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Tools of Japan

mercucho

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Some more recent-ish orders, including my introduction to the Ko-ken Z series.

ET5ibsm.jpg


N5EYebF.jpg
This toolkit is no longer available... At least in this type of box. :mad:
 
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mercucho

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Did a double take when looking at these. Had to google how they work. Interesting design. :thumbup:
Apart from the features shown in the video, these keys have the advantage of being very short so they can easily access very small workplaces.

Comparison of an Asahi Daxkey key with a "normal" Facom Allen key.

49621416793_9ae2e51a9a_b.jpg
 
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bwringer

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Jan 1, 2013
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Indianapolis

Thanks for posting that. Just ordered a 150mm/6" Lobster adjustable to try out in my motorcycle tool kit. A quality 6" adjustable is the bee's knees for dealing with the various sizes of axle heads and axle nuts on my bikes without carrying several large wrenches. It works fine up to 24mm on a decently maintained bike. Just clamp the wrench on and give it a kick if it's tight.
 

Dave455

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This toolkit is no longer available... At least in this type of box. :mad:

I’ve found with KoKen that there are all sorts of things not in the catalogue that are available if you ask.

Things like sets seem to vary depending on the intended market, but you can usually get hold of them if you can wait for them to come from Japan, especially if you have a part number.

My dealer tells me that KoKen U.K. are quite good in this regard!
 

Bigblue&Goldie

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AZ
Another good review from MrSubaru on the Vessel WoodCompo screwdriver set. I don't own very many Japanese tools, but I happen to own this Vessel set. I enjoy his tool reviews as he's an actual technician and a former SnapOn dealer, so he actually knows tools.

 

mercucho

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A little thing I just noticed: when people post something and then delete it, I still see it because I'm subscribed to the thread and get email notifications. :bounce:
:thumbup:

In my case, sometimes I write a message without much thought and then I see that I am in error and, of course, I delete it.

I make many mistakes, I'm sorry. :(
 

mr.lemons

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Anex magnets again. Mostly use 150mm long bits at work to reach inside computer cases. Found the magnet gives me enough grip to use the bits like a screwdriver to save me swapping them out for just one or two screws. Saves a bit of time.

Wouldn't want to be without then now. Thanks superautobacs for making me aware of these things. :thumbup:

IMG-5241.jpg
 

CR888

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Feb 19, 2017
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Just had some HIT pipe wrenches arrive, pretty impressed with them. Replaceable jaws just new to punch out a roll pin. They have a spring loaded 'rocking' head which makes repositioning the wrench very easy. Knurling is good, top jaw is a little sloppy but its a pipe wrench. I got 250 300 350 & 2x450mm (18") sizes. Have a 24" 600mm on its way. Very expensive if bought retail but I kinda got a you **** deal.
 

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Reed Prince

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Just realized that I neglected to include a Vessel stubby ratcheting driver in my post of little ratchets last month. The 820W-23 only has 20 teeth, but unsurprisingly also has lower backdrag than the 72 tooth model.

pg7ymNS.jpg



Also noticed that I forgot to fix the https problem with one of that post's photo links, so here is that text again and a proper photo link.


The SK11 SRD-224 is somewhat of a disappointment. Only the one bit in the ratchet is 16mm long, and the rest of the supplied bits are at least 19mm. I'm pretty sure it is made in the same Taiwanese factory that produced my old Husky to its left, as the ratcheting parts appear identical. I wouldn't be surprised it the Tone is also made in the same place. All feel about the same. The Felo to the right has more teeth and much lower backdrag.

P47NGIt.jpg
 

rice rocket

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Mar 24, 2011
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3,175
Magnets in computer cases is a double-edged sword, sometimes it's hard to place a screw in a deep spot, but you also end up getting stuck to nearly everything on the way in and out.

I mostly prefer not, and tilting the computer so it's laying flat so I can drop things in the general location and fishing around w/ the screwdriver tip.
 

Private Lugnutz

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I realize this is going to be totally uncharacteristic for this thread - and it is totally uncharacteristic of my own vintage tool aesthetics, too, but I found a corny, kitschy, chintzy but complete and intact c. 1968 'Made in Japan' imported tool kit at the flea market yesterday..., here are some teaser shots, and if anyone is interested in seeing more, I posted many photos, including some close-ups, as well as a full write-up on a new thread down on the Vintage Board linked here.
 

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superautobacs

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Just realized that I neglected to include a Vessel stubby ratcheting driver in my post of little ratchets last month. The 820W-23 only has 20 teeth, but unsurprisingly also has lower backdrag than the 72 tooth model.

pg7ymNS.jpg



Also noticed that I forgot to fix the https problem with one of that post's photo links, so here is that text again and a proper photo link.


The SK11 SRD-224 is somewhat of a disappointment. Only the one bit in the ratchet is 16mm long, and the rest of the supplied bits are at least 19mm. I'm pretty sure it is made in the same Taiwanese factory that produced my old Husky to its left, as the ratcheting parts appear identical. I wouldn't be surprised it the Tone is also made in the same place. All feel about the same. The Felo to the right has more teeth and much lower backdrag.

P47NGIt.jpg

The stubby Vessel:
They appear to have gone with a different OEM for their ratcheting mechanism. I have this one (photo from 2009) and the mechanism is rather crude, and the handle too short. Identical looking ratcheting mechanism was fitted onto different handles and sold under several budget brands over the years.

Both handles say "Product of Japan", but the product card is different. Mine says "Assembled in Japan" and yours "Made in Japan". :headscrat

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/ccassan/3239279941/in/photolist-2dVvj89-2dVviV5-2e16hyK-23Niz7L-SdExkw-TgnedW-MeDeFk-LhpTgr-MeDehK-MeDezt-MeDeBx-LhpTec-GVw9eY-Gqo5o4-Gqo5tV-GVw9gG-6BGDVt-5ZcCgL-5ZcEzJ-5ZcArw-5Wf9JM-5Wfa5a" title="Untitled"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/3100/3239279941_de25dce71b_c.jpg" width="800" height="532" alt="Untitled"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/ccassan/3239278817/in/photolist-2dVvj89-2dVviV5-2e16hyK-23Niz7L-SdExkw-TgnedW-MeDeFk-LhpTgr-MeDehK-MeDezt-MeDeBx-LhpTec-GVw9eY-Gqo5o4-Gqo5tV-GVw9gG-6BGDVt-5ZcCgL-5ZcEzJ-5ZcArw-5Wf9JM-5Wfa5a/" title="Untitled"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/3096/3239278817_0400a13720_c.jpg" width="800" height="532" alt="Untitled"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>



As for your bit ratchet. Yes, all of yours (and many, many more) originate from the same Taiwanese manufacturer in Taichung: Hi-Five / New Tools

On the topic of confusing COO....
the cheapest variant of their venerable 52-T mechanism comes in the laminated style construction which Anex started offering in 2013

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/ccassan/26858341440/in/photolist-21BYzty-ZbbuQq-ZbbuDy-Zbbut3-SdExkw-TgnedW-Raavju-PpE3r8-NMCY19-MeDehK-MeDeFk-LhpTgr-LhpTec-MeDeBx-MeDezt-p24ry3-pFq9Ce-oT1gGy-GVoJG1-HcfSjs-HcfSgG-GVo1Zo-GVo1UU-HhFmPj-GqeXRx-HhFmUE-GVo24S-oT4bWV-pPW4mN-2bKuEND-2d4EiGm-Hcgc7s-Fzjm1k-GVo2hC-HhFn1w-GVo2bq-GVo2pm-GqeXMz-Fx2BGC-Fx2BQo-FoDgCh-HhFmLd-5XYo4p-5XYnGZ-J61c3R-Fx2BR5-F7KY9Q-5Z8p5T-5Z8oaD-5ZcD7q" title="Anex Bit Ratchet"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/7547/26858341440_a6d6cd1483_c.jpg" width="800" height="532" alt="Anex Bit Ratchet"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>


The product card states (in Japanese) that the COO = Japan, but that's a lie. :lol:
I emailed them at the time, but never got a reply back.
I think "Assembled in Japan" is more truthful.
 

superautobacs

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Private Lugnutz,

Thanks for showcasing that "Deluxe Tool Kit".
I wonder if Japan was one of the first examples where an importing country (in this case the US) took advantage of their purchasing power (with the US$ being much stronger) to bring cheap tools and selling them at a huge profit. Eventually that role shifted to Taiwan, then to China. Sooner or later its going to shift to another developing country when the cycle begins again. This is probably my gross over-generalization though. :D




Sweet Victory,

What do you plan to modify, and what made you get that TONE one over the other brands?
 
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superautobacs

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Used my Victor Plus series diagonal cutters for some upholstery work and compared it against my well-used Kleins. I have to cut well over a dozen hogrings for any upholstery job.

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/ccassan/49597480152/in/dateposted-public/" title="Upholestry Work - Diagonal Cutters for Hog Rings"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49597480152_2afc82e10b_c.jpg" width="450" height="800" alt="Upholestry Work - Diagonal Cutters for Hog Rings"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/ccassan/49597229881/in/dateposted-public/" title="Upholestry Work"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49597229881_a583a87117_c.jpg" width="800" height="450" alt="Upholestry Work"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

Obviously, not an apples to apples comparison I'm trying to make here, but an interesting observation.

They both do cutting task at ease (within the cutting capacity), but the Kleins are easier on the hand despite the handles not being "comfort" grips. With the Victors, at the moment the blades cut through the hogring, they react with a "snap" that is heard and and felt as it tranmits to your hand. There's no discernible difference in the effort it takes to cut through the hogrings between the two pliers though.

With use and age, the joint on the Kleins have a bit of play and so when the handles are closed tightly, the blades become slightly offset/askew. I presume this might be attributable to the Kleins feeling less harsh on the hands. In other words, the "snap" action is dampened by the slightly offset cutting blades.

This makes for another example where company provided spec sheets don't necessarily provide the best picture as to how the tool performs and feels in the hand.
 
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Private Lugnutz

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Private Lugnutz,

Thanks for showcasing that "Deluxe Tool Kit".
I wonder if Japan was one of the first examples where an importing country (in this case the US) took advantage of their purchasing power (with the US$ being much stronger) to bring cheap tools and selling them at a huge profit. Eventually that role shifted to Taiwan, then to China. Sooner or later its going to shift to another developing country when the cycle begins again. This is probably my gross over-generalization though. :D

It is, but not at all inaccurate. Ironically, Japan's loss (in WWII) was their eventual gain. With the help of the Allies, and particularly the US, they re-tooled, and took advantage of that to dominate the economy lines as well as to make swift and sure-footed incursions into the highest quality levels of several industries (particularly electronics and motorcycles).

Glad you appreciated it.
 

superautobacs

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PL,

Their loss was their eventual gain, yes.
During the war and particularly after the war when US troops left Japan, they left behind a lot of tools. The Japanese who got their hands on the tools were really impressed with the level of quality and ingenuity in what they saw. Far ahead of what they were accustomed to using. From that time, I'd imagine some Japanese tool companies were aspiring to close that gap.
 

General Geoff

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Got those ratchet adapters in, they're super nice. Low back drag, 45 tooth, no skipping or random reversing like the defective Proto I returned.

http://shadowflareindustries.com/photo/i.php?/upload/2020/03/10/20200310154523-f5db806f-**.jpg
 

mr.lemons

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Time for some stupid questions. Are those beam torque wrenches? Don't see many on here, are they your preference over the clicky type?
 

General Geoff

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Time for some stupid questions. Are those beam torque wrenches? Don't see many on here, are they your preference over the clicky type?

Yes they are! I prefer old school beam wrenches because they have no moving parts to wear out or break, and recalibrating simply involves bending the indicator beam until the needle points to zero at rest. There's a bit more technique involved in using them because you need a straight-on view of the gauge while torquing. But I very much enjoy using them where I can, which with the ratchet adapters will be about 90% of the time. It's a shame there aren't many reputable companies that still make 'em.

I have some cheap HF clicker style wrenches and they're accurate enough for what I do, but they're relatively inconvenient to use because of having to dial them to whatever torque setting I need at the moment, and then dialing them back to zero after every use. With the beam wrenches, no need to set a target with every use.
 
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mr.lemons

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Used a Koken 1/4" square to hex bit adapter and found it to be not fit for purpose as it does not retain bits. Bits keep sticking in fasteners. Recently talked about Japanese power bits being different, are Japanese standard bits different too?

IMG-6033.jpg


Ball inside to retain bits.

IMG-6047.jpg


Bit does not go in deep enough for the ball to line up with an indent.

IMG-6059.jpg
 

mr.lemons

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Thanks for pointing out the Japanese reviews. Thought I was missing something. :headscrat

Koken next to Stahlwille. The Koken is shorter so I thought it may get into smaller gaps with less clearance but with bits inserted they are both the same length. Curious indeed.

Got to wonder if it was designed for some special low clearance bits.

IMG-20200312-191124.jpg
 

mr.lemons

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Yes they are! I prefer old school beam wrenches because they have no moving parts to wear out or break, and recalibrating simply involves bending the indicator beam until the needle points to zero at rest. There's a bit more technique involved in using them because you need a straight-on view of the gauge while torquing. But I very much enjoy using them where I can, which with the ratchet adapters will be about 90% of the time. It's a shame there aren't many reputable companies that still make 'em.

I have some cheap HF clicker style wrenches and they're accurate enough for what I do, but they're relatively inconvenient to use because of having to dial them to whatever torque setting I need at the moment, and then dialing them back to zero after every use. With the beam wrenches, no need to set a target with every use.

Thanks. I have a 1/2" beam torque wrench but struggled with it so gave up. I couldn't really hold it steady enough under torque so the beam would be bouncing around the dial. Will give it another try. It's a very cheap one which may not help.
 

General Geoff

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Thanks. I have a 1/2" beam torque wrench but struggled with it so gave up. I couldn't really hold it steady enough under torque so the beam would be bouncing around the dial. Will give it another try. It's a very cheap one which may not help.

Try holding the handle as close to your chest as possible, and use your body weight to lean into or hang off the wrench and provide most of the torque. that way you're not using your arm muscles to provide the torque, and the input should be much smoother.
 

tomalophicon

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Try holding the handle as close to your chest as possible, and use your body weight to lean into or hang off the wrench and provide most of the torque. that way you're not using your arm muscles to provide the torque, and the input should be much smoother.

Have a look at the Warren and Brown beam style from Australia. Nothing I've used has come close in terms of quality, useability and unlike more traditional beam style torque wrenches, they have an audible click when the desired tension is reached.
 

General Geoff

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Have a look at the Warren and Brown beam style from Australia. Nothing I've used has come close in terms of quality, useability and unlike more traditional beam style torque wrenches, they have an audible click when the desired tension is reached.

Now that is a totally cool design!
 

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Reed Prince

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measuredtwice

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Pulled up the catalog page from Ko-Ken. On the lower left, it shows the DIN/ISO standard.

attachment.php
 

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tomalophicon

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<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/bfj8vJJkc5g" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Yes, the only issue with them being they don't work in reverse.
But with the addition of a spinner that solves the problem.
 
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