Footing/Stem Wall detail ?

[clonestocker]

My plans were drawn with a monolithic pour but after talking to a concrete contractor because of the slope of my lot he is suggesting going with a footer and stem wall. I talked to the city and they said put together a detail and bring it back to review. I haven't been able to find any dimensioned details online. Anybody have any ideas on where to find what I'm needing? IBC2012
thx matt

 

[Retroman]

Go back to the EOR and have him provide one. He will have to run the calcs, draw, it wet stamp it and charge you for it.

 

[matt_i]

How high is the wall? If its under 4ft and you have a single story building....

I'd make the footing 2x10 height and 24" wide. 3ksi concrete. Put 4pc #4 rebars in it along the long length and you can stick a few verticals pointing up to tie into the stem wall. Also advisable is a "keyway" of a 2x4 buried centerline top of the footing to keep the wall engaged due to the unbalanced fill. The poured wall will fill out the "key".

 

[ard]

Go back to the EOR and have him provide one. He will have to run the calcs, draw, it wet stamp it and charge you for it.

not necessary.

And if OP is asking here, telling him to go to the EOR seems purposefully unhelpful.





OP you can ask your concrete contractor to give you input. Draw up matt's suggestion, add your contractors input- see if the city finds it acceptable

 

[larry4406]

Here is some info from a 22' wide by 20'-8" deep detached garage we build for some of our homes using a stem wall design. Hopefully food for thought.

Dropped footing and stem wall allows you to compensate for grade as was recommended to you. This usually results in loose fill under the slab unless you go to heroic efforts to correct; accordingly we use a structural slab with integrally poured grade beams. The loose fill's only purpose is that of a one-short mold for the concrete and beams.

The foundation walls have a slab ledge on the inside which supports the slab perimeter. This allows the slab to be dropped relative to top of wall and creates the stem. Ensure your stem is minimum of 8" above finished grade.

Pretty standard approach.

Similar thread with pictures here
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=305642

 

[Retroman]

not necessary.

And if OP is asking here, telling him to go to the EOR seems purposefully unhelpful.




OP you can ask your concrete contractor to give you input. Draw up matt's suggestion, add your contractors input- see if the city finds it acceptable

Your going to have to do whatever the permittee agency requires, and to dismiss it as not necessary shows how uninformed you are.

Why would going back to the guy that has engineered the building when you want to vary from the stamped permitted drawings unhelpful? Pretty sure if you deviate from the approved plans on a foundation you will need a detail from the EOR."Get the contractors input" Your right great advice leave it up to him.

Why have any drawings or engineering just make it up as you go along. Sorry I brought the proper procedure to the OP

So you can just change the foundation without engineering? I am a concrete guy and we don't draw details. Pretty sure he will need a stamped detail there may be a boiler plate one the engineer will stamp.

Sometimes I really wonder about some of you guys.

 

[readhead]

Going back to the EOR is probably the correct answer. Putting together some typical detail may work but if the city requires a stamp, and I presume it does, it will be for nothing and cause delays and possible additional cost.

Ask the city if the revisions require a stamp and go from there. If they don’t, great for you, presuming they accept it. If they do, make an appointment with the engineer.

 

[Retroman]

Here is some info from a 22' wide by 20'-8" deep detached garage we build for some of our homes using a stem wall design. Hopefully food for thought.

Dropped footing and stem wall allows you to compensate for grade as was recommended to you. This usually results in loose fill under the slab unless you go to heroic efforts to correct; accordingly we use a structural slab with integrally poured grade beams. The loose fill's only purpose is that of a one-short mold for the concrete and beams.

The foundation walls have a slab ledge on the inside which supports the slab perimeter. This allows the slab to be dropped relative to top of wall and creates the stem. Ensure your stem is minimum of 8" above finished grade.

Pretty standard approach.

Similar thread with pictures here
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=305642

Ya show that to the inspector and your all good.

You guys kill me!!

 

[jetnow1]

What is needed will vary depending on the local permitting office. My town required only a hand drawn detail showing what I wanted to do, and a list of lumber sizes. One inspection on the foundation hole, one on framing, one on the trench for the electric, rough and final on electric, and a final inspection. I built an[ similar size addition for my sister, needed complete plans, 5 inspections just on the foundation, separate inspections for framing, sheathing nailing, the tyvek installation, and the roofing. They even did a separate inspection of the shower pan. Only the building dept can tell you what they will want, most are pretty good about working with you if you follow their rules.

 

[GeddyT]

My county handed me a printed out building guide to cover local prescriptive code. There were several pages on concrete, and I just did exactly as it said. I did my own details and have attached them.

Whether my plan would be sufficient for your build would depend on a lot of things such as frost depth in your area, height at the low and high points of the wall, your framing situation about the stem wall (height and thickness of wall above), etc.

 

[larry4406]

Ya show that to the inspector and your all good.

You guys kill me!!

He said he needed some info to revise his plans. He now has knowledge on what to look for to revise his plans accordingly should he proceed to change direction.

What’s the problem?

 

[NC.50]

Where do you live? That will affect footing and stemwall design. In addition each municipality is different with respect to how they review plans and do inspections. While I never like to generalize in my 30+ years of experience many engineers over-design and cost you money not only for the "stamped" drawing but also in what they design. By the way....I am an engineer and builder so I do have plenty of understanding and knowledge.

I most always ask the contractor assuming he is experienced. The fact that he recommended a footing and stemwall design because you have sloping ground makes sense. To do a monolithic pour generally requires flat ground. And if your property slopes that would require cuts/fills to do a monolithic your contractor is giving you good advice. Of course I am saying this without seeing a foundation plan nor a grading plan so take this for what it's worth.

Generally good concrete contractors will steer you in the right direction. Their experience and reputation depend on doing it right. I generally only use engineers where I have to. Easy for me to say after building 1000+ homes and many commercial structures.

my 2 cents

 

[Retroman]

He said he needed some info to revise his plans. He now has knowledge on what to look for to revise his plans accordingly should he proceed to change direction.

What’s the problem?

No problem, I only suggested he go back to the EOR seems like a logical place to start. I guess our building codes are stricter than yours any foundation change/deviation needs a stamped detail.

Currently doing a job where we cut and removed a 20' x 20' x 4" piece of slab on grade it had a bunch of chipped up area's where tile had been removed the new tenant wanted it fixed. we doweled with #4 and put in a 2' x 2' #4 rebar grid just a slab on grade. it failed a pre slab inspection because there was no pour back detail in the approved set of drawings.
The general had to go back and get a stamped detail from the EOR. i guess just depends on your area of the country.

 

[Bert_]

No problem, I only suggested he go back to the EOR seems like a logical place to start. I guess our building codes are stricter than yours any foundation change/deviation needs a stamped detail.

Currently doing a job where we cut and removed a 20' x 20' x 4" piece of slab on grade it had a bunch of chipped up area's where tile had been removed the new tenant wanted it fixed. we doweled with #4 and put in a 2' x 2' #4 rebar grid just a slab on grade. it failed a pre slab inspection because there was no pour back detail in the approved set of drawings.
The general had to go back and get a stamped detail from the EOR. i guess just depends on your area of the country.

What a pain in the ****. Where I'm at you just build what you want. The only thing that gets inspected is the electrical.

 

[ard]

Your going to have to do whatever the permittee agency requires, and to dismiss it as not necessary shows how uninformed you are.

Why would going back to the guy that has engineered the building when you want to vary from the stamped permitted drawings unhelpful? Pretty sure if you deviate from the approved plans on a foundation you will need a detail from the EOR."Get the contractors input" Your right great advice leave it up to him.

Why have any drawings or engineering just make it up as you go along. Sorry I brought the proper procedure to the OP

So you can just change the foundation without engineering? I am a concrete guy and we don't draw details. Pretty sure he will need a stamped detail there may be a boiler plate one the engineer will stamp.

Sometimes I really wonder about some of you guys.

Lol

Funny how this thread ended, eh?

whatever....

 

[clonestocker]

Thanks for all the help guys. My drafts person sent me over a footer, stem and slab detail that I will take to the city on Monday. thx again matt

 

[yeldogt]

Thanks for all the help guys. My drafts person sent me over a footer, stem and slab detail that I will take to the city on Monday. thx again matt

Over the years i have tried to do mono pours .. they do them all over Europe. It's always something -- Township/ County/ general contractor/ concrete contractor/ architect ... always a reason not to or can't. Really .. it's being uncommon in the USA residential market and not having experience.

If it's something that is done in your area .. and your lot truly is unable to do it .. just be careful with what you do. You want to make sure it's properly engineered ..especially if two stories ..and/or any water issues.

I get that people want to save $$ -- but make sure the draft person is qualified to make determinations ... if there is no code oversight

 

[Chaznsc]

not necessary.

And if OP is asking here, telling him to go to the EOR seems purposefully unhelpful.

OP you can ask your concrete contractor to give you input. Draw up matt's suggestion, add your contractors input- see if the city finds it acceptable

Really bad advice, this is -YODA

 

[GMCGarage]

Thanks for all the help guys. My drafts person sent me over a footer, stem and slab detail that I will take to the city on Monday. thx again matt

Was it engineered? If it is exposed on the exterior, you basically now have a retaining wall. Last thing you want is the wall sliding down the hill or pushing out at the top.

 

[GMCGarage]

Lol

Funny how this thread ended, eh?

whatever....

Most homeowners dont mind having a crack or two in their concrete walls. I would say more than less here do. Thats why the engineered path is suggested.