I have a few, specific questions about adding outlets to garage

[exactly]

My garage has only two outlets in it: one back-wall outlet on a 20-amp circuit that is shared with the two bathroom and laundry room outlets and three incandescent bulbs on the other side of the wall, and one ceiling outlet on a 15-amp circuit that is shared with the garage door opener, four exterior LED bulbs, one garage incandescent bulb, and two garage T5 bulbs. I will be replacing the garage lighting with six to eight, four-foot LED shop lights

The primary goal is simply to be able to operate my 1.5 HP dust collector and 1.5 HP table saw at the same time without tripping a breaker.

My questions are as follows:
1) Why should I not just add a couple of outlets on the preexisting circuits or even just use them as they are?
2) As pending electrical work is preventing me from insulating and drywalling the unfinished walls, can or should I rough something in even if it is not hooked up right away so that I can get insulation and drywall in? Would conduit be better?
3) Should I wait to put insulation in the attic until electrical work is done? Why or why not?
4) If I buy wire for a subpanel and start running it through my basement ceiling to get to the garage, it is 6/3 Romex that I want, correct?
5) Is there any other spec I need to pay attention to for my subpanel feeder?
6) Is there anything wrong with purchasing said wire from Home Depot? I can get a 75' length for about $125 (product name: 75 ft. 6/3 Stranded Romex SIMpull CU NM-B W/G Wire).
7) If I do go straight for a subpanel right away, can I run the wire out the side or the bottom of the panel box, or must it go out the top? The reason I ask is because the panel is located in a finished wall in the basement and has some spray foam at the top to plug open but unused punch out holes.

The answers to these questions will help me decide where to go from here.

 

[sberry]

2 new circuits would be ideal. a sub makes it all easier and lets them have local breakers, lets you add. They make an 8 space just for this. A 6 is a few bucks cheaper.

 

[JeepJohn62]

I would put my wiring in while the walls are open.

I believe you need to run a safety ground which is a 6/4 wire.

You didn't state the location of the main panel, but apparently is 75 feet away.

The existing wiring is already loaded with laundry and such.

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[pattenp]

6/3 Romex is 3 conductors plus a ground which is 4 wires.

 

[exactly]

I would put my wiring in while the walls are open.

I believe you need to run a safety ground which is a 6/4 wire.

You didn't state the location of the main panel, but apparently is 75 feet away.

The existing wiring is already loaded with laundry and such.

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Thanks!

The wire run would be about 55 - 60'. Down a few feet, into drop ceiling side of basement, 30' across the house, then 15' to panel and down a couple feet. I forget the exact measurement off the top of my head, but 50' was a tad too short.

The electric dryer is on its own 30-amp circuit, actually. So the only load on the existing 20-amp circuit is literally a couple lightbulbs that can be replaced with LED bulbs and whatever gets plugged into the two outlets (which, in the three months I've lived here, has yet to be anything more than a box fan).

 

[JeepJohn62]

6/3 Romex is 3 conductors plus a ground which is 4 wires.

Oh. Thank you.

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[JeepJohn62]

Like sberry mentioned above, a separate panel that you can use for garage shop is the way to go.

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[75gmck25]

Assuming the wire is all inside a building, copper 6/3 NM is easy to find and would work with a 60 amp breaker in the main panel. You could also use 2-2-2-4 aluminum SER cable and it might not be that much more expensive, but its bigger diameter and has a larger bend radius. Compare prices (with shipping) from places like wireandcableyourway.com before you buy local.

2-2-2-4 AL SER handles up to about 90 amps (IIRC), so it would give you flexibility if you later want to upsize the breaker in the main panel and add an electric car charger or other high amp device.

Subpanels come in different sizes and a 30 space panel with a main breaker might not be much more than an 8 space panel, and you have much more physical space for your wiring. Since the breaker you install in the main panel determines max amps, you can use a subpanel that is designed for 60 amps, 100 amps, etc. Pick a brand that matches your main panel so the breakers will interchange.

Wiring can enter the panel from top, bottom or side knockouts as long as you install the correct retainers in the knockout. In most places you can also install a sub-panel upside down if it makes the wiring easier, but I am too OCD to want to see an upside down panel on the wall.

Bruce

 

[dscheidt]

Subpanels come in different sizes and a 30 space panel with a main breaker might not be much more than an 8 space panel, and you have much more physical space for your wiring. Since the breaker you install in the main panel determines max amps, you can use a subpanel that is designed for 60 amps, 100 amps, etc. Pick a brand that matches your main panel so the breakers will interchange.

Pay attention to what is installed where you are, there's usually good pricing for that. Where I am, homeline stuff is the most commonly installed panel in new construction, and the pricing for the stuff that's commonly used is pretty good, and the prices for less commonly used are not. A 20 space main breaker panel doesn't cost much more than a 6 or 8 space lug sub panel, basically you're paying for the breaker, and they give you the panel for free.

 

[sberry]

The panels are all over the place and a pain in the azz. Seems like some of the stores change the stock all the time, and they don't carry all in the line. I have seen some 12 main lug depending on the store and it is in a mid size box. If this was a real garage or shop so to speak 20 spaces can be used up. 6 goes way too fast and in this case leaves 4 for future. The 8 comes in the same box, its small cheap and simple.

 

[sberry]

I will also agree the panel is the cheap part, this guy is a poster child for simple and there is some trade off with the wire. Did he say 125$ for a 6 copper cable? That is cool, its easy to do. Pipe is hard here and the other consideration is alum cable, a number 2.
I put them on a 60 but it essentially gives a whole new service to it and I do this when using a full size panel if it all works out. They don't always got main lug ****, they pretty much stock main breaker and to tell the truth,,,,,,,,, I have wired and worked in way too many hot panels, they now have main screw covers, I love Homeline position in the market but I think I brushed the buss in about every one I ever worked on. It might be as good or better than the QO for electric but they stick out and its sooooooooooo much moire tempting to exercise that main when doing the installation especially in panels you need under power during the construction or installation.