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School me on Table Saw Fences

Maui

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Sep 16, 2012
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Upstate NY
I finally upgraded and purchased a used Delta Unisaw this past year. It was manufactured in 1956, and still has the original 1 hp motor in it. It was set up to run on 220V. Since I don’t have 220V available in the garage I pulled the motor out of the saw and reconfigured the wiring so that it could run on 110V input power instead. And the motor runs smoothly and quietly. For those of you who are considering doing this I have attached a photo of the wiring diagram from my motor. It says that the wires are color coded, but when I pulled the cover to access them I found that they were all black, and numbered 1 through 4. So I had to figure out what was what in order to wire it up correctly. This is what I found:

Wire #1 = green
Wire #2 = red
Wire #3 = yellow
Wire #4 = Black

The fence rails of this saw were badly bent, the fence itself was manhandled and broken, and both need to be replaced. I know very little about fences for the Unisaw, so I did some reading. The most recent versions of the Biesemeyer fences are apparently made in China and have greatly disappointed customers. The older versions that were manufactured in the United States however seem to gather almost universal praise. And others seem to prefer the Delta Unifence instead. What are your opinions on what fence to purchase for this saw? And what about that fence makes you recommend it over others? Should I search craigslist for a good made in the USA used fence system, or purchase new? I’d love to hear your opinions. Thanks for any insight you can provide!

Maui
 

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Voi

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Western South Dakota
I had a USA made Biesemeyer on my last table saw. I really liked being able to use both sides of the fence and the easily built accessories that slid over the top of the fence.

I have a lot of time on a friend's Unifence. I know a lot of people like it for being able to shorten it quickly but I just had a clamp on jig for my Biesemeyer that did the same thing, although I did have to add the thickness of the jig to my fence position.

However, if I were to get another saw and it already had a Unifence I'd probably just keep it. Some of the T-track accessory fences look very interesting.

I assume your saw is right tilt so you might like the ability to do non-trapped bevel cuts on the left side of the blade with a Biesemeyer. Read up on the right vs left tilt pros/cons to see if this might factor into your decision.
 

RTM

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The Beisemayer (sp?) is the pinnacle, typically priced accordingly. I've used one once, and it's nice, but I would not have paid retail back then to put it on My Craftman contractor saw.

A deal on one, even if it meant buying a **** saw to get it might be worth it
 

Firebrick43

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West central Indiana
I very much prefer the unifence with a peachtrees uni-t-fence extrusion. Older biesemeyers were ok but new ones are **** for quality.

I would consider a 80/20 fence like the VerySuperCool fence if you can stand watching an old dope smoker in the videos
 

DaveInHouston

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Baytown, Texas
I’ve had Biesemeyers, Vegas, Unifences and they are all great, particularly if you’re doing production work where quick, accurate setups are desirable. But on my latest Unisaw (I love it by the way) I spent a lot of time tuning and adjusting the stock fence (like in your photo) and am happy with it. You can spend a lot of money on an after market fence (they are cool) and not gain that much functionality.
 

AZ Pete

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Central Arizona
I have used Biesmeyers and have a Unifence that I have used for about 30 years. Both are excellent. Biesmeyer had their shop about 3 miles from my home when I bought a Delta cabinet saw with a Unifence.. I don't think you can go wrong with either... They are accurate and repeatable, but I have gotten used to the Unifence, which can be used on either side of the blade, by the way, as the fence can be switched from side to side of its frame.
 

LMS

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I have had a Vega with the microadjust feature on my General 350 for about 25 years. I like it a lot
 

Rick_Br

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It hasn't been mentioned so I'll throw out the Incra TS-LS fence system. You bwon't find anything more accurate and repeatable thatn the Incra. I have one on a unisaw and a router table.

Rick
 

matt_i

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The Biesemeyer design is pretty easy to build if you can do some welding.

Most of it is angle iron and box tubes. There's a little fabrication for the cam but its just a piece of round stock drilled 1/16" off center.

As I recall its "tuned" for parallel to the blade by adjustments in the pads that contact the main long box tube.

The hardest part would be the melamine faced sides to the fence itself. I think a piece of H/LDPE tape over the bare steel would be a bad choice if the adhesive stays on long-term.

I've seen a .pdf somewhere on the 'net where a person has plans to build it.
 

ncboat

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Aug 20, 2015
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Wilmington North Carolina
That looks like a jet lock fence and should be able to find parts for it. My contractor saw has one and has been great once I dialed it in. As others have said many options depending on what you want to spend. Askwoodman videos show how to make your own if so inclined. He also is Real Cool Tools if you want to buy one. I just acquired a unisaw like yours and am putting a Delta fence off a new 36-725 that was a take off. I found it on Craigslist. The aftermarket Delta t2 fence should be an easy upgrade.
 

jar944

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I had a original biesemeyer built in the 80s and currently have a powermatic biesemeyer from 1998 (still US made). Both are accurate and repeatable.
 

seber

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I've had saw with both the Unifence and the Biesemeyer. I hated the Biesemeyer. Just takes forever to adjust. It is heavy and has to be moved manually then tightened and checked then unlocked adjusted and locked again. The Unifence is always aligned so no readjusting after locking. It is also lighter, easier to move and far more versatile for attachments.
 

Showkey

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The Biesemeyer design is pretty easy to build if you can do some welding.

Most of it is angle iron and box tubes. There's a little fabrication for the cam but its just a piece of round stock drilled 1/16" off center.

As I recall its "tuned" for parallel to the blade by adjustments in the pads that contact the main long box tube.

The hardest part would be the melamine faced sides to the fence itself. I think a piece of H/LDPE tape over the bare steel would be a bad choice if the adhesive stays on long-term.

I've seen a .pdf somewhere on the 'net where a person has plans to build it.

I had a original biesemeyer built in the 80s and currently have a powermatic biesemeyer from 1998 (still US made). Both are accurate and repeatable.

The fence is most critical part of any table saw setup. The cheapest contractor or the highest end cabinet saw is dependent on an accurate and easy to use fence.

There have been several prior posts on DIY versions of the biesemeyer and others.

This one below was build 40 years ago when the biesemeyer came on the market and was used as the ”template”.

89700AB4-C7D8-42BA-A342-E3E9444AA716.jpg
 
Last edited:

senlow

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Wheat Ridge, Colorado
I really like the Biesemeyer fence. I believe it's main advantages are:
  • Strength and rigidity.
  • Locks parallel to the blade every time.
  • Works smoothly.
  • Simple, yet effective design.

Weaknesses:
  • It lacks a micro-adjustment feature.
  • It is heavy.

How can the weaknesses be addressed:
  • I've seen aftermarket micro-adjust accessories. Buy or build one. It' never been an issue for me.
  • Build it out of aluminum. Of course, strength and rigidity will be compromised.

I'm not sure why seber has so much trouble with the Bies. Mine moves as smooth as silk. One does need to wax the friction surfaces occasionally. To keep the fence parallel to the blade during adjustment, I release the lock and then allow the lever to rest in the low position so that there is no gap between the locking lever and the rail.

I didn't want to spend the money for a Biesemeyer, so I built a clone about 20 years ago. It serves me well. It was not difficult to build. A small amount of welding is required. Showkey did an excellent job of simplifying the clamping mechanism. That is the most complicated part of the Biesemeyer.
 
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SteveCh

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Dec 21, 2012
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It hasn't been mentioned so I'll throw out the Incra TS-LS fence system. You bwon't find anything more accurate and repeatable thatn the Incra. I have one on a unisaw and a router table.

Rick

i bought an Incra last year for my Rockwell [Delta]. Wonderful. They come with their own rails, so your bent ones can be tossed.
 
OP
M

Maui

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Thanks for the insight everyone. I’ll see what I can find based on your recommendations. For the Biesemeyer fence, I would need to find an older used one. The newer ones just aren’t made to the same level of quality that the US built ones were.

Maui
 

240sxguy

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Madison, wi
I have a Delta T-30 on my old unisaw, it works great and no issues whatsoever. I would like a longer fence rail (not that I have room to store it anyway!) for bigger cuts. If I do it again I will do a 50" or so fence most likely.
 

Marctrees

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TX/LA border - Toledo Bend
Thanks for the insight everyone. I’ll see what I can find based on your recommendations. For the Biesemeyer fence, I would need to find an older used one. The newer ones just aren’t made to the same level of quality that the US built ones were.

Maui

Great idea, but finding a #1 - sold separate from a saw, #2 - within easy driving distance to avoid packing and shipping that your seller will NOT want to screw with, #3 - in good shape that you want, #4 - The rail length you want, etc etc.

Not gonna happen... But, it's ok cause thankfully a few stepped in to make decent ones after the original Bies.

Marc
 

Marctrees

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Again, locally buying the rails and installing them is pretty easy and very well explained at the VSCT website.

I always thought it would have to be a square tube that had some machining done to true it, not so... off the rack new- from a NEW steel supplier, non bounced around at a used yard... needs NO machine work cause any slight deviations are adjusted out when bolting to saw table.

Marc
 

lafester

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It happens all the time, you must not try very hard.

Great idea, but finding a #1 - sold separate from a saw, #2 - within easy driving distance to avoid packing and shipping that your seller will NOT want to screw with, #3 - in good shape that you want, #4 - The rail length you want, etc etc.

Not gonna happen... But, it's ok cause thankfully a few stepped in to make decent ones after the original Bies.

Marc
 

RTM

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SF Bay Area
One fence alone on my local CL for $245

One Powermatic 65 w B fence, rolling trolley and extended table for $700. Don’t think I’d scrap that saw for the fence.
 

lafester

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There you go... and even during a pandemic.
Parting out is not the same as scrapping, and only do it if it makes sense.
 
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