koken attack impact driver with in a kit with the 8mm koken bits. I would assume the cross head bits included will work fine on JIS screws, but can someone confirm? TIA!

They work excellent on JIS heads
 
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mr.lemons

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Oct 24, 2017
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Noticed a dot on some screws today so assume they are JIS. They are in the back of a Korean brand TV that was made in Hungary to be sold in the UK. :confused:

IMG-4036.jpg


IMG-4040.jpg
 
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JBH

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Jan 17, 2018
Messages
811
The PB swiss design is a 24 tooth design (one of the lowest of most ratcheting screwdrivers)...

Please explain to me why you imagine tooth count matters on a tool that you literally spin in place. There's an argument for fine tooth count when working on a fastener in a tight space with a horizontal lever, though even that's overstated for many applications I think. But on something you twirl around?

It has very little play even when compared to the higher tooth count versions. I can barely feel any play with the Vessel version. Try to see how much play you have with the shaft/blade of the Reverse Gear (High-Five/Newtools) or with the Wera/Xiaomi versions. Even the Megapro has some play.

I don't have Wera or Xiaomi. Compared to the the other ones I can compare to - PB Swiss (long and short nose), Williams short T-handle, Reverse Gear (Würth, Facom, USAG, Bahco stubby), Toptul (gearknob stubby and convertable pistol, OEMs unknown), and Schroeder (Witte, Craftsman "Grip Driver"), Wiha Topra, Irwin 21-in-1 - there is more play on Vessel's nose than any of those.

Backdrag doesn't really matter for ratcheting screwdrivers. It would matter more for a bit-ratchet or actual ratchet.

The exact opposite is true IMO. On a ratchet or bit ratchet, often you can secure the head with pressure on top as you're actuating the ratchet. With a screwdriver, the shaft and handle get in the way of that! If a ratcheting screwdriver doesn't have sufficiently low backdrag to completely back out a 1.25" machine screw from a T-nut or threaded insert without need to grab the fastener, I will stick it in a drawer and pick up a better ratcheting screwdriver.

A coarser tooth count doesn't necessarily mean it's a smoother feel.

Smoother is smoother, and smoother probably correlates weakly to tooth count.
 

JBH

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811
Higher tooth count = lower swing arc. When tightening a fastener using the ratcheting feature you don't want to overtighten or torque it (which can often happen with coarse tooth count screwdrivers such as the PB).

You do understand that ratcheting has nothing to do with force applied for tightening or loosening, right?

You manually tighten/loosen and use the ratcheting mechanism to reset position. Literally the only thing the ratcheting mechanism on a screwdriver does is let you twist the screwdriver back and forth without spinning it or moving your hand.

Wurth is a Megapro rebrand or at least it appears to be.

Nope. At least not this one:

https://www.wurthusa.com/Tools/Hand...6-Bit-Magazine-(Bits-Not-Included)/p/06136400

Backdrag is a non issue for ratcheting screwdrivers (and I've used various ones professionally).

Keep believing that, while asserting ratcheting affects the torque exerted on a fastener... :lol_hitti

Tooth count does play into it but backdrag doesn't really matter.

Repeating something over and over again does not make it true. Again, what does tooth count matter when all the teeth do (assuming low slop) is let you keep your hand on the handle?

Smoothness matters, because feel matters.

Backdrag matters, because you don't want the fastener to spin in the opposite of your intended direction when the ratchet mechanism is used.

I'd argue that the Vessel is probably the cheapest out of most of those (excluding shipping etc).

In fairness that is probably true. However, none of these tools are that expensive. Even PB Swiss is only about $60 if you hit the sales right.
 

jimmyin3D

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I’m one of the few ppl who hate ratcheting screwdrivers. I had a SO hard handle version for yrs but never used it. For some reason I like the bit-holding screwdrivers way more.

My current favorites are from PB Swiss. I doubt I’ll ever use another one I love these.
The Pb Swiss Insider, stubby version, and the T-handle. They all have a strong magnet, bits are held in a smart logical way inside the handles, and they just feel good using them.

ba2c87a1bd2817b9f362ebe2f07a9918.jpg
30ea29cbae654a0f7673cf1c1fc4560c.jpg
942ec375a54412ecf6706b59f16b5ae6.jpg

I know these aren’t from Japan but I got the first two off amazonJP for a really good price.

And it seems like you guys are arguing about which ratcheting screwdriver is better? Or smoother? Sooo yeah haha.





——————————————————————-
Check out my for sale listing in the classifieds:
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=438994
 

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jimmyin3D

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I'm not a big fan of them either. Especially since I discovered 12v drivers :thumbup:

Oh you’re right if i have space or know I’m doing a couple screws my M12 impact driver has been such a godsend. I wonder if in 10yrs we’ll look back and be put off by these as we are to Ni-Cad powered cordless tools.
 

JBH

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A ratcheting mechanism also allows you to apply more force...than a regular conventional bit-holder or a regular screwdriver.

Everyone is entitled to their own subjective opinions and personal rankings of whatever objects are under discussion. However, other readers may benefit from correcting clear errors of fact.

So, let's reestablish the function of a ratcheting mechanism on any fastening hand tool actually does. The ratchet is not there to turn the fastener in the intended rotation!* Rather, the ratchet mechanism exists solely to disengage the torque source from the fastener.

More concretely, you apply torque to turn the fastener in your intended direction, then you apply torque in the opposite direction to engage the ratchet, ideally without transferring any of that opposite-direction torque to the fastener. (A term for opposite-direction torque transmitted to the fastener in a ratcheting tool is "backdrag.") Then you can apply additional torque to the fastener without resetting your grip by again applying torque to turn the fastener in your intended direction.

Therefore, tooth count cannot affect torque transfer, because the teeth are decoupling, not transmitting, torque. Backdrag, however, is literally dragging the fastener back where it was due to imperfect decoupling!

*Exception to the general rule: rotator ratchets have additional gearing that actually turns a fastener.

That's also why you find pistol grip/pivot style ratcheting screwdrivers or t-handle style which are specifically intended for higher torque situations.

There are also T-handles that are not ratchets. Felo and PB Swiss are probably more common here, but here's a Japanese brand example:

61JzIQbZsvL._SL1500_.jpg


The sole benefit to adding a ratchet to a T/pistol handle (or any other) is that it allows turning the fastener without resetting grip. You are correct that a ratchet can speed up the process (because you don't have to reset your grip) but it can only make torque transfer less precise (due to slop) not more so.

It does because you can easily control how much torque you apply on a fastener depending on the swing arc used. You want to torque down a fastener even more? Simply do a bigger swing arc, it's that simple.

Again, the swing arc and torque applied in the intended direction and the swing arc in the ratcheting direction have nothing to do with each other.

The general benefits of finer teeth are smaller working angle with a horizontal lever tool (i.e. a conventional ratchet, not a screwdriver) and arguably greater strength (more teeth engaged on pawl and gear).

If you're concerned about backdrag use a bit-holder or regular screwdriver.

Backdrag is by definitition ~100% on any bit-holder or regular screwdriver: if you turn the handle in the opposite direction from the intended rotation, the fastener will exactly follow your motion!
 

Reed Prince

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I'm not a big fan of them either. Especially since I discovered 12v drivers :thumbup:
I'm repairing a friend's synth after finishing work on mine, and have a piece of outboard gear that needs a new rotary encoder, so I decided today to order a new electric screwdriver. I had a first generation 2.4 volt Milwaukee for years; this time around I'm going to try out this Makita.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/DVTL1ANMRh8" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 

Reed Prince

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got this Vessel ratcheting stubby screwdriver the other day. Really like it. Backdrag is very low, much higher tooth count than my SO full size ratcheting screwdriver. Also surprised at how often I've used the flexible shaft already. Only downside is that it is a true stubby....not a lot of handle to get a grip on but its OK.
I own that one too. They make a number of different styles with the same mechanism.

SuCseXA.jpg

48h7zd8.png

z5zN5RF.png
 

BK13

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I'm repairing a friend's synth after finishing work on mine, and have a piece of outboard gear that needs a new rotary encoder, so I decided today to order a new electric screwdriver. I had a first generation 2.4 volt Milwaukee for years; this time around I'm going to try out this Makita.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/DVTL1ANMRh8" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Dangit, I told myself I DIDN'T want another battery platform, but now I think I MUST have this... Thanks a lot, buddy! LOL
 

toddmorr

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649
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Potomac, Maryland
nice summary of the Vessel offerings there, thank you. I'd be tempted to try their full size, except that my Snap On full size is extremely low backdrag, really nice feel in the hand, probably around 35 tooth count. As has been pointed out though, swing arc in this kind of tool is of no concern.
 

measuredtwice

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Mar 17, 2019
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USA
There are 2 part numbers. 125708 has jaws fit. 125809 does not have jaws fit and it is recommended by Vessel for restoration work.

attachment.php
 

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Reed Prince

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Some small tools I've purchased recently.
The Engineer DR-54 ratcheting palm driver in the lower left corner is made in Taiwan, and is mechanically quite similar to the Taiwanese ones next to it, with all having considerable backdrag. If I'm lucky, each of them will come in really handy once or twice.

2GXL5YP.jpg


The Vessel TD-73MC is bulkier and has more backdrag than the Anex 425, but is well made and holds screws extremely firmly.

Qu53wOQ.jpg


With magnets, proximity is key, and having the ring magnet on a sliding outer cylinder optimizes its effectiveness. The Anex 409 magcatch (not included with the 425) just doesn't transmit many of the magnetic lines of force to the tip if the bit. It's better than nothing, but I'm rather disappointed by it.

bmWKSGq.jpg


The Anex 316 is surprisingly nice. It has much lower backdrag than the Engineer ratchet, and only a few fewer teeth (about 40 vs. 50). The plastic "spinner disc" is made of quality plastic and the removable handle is a nice addition. I've had the blue Anex 62 mini stubby for a while now and like it, but the 316 might be my go-to tool more often in the future.

rAMnpk4.jpg


The SK11 SRD-224 is somewhat of a disappointment. Only the one bit in the ratchet is 16mm long, and the rest of the supplied bits are at least 19mm. I'm pretty sure it is made in the same Taiwanese factory that produced my old Husky to its left, as the ratcheting parts appear identical. I wouldn't be surprised it the Tone is also made in the same place. All feel about the same. The Felo to the right has more teeth and much lower backdrag, and a kit with more bits and a nicer box than the Tone happens to be on sale this Presidents Day weekend at Detroit Metalworking Supply. Use the code "president" for free shipping. https://detroitmetalworkingsupply.c...lhxphpztx-bits-mini-ratchet-bit-holder-61545/

P47NGIt.jpg


The Sunflag 6200 has been around for decades and has many good reviews on Amazon Japan. It has low backdrag but only 10 teeth.

DDUtpy1.jpg


The Vessel 270W reversible stubby has a cavity that is too deep for standard bits (the Felo in the first picture is my current favorite) but works great with long ones. And I was impressed by the weight of the Anex slim offset screwdrivers. You can apply a lot of pressure without worrying about them bending at all.

nCUqyBZ.jpg
 
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m6z

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2,325
Location
Missouri
My Vessel screwdrivers are holding up a lot better than the Hazet's I picked up around the same time. I doubt I buy anything else made in Slovenia.
 

measuredtwice

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From Vessel's official website:

https://www.vessel.co.jp/english/product/screwdriver/detail/125708

https://www.vessel.co.jp/english/userfiles/handtools/900_fl_E.pdf

The only thing that I don't see on the Phillips #3 driver is the barcode but it has the darker color on the overmold. Vessel only lists one part number now anyway.

I got my catalog from Vessel but I guess it was out of date. I downloaded the new catalog.

I think the set on Amazon may have been made for the American market. There's a Vessel USA website and the 9006 packaging is shown with all English writing instead of the typical Japanese.

--> https://www.vesseltoolsusa.com/product/screwdriver/detail/VTU9006CS

The packaging says the drivers have Jawsfit.
 
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