Recommend a Deck Sealant Please

[In The Doghouse]

Yesterday I sprayed and pressure washed the 12 x 24 deck. This is the wooden deck with 6 inch wide deck boards and is about 8 years old. The surface is now clean and today was dry enough to accept some kind of sealant.

I know that Thompson's does a lot of advertising but after using it the last time it didn't take long for the deck to again turn gray. I also now understand that theirs is now water based instead of oil based.

What is my best option? Is there another brand that is oil based that will highlight the woodgrain and hinder the wood turning gray?

This is off the Lowe's page for Thompson's:

Clear waterproofer protects wood, brick and concrete from water damage
Allows wood to gray naturally
Exceeds all federal waterproofing standards for wood, concrete and brick

It says "Allows wood to gray naturally". I don't want the wood to gray.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Thompson-s...ofer-Actual-Net-Contents-640-fl-oz/1000183859

 

[James-W]

Do you just want to seal the deck, or do you want to stain it as well? The reason I am asking is because if you stain it then it won't turn gray. A good friend of mine used Cabot Australian Timber Oil on his deck and it looks really nice.

 

[ford33]

I prefer an oil based semi-transparent stain. It's getting tougher to find. An oil product penetrates the wood. The stain has UV inhibitors. I've used Olympic oil based products and they lasts for years. Expensive products but excellent value.

 

[K'ledgeBldr]

TWP100
It's the only thing I spec- have been using it for almost 20yrs now.

 

[MarvinBerry]

Thompsons ***** there are better products out there.

I've been using Olympic oil base clear on my deck for a few years. Goes on quick and is fairly easy to work with. I get the 5 gallon because my deck is massive, nearly 75x20

Any sealer you apply pretty much needs to be redone every year. They all wear down. Not quite warm enough yet to power wash but getting close for the yearly ritual. Another couple weeks.

Whatever ya get make sure it's warm enough to apply and cure, can't drop much below 50 at night. Also that the deck has fully dried from washing & rain and won't rain for at least 48 hours after applying.

 

[PassnThru]

Another vote for Oylmpic. I've used it for a lot of years on a lot of things around here and the more coats over the years the better.
As for decks - I don't know - don't have one. I've learned over the years that the rougher the wood - the better. Putting any preservative on a smooth surface has been, in my experience, cutting the protection in half. The rougher the wood - the longer it lasts.

 

[My Old Tools]

I used Armstrong Clark on my older deck. It worked well, applied easily, quite happy a year later.

 

[ard]

The 5 gallon pails at the big box stores are cheap.

It is hard to break that mindset.

Ive heard cabots is good. Sikkens as well.

 

[Bretny]

Anything the big box stores has is going to be junk. You need to look into what the log home industry is using. Use an oil based product. It will soak into the wood and a real penetrating stain will last way longer than the water based junk they sell in big box stores. If your applying a stain and it's not soaking in and just sitting on top of the wood I wouldn't waste my time using it.

Any clear or light colored stain is going to allow UV light to get to the wood and it will gray and fade out. If the deck gets full sun a lot of the day your fighting a losing battle either way.

 

[Bretny]

TWP100
It's the only thing I spec- have been using it for almost 20yrs now.

Total Wood Protection is good stuff. I think this is either twp-1500 or twp100 series in dark oak. I sprayed it on with a $10 garden sprayer and back brushed it in.

 

[Notgrownup]

I used a semitransparent Cabot. It’s more like a paint. At first I was disappointed but it grew on me and now I’m glad I applied it because it’s thick and also prevents splinters on my pool deck. Hindsight being what it is I might have picked a different color but it’s ok.
I applied it with a Wagner sprayer as it is too thick for the pump up sprayer. They claim 3 to 5 years.

 

[CJM8515]

whatever you do: dont use a product like deck over or similar. My parents did their whole deck with it and it basically causes the wood not to breathe and hold moisture..then rot

 

[Notgrownup]

I just went out to look at it and after a year, there are a few spots I can see I went a bit too thin. I will touch up after the damn pollen has subsided....Its so bad here right now.

 

[CombatNinja]

I swear to God deck 'sealants' are one of the most misunderstood products out there with so much snake oil that it is hard to tell fact from fiction. Sure as the budding flowers and chirping birds, these threads pop up every year around this time.

You cannot waterproof a wood deck. Period. All of these products that claim to do so are misrepresenting the facts. What you should be aiming to do is give the wood a product that will slow down the speed at which it absorbs and dries. It is the rapid wetting and drying that twists, warps and splinters wood. I recommend a nice oil-based toner in your favorite color.

It is also fundamentally untrue that there are no good products at your big box stores. Again, oil-based is what you are looking for. Anything that cleans up with soap and water is not going to work well. Cabots has some good timber oil products and Olympic has a good line that they sell at Lowes.

Another pro tip is to apply it with a brush as this is much more effective than a sprayer (which tends to make a huge mess) or a roller (which is a time saver but does not give anywhere close to the same consistent results). A brush allows you to do a board at a time and get in between the boards on the edges. Rollers won't do this.

Finally, any product that claims it lasts 5 years is dubious. That might be true on the vertical posts but not on any horizontal surface that is exposed to the sun and the rain and the wind and foot traffic. You are going to have to apply your product at a minimum of every three years and possibly yearly depending on climate and what appearance you are looking for. The nice thing about the oil-based toners is that they mellow out consistently in color and there is no stripping or crazy prep needed to recoat. Make sure the deck is clean and free of debris and brush on another coat.

It's like anything else in life: there is no shortcut. All of the guys who keep chasing some magic product that is going to 'waterproof' their deck and last 35 years should just forget it and reduce in a composite that needs no maintenance.

 

[MarlynOC]

Look into Ready Seal. Apply with roller or spray, oil based. check what pros use on this site
https://community.thegrimescene.com/
Many (not all) composites do need upkeep to fight deep imbeded mold and mildew.

 

[KansasArt]

Another vote for the cabot Australian timber oil. Both deck & fence have it, looks good years later. On the fence I used a pump up sprayer. Afterwards I just soaked the nozzle, o rings... in mineral spirits to clean. On the deck I used a butterfly mop. Allows you to use physical pressure to force it in the grain. Also easier to pick up the dribbles and maintain consistent coverage.

 

[Burl]

I used a semitransparent Cabot. It’s more like a paint. At first I was disappointed but it grew on me and now I’m glad I applied it because it’s thick and also prevents splinters on my pool deck. Hindsight being what it is I might have picked a different color but it’s ok.
I applied it with a Wagner sprayer as it is too thick for the pump up sprayer. They claim 3 to 5 years.

I replaced the floor on my deck this past summer, I did it 4-5 boards at a time, painted them with the same Cabot stuff, it looked like **** by Christmas. I have been emailing with Valspar (who makes Cabot) for the past couple weeks and they're like "yeah that can happen".

 

[pioneer1]

TWP100
It's the only thing I spec- have been using it for almost 20yrs now.

Total Wood Protection is good stuff. I think this is either twp-1500 or twp100 series in dark oak. I sprayed it on with a $10 garden sprayer and back brushed it in.

TWP here also

 

[PassnThru]

I replaced the floor on my deck this past summer, I did it 4-5 boards at a time, painted them with the same Cabot stuff, it looked like **** by Christmas. I have been emailing with Valspar (who makes Cabot) for the past couple weeks and they're like "yeah that can happen".

Was it pressure treated? How long did you wait before you stained them?

 

[Notgrownup]

Mine had been there for 3 years, seems to be holding up

 

[Brand X]

Sikkens Cetol SRD Translucent Stain

PPG owns them now, and who knows if it is a good as it once was? Excellent and looking good after 13 years on my last deal.

 

[ransil]

Here are some links I saved

https://www.hochstetlerloghomes.com/log-home-information-from-hochstetler-log-homes/


https://www.perfectwoodstains.com/p...tol-log-siding-wood-finish?category=undefined

https://www.perfectwoodstains.com/p...tol-log-siding-wood-finish?category=undefined

https://www.continentalprod.com/httpwww-continentalprod-comp1476/


Sent from my SM-G960U1 using Tapatalk

 

[In The Doghouse]

Thank you guys for all the discussion. There are lots of options.
I realize that I will have to reclean and reapply periodically but I wish to delay the fade to gray of the woodgrain as long as possible.

My local Lowe's sells the Cabot brand. Their higher cost selections are oil based and are supposed to hinder the graying of the wood. At a cost of ~$48/gallon. Based on their projected square footage coverage I might be able to treat the whole deck with two gallons. I do want to give it some stain as well as protection.

A local independent builders supply stocks TWP brand. Is anyone familiar with this product?

https://www.twpstain.com/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI-LWS-qOi6AIVd4FaBR2mFAqPEAAYASAAEgIOR_D_BwE

I'll gladly pay whatever it costs for the best quality and long life. I don't want to spend unnecessarily.

I'm attaching a photo of the deck of concern.

 

[MarlynOC]

You really should check this out Armstrong Clark https://www.armclark.com/

and this site for reviews https://community.thegrimescene.com/forum/5-wood-cleaning-restoration-decks-fences-etc/
specifically the poll of deck restorers who do professionally apply them

 

[JOE.G]

I am using a TWP product on my split rail fence, Cabot's rep actually recommended it over their product to me.

I am going to use Cabots Stain on my deck and railings, My deck is covered. I have used the same cabots stain on my exterior wood trim and it seems to be holding up well.

 

[PassnThru]

I can see your problem now - and it's a serious one. There's a cat on your deck

At the end of the day, use an oil based transparent stain and protectant. Will it last longer? Yes - but marginally. You will still have to clean (pressure wash) every few years and reapply. But that is easy compared to the alternatives which are solid stains that will always look splotchy after you recoat or paint which will never look good after the first coat fails.

 

[Slednut]

Sikkens Cetol SRD Translucent Stain

PPG owns them now, and who knows if it is a good as it once was? Excellent and looking good after 13 years on my last deal.

I've used this for as long as I can remember, this deck is 35 years old. I never use a pressure washer, I rent a floor sander that's like a giant palm sander. I sand it down about every 7 years or so. The biggest pain is screwing in the screws a little more so they don't damage the sand paper.

 

[glend123]

this thread makes me glad that my new house has a paver brick patio instead of a deck.
My old house had a deck and we stained it with a solid surface stain from Cabot, goes on like paint. I think we stained it 4-5 times in 25 years.

 

[Burl]

Was it pressure treated? How long did you wait before you stained them?

Sure it was pressure treated, I waited about a week before I painted them, basically to let them dry better.

 

[PassnThru]

Sure it was pressure treated, I waited about a week before I painted them, basically to let them dry better.

Around here the pressure treated is so wet that a week isn't nearly enough time for it to dry out. I put a new deck on my trailer last year in late June and I haven't stained it yet. It's ready at this point but won't get it until spring.

 

[My Old Tools]

if you need to strip the old finish, buy some lye. That's and water are all that is in Sherwin Williams deck stripper. To brighten, buy some oxalic acid. Again that is what is in commercial deck brightener. Why pay for water? Both available on Amazon. Used both on mine and they worked great. Pump sprayer to apply, pressure washer to remove.

 

[JOE.G]

My understanding PT Wood needs to dry for a least a few months before staining.

 

[Bretny]

Joe G is right. Pt is so wet it needs a few months of sun and dry time. 1 week is nothing.

 

[kaehlin]

I have had good luck with Cabot's. I think prep is the most important aspect to pay attention to, though. I've sealed, stained, re-sealed my deck over the last 15 years at this house, several times. The longest-lasting, best looking by far is the most recent application - looking good after 3 years. I cleaned with deck cleaner, sanded what I could, cleaned again, let it dry for a good week or so, and applied two coats of semi-transparent stain with a brush.
Next time it peels, I'm tearing it all out and replacing with composite.

 

[In The Doghouse]

I can see your problem now - and it's a serious one. There's a cat on your deck

At the end of the day, use an oil based transparent stain and protectant. Will it last longer? Yes - but marginally. You will still have to clean (pressure wash) every few years and reapply. But that is easy compared to the alternatives which are solid stains that will always look splotchy after you recoat or paint which will never look good after the first coat fails.

That cat just happened to be up there when I took the photo. She was like whatcha doing to my deck?

I have had good luck with Cabot's. I think prep is the most important aspect to pay attention to, though. I've sealed, stained, re-sealed my deck over the last 15 years at this house, several times. The longest-lasting, best looking by far is the most recent application - looking good after 3 years. I cleaned with deck cleaner, sanded what I could, cleaned again, let it dry for a good week or so, and applied two coats of semi-transparent stain with a brush.
Next time it peels, I'm tearing it all out and replacing with composite.

I am leaning toward using the Cabot's because it gets good reviews and is readily available. I would probably use the Honey Teak which is medium colored and will show the woodgrain.

Many thanks to everyone who has contributed to this discussion.

 

[rburke65]

I’m finished with the wood deck. Concrete and stone coming up....not inexpensive but no more staining....

 

[Bretny]

I’m finished with the wood deck. Concrete and stone coming up....not inexpensive but no more staining....

I'm with you. I always try to talk my friends into a patio over a deck...at least do trex I say..They always seam to cheap out and go with a PT deck then spend the next many years trying to keep it looking new.

I put a bluestone flag stone patio in my self about 5 yrs ago. No staining or even cleaning as the product is already thousands of years old. I have less than $1400 in material in this patio and it has a 12in compacted base even under the hot tub.

 

[Burl]

Around here the pressure treated is so wet that a week isn't nearly enough time for it to dry out. I put a new deck on my trailer last year in late June and I haven't stained it yet. It's ready at this point but won't get it until spring.

The guy I talked to at Valspar said that the wetness of the wood shouldn't make a difference in how the stain acts, the stain also seals the wood. If you don't stain it soon after you install it, doesn't the wood get soaked again when it rains for a (couple)days? How does it completely dry out(unless its under roof)?

 

[PassnThru]

The guy I talked to at Valspar said that the wetness of the wood shouldn't make a difference in how the stain acts, the stain also seals the wood. If you don't stain it soon after you install it, doesn't the wood get soaked again when it rains for a (couple)days? How does it completely dry out(unless its under roof)?

A few things - first, it's so wet from being pressure treated that the rain isn't going to soak in until the chemicals from the treating work their way out. Second, and this is pure speculation on my part so don't ask for references, it is called pressure treating because it is done in a sealed chamber under pressure. The chemicals go far deeper than any rain would for something like a deck board. Once it dries out from the treatment, a few rains aren't going to hurt anything.

 

[Notgrownup]

I have mostly concrete but I have a wood deck for the pool... not that big so not to bad to recoat