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Short Foundation Bolts Remedy

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vtjon

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Virginia
We just finished pouring my new slab. Some of my foundation bolts are short (maybe 7 out of 40). I knew this was likely because when we set the bolts in the basement foundation, we set for a 4" inch slab and poured it at 4.5". Many of them are tall enough or I can hollow out for it. If I hollow out the very short ones, I might have to take out 1" or more from the depth.

Anybody have an easy/affordable solution? I've looked into coupler nuts, flange nuts, etc. It would need to be galvanized.

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Kaizen

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home depot has couplings. but for the effort of hollowing out the 2 2x i think i'd just sawzall them off and drill in some new anchors after installed. probably same cost.
 
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Bondo

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Greenfield, Maine
Kaizen said:
home depot has couplings. but for the effort of hollowing out the 2 2x i think i'd just sawzall them off and drill in some new anchors after installed. probably same cost.
Click to expand...

Ayuh,..... Me too,.....

Cut 'em off, drill new holes, 'n use big azzed tap-cons,....
 
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vtjon

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I'm leaning towards new anchors now too. I was hung up on trying to extend the bolts. This is a permitted build and I don't think tapcons are allowed. I do think wedge anchors are though.

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CTyankee

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ard said:
You can use a coupler, then extension. If that is now 'too high', add a block of PT (from stud to stud) as a filler. Should meet code
Click to expand...

x2 There are stainless steel couplers. Them and use an extension piece
 
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harley jim

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I think this is a simple question for your inspector. Call and ask if anchors are code and he can tell you what he will accept. It isn't the first time that this has happened and I'm sure he has been through it before.

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matt_i

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So here is where you are much better off to install epoxy anchors in my opinion. Having to put a wedge anchor within 1-3/4" of the edge of the slab is a recipe to break out chunks in my estimation.

Drill to full depth, blow, brush, blow, brush, blow until no traces of concrete dust is expelled. Now cut the threaded rod to length, I like to use Sika AnchorFix2, which is sold at Home Depot (at least here). I like to use a gloved hand to coat the external threads as well as gunning it into the hole and twisting the rod around and around to ensure as much coating as possible.

Allow to cure 24 hrs @ 68F, in this weather I would allow 2-3 days before trying to torque anything down.

Now you don't have to worry any more about it. If you used a wedge anchor that close to the edge I'd wait a full month to make sure the concrete had enough strength before loading it...a fail of the concrete on one or more bolts and your next choice would be to use epoxy anchors, so just jump to that step and leave out all of the sadness in the middle.
 
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acer66

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harley jim said:
I think this is a simple question for your inspector. Call and ask if anchors are code and he can tell you what he will accept. It isn't the first time that this has happened and I'm sure he has been through it before.

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Click to expand...

This is what I would do too.
When I gutted and rebuild sometimes from new foundations up my house I build a good relationship with the inspector who was known to be a stickler by being honest when I did not know and once he realized that I was into doing it right he was very easy to work with and helpful.
 
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K'ledgeBldr

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Johns Creek, GA
harley jim said:
I think this is a simple question for your inspector. Call and ask if anchors are code and he can tell you what he will accept. It isn't the first time that this has happened and I'm sure he has been through it before.
Click to expand...

This ^^^ is the right answer for this question.
There could be a plethora of correct answers- but the only one that counts is the one that the inspector will approve.
 
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andyvh1959

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Green Bay WI
I planned my new garage slab to include two rows of 8" block to fit a slight side slope. Before the slab was poured I pushed three foot long 1/2" threaded rods into the dirt. When the slab was poured it surrounded the rods, and the rods extended enough through the blocks after they were set. I positioned all the rods to miss the framing studs, except for one, not quite. Luckily it was near a doubled stud for the door opening so we just notched the bottom of the 2x6.
 
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harley jim

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Kaizen said:
How would an inspector be able to tell if it was set in the concrete vs an anchor? The few I had to sink in after framing to meet code looked the same above the wood.


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It was an answer to the question that would help the op do the job correctly. The chance of the inspector calling you out on it are slim but all of them I have delt with have a sharp eye and if he notices a difference in anything he sees he has the right to make you take it apart and prove yourself. Ask me how I know this. Sometimes it's just too easy to make a phone call. Not trying to upset you just wanted to elaborate on personal experiences. Thanks, Jim

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vtjon

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The inspector around here has been very good and I'm not trying to "beat" him at anything. We don't have local code mods, just IRC 2015. This is a fairly big project and I'm trying to do a good job. The existing anchor bolts are in nearly 12"+ of concrete.

There are just a handful of short ones. With everything going on with the virus, I'm trying to line everything up to lay out my sill plates next week. In some searching online, I found some affordable hot dipped coupling nuts. I'm going to have a double bottom plate so being a little long isn't the end of the world. With the advice about the wedge anchors blowing out the concrete, this coupling is likely best. I can always drill more anchors in later if necessary.

Thanks for all the advice.

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matt_i

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Thats a good solution Lynden, imo should include a large dia but close fitting washer for transferring forces to the wood.
 
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vtjon

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harley jim said:
Vtjon
Post some build pics,,I got a feeling it's going to get a little slow around town

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I've been taking a bunch. I need to organize them and start a thread. Maybe this weekend!

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Dagny

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My dad built hundreds of houses in 50s and 60s no bolts in any of them. though houses were heavier then.
 
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Kaizen

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harley jim said:
It was an answer to the question that would help the op do the job correctly. The chance of the inspector calling you out on it are slim but all of them I have delt with have a sharp eye and if he notices a difference in anything he sees he has the right to make you take it apart and prove yourself. Ask me how I know this. Sometimes it's just too easy to make a phone call. Not trying to upset you just wanted to elaborate on personal experiences. Thanks, Jim

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Click to expand...


Come in Jim you know no one gets upset around here. Lol. Wasn’t directing my comment at anyone.
You are right a call is usually a good thing. I should have been more clear. I bet an inspector would want a new bolt either anchor or epoxy before he would want a coupling which has way more points of failure as well as needing to wallow out the sill for it to fit. This weakens the wood and makes pull out easier in a wind event.

If Anyone is reading this before your foundation is done. Investigate foundation straps. Bolts are old school. Straps are widely accepted and you don’t get issues like these.


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californiaHank

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Dagny said:
My dad built hundreds of houses in 50s and 60s no bolts in any of them. though houses were heavier then.
Click to expand...

It's probably not an issue where you are, but in Northern Cal, after the 1989 earthquake, you could drive through some neighborhoods and pretty much tell from the street which houses had bolted foundations and other niceties and which ones didn't. ;^)
 
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Kaizen

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californiaHank said:
It's probably not an issue where you are, but in Northern Cal, after the 1989 earthquake, you could drive through some neighborhoods and pretty much tell from the street which houses had bolted foundations and other niceties and which ones didn't. ;^)
Click to expand...


Pretty sure it’s code everywhere now


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vtjon

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Virginia
harley jim said:
Vtjon
Post some build pics,,I got a feeling it's going to get a little slow around town

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Click to expand...

I finally started the thread!

I'm planning to use rod couplings so I'll post an update in the build thread when I get that far.
 
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