Air Hose Repair

[Spareparts]

A couple of weeks ago while at my hydraulic parts supplier I asked about air hose reair crimpers. He showed me a product from Imperial Eastman. A replacement roller for my Imperial Eastman tubing cutter. It replaces the cutter, and with the ferrules and barbed fitting does a really neat and professional looking end for my air hoses. The best part the roller is bout $6.00. They make several different diemeters of ferrules and he said the best size to use is about 5 thousants larger than the hose. I took several samples of the hose I have and fitted the ferrules to them, I left with a sack of them and started repairing my hoses. Gor rid of the unsafe and unsightly hose clamps.

 

[Dale B]

I always preferred crimped ferrules too . Hose clamps on air hose always work loose with all the dropping and pulling the hose goes through

 

[Vinko]

I always preferred crimped ferrules too . Hose clamps on air hose always work loose with all the dropping and pulling the hose goes through

The clampless ones I got,which you thread on, from McMaster (Foster or Dixon maybe?) have been excellent and put through some abuse and no problems.

They were about $20 each in stainless. Much cheaper in regular steel.

 

[35mastr]

Does anyone know where to get the tool to crimp the brass?

 

[rodm1]

Does anyone know where to get the tool to crimp the brass?

There like $150.00 MSC sells them.

The clampless ones I got,which you thread on, from McMaster (Foster or Dixon maybe?) have been excellent and put through some abuse and no problems.

Those look good and work well to they are my choice if you don't have a crimp tool. MSC sells them and the supplier whose selling them on this board but with a higher price.

 

[35mastr]

Gotta link or a pick of this tool. We have one here at the shop,But its a POS.

 

[nutjob]

Do you have any links to this replacement part for the tube cutter?
This sounds like a great way to deal with hose repair.

I stopped by a local hydraulic hose place and had them crimp on 2 ends for some hose that I cut to length for a project. $10 a piece for the ends and $10 labor.

Kevin

 

[trovato]

This sounds like a great idea, and I'm trying to figure out exactly what you are using. I found an Imperial item, S76637, that is called a constrictor wheel. It is also sold together with a cutting wheel as item TC-1020. It is really intended to constrict tubing to create a tight fit for soldering. I can see how it might work for hose ferrules, though. Is this what you are using? Are the ferrules you are using any particular type? It would be nice to put together enough detail so others can duplicate your success.

 

[Mickey O]

Pictures? More info? Links?

 

[lilredex]

Found these "Vise Grip" type things at Princess Auto a few years back. Never saw them again. Think they cost around $12. Those holes are 1/2" and 3/8", the hose shown is 3/4" OD. A couple of examples shown.

 

[raflomo]

Found these "Vise Grip" type things at Princess Auto a few years back. Never saw them again. Think they cost around $12. Those holes are 1/2" and 3/8", the hose shown is 3/4" OD. A couple of examples shown.

I use these to fix torch hoses at work...you can also find them at welding suppliy stores like AIRGAS or Nex-AIR.

 

[Spareparts]

It is a replacement wheel for the TC1000 tubing cutter, but instead of a sharp cutting edge it has rolled edge. Just put the ferrule on the hose and the barbed fitting inside the hose, use the tool just like a tubing cutter. Puts a nice groove around the ferrule and move it down for a seond groove, looks factory. Cheap enough to have in your tool box or in my case for field repair. I have done about 10 repairs and I also run 175psi so that is a good test. I will all my hydraulic saleman and get a part#. I will take some pictures and have my son post them for me.

 

[Spareparts]

OK this is what I found out today from my Hydraulic Supplier, Imperial Eastman Tube Constrictor and Cutter TC-1020 just the constrictor wheel part# 76637 @ $6.97. Google Imperial Eastman Tubing Cutter and take a look, from personal experience this is a real cost and time saver, especially time. For the guys in the KC area I got mine from Clarkson Power Flo, talk to Fred.

 

[rsa]

Old thread, I know, but "searches happen"...

Found these "Vise Grip" type things at Princess Auto a few years back. Never saw them again. Think they cost around $12. Those holes are 1/2" and 3/8", the hose shown is 3/4" OD. A couple of examples shown.

This is the only place I found them (or what appears to be them): Tool Depot. Fifty bucks.

Vise Grip Crimping Tool for crimping ferrules on single or twin hoses 3/16" and 1/4" provides for convenient fitting and repair hoses.

 

[Greatbear]

The Vise Grip crimpers are meant for welding hose. The ferrules are soft brass, and the operating pressure low. Ferrules for 100psi air hose are far more substantial.

I prefer the screw-together hose ends myself. They are reusable, don't leak, and are just as compact as a ferrule. I got mine from Grainger.

 

[Provincial]

I use barb fittings that are rated to hold full pressure without clamping. Then I put the heat shrink radiator hose clamps (from Gates) over the hose end to protect the outer hose cover. It is as strong as the hose burst strength, and has no metal protruding to scratch or dent things.

On my factory ends with the brass ferrule, I use heavy wall heat shrink tubing from an electrical supply house to cover the metal and reinforce the hose at the fitting. This tubing is at least twice as thick as the stuff you find at the auto supply store or Radio Shack.

 

[fordcragar]

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=82710&highlight=repair

 

[Vinko]

. Gor rid of the unsafe and unsightly hose clamps.

The other option might be to go with a one or two ear clamp from Oetiker. They've also got another with an inside band (BMWpower, a user hear, bought a bunch of them). I've used this method (as well as the clampless type discussed above) and that method worked well.

The only other thing I might've done differently is to use heat shrink tubing or whatever it is on the end of the hose if it's hanging. Because enough stress on the hose, enough yanking and pulling, and general mis-use and you'll get wear on it.

PS. Photos from a previous post of the clampless method:

Parker air hose, made in USA, 3/8 ID and 11/16 OD:

1/4" NPT end w/ferrule - stainless steel.

CEJN 310 series couplers, high-flow, regular and safety. Made in Sweden.

CEJN 430 v. 310 ******, both industrial interchange: